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Old 05-30-2005, 07:27 AM   #1396
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Default Buggy Engine choice ???

Hi all, thanks for the great response.....

I'm racing on a medium to large size track with 1 long straight. The rest in field is made up of different types of combinations of jumps...

Would like to know in general what type of engine would you guys recommend in this type of track... particular turbo or non-turbo ???

Heard that turbo engines are good and advantageous for big tracks but then it's more sensitive than non-turbo ones which can run more hassle free...

Appreciate anyone sharing and also any buggy engines you would recommend ( would like to go for a good one !) me to get based on your great experience using them ? ...

Thanks...

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Old 05-30-2005, 07:40 AM   #1397
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OS .21 RG $109 at tower hobbies. Should be plenty of motor for ya.
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Old 05-30-2005, 09:31 AM   #1398
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Bad Mika, here is a pic of a car at the Worlds, with dual fuel filters...

I had really good results with the WS7II, but even a regular WS7 would be a good choice. I presently run a Maxy Fuels modified Mega engine, but it is a little serious for club racing........Maybe that is perfect for 1/8th? LOL....Jim
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Old 05-30-2005, 05:30 PM   #1399
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Default Kania 3 Rear Dogbone Problem

I finally got to the track today to try out my new Kania 3. Our track has a new layout this year and the first few laps I was taking it pretty easy. Once I finally started to drive a bit harder I had the right rear dogbone pop out. I fixed it and went back out and about 3 laps later it came out again. I again fixed it, and it did it a third time. I took a few things apart and everything seems to be right, except I can see that the right rear dogbone does not sit in the diff as far as the left one does. Later I stopped at our hobby shop and one of the guys told me that this is a known problem with Kania 3's. He thought the fix was to use a front dogbone which is longer then the rear. Can anyone tell me if they have had this problem, and if so, what did you do to fix it. I raced my original Kania for 2 years and never had a problem. Our season starts this Wednesday night and I may be running my old one until I can get this fixed.

Thanks
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Old 05-30-2005, 05:43 PM   #1400
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Bad Mika I am running a RB concepts S7 II it is the new version of the original WS7 since purchasing it I pretty much decided RB engines are the way to go for me. I want to buy another engine and I'm trying to figure out whether I wanna S5 another S7 2 or a C5 but I am leaning toward the C5 since it is the big dog of the RB line-up.

DDBadger yes the guy at the hobby store was right a bunch of K3 kits included rear universals that were too short I remember at the time of their release they would swap the wrong universal for the correct one if you sent it in to them but I wouldnt expect them to still honor that anymore.
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Old 05-30-2005, 06:36 PM   #1401
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For most sanctioned racing events, 125cc is the maximum permissible amount of fuel - this includes the lines and fuel filters etc as far as I'm aware.

In other words, unless you're racing at national level or above, it's not really an issue. However, I remember a well known racer getting caught out at the Euros - just 1cc over and he was disqualified! No messin'.

Engines vary, but I agree most well tuned engines can run at idle upside down for far more than 10 seconds. Blipping the throttle while your car is on its roof can certainly draw a marshall's attention, but most simply won't bother risking friction burns if the wheels are still spinning when they get to the car. Furthermore, revving the engine too much will use up the reservoir of fuel more rapidly than just leaving the engine idle - actually increasing the chance of an engine cut.

Either way, if your car spends time on it's roof, a big fuel filter will help no matter what engine you use. Most tanks have a ceramic/stone filter incorporated into the tank anyway, so ask yourself why we all fit fancy anodised fuel filters.....

I'm a big fan of the RB WS7 engine too - easy to tune, good spread of useable power, decent top end. Brilliant.
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Old 05-31-2005, 10:40 AM   #1402
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Default RB power...!!!

Hi Buggyers...

Thanks for all the response...!!!

I have thought of trying out a RB Buggy Engine... Seems generally, most races RB's seems to be always there at the top...

I have visited the RB official website however am not able to see any "horsepower" details of their various engines... especially their C5, WS7, WS7II...etc...

Anyone can enlighten me on which is the highest ranking in order of horsepower ? And any website i can view more greater technical details of their engine characteristics... especially the horsepower and rpm....

Many thanks....!!!

