balistic

iTrader: (113)

Have you worked on a rear brace? I keep eating motor mounts and now with the SNR brace bending the bolts in the center to the battery box.

kufman

iTrader: (6)

Ya I have been thinking about that too. I would like to ditch the stock battery tray which will require the addition of some kind of rear/center brace. The new 4mm Bump edition chassis may also help the problem. I think the main problem with the rear is the junky motor plate and its mating diff support. Since there is a lot of load on those pieces, I don't think they should be 2 pieces. The Elite mount is nice, but I don't like the angled slide and it doesn't replace the nitro style rear diff mount. Stuff I need to think about.

reracer

iTrader: (4)

Since the Elite mount is one piece(where the bearing is), and it has such a wide base, it reduces a lot of the rear chassis flex just by itself. In my opinion though, you need to get rid of the plastic rear top brace/diff cover and use either to option one or the SNR one. One modification I would do to both, would be to countersink the screws. This further eliminates movement, and prevents even more shifting in this area.

flumpy

new member to the hyper 9e group, bought the rtr sadly an smoked the motor in a week. Am ready to order a rx8 to run 5000 40c an 5800 30c 4s batteries. My question is what motor would you pick for outdoor only tracks

thanks for the info

Cain

iTrader: (268)

1900Kv or 2050Kv work well on 4S .

Ezrem

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, 1900kv is fantastic on 4S, especially with the newest RX8 software.

Cain

iTrader: (268)

you also want the lower Kv to give you some gearing range as with the fatter motors I think the most you could fit gear wise was a 15T without modifying the motor can.

Kenton

What is everyone's favorite hop up / mod for your Hyper 9 E ?

I am too new to have one yet .

Cain

iTrader: (268)

I think my favorite was the tekno mud guards. Combine this with a nice snug body like the VE8 one and I really liked it. without the mud guards, on tracks where they would water all that crud would be all over the inside of the car.

To put it simply, if I was buying a Hyper 9E right now and was not savy to do it myself, I would not buy one that didn't not have the mudguard mod on it, unless I ran in purely dusty environment.

fallguy

iTrader: (3)

where is the delrin spur that was on nitro house before?

kufman

iTrader: (6)

Probably discontinued due to low sales (only a guess, I have really have no idea). At $30, it was too much for me to spend on a plastic gear. My modified Losi gear is still going strong.

reracer

iTrader: (4)

Discontinued because they melted. If you want a plastic spur(still trying to understand why anybody would) get the losi or the STRC SCRT10 spur. both require modification to work though.

fallguy

iTrader: (3)

i jsut like the low noise.. too bad they did not work out.

reracer

iTrader: (4)

Wear headphones, or go to a nitro track.

Blackcat

I can honestly say I've never experienced any problems with my 9e in this area. I'm still running the stock motor mount, battery tray, rear plastic brace, spur gear and diff mounting posts (silver/alu).

I've just installed the the Bump 4mm chassis and other bits to 'Bump up' my Hyper and have to agree with Cain the mud guards have been the best hop up for me. I run in the UK and the track I regularly race at is a mudbath so cleaning was always a major part of running any RC for me. The mudguards have eliminated any crud getting inside and a good close fitting body with velcro is a revelation to me, it has reduced my de-mudding time considerably.

The new chassis is brilliant too and I noticed an improvement in my driving immediately. It's almost like I have a new buggy but still retaining the best bits and characteristics of the old version 9e - Thanks Nitrohouse and Tim for sorting me out!