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HoBao Hyper 9E thread

HoBao Hyper 9E thread

Old 02-24-2010, 04:29 PM
  #1186  
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nevermind

Last edited by Hoag-Dog; 02-27-2010 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:28 PM
  #1187  
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Hi Everyone,

Just wanted to give an update for all you 9E drivers..
The M-Blox has been modified on one side to accommodate smaller pinions(14T)

This mod was done a few weeks ago, so whoever ordered a mount from me should already have the updated M-Blox..
All motor mounts now will come with avid bearings



Not only do I try to make the best motor mounts I also include the best hardware! Bearings by Avid, screws by Tony's screws..

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Old 02-25-2010, 10:30 AM
  #1188  
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Originally Posted by longbill76 View Post
Hi Everyone,

Just wanted to give an update for all you 9E drivers..
The M-Blox has been modified on one side to accommodate smaller pinions(14T)

This mod was done a few weeks ago, so whoever ordered a mount from me should already have the updated M-Blox..
All motor mounts now will come with avid bearings



Not only do I try to make the best motor mounts I also include the best hardware! Bearings by Avid, screws by Tony's screws..

Dammm that a nice motor mount great job.

Last edited by snrscion; 02-25-2010 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:46 PM
  #1189  
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Would buying an elite rc mount eliminate the need to run a brace under the motor?
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:32 PM
  #1190  
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Originally Posted by cjcoffroad View Post
Would buying an elite rc mount eliminate the need to run a brace under the motor?
YES! You will get the best mesh possible..
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:03 AM
  #1191  
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Originally Posted by cjcoffroad View Post
Would buying an elite rc mount eliminate the need to run a brace under the motor?

Originally Posted by longbill76 View Post
YES! You will get the best mesh possible..

This doesn't make any sense to me? You don't "need" a brace under the motor in a 9e, in fact the only time I have stripped a motor screw was the first run after installing one. I don't run one and have no trouble with the stock mount or either of my motors.

The flex in the chassis is in front of the motor mount and the center diff is behind it so the mesh is constant with the stock parts.

I will run this mount because it makes it easier to set the mesh, has an extra bearing on the motor shaft and the ease of removing & installing the motor. There is also the bling factor but I never consider that in my decisions, it must perform better no matter how cool it looks.
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Old 02-27-2010, 06:49 AM
  #1192  
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Originally Posted by balistic View Post
This doesn't make any sense to me? You don't "need" a brace under the motor in a 9e, in fact the only time I have stripped a motor screw was the first run after installing one. I don't run one and have no trouble with the stock mount or either of my motors.

The flex in the chassis is in front of the motor mount and the center diff is behind it so the mesh is constant with the stock parts.

I will run this mount because it makes it easier to set the mesh, has an extra bearing on the motor shaft and the ease of removing & installing the motor. There is also the bling factor but I never consider that in my decisions, it must perform better no matter how cool it looks.
+1 I race on a budget so the convenience and appearance doesn't mean that much to me. For the cost of this I can buy two new sets of tires and that will make my buggy go faster.
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:54 AM
  #1193  
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speaking of bling factor and lower cg I just made a new radio tray to accomadate Tekin RX8.

Now taking order just pm me.

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Old 02-27-2010, 03:26 PM
  #1194  
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hi there balistic,when you say you dont need a motor support for the 9e,what motor do you run in yours because i have the castle 2200kv motor and it is a bit longer than the tekin motor.
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Old 02-27-2010, 05:36 PM
  #1195  
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Originally Posted by jon9e View Post
hi there balistic,when you say you dont need a motor support for the 9e,what motor do you run in yours because i have the castle 2200kv motor and it is a bit longer than the tekin motor.
I was running a 1700 tekin when I tried to run the support and stripped the bottom screw hole out. I have a 2650 mm in it now.

The question really is why do get the idea you need one? is something bending? Motor screws stripping?

I think the car needs to flex based on my experience driving mine. I even took the CNC diff bridge off and put the plastic one back on to let it flex more.
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Old 02-27-2010, 06:54 PM
  #1196  
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Originally Posted by balistic View Post
This doesn't make any sense to me? You don't "need" a brace under the motor in a 9e, in fact the only time I have stripped a motor screw was the first run after installing one. I don't run one and have no trouble with the stock mount or either of my motors.

The flex in the chassis is in front of the motor mount and the center diff is behind it so the mesh is constant with the stock parts.

