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Old 02-04-2005, 03:27 PM   #1186
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Mine broke the second i got it out of the package...never even plugged it in.
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Old 02-08-2005, 02:36 AM   #1187
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My 777 special has just arrived in the post. Its 2nd hand and needs a little TLC.

With regard the diffs - should they be really hard to get into? I had a real struggle to get the screws out the front diff and two look like they've been rubbing on something. Also this TCD front diff - will any red gear oil work? Looks like auto transmission oil to me. Do you only use red oil for this diff.

How does the TCD work then? only difference I can see is the gears having these fiddly square block round them.

On the subject of diffs whats a good starting point with regard centre and rear diff oil weights.

With regard to brakes, how often does the shoe need replacing if ever? Is this a consumeable part that is replaced every few runs or are they pretty well lasting. Surprised the 777 special on has 2 discs where the trend for high spec cars is to have upto 4.

Sorry for all the Qs guys.
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Old 02-08-2005, 09:30 AM   #1188
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A TCD diff locks up under power.
Replace the brake pads like you would on a real car. When they wear out. It should take them a while to wear out.
Center 7000
rear 1000
auto trans fluid should work.

2 brake discs are enough. assuming you are using a decent servo. Not to mention that using 4 discs just spreads the force but the same servo force over 4 discs instead of two.
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Old 02-08-2005, 09:42 AM   #1189
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I've read on sgrid.com that you can use Redline gear oil. From sgrid:

Redline super light 75/90 is the same as kyosho black
Redline light 75/140 is the same as kyosho red
Redline 75/250 red is heavier then the kyosho
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Old 02-08-2005, 09:56 AM   #1190
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Quote:
Originally posted by Local racer
2 brake discs are enough. assuming you are using a decent servo. Not to mention that using 4 discs just spreads the force but the same servo force over 4 discs instead of two.
However, with 4 pads, only 1/2 the servo torque is required than with a 2 pad system for equal stopping power since there is twice the braking surface area.
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Old 02-08-2005, 07:28 PM   #1191
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All you have to do is set them up right, and 2 is just fine... I can completely lock my 2 disk setup with just he slightest movement of the servo if I wanted too...
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Old 02-08-2005, 08:26 PM   #1192
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True, less force is needed for the 4 disc system, it is easier on brake pads and isn't as prone to overheating. The downside is more weight, more maintenance, more potential problems due to more parts.

Just about everything on any race car is a compromise, for example, a heavier diff fluid will make for better acceleration potential, but on a slick or slippery track you'll likely go slower because of it.......

Scooby, the square block is for fluid dispersement, or to lessen it under a load, which means it will act like a much heavier fluid when the gears spin faster................................Jim
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Old 02-09-2005, 04:19 AM   #1193
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I use Castrol Syntrax in my real car gearbox/diff. Its 75/90 so similar to the Kyosho black so I guess I could use that.

How would this effect performance? Its got red in it at the moment but theres hardly any in there.

Syntrax is recommended by alot of scoob owners in the UK so should be OK for my rallycross buggy.
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Old 02-09-2005, 06:26 AM   #1194
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Default Brakes: 2 vs 4

Cradocks are better. No pads to wear out, no fade, no sticking, no chatter, impervious to fuel and engine cleaner, better stopping power. Available in regular or anti-lock. Get rid of the stock brakes and go Cradock.
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Old 02-09-2005, 05:06 PM   #1195
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Default 1/8 newbies

hey guys, need help on 1/8 buggy .

i know zero about nitro and want to switch from EP on road to GP offroad. im thinking to get a hyper 7 for a start.

What or where should i get 1st? any hop ups recomended?
whats the parts often that brake.
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Old 02-09-2005, 05:34 PM   #1196
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Default Re: 1/8 newbies

Quote:
Originally posted by KREATOR1
. im thinking to get a hyper 7 for a start.

What or where should i get 1st? any hop ups recomended?
whats the parts often that brake.
That's a decent starter buggy. The brakes are pretty good and should last a while before the pads need to be replaced. Usually parts break when you slam into something hard which doesn't move. A spare set of front arms may be all you need or if you're very rough on the buggy, maybe a whole back up kit. Most of the times it will be the front arms, steering knuckles, shock shafts or tower that may break.

Also have spare clutch shoes and springs to replace worn out ones. Glow plugs need to be changed out with use.
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Old 02-09-2005, 08:24 PM   #1197
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thanks dude.

.

how often do i have to change the spark plugs. Let say i play 1 time a week, in every run with 2 full tank.
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:30 PM   #1198
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I'm trying to decide on a 1/8 buggy myself. Actually, two. I want one dedicated for racing and one dedicated for heavy bashing/jumping.

For the race buggy, I'm considering the 777 SP1 or the MBX-5 Prospec. I've been reading these pages with great interest. I've been trying to discern which has the best quality of parts (plastic, aluminum, etc.). Does the Kyosho have better quality parts than the Mugen?

For the bash buggy, I'm considering something like a Lightning Pro 2 or maybe the TTR S3. I've read the Lightning Pro 2 is tough, but the TTR S3 hasn't been out long enough for me to have heard any feedback.

I do have a question, though. I am not considering an OFNA, but can can anyone tell me if the X1 CR Pro plastic and parts are better than the regular OFNA stuf (9.5, Hyper 7, etc.)? Are those parts as tough as the Kyosho and Mugen?

Thanks for any help,
Chase
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Old 02-10-2005, 12:26 AM   #1199
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Default TT S3

chase
I would put the Thunder Tiger S3 buggy up there in your race choices with kyosho and mugen!!!This buggy easily competes with the other's.
just my opinion
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Old 02-10-2005, 04:08 AM   #1200
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hey chase , so you are going for the 777.,.. how much is it?
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