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Old 05-14-2004, 10:38 PM   #481
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.....you can easily go through clutch shoes with 1.2 springs.
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Old 05-15-2004, 03:38 AM   #482
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Quote:
Originally posted by warpig
I use kyosho diff locking fluid on my Mugen.. uh oh.. haha.. and associated shock oil.. ofna stuff here and there..
lol, I use mugen diff oil on my kyosho, associated shock oil, my flywheel is off the HB lightning, list goes on

Tambok - I just wanted to know whether they existed thats all.
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Old 05-15-2004, 06:49 PM   #483
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hello i'm new to 1/8 scale. I was looking at a 7.5 instruction book and a hyper 7 book, I noticed that they use the same size bearings and wheels. my question is are their other parts that are interchangeable i.e. diffs, turnbuckles, shocks ect.? thanks for any info.
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Old 05-15-2004, 07:46 PM   #484
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All buggies use the same bearings and wheels these days, no big deal.

The hyper7 diffs will fit the 7.5 and I imagine vice versa too, and you should probably use the pinion gear to match the brand of diff too.

I really don't see why you would or why you'd want to though. Which kit are you planning on getting?
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Old 05-15-2004, 08:44 PM   #485
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Quote:
Originally posted by uDi_MP7.5
They will, but you'll have to drill them out with a 2.6mm drill bit, or something like that.

Why?

because the Kyosho flywheel pins are 2.6mm in diameter, every other buggy flywheel in existance (including mugen) run 2.5mm diameter pins. So you'll have to drill the holes to 2.6mm to put the shoes on the kyosho flywheel. Just make sure you drill it out to 2.6 and no more.

I'd wait for Pauls reply on it since he actually runs the mugen shoes though, I don't.

btw does anyone know which is actually stiffer out of the Kyosho and Mugen 1.1 springs? I ordered the mugen since they were half the price but id still like to know. Also, can anyone get mugen 1.2 springs there? I heard somewhere you could get them but the mugen distributor here said they don't exist
You do not need to drill out the holes in the mugen shoes, never knew they were different. They seem to work fine too. Kyosho springs are very stiff on the mugen shoes, alot more than the mugen springs are, not because of the stiffness. The Kyosho springs are more compressed (preload...) with the Mugen shoes because the notch for the kyosho shoes is deeper in the shoe compared to the mugen ones. The opposite is true for the Mugen springs and kyosho shoes, that combo is not recommended. Mugen springs dont work well with kyosho shoes.
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Old 05-16-2004, 01:59 AM   #486
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Weird okay. I don't actually use Kyosho shoes, I have a friend in canada who CNC machines shoes and I use his ones. When I tried to fit his shoes on my Kyosho flywheel, I had to spend some serious time turning them on the pins to get them to fit on. But they went straight on to all my other flywheels. (ofna, hot bodies, all 2.5mm) Maybe the Mugen pins are 2.6mm too? who knows.
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Old 05-17-2004, 07:05 PM   #487
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uDi_MP7.5--I was just trying to be cheap OFNA parts are much less expensive than inferno. I made a mistake and got a sport kit that had a few upgrades but still need titanium turnbucles and cva's so I was hopeing other brands would fit. thanks for the info I will stick with kyosho parts.
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Old 05-19-2004, 05:22 PM   #488
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What would cause a motor (p5) to idle high for a few seconds, after running wide open, then settle down into a nice idle? Its not the linkage binding up, the carb goes shut immediatly. Other then that the motor runs awsome. Im thinking its an air leak somewhere.
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Old 05-19-2004, 05:30 PM   #489
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tuning dude.

Try leaning your lowend, richening the topend, and reducing the idle speed as low as you can without her cutting out.

Play around with doing that and it should sort out your problem.

If it doesn't work then i've got it all wrong.... lol
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Old 05-19-2004, 06:17 PM   #490
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actually, if your rpm are staying up when going back to idle, it's your bottom end is too lean. i'd richen it up about 1-2 hours.
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Old 05-19-2004, 07:10 PM   #491
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http://rbproducts.com/rbww/ubb/cgi-b...c;f=1;t=001713

read, valuable info inside..
note asc's, alex. w's and captnmorgan's posts.
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Old 05-19-2004, 07:36 PM   #492
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a properly tuned engine will load up eventually.. it is actually a good sign if it idles a bit high then goes to a slower idle.. if anything.. richen your top end.. it sounds like it's coming off wide open throttle a little lean and then getting fuel back at idle..

I'd richen your top end up 1/4 of a full turn.. and retune the top to where it just starts to scream.. you are probably close to where you want to be.. what more than likely happened was you tuned your top end to power then tuned your low end without richening your top again..

when I tune.. I start with both needles at a noticably rich setting.. I tune the top end to power.. where it "begins" to scream.. then I richen it 1/4 turn then tune the low needle to where it will idle for 5-10 seconds and still have good power off the line.. but will load up after any more idle time than that.. it usually all falls into place after that.. but sometimes the top needle needs to be leaned 1-2 more hours after that..

hope that helps.. if you plan to retune completely.. put a full turn out on both needles and start over.. it's not uncommon to have to retune an engine.. I do it every time mine is out
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Old 05-20-2004, 02:30 AM   #493
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The NS S-25 engine in my Savage had a tendancy to do exactly what has just been described. At the end of the straight, it wouldn't return to idle, but would rev for a couple of seconds before settling down. This only seemed to happen during racing conditions when the engine was fully warm and about half way through a tank of fuel.

The problem was solved by richening the main needle by 1/8th of a turn. The engine now runs sweet as a nut, pops wheelies on command and runs at around 280 - 290 degrees.
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Old 05-21-2004, 05:45 AM   #494
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What's the word on the Ofna Hyper 8 race engine? What pipe works well with it?
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Old 05-21-2004, 08:31 PM   #495
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The RB concept pipe kicks ass on that motor. Great power thoughout the band.
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