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HoBao Hyper 9E thread

HoBao Hyper 9E thread

Old 12-29-2010, 09:46 PM
  #3151  
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OK....so I have been doing a lot of reading in this thread....And it prompted me to put my Tekno Losi 8E 2.0 with 4s lipo and MMM 2200 on a scale. 3800 grams!

So, I am looking to possibly switch to the OFNA 9E for next season. You guys have a lot more experience with this car than me so I am asking for some assistance.

Let's assume you have a brand new 9E sitting in front of you and you want to build the lightest, strongest, most badass raceworthy e-buggy ever.....What would you need to do if money was not an object (within reason)

From what I read, the Matrix carbon stuff is out of production for a little while. I would prefer to stay on 4s and use the MMM speed controller. I had very good power in my Losi, but that was pushing 3800 grams around, so I would not object to a less powerful (and lighter!) motor.

So let me hear your ideas! I want to get building in the next month or so...

**Totally unrelated question - OFNA does not have a race truggy other than the Jammin one? Why? They have a dozen buggies listed on their website, but only the jammin truggy for all out racing?

Thanks for the help and sorry if some of you guys need to repost things that were already posted.
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Old 12-29-2010, 10:21 PM
  #3152  
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
3S might be more suitable for your 2650....For a 4S set-up your looking for 1800-1900kv range.
I run a 2250kv motor on 4s and love it.Its quick, never gets too hot,
the pinion I run is a 16 tooth and has plenty of legs.Everyone at my local track has the 9e and we all run pretty much the same setups with batteries,motors and etc.
I have though tried a 6s and the thing hoots like a bat out of hell and can only get 1/4 throttle down the main straight and from stand still to full throttle does back flips.LOL
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:31 AM
  #3153  
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Originally Posted by dumper View Post
OK....so I have been doing a lot of reading in this thread....And it prompted me to put my Tekno Losi 8E 2.0 with 4s lipo and MMM 2200 on a scale. 3800 grams!

So, I am looking to possibly switch to the OFNA 9E for next season. You guys have a lot more experience with this car than me so I am asking for some assistance.

Let's assume you have a brand new 9E sitting in front of you and you want to build the lightest, strongest, most badass raceworthy e-buggy ever.....What would you need to do if money was not an object (within reason)

From what I read, the Matrix carbon stuff is out of production for a little while. I would prefer to stay on 4s and use the MMM speed controller. I had very good power in my Losi, but that was pushing 3800 grams around, so I would not object to a less powerful (and lighter!) motor.

So let me hear your ideas! I want to get building in the next month or so...

**Totally unrelated question - OFNA does not have a race truggy other than the Jammin one? Why? They have a dozen buggies listed on their website, but only the jammin truggy for all out racing?

Thanks for the help and sorry if some of you guys need to repost things that were already posted.

Its the Tekno that's making the losi So heavy. My Matrix losi is in the range of 3400 or 7lbs 10oz


Ofna and Jammin are related but not really, The reason they only have the Jammin Truggy listed is because the Ofna Hyper ST was a Flop and right around the time the X2 Eventually made it to the market (after being pushed back near a Year +) All the other brands had Already stepped it up and came out with their own new versions. At the Same time the Owner of Jammin products, Jammin Jay was busy racing his Full Size offroad car and promoting the Jammin 1/10 Short course. I honestly dont see Jammin entering the 1/8 game ever again, They have lost their MAIN driver Chad Bradley to JQ and if you take notice at the big races, there's normally no more then a few Jammins being ran in comparison to say Losi of Kyosho or AE.


For a Motor ESC combo, your 2200 will be alittle over kill. On 4S your looking in the range of 1700-1900kv, You'll be able to gear your 2200 but it'll be Faaaast regardless of what gearing you run. I would suggest lookin at Castle's 1800kv.

I should be talking to Robert in the next few days to get an update on what's what.
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:17 AM
  #3154  
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Originally Posted by shano83 View Post
I run a 2250kv motor on 4s and love it.Its quick, never gets too hot,
the pinion I run is a 16 tooth and has plenty of legs.Everyone at my local track has the 9e and we all run pretty much the same setups with batteries,motors and etc.
I have though tried a 6s and the thing hoots like a bat out of hell and can only get 1/4 throttle down the main straight and from stand still to full throttle does back flips.LOL
I am going to try gearing the 2650 down on 4s and see how it works. The deal is I have 2s and 4s batteries and I would like for this to work without having to buy a different voltage battery. I have a 15t pinion that I am sure will be too fast but when I get the buggy and have the motor mounted I will see how much smaller I can go.
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:44 AM
  #3155  
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Here is My Hyper 9E, starting set up and some helpful Team Tip's from DJ.


Basics:

Hyper 9E
Castle 2200 Kv
4s



Upgrades:

OFN28208 CNC shock caps
OFN29148 CNC spring retainer
OFN29147 CNC rear upright
OFN29331 CNC chassis brace
OFN10994 serrated wheel nuts
Tekno mud guards
Snr chassis bracew/esc plate




Setup:
Front
7K Ofna
45wt Losi
Silver Xray spring
0 Toe
0 Camber
Arms just below level
All other setting stock from box

Center
7K Ofna

Rear
5K Ofna
40wt Losi
Silver Xray spring
0 Camber
CVA's level
All other setting stock from box


Team tips:

-Trim the nose piece of body to allow for easier access to sway bar and give sway bar clearance(pic below)

-Use reverse thread screws(OFN28208) on front lower shock to prevent back out.(pic below)

- Use 3x6 cap head scres in front C knuckle to prevent oversteer which will cause CVA to pop out when landing and turning at the same time.(pic below)

-Boil you wing, this will help keep them from breaking.

