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Old 06-24-2004, 10:42 AM   #571
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The engine is still pretty new. Only about 10 tanks through. It has a good smoke trail. The Temp was 280 after the race was over. I usally only run my 10th scall about 250. I'll richen it up a little. I wasn't bad, it could just be a little better.
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Old 06-24-2004, 10:43 AM   #572
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Quote:
Originally posted by PTP Racing
if i were you i would get the hyper 7 paul coleman pbs
and i havent heard anyone using a hyper 7 pro since the pbs version came out

the closest to a factory team kit would probably be the hyper 7 pro but like i said the pbs seems to be the more popular at this point
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What's the differences between the PCS and the PBS you mentioned? I only see the PBS as a RTR model.
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Old 06-24-2004, 10:45 AM   #573
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PTP - Head to a motorcycle shop and pick up some number plate backing. It works great to cover the bottom of your chassis from getting dirty.
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Old 06-24-2004, 10:47 AM   #574
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Default HYPER 7 PCR

I know this probably isn't the best place to post this, but since the recent posts on the OFNA buggies:

I've got a great condition OFNA Hyper 7 PCR (lay down servo) with center SPYDER diff, extra arms and other parts, two bodies, RB Concepts WS7-II just broke in ran for two 5 minute heats, JR R-1 Radio, reciever, reciever pack, JR Servos Z-590's front and rear, starter box, glow igniter, comes with a set of knuckles and a set of panther chameleon's. All of this is in excellent condition.

$695 for the whole package. My brother took about 5 laps with this buggy this weekend. Buy it and your racing. You will need a crystal set for the radio, battery for the starter box and fuel.

check out my ebay feedback - member ID Motoazure
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Old 06-24-2004, 01:05 PM   #575
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the regular and the pbs are the base models

the pro and the pbs paul coleman are the hopped up versions

pbs stands for pivot ball suspension

i might be mistaken but the hyper 7 pro may include both suspension set-ups

call nitrohouse's info line they can probably tell you things that nobody else even knows though

aaron i will definetly look into that thank you and sorry about my offensive post last night i was just excited about selling stuff so quickly especially an item i wasnt sure would sell at all

and 280 is on the hot side i would bet the bottom end is way too lean and the top is probably too rich i was told the bottom end needle has a greater effect on temp than the high end does most engines run best between 240-260F

it makes sense too cause you said it had good acceleration but poor top speed
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Old 06-24-2004, 09:38 PM   #576
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Be careful with that information...

there is a Hyper 7 PBS RTR, a Hyper 7 PBS PCR RTR, a Hyper 7 Pro and most recently a Hyper 7 Pro PCR...

the pro PCR adds the thick shock towers lay down throttle and steering servo mounts and some other goodies... It's a nice package..I picked up my Hyper 7 Pro used when one of the local racers decided he needed the extra parts of the PCR...

The PCR comes with a center spider diff vs. the Standard and Torsen center diffs that were included in the regular Hyper 7 Pro

Just be wary of people selling used PCR RTR's and thinking that they're the same as the Pro PCR.
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Old 06-24-2004, 11:44 PM   #577
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Has anyone ever stripped out the fitting on the pipe that presurizes the tank?I was moving the position of the fitting and it went loose.Than i took it out and it was stripped!i bought the buggy used and i think it was already stripped and it just got glued in?do they make bigger fitting sizes so you can retap?
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Old 06-25-2004, 08:11 AM   #578
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If you're looking at OFNA buggies for racing consider the pcr pro kit version, includes both c-hub and pbs suspensions and all the nice pcr hop-ups. You could also go with a standard pro 7 kit, I have one and it works well. You can find those kits for $399, good deal, part prices are very reasonable.

If you can wait I'd consider the new Ofna / Jammin x1-cr . They're shooting for a mid to late august release.

Also, over on sgrid.com the ofna guys said they are working on a new hyper 7 kit that should be out around december.
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Old 06-25-2004, 10:23 AM   #579
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Thanks for the info guys. I just got a dynamite micro failsafe, because I can't run pcm on my radio with my aftermarket rx's. Anyways when the failsafe kicks in it shutters like I'm using my abs feature, but I'm not. Any ideas?

Also I'm looking for some tires for a bumpy, dusty, and rocky track. The track usually gets a groove after the first round. Sometimes it does get watered. I've got some Bulldogs and they work better later in night. Most people are using Crimefighters and Mugshots. I'm looking for something different that may work. Maybe some Panter tires.
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Old 06-25-2004, 10:51 AM   #580
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Default tires

Panther Komodo II's - med/soft might work for you.
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Old 06-25-2004, 10:57 AM   #581
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Default Tires

If it gets a groove you might try the new Proline Knuckle 2.0
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Old 06-26-2004, 05:02 PM   #582
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Thanx everyone for the information on the OFNA, I'll let you know which one I pick up.


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Old 06-26-2004, 05:13 PM   #583
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alright you guys answered his ofna question how about my kanai question

k2 or k3

kingzj i know your answer but gotta tell you everyone else has said K2 except you

i really wanna hear from someone who has had them both

the guys who are telling me to get a K2 all run K2's

granted its alot cheaper but it doesnt feel right to get old technology
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Old 06-27-2004, 08:58 PM   #584
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The would not have come out with the k3 if it wasn't better. Kyosho sell buggies no matter what becasue they are simply top notch. I don't think the K3 is a gimmick. I ran the crap out of all my 7.5's and the K3 is the best one yet.
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Old 06-28-2004, 02:48 AM   #585
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I run a K2, and love it.

There isn't a huge difference between that and the K3, you just have to decide if what the K3 has is actually important to you and if you think those things are worth the extra dollars.

Put simply, the K3 can run a little more droop - has a little bit of weight shaved off here and there (twin brakes instead of quads on the K2, milled chassis, some Ti screws) and theres not a whole lot more changes.

If you run full droop on the K2, you are REALLY not going to be caught short, unless your track is terrribly-horribly-no-good-very-bad-ly bumpy.

If you want to save a few bucks get the K2, it's really a nice kit. If you've got a terribly bumpy track, and like the idea of a bit less weight, and also got the bucks, get the K3.

That's the best way I can put it.. hope it helps. Like I said, I run a K2 and love it to death.
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