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Old 01-28-2005, 11:52 PM   #1141
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it was the slide that jammed. neddle turned in but didnt get any harder or easier . i turned it back out and slide worked again. i did it before with my hyper 21 and all that happened was my mid range needle moved out. i put it back to reg settings ands never had a probl;em with that motor. my real concern was that this motor doesnt have a mid needle. i looke d at the low needle and there was no markings on it. i couldnt see into the carb enough to look at what it seats against. there was no metal flakes or chips or anything . i really hope i didnt screw it up. if i did i guess at least its only the carb. not the whole motor.my other question now is can i just adjust the low needkle to compensate for any damage i may have done to the seat.and thanks for the quick response guys.
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:54 PM   #1142
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you had to go and be dumb.. it's for more than that..


why do people just pull things out of the air and act like they know something.. whatever.. I wonder how many new guys you've sent down the wrong road that wind up quiting the hobby..
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:55 PM   #1143
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Quote:
Originally posted by plumbum
it was the slide that jammed. neddle turned in but didnt get any harder or easier . i turned it back out and slide worked again. i did it before with my hyper 21 and all that happened was my mid range needle moved out. i put it back to reg settings ands never had a probl;em with that motor. my real concern was that this motor doesnt have a mid needle. i looke d at the low needle and there was no markings on it. i couldnt see into the carb enough to look at what it seats against. there was no metal flakes or chips or anything . i really hope i didnt screw it up. if i did i guess at least its only the carb. not the whole motor.my other question now is can i just adjust the low needkle to compensate for any damage i may have done to the seat.and thanks for the quick response guys.
Use some sort of bearing oil on the slide, it won't burn off as easily as after run oil, and it works great.
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:55 PM   #1144
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the ws7II is a remarkable engine.. careful on that set screw..
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:56 PM   #1145
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Quote:
Originally posted by warpig
you had to go and be dumb.. it's for more than that..


why do people just pull things out of the air and act like they know something.. whatever.. I wonder how many new guys you've sent down the wrong road that wind up quiting the hobby..
Is there anyone that respects your opinion anymore? I think maybe the ttr brown nosers on the grid are the only ones that havn't ignored you by now... Stop trying to be cool and just STFU for once...
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Old 01-29-2005, 12:00 AM   #1146
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it wasnt the slide it that jammed . it was when the needle was too far in that the slide wouldnt slide. so my needle that was jammed .
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Old 01-29-2005, 12:01 AM   #1147
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Quote:
Originally posted by plumbum
it was the slide that jammed
Quote:
Originally posted by plumbum
it wasnt the slide it that jammed
Am I missing something here?
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Old 01-29-2005, 12:06 AM   #1148
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sorry man i'm tired and not being clear. okay the slide wouldnt move when the needle was too far in. when i turned the needle back out it slid fine. i was just concerned about now hoving to piss around trying to figure out if i can fix the problem or if there even is a proble.
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Old 01-29-2005, 03:00 PM   #1149
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this is what I think may have happened to your engine it sounds to me like the idle setting has dug into the slider and caused the slider to not slide open and closed smoothly right???

I've done this once or twice and its not a big deal back the needle out and make certain idle adjustments are made with the carb open so the slider will not be damged

there is a groove on the slider inside the carb where the idle adjustment hits and thats what makes it so the carb doesnt close fully

if need be take the carb apart and use a file or something to clean the slider up

if Im wrong and you really have tightened the low speed needle in too much then you will probably need a new one since the end is a probably mushroomed and will never properly meter fuel

warpig I'm with you on this one I've had so many Novarossi engines I cant even count them all and I would bet that no 2 of them ever came with the needle settings set the same number of turns out but I can tell you each of them started and ran great at the settings they had set them at therefore someone must have done something to get them to work properly

in fact my S7 II probably is within 1/2 turn on the high and low speed needles from the original locations and has been run many times in many different weather conditions
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Old 01-29-2005, 03:14 PM   #1150
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ovalevader.. sorry for being a jerk.. I just knew what I was talking about.. and you solidly dissagreed.. I run into a lot of folks that are "know-it-alls" and I don't consider you of that group... just maybe missinformed about RB engines..
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Old 01-29-2005, 03:15 PM   #1151
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...and I'm definately not a "know-it-all".. but I don't say something unless I am certain of it.. sorry again
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Old 01-29-2005, 04:49 PM   #1152
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Quote:
Originally posted by OvalEvader
Thats the mid range needle only, and since most RB engines don't have a mid range needle...
That link (http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...0.21%20engines) has nothing to do with the mid range needle since, as you said, RB carbs don't have them.
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Old 01-29-2005, 06:19 PM   #1153
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Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer
Hey guys,

New to the offroad gas scene...just picked up a used MBX5.

Question on engines....

Being that I am probably a novice OFF road guy, I think I got a pretty good price on a OS VZ B (not a V-spec) brand new for 225.00....

Decent price, or was it too much? I really don't know because I am used to paying alot more for on road engines (299 for the new .12 on road engines)

Thanks....
Just figured I would ask it again since it kinda got buried....
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Old 01-29-2005, 06:39 PM   #1154
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Kansasracer, anywhere around $200-$300 is a good race engine price for "most" racers. They do have modified engines for buggies, like the .12 on-road engines you mentioned.
I have had good success racing 1/10th on-road with $139 engines, but the better drivers with the high dollar engines are tuff to beat. Same in 1/8th scale, I have done well with an O.S. RG that I got for $130 in 1/8th scale off-road, but right now I run a Maxy Modified Mega engine that would set you back about $400...The track and your ability is the real factor for which engine is best.

A shorter version would be, yes you have a good engine and a decent price, LOL.

My Mega engine was tuned for easy starting at the factory as well as all the RB and Novarossi engines i've had. In fact I sometimes have to richen them for break in at about 180-200 degrees........Jim
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Old 01-29-2005, 07:03 PM   #1155
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Jim,

Thanks for the response. I have actually "chased" the engine wars over in on-road for some years....going to JP, Serpent MS editions, Rody, Ritchey and others to chase the best. (Kangaroo .21 mods for 1/8 on-road running in the $800 range)

But being my first time in gas offroad, I just wanted to get in the ballpark. My favorite on-road engines were always Nova based, but I heard that OS was the way to go for off road.

The V-spec that this shop had was like $80 more and I didn't think I would be getting that much more out of it. But to your point, as I get more cometitive, I will probably be looking for some modded engine to get me in the A main...right nowI am looking to NOT BE LAST

Oh and I did get a RG in a trade some time ago...I ws told it was a sport engine and really not upto par in racing. I'll probably use it as a backup for now....
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