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Old 07-22-2005, 08:49 PM   #1486
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20 deg is the least u can go with the standard top arms.

dont even try 17deg it too twithcy
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Old 07-23-2005, 07:39 PM   #1487
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Ok fellas, it's time to change the diff oil in my K3. I imagine I have to take apart the actual diff to get all the oil out, then clean everything up. My question is what is the process of filling them and how much do I fill them? Just fill em up through the hole in the housing? Or do I fill the deep half of the case up and then put it together? My buggies in a million pieces which isn't a problem just wanted to get some insight on the filling part.
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Old 07-23-2005, 08:31 PM   #1488
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jbrow, to fill the diff cases the diff ring/spur gear has to be off. This is a good time to clean out all the old grease and grime and the gears should be cleaned as well. Just use a old towel for this, since solvents can actually create a barrier against the new fluid, keeping the gears from proper lubrication.

The set screw hole is for the pin access only, since it would be impossible to introduce fluid without being able to expel the air at the same time, so one hole won't work on anon vented case of any kind.

For filling just add fluid until it covers the cross pins(aka bevel gear pins) then reassemble using a little ultra black silicone sealer(auto parts) if you have some available and a new gasket should also be used....hope this makes sense?.....good luck, Jim
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Old 07-23-2005, 08:43 PM   #1489
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Can anyone tell me if all Hyper 7 chassis' are the same? I have the basic TQ RTR and I need to replaced it, and I only see PBS/PCR ones on eBay.
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Old 07-23-2005, 10:10 PM   #1490
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Thanks Jim. I didn't think filling thru the hole would work as the oil is to thick and the air couldn't get out either. He.. the oil won't even come out the one hole when flipped over. Thanks for the how to.
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Old 07-23-2005, 10:56 PM   #1491
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Thanks Jim !

Well, i guess buggies are unlike on-road ... where the weights are much closer... normally about ~100 gms above the min. weight... be it 1/10 or 1/8 on-road ! Some factory drivers sometimes even get caught being underweight in their race qualifying rounds !

I also guess it's 300 grams off because of all those CNC/metal upgrade parts ... which i think is a MUST for buggies... the plastic ones would not last through those jumps after jumps and abuse ! They would simply bend or deformed...

Thanks !
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Old 07-24-2005, 06:58 PM   #1492
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For me one of the biggest draws to the 1/8th buggy class was nobody cared much at all about teching these things it was always run what you brung and have a good race. With the onroad crowd especially electric there was always so much chatter about who was cheating and inane tech like how big a hole you had in your windsheild. Like it was really going to matter if someone used a 2.05 inch hole instead of 2.000. I actually had to buy a new body at the ROAR nats since apparently my measuring device was a tad off and the hole in my cars windsheild was ever so slightly out of legal spec.
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:23 PM   #1493
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PTP, LOL....That has been my on road experience too, it's a shame, they are a blast to drive, but the politics make it tuff.

Bad mika, true, the on road weights are more important then off road. The main factor is traction, in on road there is "usually" tons of it, so traction from weight isn't an issue it is all mechanical. In off road we've done some experimenting over the years and on some tracks we tried a lightweight, I mean, super lightweight 2w car in the stock class. The car was right on the minimum weight, aluminum outdrives, trans gear pins, etc then a standard car back to back which was almost 6 oz over the min. We ended up running a faster lap with the light car, but a faster overall time with the standard car, a few times back to back with 2 different drivers....Bottom line, the weight made the car easier to drive fast in off road.....Of course, there is a point where some weight reduction is needed, but imo, 6-8 oz or so isn't a big deal in 1/8th........... Jim
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Old 07-24-2005, 08:46 PM   #1494
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Got the diffs all taken apart and cleaned for the K3. Quite the setup these things run. Could I use a light coat of orange rtv in place of the black silicone sealer to ensure a non-leaking diff? Only asking as I already have that, but a trip to the auto store is no problem either.
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Old 07-24-2005, 10:03 PM   #1495
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jbrow, the orange will work fine too, I prefer the black, but as long as they aren't dry you'll be in good shape.........Jim
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Old 07-25-2005, 09:50 AM   #1496
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hey guys! quick question. are there are any bad effects if i make my fuel line really long?? I'm chasing after a certain runtime and I got curious whether this might be the right way to go. thanks
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:32 PM   #1497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genius
hey guys! quick question. are there are any bad effects if i make my fuel line really long?? I'm chasing after a certain runtime and I got curious whether this might be the right way to go. thanks
Should be fine. I'd just add another high capacity fuel filter instead or do both. If your chasing run times though you'll probably have to lean it out unless it's close. That and if you go to a roar race the fuel capacity is set to a maximum and you'll probably not make it. Club racing though I doubt anybody would ever care. It'll be harder to prime also.
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Old 07-25-2005, 04:24 PM   #1498
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A little while back I was trying to stretch runtime too I tried extra filters more fuel tubing leaning the mixture out and none of those options were reliable enough I always ran out anyway and it cost me way more time than an extra stop would have. After that I decided 6-7 minutes was all I would ever try and go between pits I especially dont like running too low on fuel since the engine will run kinda eratically.
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Old 07-25-2005, 04:30 PM   #1499
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Good points, especially the time for a pit is much less than a flameout. What motor are you running anyhow? The more expensive motors seem to get better fuel mileage than the entry motors. If you're to the point where an extra pit stop will hurt you maybe it's time for a $$$ motor.
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:10 PM   #1500
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I was running a EB mods P5 and trying to get 7.5 minutes on a fast flowing track. The qualifiers were 15 minutes and I was trying to go with only one stop apparently 7.5 minutes was about 10 seconds more than I could go considering the start was after going a lap from the pit and you had to be lucky to pit right at the 7.5 minute mark. 1st qualifier it died with 2 corners left to the line 1 more blip of throttle woulda been enough to coast on through. 2nd qualifier I didnt make it into the pit before flaming and in the 3rd I made it into the pit but flamed coming out due to no fuel in the lines. 4th I didnt make it into the pits again before it died. The worst part is my pit lap on the first qualifier was only 5 seconds slower and if I had finshed any one of the qualifiers without flaming my time would have been plenty fast enough for the A main and it was a money race I ended up in the B in 4th since a couple fast guys had even more trouble than I did and bumped from the C. Basically I was the 2nd guy who didnt get paid actually the first since the guy immediately in front of me had gotten money from the bump. Next time I will just pit twice and try and make up time on the track instead of in the pits.
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