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HoBao Hyper 9E thread

HoBao Hyper 9E thread

Old 03-08-2010, 08:58 AM
  #1216  
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Set up the buggy to be as light as possible if your having issues w/ chasis flex. I think the car was designed to flex some because it makes it more forgiving on rough u.s. tracks. Perhaps run a neu 1509 2y w/ a 6s 2650 lipo & a MMpro. That would shave about a pound off of alot of the setups you guys mentioned right here & get your 10 minutes of run time.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:59 AM
  #1217  
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Originally Posted by mariano2cv View Post
the chassis of the hyper 9 depends on all parts to withstand the shocks, I remove the battery box. The chassis lost its rigidity. If only a small building partner you think you have problems, but if you decide to remove it must add a piece for greater rigidity greetings from Argentina and forgive my English
For that matter that battery itself becomes part of the system when strapped in too. A hard pack would stiffer than a soft pack, stand up stiffer than lay down.
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:02 AM
  #1218  
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Originally Posted by party_wagon View Post
Set up the buggy to be as light as possible if your having issues w/ chasis flex. I think the car was designed to flex some because it makes it more forgiving on rough u.s. tracks. Perhaps run a neu 1509 2y w/ a 6s 2650 lipo & a MMpro. That would shave about a pound off of alot of the setups you guys mentioned right here & get your 10 minutes of run time.
6S on a 2650?? Oh, mah not KV, I just looked it up the 1509 2Y is 1820 KV, that is more like it.You must be on a fairly large track though still. I have seen the 9E and there is no way to put a small pinion in there as the motor can will hit the out drive to the front of the center diff. That motor/batt setup will be turning over 40000 rpm. Don't we usually want to target closer to 30000? On a 1509 moor though, that becomes a problem as the internal resistamce of the 2Y is already up at 0.018 ohms. It will be nice and smooth to drive, but I thinjk you may run a bit hot as that will have quite a bit more copper heat loss than the 1512 2050 I am running at 0.006 ohms, even though I am doing it at 4S. On 6S it takes 45 amps to make 1000 watts from the battery. That current into the motor comes out to copper loss alone of 37 watts. The 2050 on 4S at the same 1000 watts needs 68 amps, but at just 0.006 ohms, the copper loss is only 27 watts.

I am a big believer in higher voltage being better for less loss and all, but the lower KV motors need to be bigger to keep the resistance down. At OCRC most of the fastest guys are now down to running just 3S. For now I am sticking to the 4S setup. I am HEAVY, but it gives me a huge range of gearing options with heat and run time not being aan issue.

Last edited by GSMnow; 03-08-2010 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:47 PM
  #1219  
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Originally Posted by balistic View Post
This post is exactly why I question the things you post about.

you state as a fact that the 9e has a very rigid chassis but as we know chassis flex is what is causing some of the problems that make the motor mount suspect.
I think your miss understanding my post or I'm not fully understanding yours, either way I think were both on the same page of working out any design kinks the user(s) (meaning guys in this thread) may find after hours of use. When I said cutting the battery box in half I meant length wise, not width. By doing so you reduce the rigidity of lateral flex. The buggy is stiff front/rear and the over built battery box does not allow for greater lateral flex and the beefy battery box was was used to act as a chassis stiffener. Your right about the rear flex and that is solved by placing a link from the rear bridge brace to the back of the servo plate.

(Please see picture of my H9e)

HoBao Hyper 9E thread-img_0003.jpg

As for the Elite RC Mount, that does not increase or reduce the lateral or front/rear stiffness, but it does capture your center diff from excess play under torque.

(Look at the picture of Jeremy Kortz battery box)
HoBao Hyper 9E thread-adam-w_jeramy-mc-cortz-09.jpg

Last edited by Hyper ST-E Guy; 03-08-2010 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:11 PM
  #1220  
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I am looking for a new way to run electric after a strong MT season last year. I am wanting to stick with electric after my big investment in the equipment to run the MT. I am looking at two vehicles and the 9e is on the top of my list. My question is what seems to be the weakest parts of the car. I am wanting a good quality car that does not cost me a arm and leg to get the weak points out. The only other car I have even added to my list is the AE RC8BE, but to build that it puts me right at 600 in the car before I get to the rest of the equipment. Anyway before last season I raced Jammin's with very little issues, so going back with a OFNA product. Hopefully this one is the same way.

