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Old 03-31-2005, 08:15 PM   #1336
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Anything less than 4k or 5k in the middle is just too thin. The car will unload under acceleration to the front or the rear wheels and wont be as fast for sure.
TCD- 5000-2000 works fine or even 3000

Go to the Starting grid www.sgrid.com and enter the kyosho forum. Find Mark Pavidis's setup and this will get you on the right track. From there it's up to your personal preferences to alter the car.

BTW 2-3-2 is something that simply wont work. Unless you are just bashing around and you dont care about laptimes.
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Old 04-01-2005, 01:55 AM   #1337
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after all, it seem that the best diff oil is always below 10,000.. so what for they doing diff oil till 50,000 or 100,000wt
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Old 04-01-2005, 02:21 AM   #1338
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MP777 brake probs.

I changed the discs on my 777 to Craddocks discs and it still doesn't brake as hard as I would like.

I changed becuase the OE disc/pads were well worn and I've read here that the craddocks are a good alternative. I've taken the pads off the calipers and to me it just seems too smooth.

The calipers have no pad so its just bare smooth metal and these Craddock discs are just smooth fibre.

The RX pack is fully charged and I'm using a Hitec 645 servo which should have enough torque to stop the car. I noticed the TX batteries are quite low but I don't know if that makes any difference.

I'm going to order standard 777 parts today and see what happens. Don't really want to blow a wedge of cash on a KO servo until I'm sure the weak point is the servo.

I did use this servo in my old TT EB4 and that would lock wheels really easily.

Any ideas.
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Old 04-01-2005, 05:19 AM   #1339
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The 645 isn't the greastest servo by any means, but it should provide an ample amount of torque to give you decent brakes.

The most likely cause of the problem is linkage related. Make sure you use a decent horn on the servo. In addition you need to make sure that you have the correct amount of servo throw set up on your radio. Too little - and you'll not get enough braking force. Too much - and you'll stall the servo.

If you're using the calipers without pads, try sanding the calipers so that they're not shiny - it should give them some more bite.

You may recall what I mentioned about ensuring that the levers on the cams are perpendicular when the calipers begin to squeeze the disks. This helps ensure that maximum force is applied through the calipers - it's a leverage thing.

Using some small pieces of silicon fuel tubing, cut slightly thicker than the thickness of the disks, these can be placed on the screws, between the calipers, to ensure the calipers return quickly when the brakes are released.
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Old 04-01-2005, 11:29 AM   #1340
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The 645 Has great Tourqe But the speed is .20 and that really really really sucks. you should look into getting a diffrent servo im going to be getting 2 359's 200oz .10 transit time.
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Old 04-01-2005, 06:02 PM   #1341
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I use a 737 airtronics servo for my throttle/brake servo and a 358 for steering. The 7373 works very well, usualy not nywhere near max throw and great brakes. I'm thinking the specs were about 75 oz of torque and .15 speed at 6v.....................This is about lower middle of the road for a servo, so I think the 645 should be fine.

I'd look closely at the linkages like horatio posted, but if all else fails a monster overkill servo like Sgt posted will force the brakes to grab harder, even if it means bending the radio tray to do it, LOL........., Jim
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Old 04-02-2005, 01:17 PM   #1342
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Hey guys, elementary question here...

I have a Kanai II that I just bought a Crowdpleaser 777 body for....seems as thought the 777 is narrower towards the front of the side trays, and the body doesnt clear.

Anyone know if the side trays from a 777 will fit on a Kanai II?

Thanks for any suggestions..
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Old 04-02-2005, 02:51 PM   #1343
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You'll have to drill new mounting positions...the 777 and k2 mounting positions aren't even close.
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Old 04-02-2005, 03:56 PM   #1344
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Hello. I am not new to racing but I am new to nitro. I am a 2wd mod buggy racer at heart. I think I am sold on getting an 1/8 buggy for this summer season on our new track, but I am lost when it comes to car choice. I DO NOT want to break the bank, I looked at a sportwerks today for around 500 that came with an engine and pipe but no electronics. What would you guys suggest for RTR/ARR/KITS that are in the $500 range that can hang up alright? I know that this was discussed a little a few pages back but I am interested in seeing what people think considering my situation. Thanks a lot, and if possible provide links to the cars as I have no idea what any of them are! Thanks again!
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Old 04-02-2005, 05:55 PM   #1345
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Can anyone say the words "POPULAR SUBJECT"??? I just looked at how many pages this thread has!! Oh my!!!
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Old 04-04-2005, 01:52 AM   #1346
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Quote:
Originally posted by PipeMagnet
Hello. I am not new to racing but I am new to nitro. I am a 2wd mod buggy racer at heart. I think I am sold on getting an 1/8 buggy for this summer season on our new track, but I am lost when it comes to car choice. I DO NOT want to break the bank, I looked at a sportwerks today for around 500 that came with an engine and pipe but no electronics. What would you guys suggest for RTR/ARR/KITS that are in the $500 range that can hang up alright? I know that this was discussed a little a few pages back but I am interested in seeing what people think considering my situation. Thanks a lot, and if possible provide links to the cars as I have no idea what any of them are! Thanks again!
HYPER 7 PBS would be a good buy for RTR bUGGY
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Old 04-04-2005, 11:01 AM   #1347
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Default Sportwerks Mayhem!

I'm running the Sportwerks Mayhem Pro ARR and I raced it this weekend. It was very nice. It jumped very predictably and was easy to adjust in the air. Needs a bit more on power steering on my track but that's about it. I didn't change a dang thing from the out of the box setup and I would have gotten 2nd or 3rd out of a group of 8 buggies if I wouldn't have flamed out during a minor roll at the end of the strait (my fault not the buggies). I'm running a Picco OFNA w/ boost chamber and the sportwerks header and pipe.

This is my first experience with 1/8th buggies and my first experience with Nitro. Last weekend was my first race or even practice for that matter. I would have had a shot at 2nd in my first 1/8 nitro race ever if I wouldn't have rolled the buggy with 2 minutes to go.

I am very happy with the Sportwerks Mayhem Pro. Even with a box stock setup on it. Just make sure you check all the metal on metal screws when you get it. I lost 2 screws this weekend about about 30-40 minutes of run time.
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Old 04-04-2005, 05:31 PM   #1348
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Here in BC the parts are very hard to get for anything that sportwerks makes.........the dealers seem to have chosen not to carry their stuff.........dunno why though!
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:21 PM   #1349
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I think the Mayhem and the Jammin X1 RTR are the best buggies, especially after seeing them run and reading the latest reviews.

Mike, some of the dealers may not qualify for Horizons strict retailer standards. They have a minimum start up purchase cap that is a bit high and store front is required, etc......Most smaller retailers buy from Distributors that don't protect retailers as well....Kind of ironic?.....................Jim
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:37 PM   #1350
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were are you guys finding all there fourms on sgrid. I cant find them anywere
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