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Old 05-10-2004, 10:01 PM   #466
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Originally posted by warpig



I run so my front brake engages harder than my rear.. I want very minimal rear brake.. just a fade.. they work around the corner better allowing the diff to still be used.. and it's stable when brakes are applied.. the work to control the tilt of the car on very large jumps..

I rarely use brakes when racing.. very very seldom.. but I know when I use them.. I don't want my rear swinging around
I do quite the opposite, I adjust the front brakes so that they just barely don't lock-up while the rear does. Doing this allows me to swing the rear end around in tight slow corners. If there isnt any turns like that, I just dont swing the rear end around , rarely do I change that set-up. I do this because I like my car to push a bit on-power. Swinging the rear end around alows me to get on-power early. If I were to set my car up with some oversteer, I would probably do what you do and add more front brake bias. I dont though because I think its a bit tougher to drive that way, especially when jumping.
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Old 05-10-2004, 10:07 PM   #467
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all preference and setup I suppose..
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Old 05-10-2004, 10:39 PM   #468
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paul from rc411 forums?
do you run a mugen too now? i remember you ran kyosho *i think*
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Old 05-10-2004, 11:16 PM   #469
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I have a K3, before that, it was a k2, before that a K1...

The extra suspension travel in the K3 is amazing especially at my track where cars flip at the end of the straight due to ruts. My car just floats over everything.
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:34 AM   #470
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I had the standard 7.5 and now a K2. I seem to buy every second buggy or so.

Big bump handling difference compared to the K2? The only difference is the rear shock length right?
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Old 05-11-2004, 04:01 AM   #471
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Quote:
Originally posted by uDi_MP7.5
warpig - i actually did want to swing my rear around, lol. anyways i think you guys are right, just a matter of playing around and finding what suits the particular track

habenstein - i got an lsd with red oil up front, might try it in center if i get real desperate but prolly not. Everyone seems to run em up front only

horatio - yeah a uk guy showed me the pdf of the pro-uk, I think it's just the PCR-Pro for the most part like warpig said. Have the hypers switched over to the K-style uni's now? i remember the original h7's running cvd's.
The old hyper 7 CVD's were a pain - they kept breaking - way too soft IMO. Instead of revising them or making them out of a harder material, they just went to hardened UJ's instead. But at least they work!! Personally, I prefer CVD's so long as they're properly built and stay together.

I've run Mugen CVD's in my RR (front & both centres) for years & years and they show no signs of wear and have been 100 percent dependable. Just so long as you use plenty of thread lock on those grub screws!
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Old 05-11-2004, 08:37 AM   #472
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When I bought my K2 I got a 2 shoe and 3 shoe clutch. Which one should I try first. My track is hard packed clay, where I'll need the low end to make some of the double and triples. Some are right after turns where I'll need the low end.
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Old 05-11-2004, 03:34 PM   #473
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both the front and rear A-arms are cut out a bit where the droop screw is so they can sit lower. The rear shocks are longer to allow full extension and the front upper arms are cut out a bit so they dont hit the steering slider when fully extended down. It really makes a big difference in bumby tracks.

Scrad-
I never use the 2 shoe clutch, they simply don't last long enough. What 3 shoe are you talknig about, the composite one or the aluminum one? The composite 3 shoe is excellent, with either the 1.0 or the 1.1 springs (use 1.0s for lower traction tracks). I hate the kyosho aluminum shoes. They seem inconsistant and don't last every long. My favorite clutch set-up is the mugen alu. shoes with the kyosho 1.1 springs. That set-up provides the most punch at the bottom end.
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Old 05-14-2004, 01:21 AM   #474
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More new stuff in:-

http://www.rctech.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?forumid=48

in the offroad thread
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Old 05-14-2004, 09:06 AM   #475
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Have any of you used the Fironi sliding clutch? Just wondering if it was any good.
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Old 05-14-2004, 12:24 PM   #476
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So the Mugen aluminum shoes fit a K3?
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Old 05-14-2004, 07:13 PM   #477
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They will, but you'll have to drill them out with a 2.6mm drill bit, or something like that.

Why?

because the Kyosho flywheel pins are 2.6mm in diameter, every other buggy flywheel in existance (including mugen) run 2.5mm diameter pins. So you'll have to drill the holes to 2.6mm to put the shoes on the kyosho flywheel. Just make sure you drill it out to 2.6 and no more.

I'd wait for Pauls reply on it since he actually runs the mugen shoes though, I don't.

btw does anyone know which is actually stiffer out of the Kyosho and Mugen 1.1 springs? I ordered the mugen since they were half the price but id still like to know. Also, can anyone get mugen 1.2 springs there? I heard somewhere you could get them but the mugen distributor here said they don't exist
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Old 05-14-2004, 09:10 PM   #478
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I've never heard of them.. I never run anything more than 1.0's though..
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Old 05-14-2004, 09:13 PM   #479
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Kyosho parts go on kyosho cars and mugen parts go on mugen cars its a pretty simple concept
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Old 05-14-2004, 10:31 PM   #480
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I use kyosho diff locking fluid on my Mugen.. uh oh.. haha.. and associated shock oil.. ofna stuff here and there..
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