Thanks
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:48 AM
  #1221  
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Originally Posted by Jammin_Xtream49 View Post
I am looking for a new way to run electric after a strong MT season last year. I am wanting to stick with electric after my big investment in the equipment to run the MT. I am looking at two vehicles and the 9e is on the top of my list. My question is what seems to be the weakest parts of the car. I am wanting a good quality car that does not cost me a arm and leg to get the weak points out. The only other car I have even added to my list is the AE RC8BE, but to build that it puts me right at 600 in the car before I get to the rest of the equipment. Anyway before last season I raced Jammin's with very little issues, so going back with a OFNA product. Hopefully this one is the same way.

Thanks
David "Tiny" Johnson
Parts to buy:
-Revised front A arms
-Rear upper link plastic ends
-Out drive cups Part# 87021
-White or Blue Spring Set
-Front CNC Aluminum Chassis Brace
-Wing Mount & Wing
-Either plastic shock parts or CNC Aluminum Shock Caps
-Elite RC Motor Mount if still available @ www.elitercd.com
-Lighter Sway Bars

Some of these parts are subjective depending on what size and surface track(s) you race at but these parts will find use asap and fix any premature parts that wear quickly or may break.
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:41 PM
  #1222  
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My H9e has been rock solid after the following mods :
- Hyper 8.5 upper A arms cut to fit
- Updated front A arms -ticker around hinge pin -original cracked open on first day out..noticed it during cleaning
- Front CNC Alu chassis brace - also found broken during cleaning after first day out..
- White springs set

and to add to ST-E guy's list
- Tekno mudguard to keep dirt out
- gradually cutting more and more out of the battery box as my ProMatch 4S are a real tight fit.

After running about every other week end since August, wear and tear items now includes center drive shaft, front diff case input drive cup (part #87021 to order from..Taiwan -special-rc on ebay- ) and front CVA dog bones.
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:50 PM
  #1223  
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Originally Posted by pascalfd View Post
My H9e has been rock solid after the following mods :
- Hyper 8.5 upper A arms cut to fit
- Updated front A arms -ticker around hinge pin -original cracked open on first day out..noticed it during cleaning
- Front CNC Alu chassis brace - also found broken during cleaning after first day out..
- White springs set

and to add to ST-E guy's list
- Tekno mudguard to keep dirt out
- gradually cutting more and more out of the battery box as my ProMatch 4S are a real tight fit.

After running about every other week end since August, wear and tear items now includes center drive shaft, front diff case input drive cup (part #87021 to order from..Taiwan -special-rc on ebay- ) and front CVA dog bones.
Man you and I are dead on with what we have experienced with our rigs. Mud guards, forgot about that one. I noticed my front plastic brace cracked as well after tearing her down. Sounds like our rigs are identical.

Happy racing!!
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Old 03-11-2010, 03:41 PM
  #1224  
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just ran my yesturday for the first time...love it! very 'pivot down the middle' balance this car has, perfect for tight clay tracks.
tekin 2650 combo
turnigy 35c 3s 5000
airtronics 94780 steering
and plan to get some jconcept gold compound barcodes.
Attached Thumbnails HoBao Hyper 9E thread-img_0106.jpg  
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Old 03-11-2010, 04:06 PM
  #1225  
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hi guys,took my 9e out today,it has a castle 2200 combo,was going great untill smoke started coming from the esc,then a flame,luckily put it out,only damage was esc,any ideas what could cause this?
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:20 PM
  #1226  
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Originally Posted by jon9e View Post
hi guys,took my 9e out today,it has a castle 2200 combo,was going great untill smoke started coming from the esc,then a flame,luckily put it out,only damage was esc,any ideas what could cause this?
Heat.

what's your gearing?

How the ESC mounted?
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Old 03-12-2010, 03:22 AM
  #1227  
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the gearing on my 9e is 15t pinion and the esc is sat on the chassis,emailed castle yesterday but not heard anything yet,
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:19 AM
  #1228  
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Originally Posted by jon9e View Post
the gearing on my 9e is 15t pinion and the esc is sat on the chassis,emailed castle yesterday but not heard anything yet,
That doesn't sound too high depending on the track. I have been told that putting the ESC on the chassis is too hard on them but mine is sitting under an SNR mount on four layers of silicone servo tape. I saw some dense foam insulating tape the other day at home depot and was thinking of trying it as a cussion
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by balistic View Post
That doesn't sound too high depending on the track. I have been told that putting the ESC on the chassis is too hard on them but mine is sitting under an SNR mount on four layers of silicone servo tape. I saw some dense foam insulating tape the other day at home depot and was thinking of trying it as a cussion
I got more radio tray if anyone need it.

40 buck free priority mail shipping.



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Old 03-12-2010, 11:49 AM
  #1230  
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my esc does sit on 2 sticky foam pads on the chassis,no vibrations at all,not happy at all.
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