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Old 02-13-2011 | 04:21 AM
  #5611  
???E-Racer's Avatar
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FN Cuda how much you charge for your chassis braces.
I might have to get one. It just depends...I'll be running on carpet
so I dont know if the brace will be required or not. People at
my local track are running your braces however.
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Old 02-13-2011 | 11:04 AM
  #5612  
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I'm giving in and installing the ball diff into my SC10 and am wondering what side to have the adjustment screw on?
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Old 02-13-2011 | 11:18 AM
  #5613  
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Originally Posted by ???E-Racer
FN Cuda how much you charge for your chassis braces.
I might have to get one. It just depends...I'll be running on carpet
so I dont know if the brace will be required or not. People at
my local track are running your braces however.
he has them on ebay, $12-$16 w/ free shipping. That's how I got mine, and I love it. Simple, clean, strong. Perfect.
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Old 02-13-2011 | 12:07 PM
  #5614  
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i build my shocks with rebound.

the thing is, rebound is measureable and controllable. you can build them to have exactly the same amount of rebound.

if you build with no rebound, you have no idea, or no way to know where youre at. No rebound because you did it perfect, or because theres not enough fluid in there?

the rebound you should get without the spring is not enough to interfere with the spring rate of the spring thats on there.

its only my opinion, but you get a lot more accurate results between all 4 shocks when you build with rebound.
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Old 02-13-2011 | 12:16 PM
  #5615  
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Originally Posted by Hemi Killer
i build my shocks with rebound.

the thing is, rebound is measureable and controllable. you can build them to have exactly the same amount of rebound.

if you build with no rebound, you have no idea, or no way to know where youre at. No rebound because you did it perfect, or because theres not enough fluid in there?

the rebound you should get without the spring is not enough to interfere with the spring rate of the spring thats on there.

its only my opinion, but you get a lot more accurate results between all 4 shocks when you build with rebound.
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Old 02-13-2011 | 12:36 PM
  #5616  
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K i'm not a total rookie at building ball diffs as I've rebuilt the diff in my onroad car a few times and it's buttery smooth.

I've just installed the ball diff into my SC10 and right away when I turn a wheel by hand it feels kinda gritty. I did everything the instructions said including putting a little ball diff grease on every ball. Is this normal that there should be a little bit of grittiness in AE ball diffs or should they be literally smooth as butter when turning a wheel by hand??
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Old 02-13-2011 | 02:10 PM
  #5617  
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I think I figured it out. I was going by AE's guide in the manual of backing out the screw 1/8". Even after breaking the diff in it seems too tight when I turn a wheel. I backed out the adjusting screw a little more to the point where it seems quite smooth and I made sure my slipper is slipping before the diff is.
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Old 02-13-2011 | 06:36 PM
  #5618  
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So I tore down the rear end and pulled out the ball diff as I still wasn't happy as it seemed a little too gritty. It turns out I didn't follow the instructions close enough as I was tightening the bolt too much. I didn't pay attention to where the manual states to pay attention to the feeling of the bolt when the spring is completely compressed. I was pretty much tightening it as far as it would go which was past the point of full compression of the spring.

So now I tightened the bolt until I can "feel" the spring being fully compressed then backed it out 1/8 of a turn. Diff feels sooo much smoother now

The lesson of this story is to pay very close attention to the manual especially when you're a relative nooby to ball diffs
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Old 02-13-2011 | 07:59 PM
  #5619  
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"feel" is very important when talking about ball diffs. glad you got it figured out.
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Old 02-13-2011 | 08:52 PM
  #5620  
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Just finished painting and cutting the body for my FT.
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No to get to the track for some more practice...
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Old 02-14-2011 | 12:01 AM
  #5621  
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^^^ that's a lot of purple! !!
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Old 02-14-2011 | 12:22 AM
  #5622  
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Originally Posted by ???E-Racer
FN Cuda how much you charge for your chassis braces.
I might have to get one. It just depends...I'll be running on carpet
so I dont know if the brace will be required or not. People at
my local track are running your braces however.
I'm glad you're seein em at your track, I can remember sending several to Kentucky addresses as well as other states and even countries.
Glad they are still popular, ebay has been rockin these for me.
Hope to get one to you.
If you or anyone else wants one you can pm me directly or just paypal me $15 shipped and I'll get em right out to you, still same or next day after paypal hits I get em out.
Paypal address is:

[email protected]

Thanks for the interest and the plug!

Originally Posted by lowroad
he has them on ebay, $12-$16 w/ free shipping. That's how I got mine, and I love it. Simple, clean, strong. Perfect.
Thanks for the supoort and the positive feedback, it means everything to me!
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Old 02-14-2011 | 05:54 AM
  #5623  
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need some help. my son has snapped 3 drive pins in the past 2 weeks (the pin that goes thru the axle at the wheel)
I installed both new ae pins after the 1st one broke.
my ? is, do I have a shimm problem or is there stonger pins I need to get?

he's running a 10.5 on carpet
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Old 02-14-2011 | 06:02 AM
  #5624  
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Kill my stock servo while bashing around with a slash and couple of 1/10 buggies. Need a stronger servo. Any recommendation?
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Old 02-14-2011 | 06:07 AM
  #5625  
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Originally Posted by nightc
Kill my stock servo while bashing around with a slash and couple of 1/10 buggies. Need a stronger servo. Any recommendation?
these work extremely well in an sc10, and dirt cheap.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60gexidised2.html

I guess if you feel the need to spend some bucks, the savox 1258 is the way to go.
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