1/8 Offroad Buggy
#466
Tech Rookie
Originally posted by warpig
I run so my front brake engages harder than my rear.. I want very minimal rear brake.. just a fade.. they work around the corner better allowing the diff to still be used.. and it's stable when brakes are applied.. the work to control the tilt of the car on very large jumps..
I rarely use brakes when racing.. very very seldom.. but I know when I use them.. I don't want my rear swinging around
I run so my front brake engages harder than my rear.. I want very minimal rear brake.. just a fade.. they work around the corner better allowing the diff to still be used.. and it's stable when brakes are applied.. the work to control the tilt of the car on very large jumps..
I rarely use brakes when racing.. very very seldom.. but I know when I use them.. I don't want my rear swinging around
#468
paul from rc411 forums?
do you run a mugen too now? i remember you ran kyosho *i think*
do you run a mugen too now? i remember you ran kyosho *i think*
#469
Tech Rookie
I have a K3, before that, it was a k2, before that a K1...
The extra suspension travel in the K3 is amazing especially at my track where cars flip at the end of the straight due to ruts. My car just floats over everything.
The extra suspension travel in the K3 is amazing especially at my track where cars flip at the end of the straight due to ruts. My car just floats over everything.
#470
I had the standard 7.5 and now a K2. I seem to buy every second buggy or so.
Big bump handling difference compared to the K2? The only difference is the rear shock length right?
Big bump handling difference compared to the K2? The only difference is the rear shock length right?
#471
Originally posted by uDi_MP7.5
warpig - i actually did want to swing my rear around, lol. anyways i think you guys are right, just a matter of playing around and finding what suits the particular track
habenstein - i got an lsd with red oil up front, might try it in center if i get real desperate but prolly not. Everyone seems to run em up front only
horatio - yeah a uk guy showed me the pdf of the pro-uk, I think it's just the PCR-Pro for the most part like warpig said. Have the hypers switched over to the K-style uni's now? i remember the original h7's running cvd's.
warpig - i actually did want to swing my rear around, lol. anyways i think you guys are right, just a matter of playing around and finding what suits the particular track
habenstein - i got an lsd with red oil up front, might try it in center if i get real desperate but prolly not. Everyone seems to run em up front only
horatio - yeah a uk guy showed me the pdf of the pro-uk, I think it's just the PCR-Pro for the most part like warpig said. Have the hypers switched over to the K-style uni's now? i remember the original h7's running cvd's.
I've run Mugen CVD's in my RR (front & both centres) for years & years and they show no signs of wear and have been 100 percent dependable. Just so long as you use plenty of thread lock on those grub screws!
#473
Tech Rookie
both the front and rear A-arms are cut out a bit where the droop screw is so they can sit lower. The rear shocks are longer to allow full extension and the front upper arms are cut out a bit so they dont hit the steering slider when fully extended down. It really makes a big difference in bumby tracks.
Scrad-
I never use the 2 shoe clutch, they simply don't last long enough. What 3 shoe are you talknig about, the composite one or the aluminum one? The composite 3 shoe is excellent, with either the 1.0 or the 1.1 springs (use 1.0s for lower traction tracks). I hate the kyosho aluminum shoes. They seem inconsistant and don't last every long. My favorite clutch set-up is the mugen alu. shoes with the kyosho 1.1 springs. That set-up provides the most punch at the bottom end.
Scrad-
I never use the 2 shoe clutch, they simply don't last long enough. What 3 shoe are you talknig about, the composite one or the aluminum one? The composite 3 shoe is excellent, with either the 1.0 or the 1.1 springs (use 1.0s for lower traction tracks). I hate the kyosho aluminum shoes. They seem inconsistant and don't last every long. My favorite clutch set-up is the mugen alu. shoes with the kyosho 1.1 springs. That set-up provides the most punch at the bottom end.
#474
Tech Apprentice
#476
So the Mugen aluminum shoes fit a K3?
#477
They will, but you'll have to drill them out with a 2.6mm drill bit, or something like that.
Why?
because the Kyosho flywheel pins are 2.6mm in diameter, every other buggy flywheel in existance (including mugen) run 2.5mm diameter pins. So you'll have to drill the holes to 2.6mm to put the shoes on the kyosho flywheel. Just make sure you drill it out to 2.6 and no more.
I'd wait for Pauls reply on it since he actually runs the mugen shoes though, I don't.
btw does anyone know which is actually stiffer out of the Kyosho and Mugen 1.1 springs? I ordered the mugen since they were half the price but id still like to know. Also, can anyone get mugen 1.2 springs there? I heard somewhere you could get them but the mugen distributor here said they don't exist
Why?
because the Kyosho flywheel pins are 2.6mm in diameter, every other buggy flywheel in existance (including mugen) run 2.5mm diameter pins. So you'll have to drill the holes to 2.6mm to put the shoes on the kyosho flywheel. Just make sure you drill it out to 2.6 and no more.
I'd wait for Pauls reply on it since he actually runs the mugen shoes though, I don't.
btw does anyone know which is actually stiffer out of the Kyosho and Mugen 1.1 springs? I ordered the mugen since they were half the price but id still like to know. Also, can anyone get mugen 1.2 springs there? I heard somewhere you could get them but the mugen distributor here said they don't exist