no problem, I says what I means. You should consider a rear chassis plate. All the ones out there are expensive and kind of...weird.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...am-Axle-Pins-4

if it's the roll pins in the wheel you're breaking.

I'm partial to the 1251mg due to it's size and speed. Fit is great and the speed is wonderful.

A rear plate kinda like this?
Here's a rough one I made at the track when a new T plate wasn't available.

Been rockin one of these on mine since I broke my first T plate, never again.
Have one on my Losi XXX BK2 also.

Just like the front chassis brace, no more worries.

I can do these too for bout $10 shipped, just didn't think about gettin em out there although I hooked up a few guys with em.

Can paypal the $10 or even better deal, how bout $20 for one of each/combo T plate brace and front chassis brace?

[email protected]

right side

k this worries me now as I have it on the left side mainly because I've seen some ppl running with the bolt on the left side. I think I remember this being discussed earlier in the thread but cant remember what was said. Does it matter what side the bolt is on?

Update: I finally found the thread on this and a lot of ppl are running the bolt on either side. Apparently really doesn't matter and nobody's had any problems with the bolt backing out.
Here's the link for anyone interested: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-team-kit.html

Yes it does, it goes on left. It will get loosened if in right. This is my experience with the mip ball diff.

I've been running Stealth trannies since they first came out as an option part! For years the nut was on the left and the bolt went in from the right. AE feels it doesn't matter, The .1 AE manuals show no preference left or right. By design it doesn't matter, it's not going to loosen!

Another question for you guys, how tight/loose do yous have your ball diff adjusted? I'm a ball diff noob, but when I screw the bolt in until I feel a little bit of extra resistance I back it out 1/8 of a turn just like the manual says. My diff is very smooth, but to me feels a little on the tight side. I compare it to my other SC10 with 5K diff fluid and my ball diff feels a little tighter. Consequently I've backed it out a little more, probably closer to a half turn I'm guessing. Just curious how you all have it set knowing too that it'll vary a little depending on the track being run at.

It's up to you really, I don't loosen mine much more than the recommended 1/8th turn. 1/2 turn seems like a lot to me but if it doesn't "bark" it's ok.

When you say it feels tight is it in the truck spinning the diff with the tires on or out of the truck and turning the outdrive?

+1

I'm comparing the ball diff action with my gear diff. Comparison being with the wheels on and turning the one wheel by hand while the truck's up on a stand. When I have it set to 1/8 of a turn out, it feels noticeably tighter than my gear diff when I turn a wheel by hand.

Well all I can say is that I run all mine an 1/8 to 1/4 turn out. If it feels smooth and not gritty then it's not too tight. IMO if your gear diff. is that much freer than the ball diff. 5K fluid is too thin.

Yeah my diff is very smooth. I mainly run on a low traction loose track and was finding 5k was much better especially for cornering than the 10k I was running. I'm just ignorant if I should even compare my gear diff to my ball diff though when I turn a wheel by hand.

This weekend I'll be running on some indoor clay, so maybe the recommended setting of 1/8 of a turn should work good for me.

Try it and see, it's easy to adjust in the truck...unlike changing fluid.
Just rememeber that just like with dogs, barking is BAD.