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Old 09-03-2009, 08:40 AM
  #316  
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Are there two different versions of the Hyper 9E? Meaning a HoBao version and an Ofna version? I've seen pictures that make me think that the Ofna has Crimefighter tires included, but there are other pics out there on some auction sites that don't look anything like Crimefighters.
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:52 AM
  #317  
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the ofna version they throw in the Ofna molded inserts, crimefighter M2 tires, and the Proline V2 rims. The one direct from overseas has there version of tires included. Go with the ofna version if you can as the stuff they use for tires is pretty good starting out.
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:16 AM
  #318  
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Originally Posted by Cain
the ofna version they throw in the Ofna molded inserts, crimefighter M2 tires, and the Proline V2 rims. The one direct from overseas has there version of tires included. Go with the ofna version if you can as the stuff they use for tires is pretty good starting out.
I had a feeling it was going to be something like that. Definitely not worth saving another 40-50 bucks then.
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:30 PM
  #319  
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Originally Posted by Cain
I use the following to find out what gearing I need:

scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html

the ratio for the Hyper 9E is 3.909

Could you help me fill in the blanks here so I calculate the speed properly:
Front/Rear Differential Gear Ratio: ?
Transmission Gear Ratio: ?
Additional Gear Ratio: 1
Spur Gear tooth count: 40
Pinion Gear tooth count: 15
Total battery voltage: 14.8
kv rating of brushless motor: 1900
Tire diameter in inches: ?


Gear initially for about 40 mph and work your way from there.

For most of the bigger can style motors like Tekin and Castle, about a 15T pinion is the smallest that can be fitted. But since these motors are quite resilent, just gear up as needed for speed, which is why you can go with lower KV motors.

I personally if I did the whole LiFE packs would probably still use the Tekin 1900Kv motor and just gear up a bit.

I would say you will not need the Novak 3 Pack for 12/13/14 pinions. See what you will need based on the gearing calculator above.

Assuming you already have a servo?
Correct. I have the Futaba S9156 Digital High-Torque Air Servo or a Ace R/C DS1015 Super Torque Digital Servo that I plan on using.

For hopups out of the box I would get these items:

- AnswerRC rear chassis brace (contact them for discount)
Is this the one you are referring to: answer-rc.com/product.php?id=Answer-RC Hyper 9 STS - Simplified Toe Sytsem Rear Higne Pin Plate&catid=34 ?
- Aluminum shock caps
www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMVU2&P=7 ?
- TKO Diff Orings (if yours is not updated)
Where can these be bought and how do I check if I have an old or new version?
- Hyper 8.5 upper A-arms (if old a-arms included)
Again. How do I check which version I have?

Thats pretty much it. For parts, probably order from special-RC on ebay as he seems to have the cheapest prices around.

What are you getting for spares?
What would you recommend? I usually read a lot and make decisions based on that but so far no one has recommended a list of spares that are good to have at hand on a racing day.


If you do go with the Rhino pack, let us know how it works out for you. I am just leary of using stuff from overseas like battery packs. I know people swear by the zippy stuff, but I have heard people swear at them too based on customer service and when they get in bad cells.
I will post an update once I get the car out on the track.
Comments above. Thanks for the detailed answer btw.

Last edited by thomatrix; 09-03-2009 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:36 PM
  #320  
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Front/Rear Differential Gear Ratio: 3.909
Transmission Gear Ratio: 1
Additional Gear Ratio: 1
Spur Gear tooth count: 40
Pinion Gear tooth count: 15
Total battery voltage: 14.8
kv rating of brushless motor: 1900
Tire diameter in inches: 4.5 (crimefighters)


Keep in mind the tekin 1900Kv seems to have more speed to it than the Kv lets on.
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
For hopups out of the box I would get these items:

- AnswerRC rear chassis brace (contact them for discount)
Is this the one you are referring to: answer-rc.com/product.php?id=Answer-RC Hyper 9 STS - Simplified Toe Sytsem Rear Higne Pin Plate&catid=34 ?
- Aluminum shock caps
www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMVU2&P=7 ?
- TKO Diff Orings (if yours is not updated)
Where can these be bought and how do I check if I have an old or new version?
- Hyper 8.5 upper A-arms (if old a-arms included)
Again. How do I check which version I have?

Thats pretty much it. For parts, probably order from special-RC on ebay as he seems to have the cheapest prices around.

