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Old 03-26-2005, 05:02 AM   #1321
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitrous36
I noticed that most 1/8 buggies are electronicly started. Is that better or more preferred for buggies? I was looking for one with a pull starter and there doesnt seem to be many. Are most shaft started? 2 out of 3 of the nitro cars I have are electric start. I dont want another one I want another pull start engine because yeah electric starters are convient but no one likes having to carry around a bulky starter, worried about keeping it charged and worrying about it dieing on you while starting your engine. Pull starters are painstaking but electric starters can be just as pain staking to work with too. Two of the buggies I have narrowed my option down to are shaft started. One of them offers it as an option. What do you prefer and which starter is better for buggies?
By far the best way to start a 1:8th buggy is with a starter box. You simply position the car on the starter box, push it down, the starter ring spins, makes contact with the flywheel and you're away. One full charge on a dual 7.2v pack powered starter box will easily last you for a full days racing.

Pull starts are often supplied with cheaper RTR run engines where the manufacturer presumes the buyer is unlikely to own a starter box. With monster trucks, very often starter box starting isn't possible due to the position of the engine in the chassis, so starting has to be done with either a pull start or electric start via a one way bearing arrangement from the rear of the engine onto the crank. This method is a compromise, with certain designs relying on a small starting pin, which can fail. Oneways don't last forever either, regardless of the preferred starting option.

With performance engines, especially from new, the piston/liner fit is so tight pullstarting is often near impossible. All new engines are tight, but some are REALLY tight and often stick TDC. A box starter spins the engine faster, with more positve contact and with less things to go wrong.

I use a Mugen starter box. It has dual RS540 size motors and 2x7.2v batteries. It has plenty of power. If you intend to run 1:8th buggies for while, invest in a decent starter box - you won't miss the pullstart.
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Old 03-26-2005, 10:27 AM   #1322
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Initially I wanted a Sportwerks Mayhem. But when I found out it was shaft started I looked around and decided on a Ofna 9.5 RTR. What do you think of the ofna buggy. Are they good?
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:59 PM   #1323
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I think Hyper 7's are better IMO.
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Old 03-26-2005, 04:37 PM   #1324
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Anybody have the stock setup sheet for the 777 that comes in the sp1 kit. I have miss placed mine and cannot seem to find it on the net.

Thank you
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Old 03-27-2005, 10:17 PM   #1325
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Bob- You get to run your Mayhem Pro yet on the track...last time you reported you were breaking it in..... Would love to hear what you think of it on the track if you have ran it.

Thanks

Jeff
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Old 03-27-2005, 10:25 PM   #1326
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Default Re: MP777

Quote:
Originally posted by wildman4x4
Anybody have the stock setup sheet for the 777 that comes in the sp1 kit. I have miss placed mine and cannot seem to find it on the net.

Thank you
There you go....

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download...g/index-e.html

The stock setup is the one that says Yuichi Kanai at SBRT Circuit

Cheers
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Old 03-28-2005, 08:50 AM   #1327
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
Bob- You get to run your Mayhem Pro yet on the track...last time you reported you were breaking it in..... Would love to hear what you think of it on the track if you have ran it.

Thanks

Jeff
No track time yet. I'll try to report back here in a few weeks after I get a race or two on it.
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Old 03-30-2005, 08:52 PM   #1328
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Should I get the ofna 9.5 RTR or 9.5 MBX? I know the MBX is better but theres not that much of a difference between them except the mbx has a few more features and different gearing and other slight differences. The 9.5 RTR has a bigger spur gear. The 9.5 mbx has pivot ball suspension. And I like the black chassis with blue anodized parts of the 9.5 RTR better than the look of the yellow chassis with orange anodized parts of the 9.5 mbx. What should I get?

9.5 RTR

9.5 MBX RTR

Last edited by nitrous36; 03-30-2005 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 03-31-2005, 02:46 AM   #1329
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I got a question thats probably been asked too many times, but I was wondering about diff oils. If I go with a 3k,5k, & 7k, does it mean that the higher the diff oil, the thicker it is? or is it the other way around, the higher the diff oil, the thinner it is?
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:09 AM   #1330
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The higher the number, the thicker it is. Well if you say you will go with xx-yy-zz thickness you mean that you will use xx in front yy in the middle and zz in the rear.
So the numbers you wrote down will not work of course. If you only have these diff oils you should put

3000 or 5000 up front 7000 in the middle and you should get 1000 for the rear.
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Old 03-31-2005, 01:32 PM   #1331
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So you're saying to put the thickest in the middle, slightly thick up front, and the rear should be the thinnest? How about going with 5000, 7000, & 2000? Will that work also?
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Old 03-31-2005, 06:45 PM   #1332
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5-7-2 or 5-7-3 both are o.k. better acceleration and alot steering

anybody try 5-5-3 or 3-3-1 anybody using option diff like torsen, lsd, spider... what's their result
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:34 PM   #1333
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I'm using 2-3-2 in my inferno m.p.7.5.Because thats all we had.I really can't tell yall the results because I just now started in 1/8th scale buggy.
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:46 PM   #1334
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What buggies are you running?
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:55 PM   #1335
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I have two kyosho's one is a k2 but I just got it so it needs a radio and engine.The other one is just a kyosho mp7.5. (kit) with a v-spec hooked up to a jammin' jp-1 pipe.
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