I will run this mount because it makes it easier to set the mesh, has an extra bearing on the motor shaft and the ease of removing & installing the motor. There is also the bling factor but I never consider that in my decisions, it must perform better no matter how cool it looks.
I think you misunderstood me, the reason I said you get the best mesh is because you will, the stock mount is a split diff design, with the top half being plastic...since it is not a solid 1 piece design there is a lot of stress on the the lower half, the stress also affects the aluminum post which in many case snaps the post in half, if you order a replacement post from Ofna/nitrohouse they will send you the updated metal one instead of aluminum due to that issue....The reason I even made a mount for the 9E was because of all the problems it had, from having a horrendous time trying to adjust gear mesh, the cast aluminum that warps, to stripping screw holes on the bottom, & stress of using a truggy sized motors. I didn't plan on making a mount for the 9E it was the request from many, many users
that convinced me to make one...
Originally Posted by georgec View Post
+1 I race on a budget so the convenience and appearance doesn't mean that much to me. For the cost of this I can buy two new sets of tires and that will make my buggy go faster.
Good for you, my mounts were not meant for bling factor, people buy them for function and durability.. there are many options out there and people are free to buy whatever they like, I'm here to offer a product that I believe in which in some cases is not fit for everyone such as yourself..
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Old 02-27-2010, 07:29 PM
  #1197  
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Originally Posted by longbill76 View Post
I think you misunderstood me, the reason I said you get the best mesh is because you will, the stock mount is a split diff design, with the top half being plastic...since it is not a solid 1 piece design there is a lot of stress on the the lower half, the stress also affects the aluminum post which in many case snaps the post in half, if you order a replacement post from Ofna/nitrohouse they will send you the updated metal one instead of aluminum due to that issue....The reason I even made a mount for the 9E was because of all the problems it had, from having a horrendous time trying to adjust gear mesh, the cast aluminum that warps, to stripping screw holes on the bottom, & stress of using a truggy sized motors. I didn't plan on making a mount for the 9E it was the request from many, many users
that convinced me to make one...
I haven't had any of those problems. When I got mine two of the posts were severed and immediately replaced all three with steel. The motor mount was destroyed because of the movement so it was replaced too. Since then with the Tekin buggy motor and the MM 2650 no problems. It is too hard to change the motor though and setting the mesh is slow.

You think the upper front center diff bulkhead is letting the diff rise? Or just move back and forth?
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:12 PM
  #1198  
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Originally Posted by balistic View Post
I haven't had any of those problems. When I got mine two of the posts were severed and immediately replaced all three with steel. The motor mount was destroyed because of the movement so it was replaced too. Since then with the Tekin buggy motor and the MM 2650 no problems. It is too hard to change the motor though and setting the mesh is slow.

You think the upper front center diff bulkhead is letting the diff rise? Or just move back and forth?
Hey Ballistic, so you bought your 9E used?, and it came with the problems I mentioned right? As long as you replaced with the steel post it will hold up a bit better, but sooner or later something will give.. Just drive smoothly and you should be all good
The half plastic split diff design has movement back/forth, the center diff bearings will also be affected...
I'm not saying you'll definitely get those problems, I'm just speaking from experience, but if you're all good then stick with what you have..
Another thing to do is have a brace from the center diff to the radio tray, that's a major flex point..
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Old 02-27-2010, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by longbill76 View Post
Hey Ballistic, so you bought your 9E used?, and it came with the problems I mentioned right? As long as you replaced with the steel post it will hold up a bit better, but sooner or later something will give.. Just drive smoothly and you should be all good
The half plastic split diff design has movement back/forth, the center diff bearings will also be affected...
I'm not saying you'll definitely get those problems, I'm just speaking from experience, but if you're all good then stick with what you have..
Another thing to do is have a brace from the center diff to the radio tray, that's a major flex point..
I told you before I don't work in the winter so my racing budget was only enough to keep me racing. I am back to work next week and by the end of the month I should be able get your motor mount. I just didn't want to grind it myself, now that that is changed It's on my list.

My Car was Danny's from WCRC and it wasn't maintained very well. It was also the shop demo. I have replaced nearly everything but the chassis at this point. the next time I buy a car it will be new.

No I don't drive nice, im still learning what an 1/8th scale can and can't do. I do much better with the Hyper 10SC.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by balistic View Post
I told you before I don't work in the winter so my racing budget was only enough to keep me racing. I am back to work next week and by the end of the month I should be able get your motor mount. I just didn't want to grind it myself, now that that is changed It's on my list.

My Car was Danny's from WCRC and it wasn't maintained very well. It was also the shop demo. I have replaced nearly everything but the chassis at this point. the next time I buy a car it will be new.

No I don't drive nice, im still learning what an 1/8th scale can and can't do. I do much better with the Hyper 10SC.
No rush Balistic, whenever you're ready
I think it would've been cheaper if you bought a new 9E live & learn..
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