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Old 04-12-2005, 04:51 PM   #1366
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[
mine had the same problem last week caused by a seized bearing. the bearing groove melted.

QUOTE]Originally posted by Thai3g_Eclipse
Got a question for you folks. When I disassemble my Kyosho, I found that one of my center bulkhead set/case is melted. This side was the closest to the engine. Is this a sign that my engine is running too hot or is this just a common problem for our cars?

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Old 04-12-2005, 07:05 PM   #1367
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Asar, I haven't had that happen whenI ran a Kyosho, or any other car for that matter. But, i'd be willing to bet it is something to do with the clutch generating too much heat, maybe slipping? Did you recently have a clutch bell bearing going out?............Jim
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Old 05-11-2005, 09:59 PM   #1368
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Had my first race with the K3 last weekend. What a blast! Way easier to drive than my GT, and two classes is fun.

Question 1:
I found a blown bladder on one of the shocks. I read about the mod about gluing foam to the top of the shock cap. Do they really blow bladders that often? Is it possible to overfill the shocks even with the bleed hole if you screw the cap down to fast?

Question 2:
I'm running an ofna pipe that has a pretty long stinger on it. It got bent in pretty good. I was able to pop it back out to where it's supposed to be. Should I just use JB weld and build up a big angled block behind it? And also does the stinger really need to be that long?

Question 3:
Does the diff fluid ever need changed? Or just check it to make sure it's topped off and change it when I need to change weights?
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Old 05-16-2005, 07:19 PM   #1369
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jbrow1, The stinger is usually a legal length, so don't shorten it unless your local track allows, or if you don't plan on going to any big events.

When you assemble the shocks it may take a while to bleed out the oil, so try tightening the cap slowly and also letting it rest a few seconds in a position that is just about tight, but not quite, before completely tightening them down. Adding foam in the caps "tunes" the shocks rebound, but it's really hard to tell for most racers.

Changing diff fluid is just like a full size car, the more you do it the more time and money you spend, and the longer your parts will lsast......It isn't required, but you can never change it too often, since you remove small particles of metal each time you remove then old oil. These particles add to the wear, even if the oil itself is in good shape..........Jim
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Old 05-16-2005, 08:21 PM   #1370
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Thanks! I don't worry much about rebound in shocks, and I'll just throw some jb weld or epoxy to brace the stinger. Diffs, well I'll change the fluid sometime but not yet.
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Old 05-16-2005, 11:38 PM   #1371
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i never got problem anymore about bladder because i using no bladder. i find there is almost no different if using or nor using bladder. what i got is it really easy to maintainence the shock without using bladder. just pour the shock oil and tightened the top screw..

the exhaust stinger.. what can it do with its length.. any different performance if it stinger short / long??
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Old 05-16-2005, 11:53 PM   #1372
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I wondered about no bladders myself. Just bleed em like my GT, but easier b/c of the bleed hole.

I imagine differing the length of the stinger would affect the backpressure of the pipe. Not sure how much or if it would matter or not. Probably wouldn't be noticeable to normal guys like myself. Might make it sound different also.
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Old 05-17-2005, 05:39 AM   #1373
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A local K-car driver in my area discovered that the caps on the K3 shocks are the culprit. He found some caps from the older K2 car and his shock bladder problem went away.
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:31 PM   #1374
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Running a shock with no bladder won't cause any problems, for most club racers. But, it does make a difference in shock performance. Since the bladders job is to contract and expand with the shocks displacement change during stroke, running no bladder requires a shock set up with air in the oil chamber. If no air is left in the shock it will not compress fully(which would cause things like bent shock shafts and shock towers, etc.). The bladder makes it so the air is seperate from the oil in a chamber above the bladder, so it doesn't mix while the shock cycles and cause a change in tune........................Hope that explanation helps, Jim
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Old 05-17-2005, 06:58 PM   #1375
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I was going to ask what effect the air in the oil would have. But I suppose it makes sense that if the piston is moving, hits a pocket of air, then no resistance as it gets back to the oil. So basically the dampening just wouldn't be as consistent as if it was pure oil. Ok, thanks Jim. I may have to try the hpi bladders in my GT now afterall. Hell, I might drill a hole in the shock cap (gt) a.k.a. 1/8 scale style also.
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Old 05-19-2005, 11:08 PM   #1376
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i have over 12 buggies mbx4 mbx5 ofna 9.5 pro ofna mbxr2 duratrax axis ofna jamm and unless you are in the upper 5% of the drive in the world you will never know the diference engine matters a lot and electronic as well battery pack the track you are driving on well enought of that if you dont have much money ofna mbxr2 for 200.00 as the kit or rtr for 325.00 is a good buggie as well
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Old 05-21-2005, 05:51 PM   #1377
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Ok fellas, looking for some help. My K3 has a major push midcorner and exiting the corner. Turns in real nice, but then just pushes way more than it should. What changes would help? The problem is pretty severe. Also do you run drag brake in 1/8? I know it does wonders for my gt.

Anybody got a link to a good 1/8 buggy setup websites?
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Old 05-21-2005, 06:33 PM   #1378
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Anyone here run or run against a Power Racing Swift or a Sportwerks Mayhem? I am considering getting one of these in the near future and wanted to know how they perform.
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Old 05-22-2005, 11:35 PM   #1379
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Well I decided to go with less toe-in in the rear to try and lose some of the push. I was going to play with shock positions. I think it was bad enough though it would've taken more than that. Had 3 degree block on, and I went with the 2 1/2 I believe it is. The middle one of the 3 different blocks anyhow. We'll see how it does this weekend.

I'd still like to know what are the typical oil weights in the diffs for the K3 that are working for people. And also any 1/8 setup guides on the net anywhere?
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Old 05-23-2005, 02:46 PM   #1380
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To add a question to my post above.. Where can I download blank setup sheets for an 1/8 buggy?
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