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Old 12-01-2004, 06:25 PM   #961
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And maintenence is free? Racing every week, about every 2 weeks I get a set of clutch springs, and bearings, tires/rims and a gallon of fuel, I could race mod truck for about 5 bucks a week, and the initial cost would probably be less. I wouldn't call 4 race packs, 5 motors, and a 500 dollar charger THE BARE ESSENTIALS to race electric, especially when comparing it to a 400 dollar RTR buggy! Show me someone that races 8th scale for 5 bucks a week, and I'll show you someone that never finishes a race...
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Old 12-01-2004, 06:41 PM   #962
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who's your mechanic.. fire him!
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Old 12-01-2004, 06:59 PM   #963
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Quote:
Originally posted by OvalEvader
And maintenence is free? Racing every week, about every 2 weeks I get a set of clutch springs, and bearings, tires/rims and a gallon of fuel,
Yes...maintenance is free(elbow grease), though I do see your point about having to buy parts. Though with the exception of buying nitro and clutch springs dont you have to buy tires,rims and bearings for electrics also. Dont get me wrong. I enjoy racing electrics also, but like Horatio said before theres certain elements that nitro provides that electrics cannot,sound and those 20 minute mains...Yahoo.

Oval, why dont you reuse your rims and why do you have to replace your bearings every other week....are you talking clutch bearings? If so it sounds like your bell may need some shims, but I am no mechanic.
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Old 12-01-2004, 07:13 PM   #964
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I'm not replacing my clutch bell bearings because there blown, its because i don't want to blow... Anyway, I don't reuse my rims because they are glued to my tires, and I think gluing new tires to old cracked and worn rims is about the stupidest idea ever. Personally, I've never managed to blow a bearing in an electric, but if so, thats a minimal cost compared to fuel and 8th scale rebuild parts.
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Old 12-01-2004, 08:00 PM   #965
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clutch bearings are $1.. I replace them every gallon.. my shoes last for 2-2.5 gallons.. if your clutch is improperly setup.. you'll go through bearings, springs, and shoes like mad.. if you know what you're doing.. and don't go for fricking super late delay that is not going to make your car fast.. but will cause a cool "dukes of hazard" peel out.. then you'll burn up stuff.. again.. fire your mechanic..

as for tires.. I run panthers.. the foams don't break down like proline tire foams.. so the treads last a long time.. long long time.. again.. fire your mechanic..

the thing I'm trying to say is.. take some advice that can be given here and on other threads.. you had to of learned electric stuff from somewhere.. so, do the same with nitro.. don't just freakout..

BTW.. by the description of your 1/8 you have under your post.. you buy the most expensive stuff.. choices.. hmm.. I think you should be upset with yourself for buying a high cost 1/8 and expensive engines
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Old 12-02-2004, 04:25 AM   #966
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Clutch bell bearings:

These can be a real problem, but here's what I've found.

1) Always use rubber sealed bearings in the clutch. They are inexpensive and last many times longer than metal shielded bearings that can quickly pick up dirt and subsequently overheat and then collapse.

2) It's already been mentioned, but ensure the clutch is correctly shimmed and that you are using the right springs. The clutch shouldn't be tight when assembled, there should always be some endfloat and the bearings should be lubed with grease not oil.

3) If bearings and shims still seem to wear at an alarming rate, it may point to main/front bearing problems in your engine. This causes a marked increase of vibration which leads to premature failures of other components, especially in the clutch.

Regards

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Old 12-02-2004, 07:35 AM   #967
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Nitro is so much cheaper to race than electric,I'm thinking your forgetting a few things,When I was racing mod truck I remember changing alot of brushes and cutting the coms quite often,and I also had more than one or two mod motors.I also remember that they are just as proud of 1/10th scale parts as they are of 1/8th scale parts(they both cost $$$)I tend to not break as often in 1/8th also.For some I guess nitro can be more money but for me it's less.I have more money in my TC's than I do in my 1/8th scale..
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Old 12-02-2004, 07:53 AM   #968
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Too right - Electric touring cars eat money. I have an RS Yok SD. I've ploughed lots of energy and money into it.