What are you getting for spares?
What would you recommend? I usually read a lot and make decisions based on that but so far no one has recommended a list of spares that are good to have at hand on a racing day.
Thanks. If you have input for my remaining questions that would be great and get me closer to getting a full overview of the things I want to buy the first time around.
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:14 PM
  #322  
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Here are a few links for what you need:

1. Answer RC Rear hingepin brace (assuming in USA)

http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...products_id=96

2. Hyper 9E Alloy Shock Caps

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

3. TKO Orings

No longer made I guess. You can however just use black grease on the Orings for a better seal, thats what I did, still have the TKOs in my box.

I posted in this thread what are the new orings versus old, they are a different color, can recall off hand, but its in the thread.

4. Upper A-arms

Here you can see the new upper a-arms:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hyper-9-B-Versio...d=p3911.c0.m14

Personally, I would just do the Hyper 8.5 upper a-arm mod.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-OFNA-HYPER-8...3286.m20.l1116

Dirt cheap for them here. I bought several sets from him.


For spares, I would get the following:

- 2 sets Front upper and lower a-arms
- 1 set of front carriers
- 1 set of rear carriers
- 1 set of lower a-arms

I would also pickup some of the shock springs being used in some of the setups (blue soft?) The setups are in this thread.

Here is the spring stock number I believe:

OFN29111
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:26 PM
  #323  
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The new red diff o-rings are the same as the tko ones.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:45 AM
  #324  
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Managed to get to page 18... but now its bed time. Few quick questions though. The new Tekin motors seem to be having issues, and one guy had an ESC go out, this was a few months back, has Tekin started working out these bugs? And along those lines, will the Tekin truggy motors fit? Someone mentioned they wanted to try one of those to pull higher gearing. Also, people are saying to mod the upper a-arms to fix some issues with the lowers, but I read that there are updated a-arms available, do the updated arms not help? If they do, are they including them in kits now? (or at least will they when the old kits are sold) I've seen a few upgrade parts mentioned, but no one has mentioned any problem areas, unless I missed it somewhere, are there? One last thing, in the first few pages I seen a lot of guys saying good things about this buggy, but their signatures mention all the other cars they drive and no mention of the 9e, and Cain's says he is selling his. What is up with that, did you guys dump the buggy, or is there other reasons? lol

This buggy looks great and it is really tempting me away from a new truggy. Has anyone here ever converted an old buggy into a short truggy? I would like to know their opinions on the project. Like I said if I got the 9e, my Hyper 7 will get the treatment. If not. can someone point me to a thread that has info on that?

I checked my gearing options with the 1900kv and A123 style packs. It seems an 18 tooth will get me 38.5mph and a 16 around 34mph, so I'm thinking of running 16. My friend's Nue 1515 1Y 2200kv seems to get pretty hot when running 18+ pinions. If the truggy motors fit, I will go with the 18 tooth, because it should still stay within a good heat range.
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Old 09-04-2009, 05:12 AM
  #325  
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Didn't see where Cain mentioned he's selling his...
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:43 AM
  #326  
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Finally I've got to the end of this thread... It's seems to be an overall liking to this buggy. I also am in the market for a e buggy and trying to get a sense of a decent one. Other than the body being an issue and no mudguards, is there any other major complaints? Also has anyone ran the SP 1/8 combo on this buggy. I have the SP combo and yet to run it as I had to return it after I bought it awhile back. Now its still in the package brand new! I know that these systems are also having problems. But I do have the MMM motor and esc from my e-revo. Has anyone tried the same motor and esc? If so what do you think and what gearing have you tried?

Thanks for any input!
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:02 AM
  #327  
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Originally Posted by marine6680
Managed to get to page 18... but now its bed time. Few quick questions though. The new Tekin motors seem to be having issues, and one guy had an ESC go out, this was a few months back, has Tekin started working out these bugs? And along those lines, will the Tekin truggy motors fit? Someone mentioned they wanted to try one of those to pull higher gearing. Also, people are saying to mod the upper a-arms to fix some issues with the lowers, but I read that there are updated a-arms available, do the updated arms not help? If they do, are they including them in kits now? (or at least will they when the old kits are sold) I've seen a few upgrade parts mentioned, but no one has mentioned any problem areas, unless I missed it somewhere, are there? One last thing, in the first few pages I seen a lot of guys saying good things about this buggy, but their signatures mention all the other cars they drive and no mention of the 9e, and Cain's says he is selling his. What is up with that, did you guys dump the buggy, or is there other reasons? lol

This buggy looks great and it is really tempting me away from a new truggy. Has anyone here ever converted an old buggy into a short truggy? I would like to know their opinions on the project. Like I said if I got the 9e, my Hyper 7 will get the treatment. If not. can someone point me to a thread that has info on that?

