cossieboi

he's so butch isnt he?

uDi_MP7.5

iTrader: (3)

Sounds pretty good. Bargain him down though, it's a habit of mine even if its a good buy to start off with lol. Say 300 and he will probably do that or go in between for 325 or something.

If you've got a starterbox, this engine would probably work sweet for you, its $175

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFAC3&P=ML

If you don't have a box, you should be able to look around and find the pullstart version of it, just seems they're not common in US. Or invest in a starterbox, it's cooler.

cossieboi

$350 sounds like a sweet deal for a near new kanai

Horatio

I prefer the term 'pro-active' - it sounds better and isn't so camp either.

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the link. I might have to get that one. I actually have 2 starter boxes, but both are those stupid 2 550's or whatever. Whould a gel cell have more torque than 2 stick packs?

Also I could have gotten the buggy for $300, but he isn't making me pay it all at one time. So I compromised with him. But if I get some cash tomorrow I might just give him $300.

uDi_MP7.5

iTrader: (3)

I use two 1800mah stick packs, but of course the Gel Cel lasts way longer. It won't give out any more power, but yeah, you'll get a lot longer use out of a single charge.

My box has the one big motor which I prefer (probably sucks more juice too) but the twin 550 setup should be fine if you set it up nicely.

cossieboi

scrad, try two old stock motors, i used to use that set up on 1/8th on road, worked well.

Horatio

I use a Mugen starter box with a couple of Sanyo 'Race 2000's'. The motors are the ordinary silver can RS540 variety, but this set-up seems to work very well, even when I was running in my extremely tight WS7.

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

I have 2 old 1500's in my 1/10 box and those die so fast. I might just get a gell cell for my new box, or higher mah's. I guess I shouldn't have gotten rid of my Sanyo 3300's.

BTW I got some cash together so I got that Kanai for $300. I also put that Ofna motor on order with a Jammin pipe.

What throttle and brake servos you guys using? I was thinking about using a JR 590M. Or would a standard servo be able to apply enough braking power.

uDi_MP7.5

iTrader: (3)

I used to have a stock servo there, but it wasnt all too strong on brakes... I got a pair of 9451 digitals with my 3pk so I chucked one of them on, but in general any 80-100oz servo should do the trick. It's nice to have faster than .2 transit time as well

Horatio

How do you find the digital 9451 servo used for the throttle/brake?

I've been advised (perhaps incorrectly for all I know) against using digital servos for throttle applications, apparently due to the way they work they are more prone to failing than analogue servos. (?)

What do you guy's think about this?

At present I'm using a Hitec 5925 digital on steering, no probs whatsoever for over 2 years, and a Hitec 645 on the throttle - again no probs with this either for 3 years! Total cost for BOTH was just £74 (£44 for the 5925 & £30 for the 645)

Scrad:

If you're on a budget, you might like to try 'em. I know others have had probs with them, but so far (touch wood) I've had total reliability.

cossieboi

i've had no such problems with using digitals on my 1/8th circuit car, using a 3pj, maybe ive been lucky but havent heard of any such probs.

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

I'll never buy a Hitec servo. I usually use a brand called MPI. Maxx Products International,Inc. It is a metal servo with about 100 oz torque and a transet time of .08 at 6 volts. But on the packaging it says rated at 4.8. I've been using them on all of my cars for steering. Never had a problem with them. It's basically a Futaba knock off. Plus they are only $53 bucks.

uDi_MP7.5

iTrader: (3)

Horatio - it works a charm, probably overkill, but like I said I just use it because I have it. (i scored a 3pk, hrs rx, and 2x 9451 for us$280 ) If I had to actually buy one i'd have something lesser there.

I can see how they could be stressed when in braking mode, but so far so good. I run ABS so it isn't cranking on the brakes too hard for an extended period of time ---

but still, even with no ABS I think it'd be fine as long as you only had the servo pulling on brakes as much as it needed to, not more like people often run. IMO Set the endpoints right and digitals are fine (as long as its a futaba )

Scrad - if it works and you like it, stick with it. Those specs sound great for thr/brake.

Horatio

Thanks guys!

I suspect that as digitals draw far more current, they are more fussy as regards proper set-up and being stalled etc. uDi - I agree with you that the reason people blow up digital servos is most likely down to incorrect linkage, atv and endpoint set-up.

One other thing; the dead band on these digital servos is very narrow. This is great for accurate centering, but bad in that it can lead to the servo 'arguing with itself' (a bit like me ) at neutral. Perhaps this may explain certain failures, across the board. Fortunately it is possible to program the latest digital servos and this could prevent these problems.

At any rate, I'm going to bite the bullet and try a 5945 (13kg and .13 transit time @ 6v) on the throttle - if I manage to blow one up, I'll just blame uDi.......