I've seen people on a tight budget start with basic setups and get fed up with them really quickly, even at club level - but before long they're upgrading stuff and living on bread and water.

Pointless having a car like that and not attempting to beat people with it - that involves getting decent cells, decent motors, decent electronics, decent radio, decent servos, decent battery management stuff - the list goes on. The bill soon mounts up.

It all depends on what you're trying to do. I suspect most of us here are talking about racing.

But either way nitro gets you more

'bang for your buck dude'.......
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Old 12-02-2004, 09:45 AM   #969
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Default YICHII KANAI DEMO VIDEO of MP777!!!!

http://dakotathunderrc.net/photos/Ph...rno_MP_777.wmv

FULL 4 mins of YUICHII KANAI DRIVING... you can hear his throttle control during coners, his handling during JUMPS and the coolest is his recovering techniques after a BIG FLIP and recover to continue the RACE...

all shots are CLOSE UP!!!!

included in this vid also a DEMO / EXHIBITION BUGGY RACE with BIG JUMPS and FLIPS during the RCX in ANAHEIM CONVENTION CTR APRIL 2004!!!!!

AWESOME VIDZ!!!


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Old 12-02-2004, 01:54 PM   #970
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AGAIN, I REPLACE CLUTCH BELL BEARINGS BECAUSE I DON'T WANT THEM TO BLOW. I have never ever blown a clutch bell bearing, and I don't have clutch problems... I wonder why? I too run panther tires, and I'm sorry if I prefer new tires... I do prefer more "top of the line" things, in both nitro and electric, and IMO, high end nitro vs. high end electric is no comparison, it is MUCH cheaper for me to run electric.
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Old 12-03-2004, 01:13 AM   #971
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Electric is so bloody expensive!! im sick of it ill use this as an example you buy a FT B4 it comes with nothing so you have blow all your money on batteries,ESC,motor,servo,charger and so on and that can lead you up to nearly $1000!

Last edited by Aaron Waldron; 12-04-2004 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 12-03-2004, 01:56 AM   #972
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Default parts?

hi i'm new to 1/8 buggy world...need a few hints...

i'm about to get a used .. regular mp7.5 or a kanai edition 1 buggy...

since i am not familiar with buggies..could u guys tell me whether parts r still available for this buggy...

thanks...
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Old 12-03-2004, 02:27 AM   #973
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Default Re: parts?

Quote:
Originally posted by rcabj
hi i'm new to 1/8 buggy world...need a few hints...

i'm about to get a used .. regular mp7.5 or a kanai edition 1 buggy...

since i am not familiar with buggies..could u guys tell me whether parts r still available for this buggy...

thanks...
happy to see you here rcabj!!! heheehhe...

go for that kanai edition.

and i think even mp6.5 dont have problem into getting parts especially online shops.

but why you need a second hand buggy? better get a FULLY SUPPORTED from your LHS..... easier for you!!!


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Old 12-03-2004, 02:34 AM   #974
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Default Re: Re: parts?

Quote:
Originally posted by mop_iko
happy to see you here rcabj!!! heheehhe...

go for that kanai edition.

and i think even mp6.5 dont have problem into getting parts especially online shops.

but why you need a second hand buggy? better get a FULLY SUPPORTED from your LHS..... easier for you!!!


mop
you have a point there.... but i can't resist the reputation of these kyosho's buggies...
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Old 12-04-2004, 12:02 AM   #975
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Default Re: Re: Re: parts?

Quote:
Originally posted by rcabj
you have a point there.... but i can't resist the reputation of these kyosho's buggies...
so there you go... YOUR EYES ALREADY SET ON KYOSHO and KYOSHO is for you. as long your LHS supports that (i think most LHS supports KYOSHO BUGGY)... go for it dude!!!!

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