I also tried cutting the battery brace and running the battery all the way to the rear at my secret test track.

THAT WAS ABSOLUTELY HORRIBLE!!!111!11!!1!1!!!!!!!!

After I reset preload for a level chassis, the truck would not hook up well and when it did break loose it was a giant swinging pendulum of death. All that weight in the rear makes it swing around twice as much once its loose.

Plus with all the weight at the rear, the truck stayed flat and could not rock back and transfer the weight to the rear. Tons of on power steering.

So to hook up the rear, try moving the battery forward and tune your suspension/droop to allow the truck to transfer the weight to the rear.

A similar thing happens in onroad 1/12th scale. Battery forward= rear grip, battery back = on power steering.

With the battery frward, you can run softer rear springs, a washer or two less in the front shocks, and less rear preload. The truck should squat and roll back lifting the front a little. Too much and you'll lose on power steering,but we have that in spades anyway.

If you don't squat and roll, your not going to hookup on my tracks.

I am about to run Mod sct and was wondering in your guys' non biased opnion, do you think the SC10 is better than the Blitz???

while the blitz is a good car. I still like my sc10 the best out of all the SC cars i have driven. It is more than likely that i run all of their other 10th scale cars. I am intrested to see what the kyosho SC brings to the table.

I Ran black springs in the rear with the gold up front with that shock oil setup.
Works good on a freshly watered track

b4/t4 trans case.

Both are good trucks, parts are easier to find for the SC10, sense it is based off the other AE trucks. I have been fighting setup on my SC10, but new to electric. The HPI truck is heavier and seems to have more traction on a loose track, dont like the HPI wheels, they are like the slash with the big dip. One of my buddies has an HPI and is not a great driver, but we got it dialed and he ran right behind me in mod all night. I think tires where eating my lunch that night, with the motor that went bad, he had the right tires on and I was no were close to having the right tires and motor failure. Wish someone made pinks for the sc trucks.
I would get the SC10 kit and put your own electics in it. Parts are readily findable and you dont junk new electronics that you didnt need.

Running a Tekin RS v200 with a 13.5 motor. Looking for gearing and ESC setup advice for use in SC10!

Thanks

hey im new to sc, looking to buy one shortly here and i was wondering if this is still the truck to have or is it being beat out by the new 4x4 stuff? thanks guys

i would say the weakest point on the sc10 is the front A arms. they break a lot inside around the pins. but thats a b4/t4 thing too. both my sc10 and the guy in the pit next to me's t4 broke a right front A arm.

me and matt keep breaking right A arms, has anyone broken a left? haha

as for gearing the sc10, i would suggest starting around 25/84 or maybe 26/84, and temp it from there for your track. tonight i ran a somewhat open track and was geared at 23/84 and only got to 100 degrees after a 7 minute run. I would have geared up but the old set screw in the pinion gear stripped the head out of it, crap

for the 4x4 thinker, the sc10 is a great truck for the 2 wheel drive short course class. the 4x4 will be racing in its own class when they start arriving in stores. there were two 4x4 slashes at our small races tonight, they ran with another class of similar size

In Stock RTR class the Blitz might have an edge because it is easier to drive and comes with a +1 rear toe option stock in the box. The RTR rules won't allow mods like that to the Sc10. If you give the blitz suspension alot of tlc to get it right for your track, its the best ride in Stock rtr.

But in mod the table turns. The Sc10 thrives in mod. It's lightweight and spritely feeling keeps it competitive in stock. But in mod we can give the Sc10 the proper springs, bowties, +1 hubs, inline axles (dusty low bite tracks), and a sway bar.

In modded form the Sc10 blows away the Blitz. The Blitz deosn't have the plush soft suspension, that still has good pack, the Sc10 has. And the Sc10 has more rotation and feels lighter. Actually needs weight added on nearly every track I've been to.

Not to mention the Mip ball diff and the Sc10s ability to handle some big motors.

I purchased a RC10T4 Factory team to race in the Masters Class in our area. My only other truck is a slash that I have modified to be as competitive as possible. The RC10T4 was fantastic out of the box. I tuned the suspension to be like was stated up thread. No issues with traction or steering.

I prefer the SCT class so I am now planning to switch my T4 to a SC10. This was my plan from the start. I expect that the SC10 will be way better than the Slash due to tune-ability and weight control. It will cost me about $120 for parts and tires/wheels to convert but much cheaper than a new SC10 Kit when you consider the MIP ball diff and ti parts. I plan to drill the rear shock tower to accept the bumper/body mount and will use the new RPM front bumper/brace so I don't need a new front shock tower. Should be light!!!

The SC10 is dominant in both Stock and Open SCT in our area. We allow the 1 deg hubs on Stock class which does help rear traction.

I believe you will need to drill the front shock tower to mount the front body mount

so what is everyone running for a stock motor in the the stock class? 27t turns correct per ROAR rules or a 17.5 BL..I'am just trying to get an idea what other people run @ their tracks..

i have used factory team battery strap and moved battery allthe way back..with red front springs and silver rears..40 wt ft and 35 rear...truck is really good...also limited downtrave a lot..but way easier to drive, and tons of grip all around

arent the red springs stiffer than the silvers? are you moving the battery back and making the front end stiffer?