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Old 08-14-2004, 09:43 AM   #676
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I suggest the pcr or pbs hyper cars RTR for several reasons.. the cars are racable even at the highest level in r/c.. they come with good engines producing killer power.. ofna hooks you up big time to get you out on the track (no one else does) the value is remarkable..

I do not suggest the 7.5 because it comes with a very unreliable low power engine to start.. horrible tires that are preglued with no foam installed.. $60 down the drain right there.. knuckles break very easy on that car.. etc etc etc.. low quality car

the ultra lx is a very old design.. but I was driving one 3 weeks ago.. thought it would be funny.. well it was a second off my (leader's) lap times.. very fast... drove solid.. but not as good of parts to deal with.. breakage seems to be an issue for that guy..
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Old 08-14-2004, 03:27 PM   #677
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i stripped the hex screw on my head i was wondering how to get it out
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Old 08-14-2004, 07:21 PM   #678
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got the pcr, looking awesome, didnt start ityet
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Old 08-15-2004, 12:19 AM   #679
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Im so pised Huricane is over east coast nj, atm and i cant start breakin in my buggy, raning like a whore. The kit is awesome, I love the litle details the quality so much better then when I bought my T-max, the starter box is huge, I have never seen anything like it, lol. The manual says to let it idle for 3 minutes ,reapiting 3 times, and leting it cool off in between, I always thought leting your motor idle is bad, especialy during the beark in process, can someone explain to me whats this 8 port motor, compared to normal 21 motors, thanks again guys, for the advice, great looking buggy, hopefuly it performs nice.
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Old 08-15-2004, 06:55 PM   #680
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there are alot of different theorys on engine break-in

personally i dont like to idle tanks through an engine either

but i dont know what you should do since it did give specific instructions

i break my engine in on the track running temps around 200F and ive had extremely good luck using that method
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Old 08-15-2004, 10:56 PM   #681
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Default Hyper 7

Hi guys....

I saw the XRAY XB8 in action yesterday at a local BMX track. The car is rock staedy. It is a PRO kit tho and the owner added on an old OS .21 engine and the kit comes with tons of accessories including a certain top brand tools.... According to the guy, if u buy an XB 8, u dont have to buy any hop ups as ALL the options comes in the kit with the standard parts included..... However it is really out of my league and i am looking for a RTR to bash around.

From my research on the net, there are currently 5 diffrent variations of the Hyper 7.. Im really confused on which one to get... all with the .21 Hyer engine, some of the models being the 7 port version.

There is also the 9.5 by Ofna which comes with a .26 Force engine.. besides the engine, can anyone tell me the other doffrences between the two? I know that it is also wider thus making it illegal for sanctioned races which Im not too concerned about. There are currently 4 diffrent variations of this model. In the place where I live in, Ofna goes by it's native name as Hobao so I guess there isint much diffrence.. anyone care to comment....
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Old 08-15-2004, 10:56 PM   #682
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Im on my 4th tanks, the car sounds insane awesome, sounds like my race car, like it has a freakin turbo! lol, something spooling up, lovin it so far, i noticed realy bad turning while driving, 99% sure its bad batch of AA's in the receiver. The starter box is realy anoing thou, unless im not used to using it, sometimes the flywheel wont grab or it gets stuck, i gota move it by hand, the ruber wheel has a grove in it from the flywheel cranking, maybe i mesed it up in the begining, hrmm, not sure yet how to use that thing properly , but it definitely takes me too long to start the car, or i should say to crank it. Another thing is one of my wing bolts got loose and i lost it during the break in, im pised, lost the washer and the bolt, grrr . I cant wait to take this thing on gravel/track, yikes...
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Old 08-16-2004, 04:40 PM   #683
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confused you should look at the hyper 7s that include the 7 port as those are the better versions as far as which to choose IMO i would go for the pcr version as its the most hopped up i think

turbo yes the starter box is a pain when the engine is new its so hard to turn them over but imagine trying to do it with a pull chord and you will realize how good the starter box really is and when the engine is broken in it should be easier to get started
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Old 08-16-2004, 06:03 PM   #684
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Default Theres a way to start motors without a starter box

Oh yeah I have seen some guys big muscles from trying to start a motor with a pull start.
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Old 08-16-2004, 11:32 PM   #685
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Steering on the buggy isnt all that great, cant imagine it at the track with tight turns, i thought it was gona steer like the Traxas Nitro Rustler wich my cousin has. I ran 5-6 tanks already , the car started to make weird sputering noise when i get off throtle, then 2-3 seconds it idles normal, not sure what that means, too lean on the low end ?
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Old 08-16-2004, 11:41 PM   #686
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PTPRacing whats the diff between 7 and 8 port, isnt the one on my pcr 8 port?
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Old 08-17-2004, 01:06 AM   #687
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Default re: turbo

if it is sputtering it means that its too rich -the engine is trying to burn more fuel then it can handle and usually just blows it out the exhaust. if the engine is new it is better to be too rich then too lean
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Old 08-17-2004, 10:11 AM   #688
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The manual says, 3.5 turns out on the low from being flush. In my tmax turning out would be makin it richer, im so confused.
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Old 08-17-2004, 10:11 AM   #689
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Well it sounds more like a missfire then a sputer thou hmm
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Old 08-17-2004, 11:15 AM   #690
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every engine is different.. I have never followed a manual for tuning.. 3.5 turns out from flush seems odd.. it is possible that is true.. but usually flush with the needle body is very rich already..

I would suggest in your case to start where the manual says and leaning it out from there.. clockwise..

start with the top end needle and lean it out very slowly.. drive it in an open area to achieve top speed.. lean it out in 1 hour increments until you cannot tell a difference in performance on top end.. then richin 1/4 of a turn (counter-clockwise)..

then move on to your low end.. you have to clear the engine out every time you make a change on the low end.. turn the 1/8 to 1/4 a turn at a time until it actually won't stall and die at idle.. as soon as it actually is lean enough to idle only tun in 1 hour increments in small increments until it begins to take off with power.. YOUR CAR SHOULD ONLY IDLE FOR AROUND 10 SECONDS AFTER CLEARING IT OUT AND STILL PRODUCE GOOD POWER OFF THE LINE.. if it idles for a long time and still produces power.. you are too lean..

low end pinch test.. if you clear your engine out on a straight or open area and come to a stop.. pinch the fuel line beside the carb.. it should take aprox. 5 seconds to start to die.. if it take longer... lean out 1 hour at a time until it takes 5 seconds.. if it takes shorter.. richin 1 hour at a time until it takes 5 seconds..

ANY "PERFORMANCE" TUNING MUST BE DONE AFTER THE ENGINE HAS BEEN WARMED UP... around 4 minutes of driving.. the chassis should be warm at this time also.. TUNE WITH THE BODY ONE IN RACE CONDITIONS OR CONDITIONS YOU PLAN TO DRIVE ONLY..

I hope that helps
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