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Old 03-16-2005, 09:55 AM   #1276
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Quote:
Originally posted by warpig
OvalEvader.. I was reading all the stuff about the O.S. engines and bearings.. What I got out of the posts were that people were paranoid and were replacing them regardless if there was a problem or not. I actually didn't see many legit posts saying there bearings went out for no reason. Dirt, rust, blown plugs, and improper tuning were what I remember. I've been reading the O.S. thread for a couple years now.

Not saying my memory is to be trusted.. lol.. I could be wrong
To be fair, when the bearing failed in my engine, it wasn't a young engine. However, it was well cared for and I used good quality fuel. Considering OS's reputation for quality, it was rather dissapointing to loose an engine due to bearing failure when the engine was only a year old. It hasn't happened in other engines I've owned.
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Old 03-16-2005, 09:59 AM   #1277
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Originally posted by ScoobyDriver
Horatio - I recognise that truck!!!

'allo mate.
And I recognise that bad-ass Scooby!!

How are you doing!! Welcome to RC Tech land!!

Be sure to visit in the official savage thread.

Regards

Horatio
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Old 03-16-2005, 11:24 AM   #1278
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Warpig- how does the Ofna 8 Port that is in the Ofna RTR line hang with the more expensive race engines on the local/ regional scene? We are building a track in Hutch and people are getting 1/8 like crazy....lol I just do not have the $$$ to get into a race buggy and top line engine...but still want to be able to not get run over on the straights...lol

Bob- thanks for the lead I am checking with Mike on his deal.

Jeff
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Old 03-16-2005, 03:07 PM   #1279
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All the engines i've had over the years, the bearings have given me the least amount of trouble. Usually the big end stretches or the piston/sleeve wears before the bearings go bad in my experience. This goes for .12 and .21 engines, from any manufacturer.

All I can say is, ceramic bearings are quite a bit more expensive then quailty bearings, yet an air filter that comes off during a race or poor tuning won't help your engine regardless of what you spent on ceramics.

I'd much rather spend the money on other things, this doesn't make ceramics bad, just in a category with titanium screws, shock towers and steering knuckles.....................imo, Jim
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Old 03-16-2005, 04:11 PM   #1280
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Hey Jeff!

That engine should keep up with the best of them on the in field. As I understand it Hutch is going to have a smaller track. So, the top end will be irrelevant. As long as you have the torque to jump all the jumps and get out of corners fast you will be okay. Feel free to call me or e-mail for any tech questions. I'm always happy to help people new to the 1/8 scene. I'll PM you!

Ben
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Old 03-16-2005, 06:26 PM   #1281
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
how does the Ofna 8 Port that is in the Ofna RTR line hang with the more expensive race engines on the local/ regional scene?
i got problem with this engine, the first 2/3 tank it ran perfect with no problem but after that it will start to loose power on the bottom but not on the top end. no power on the bottom but still perfect on top end. the engine also make different sound and the tuning (idling) become higher. temp between 150-160. why aaa...???
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Old 03-16-2005, 08:48 PM   #1282
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Does anyone know where to get a RB S7 piston and sleeve cheap. I will be receiving a ws7 and a s7 in a trade and the one engine needs a new piston and sleeve. Could I use the new ws7 2 piston and sleeve in the s7?

Also what are the main differences in these 2 engines. And what springs should I use for this engine on a small track. I'll be using my 777 with aluminum shoes. Thanks.
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:08 AM   #1283
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
Warpig- how does the Ofna 8 Port that is in the Ofna RTR line hang with the more expensive race engines on the local/ regional scene? We are building a track in Hutch and people are getting 1/8 like crazy....lol I just do not have the $$$ to get into a race buggy and top line engine...but still want to be able to not get run over on the straights...lol

Bob- thanks for the lead I am checking with Mike on his deal.

Jeff
No problem. I'll try to get down to Hutch a few times this summer. Maybe you guys could do the same and head up our way. The 1/8 buggy group up here is getting rather large. I think we have 8-10 regulars that have are will have a buggy within the next few weeks. It seems to be the class of choice (from the comment I have heard anyways) right now.

I started breaking in the .21 HS/SPortwerks motor last night. I should be able to start setting a the needles a bit tonight and get close to a final tune this weekend. I've run it around in circles and such in the Hobby Town parking lot. The brakes on the sportwerks seem VERY stout and the motor starts pretty easy (although tight on the first ever start).

I've been VERY happy with the sportwerks Mayhem pro so far. I can't compare it yet but I would think it will hold it's own against most of the stuff at a local/club level. You could always get the Sportwerks Pro without an engine for around $350 and put an O.S. V-Spec motor in it. That motor is currently the hot choice out there. Alex S. picked one up for his Thunder Tiger. I assume you already have the reciever and Servos you would need and can bump a start off somebody elses starter box right?
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:17 AM   #1284
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Quote:
Originally posted by arghh
i got problem with this engine, the first 2/3 tank it ran perfect with no problem but after that it will start to loose power on the bottom but not on the top end. no power on the bottom but still perfect on top end. the engine also make different sound and the tuning (idling) become higher. temp between 150-160. why aaa...???
I'm pretty new to nitor but that seems like a pretty low operating temp. Shouldn't it be up above 200... maybe 220 or so? It could be that you need to lean out the top end a tad more to get a better operating temp. Unless you lose top end power as a result. Leaning out the high needle may also correct you bottom end power/idle problem.

It could also be that your loading up on the bottom end. Remember I'm VERY new to nitro but that is just my guess. If you have the power you want on the top end then the high needle is probably correct (which affects top and bottom end fuel supply). Now you may just need to lean out the bottom end to restrict the bottom end fuel supply. Worth a try anyways.

Just my guess...anyone else care to comment.
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:21 AM   #1285
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Bob, we will be up some time this summer. You guys have a first class raceway and great race directors! (Alex and Tim) I bought a TTR S3 EB4 and so far it rocks! Looking forward to meeting up with all the other electric onroad converts.(nitro newbies)

Doug
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:36 AM   #1286
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Yeah... I'm a nitro newbie for sure. Had 3 nitro "experts" helping me start the mayhem for the first time last night. It was fun.

You'll love the track Alex has designed... 200'x100' so it will be FAST. We start work on it this Saturday. We have the driver stand in place and some dirt is ready for jump building.

We should be able to race on it by early April if not before.

And to stay on topic... here is a decent forum for 1/8th buggy discussion.

http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/bac...howforgotten=0

Jeff... not to be biased or anything but going off what I have read the Sportwerks Mayhem Pro seems to be THE buggy of choice to entry level competition. There may be some better ones out there but they will probably run you a couple hunder more to get into.
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:45 AM   #1287
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I was lucky to have that many plus a couple working to get my motor started. Took a heat gun and 140deg to get it to turn over and fire the first couple of tanks. I think that 1/8 is exploding in the midwest!!!
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:47 AM   #1288
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I think part of that is the lower cost of getting into it and the already huge market of monster trucks getting people willing to run nitro.
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Old 03-17-2005, 04:45 PM   #1289
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Unhappy question about 1/8 buggy diff gears

after putting the diff oil in differential.
How do you keep your diffs from leaking out of the diff.
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Old 03-17-2005, 04:56 PM   #1290
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Unhappy question about 1/8 buggy diff gears

after putting the diff oil in differential.
I mean........
How do you keep your diffs oil from leaking out of the diff.

guys help me out here.
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