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Old 02-16-2004, 04:23 AM   #181
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:48 AM   #182
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just to let anyone know.. I do have a rebuilt OS VZ-B for sale.. new piston and sleeve, new rod.. $150 shipped.. thanks


I hear on the K3 the setup you get with the kit is pretty good...
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:20 PM   #183
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Yea but they don't tell you what shock oil to start with.
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:22 PM   #184
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Good starting point would be 50 front and 40 rear for the K3. However if you build it box stock it might have a push due to the lsd diff in the front, you may either need to limit the rear droop or go to 50 in the rear shocks.
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:26 PM   #185
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what did you do to aleviate the push?? maybe that would help
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Old 02-17-2004, 12:15 PM   #186
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Is anyone running the Racers Edge shock ends. They end up making the shock stroke a little shorter because they go up the shock shaft farther then the stock ends. They also make the overall length of the shock a little longer too. Just wondering what that would do as far as handling goes.
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Old 02-17-2004, 03:33 PM   #187
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it probably wouldnt make much of a difference at least probably not very noticable if at all on the track

but little stuff like that is why i stick with factory made parts especially in a crucial area like suspension
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Old 02-17-2004, 04:27 PM   #188
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Default K3

Many K3 in my track set the shocks at F 30/ R 25 or F 40 / R 30.
What is it about the droop that can be adjusted to minimize the push? Manual says to position the set screw 1mm out. My K3 has a F 40/ R 25 shock oil.
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Old 02-17-2004, 08:39 PM   #189
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Where are you guys setting your ride height? I assume arms level.
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Old 02-17-2004, 09:21 PM   #190
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for the K3???

I've noticed my X5 likes to be a bit tall.. it must allow for sway... it corners much better and the rear locks in place.. the same thing is true for my B4.. but, I'm not sure if that is why or not.. I have yet to figure it out.. I thought lower would help since the CG is lower...

on my X5 the rear bones are slightly above level... front bones level.. that seems to be what it likes..
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Old 02-17-2004, 09:41 PM   #191
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If you minimize droop by screwing in the droop screws you will in simpl terms take traction away from the end of the car you adj. on. If your car is pushing you either have to much rear traction or to little front traction. I run my front end with the droop screws out of the car and I have even taken my dremel and angled the the landings where the the droop screws hit the chassis to give more front droop. I play with the rear droop and rear sway bar length to get the feel I like (these are very simple setting that can be done quickly while making practice laps) I run the bones level. You can also get more steering by lengthing the wheel base (this puts more weight on the front wheels) You will be surprised at how much these 3 items will completely change your car and how you can basically dial your car in within a couple of practice laps.

this all applies to the Kyosho 7.5 I am sure some of it can apply to the mugen as well but I cant verify that.
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Old 02-18-2004, 12:56 PM   #192
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Yea, I was refering to the K3
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Old 02-22-2004, 10:31 PM   #193
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Just wondering???/ Whats makes the Kanai Edition 3 better than the Edition 2?
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Old 02-22-2004, 10:42 PM   #194
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I think you can find that out at www.kyosho.com but, of course it will go something like this:

we introduce to you the most amazing car ever built....

nothing can beat it.. just look at our track record...

why, just last week a guy who never raced in his life won nationals...

of course I'm kidding... it is a nice car... but, don't listen to the wrong things... I always try to say get the car your buddies race with and make sure they have parts locally... so, you can exchange tuning tips/tricks and help each other out...
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Old 02-22-2004, 11:08 PM   #195
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K3 isn't better just different in a few ways with a few upgraded parts from the k2, different front and rear arms (front arms are stronger and rear arms allow for more droop) ti screws (still wood screws wich should be replaced with machine screws for holding power) lighter chassis (same chassis just less of it wich will make it weaker in the long run) brakes ( 2 disck's instead of 4 wich is less rotating mass but also less braking power most people use the cradock or ferdo disks anyways) front roll center (good on some tracks and not so good on others) rear shocks ( 2mm longer wich when coupled with new style arms gives more rear droop)
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