Happy Buggying !!!

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Old 05-31-2005, 11:28 AM   #1403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Mika
Hi Buggyers...

Thanks for all the response...!!!

I have thought of trying out a RB Buggy Engine... Seems generally, most races RB's seems to be always there at the top...

I have visited the RB official website however am not able to see any "horsepower" details of their various engines... especially their C5, WS7, WS7II...etc...

Anyone can enlighten me on which is the highest ranking in order of horsepower ? And any website i can view more greater technical details of their engine characteristics... especially the horsepower and rpm....

Many thanks....!!!




Happy Buggying !!!

i've had all three, and each has a different application. the c5 has the best top end and creates a lot of power, but is lacking on the bottom end. ws7 is a great bottom end motor, but lacking a little in the top end. ws72 is a good blend of both.

each will also act differently accoding to the pipe you match up to it.

if you're bashing, get the c-5.

if you're racing in the US, get the ws7 or ws72, and match the pipe according to your bottom end needs. US tracks have alot of "supercross" style jumps where bottom end is necessary.

if you're in Europe (from what i've heard and read), the tracks are more flowing where higher reving rpm motors excel.

about the c5 lacking on the bottom, i'm comparing it to the ws7 and the ws72. with the right clutch setup, you can still get it to rocket out of the hole.


regardless of which engine you get, you'll be very happy with the quality and the performance. like i said before, pipe will play a crucial role on squeezing the max out of your engine.
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Old 05-31-2005, 09:54 PM   #1404
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whats the new xray buggy like, are there any faults or parts that you need to replace on them when or befor using the car,

first time to 1/8th scale and the state titles it my first race, i dont want ot go unprepared?

thanks Josh
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Old 06-04-2005, 08:43 AM   #1405
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Default Torsen Diffs

Hi Buggyers...

Wondering if any of you out there are using the front and center torsen diffs on your buggy (type ?) ?

Do they have an advantage on some particular track layout ?

They're quite a pricey investment so appreciate anyone sharing some infos...

Thanks !

Happy Buggying...

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Old 06-05-2005, 06:43 PM   #1406
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Default MBX 5 shock set-up

Is it unheard of to put 60wt in the front and 40wt in the rear and have the buggy handle triplesand whop selection on the track?
Also on the diff oil curently run a 5/7/3 set-up but it feel like the buggy is wt'd down just doesn't flow, wonder if a 3/3/1 or 5/7/1 set-up would make the car free,not wild but drivable?
Added note the motor is a OS VZB Vspec with tones of raw power.
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Old 06-05-2005, 06:54 PM   #1407
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Your right buy a set of front universal's for the rear and that should solve the problem, for your k3 it did on mine
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Old 06-05-2005, 07:09 PM   #1408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Painy
whats the new xray buggy like, are there any faults or parts that you need to replace on them when or befor using the car,

first time to 1/8th scale and the state titles it my first race, i dont want ot go unprepared?

thanks Josh

Josh, I 've been running the chassis for about 4 months now and really haven't seen any major issue. The real test for me was this past weekend at the ProSeries Race , 30 ft jumps and 140 ft straight (very bumpy) , the only problem I noticed is after the main my center spur gear had one tooth missing. It was caused from chassis flex so I recommend Xray's new motor mount to eliminate flex in the center of the chassis. Other than that, I would order some A arms for back up, extra ecentric bushings, o rings and gaskets for rebuilding diffs, and as always the part you don't have in the box will be the one you brake. Any questions email me at

[email protected]

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Old 06-07-2005, 09:13 AM   #1409
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Default Hot Bodies Lightning 2

Does anyone run the HB Lightning 2 buggy? Im looking for a good starting setup. I ran it the other night, in RR form. Qualified second behind a mugen. All I changed were springs and shock oil. Still has grease in the diffs. I havent race a lot of 1/8 scale so I dont know where to start with setup.
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Old 06-07-2005, 11:54 PM   #1410
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Default hot body buggie

i have heard that they are not to bad as far as beating a mbx4 i have 4 of them and 3 ofna my ofna 9.5 pro is close but i also have a mbx r2 ofna it drive really good for a 190.00 buggie 80%assembly not motor or electronic

mikel buggie guy
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