I checked my gearing options with the 1900kv and A123 style packs. It seems an 18 tooth will get me 38.5mph and a 16 around 34mph, so I'm thinking of running 16. My friend's Nue 1515 1Y 2200kv seems to get pretty hot when running 18+ pinions. If the truggy motors fit, I will go with the 18 tooth, because it should still stay within a good heat range.
Let me respond to you in a yes for the car, it has a very good feel out of the box when you drive it, it's like you barely need to do changes on the car from the start. It handled better than my gas car right at the start and have made small changes from indoor to outdoor tracks to make it work and it's mostly batter placement, the car will come with the older front and lower arms but the replacement parts will be current running changes that will beef up the suspension the lower arms for replacement a 4th gen and our working great, the upper arm is a 2nd gen and that has helped alot but I did do one to further up the durabilty and that was to get a longer upper turnbukle for the upper arm from our part number 36861 they will work with the new upper arm and will fill in the small gap inside the arm, but if your track is not too big then these changes will not be nessc. it's the big tracks that need the beefing up, as for motor I have the Tekin with the 2650 there is so much power to the wheels that only a big track like Revelation can use it all for a small it has been tough so I'm looking to go a lesser KV motor to smooth it out, it fits without a problem but you do need to put some sort of support for the motor from under so the motor does not flex from consistant chassis slaps it will losen you motor mount screw or worse tweak you motor mount( Rev. gets alot of things figured out quickly).
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:03 PM
  #328  
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Originally Posted by veecee
Didn't see where Cain mentioned he's selling his...
Correct, this isn't for sale, just the GV2T truck since we run a combined 1/10 2wd class.

Originally Posted by tom2tone
Finally I've got to the end of this thread... It's seems to be an overall liking to this buggy. I also am in the market for a e buggy and trying to get a sense of a decent one. Other than the body being an issue and no mudguards, is there any other major complaints? Also has anyone ran the SP 1/8 combo on this buggy. I have the SP combo and yet to run it as I had to return it after I bought it awhile back. Now its still in the package brand new! I know that these systems are also having problems. But I do have the MMM motor and esc from my e-revo. Has anyone tried the same motor and esc? If so what do you think and what gearing have you tried?

Thanks for any input!
I had the SP combo in the vehicle, and for the time it ran, it was very good, but, it failed and I had to replace it with my MMM setup. You can fit the Neu 2200Kv castle motor (I thikn that comes in your e-revo too), but gearing I think is limited to at the smallest a 15T pinion. But, the truggy sized motor should do better with temps, so it should be fine I think. Do the low wire mod and you will be all set.

I think as a benefit for mounting the motor, you should make sure and use some washers under the screws that hold the motor to the mount. This really helped a lot in my case, no movement.
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Old 09-04-2009, 03:07 PM
  #329  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Correct, this isn't for sale, just the GV2T truck since we run a combined 1/10 2wd class.
I just read it wrong, oops. Good to hear. Yeah this car is tempting.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:24 PM
  #330  
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Also, I saw someone mention the difference between green and blue locktight. The green is meant to be used on screws already assembled and tightened. NEVER use it like you would blue locktight, you will have problems. I ran out of blue once and just used some green I had sitting around. Man, when it came time to do a teardown, I had nothing but trouble. Five or more screws had to be cut/drilled/vice gripped out, the rest all had to be replaced due to the damage from all the torque I had to use to get them out. So if you use it on the motor shaft, you should have little problem with pinions coming off, plus the heat from the motor should make it easier to remove later.

One good use for the green locktight is to help hold in screws going into plastic when the threads start to wear out from repeated dis-assembly. It is also good for quick, temporary repairs if you do strip out a plastic part. It isn't permanent, but it will help get you through the day. Just put some on the threads and inside the screw hole and get the screw as tight as you can then let it dry.

Anyone have feedback for my idea on converting my old Hyper 7 buggy to truggy?

Also, I'm torn between the Tekin 1700kv truggy (with 18t) and 1900kv (with 16) buggy motor.
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