-Drill your top plate and run a longer screw with a locknut for the front body post, this will prevent it from backing out during a race and finishing like an aligator.(pic below)

-Run foam under the motor to take stress off motor mount and screws(pic below)
Attached Thumbnails HoBao Hyper 9E thread-012.jpg   HoBao Hyper 9E thread-011.jpg   HoBao Hyper 9E thread-010.jpg   HoBao Hyper 9E thread-008.jpg  

Last edited by HYPERBOY; 12-30-2010 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:06 PM
  #3156  
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Originally Posted by HYPERBOY View Post
Here is My Hyper 9E, starting set up and some helpful Team Tip's from DJ.


Basics:

Hyper 9E
Castle 2200 Kv
4s



Upgrades:

OFN28208 CNC shock caps
OFN29148 CNC spring retainer
OFN29147 CNC rear upright
OFN29331 CNC chassis brace
OFN10994 serrated wheel nuts
Tekno mud guards
Snr chassis bracew/esc plate




Setup:
Front
7K Ofna
45wt Losi
Silver Xray spring
0 Toe
0 Camber
Arms just below level
All other setting stock from box

Center
7K Ofna

Rear
5K Ofna
40wt Losi
Silver Xray spring
0 Camber
CVA's level
All other setting stock from box


Team tips:

-Trim the nose piece of body to allow for easier access to sway bar and give sway bar clearance(pic below)

-Use reverse thread screws(OFN28208) on front lower shock to prevent back out.(pic below)

- Use 3x6 cap head scres in front C knuckle to prevent oversteer which will cause CVA to pop out when landing and turning at the same time.(pic below)

-Boil you wings, this will help keep them from breaking.

-Drill your top plate and run a longer screw with a locknut for the front body post, this will prevent it from backing out during a race and finishing like an aligator.(pic below)

-Run foam under the motor to take stress off motor mount and screws(pic below)
Also on the front shocks the rubber bushing starts to blow out after some front crashes so i place a washer on the shock post to prevent the shock from overlaping the shock post. Your bushing will last you forever.

When getting a new kit the steering knuckle screws still have oil on the so they don't rust so no matter how much your tighten them, they will back out, so I take them out and shoot them with break cleaner, let dry and put blue lock-tite, they will stay together alot longer I also do this with our pinions for the set screws they will be oiled in the bag. If you don't spray off the oil they will surely back real quick.

And Hyperboy doesn't have them on yet but I use the 36861 tierod on the upper arms for better durablility for those big jumps, they fill the arm better and are 8mm longer in the arm and fill the gap in the upper arm, less stress cracking and if crack will mostlikely stay together to finish a race and not know it was craked.
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:27 PM
  #3157  
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All I run in my 9E is a Tekin 2050/RX8 combo and a 3S Lipo. I most-often run my car at Indy RC World in Garland, Texas, which is an indoor clay track that measures 140'x80'. Most of the fast guys there only run 3S in their cars, because you can't get much lighter than 3S, and that's all the power you need for a track that size.

My car is basically stock, with the B-version rear end, the outer wall cut off the battery tray, and the radio box removed, and it weighs either 7.5 lb with a Venom 3S 5400mAh Lipo, or 7.6 lb with a Turnigy Nano-Tech 3S 6000mAh Lipo. I typically get 12 minutes out of the Venom packs, and 14 from the Nano-Tech, at racing speed. Sure, I can run 4S if I need extra grunt and speed at a bigger track. But I like how the car is easier to drive with 3S. 3S packs are also cheaper than 4S, and generally take up less space. You don't need as much wattage to charge them, too.
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:09 PM
  #3158  
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Thanks a lot guys! So I can get a reference where I should start, what pinion/spur are you running on 3s?
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:05 PM
  #3159  
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Originally Posted by wjmiller3 View Post
Thanks a lot guys! So I can get a reference where I should start, what pinion/spur are you running on 3s?
If you're going to use the Castle 2650 on 3S, I think I remember either 14 or 15T to be optimal. Just go to your track and put in some hard, race-pace laps and see how well the motor is handling the pinion.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by tq_danpatterson View Post
If you're going to use the Castle 2650 on 3S, I think I remember either 14 or 15T to be optimal. Just go to your track and put in some hard, race-pace laps and see how well the motor is handling the pinion.
remember though the driveshaft will rub on the motor if you use a 14 or 15.i used a robinson racing one and think it was 17t.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:54 PM
  #3161  
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Originally Posted by HYPERBOY View Post
Here is My Hyper 9E, starting set up and some helpful Team Tip's from DJ.


Basics:

Hyper 9E
Castle 2200 Kv
4s



Upgrades:

OFN28208 CNC shock caps
OFN29148 CNC spring retainer
OFN29147 CNC rear upright
OFN29331 CNC chassis brace
OFN10994 serrated wheel nuts
Tekno mud guards
Snr chassis bracew/esc plate




Setup:
Front
7K Ofna
45wt Losi
Silver Xray spring
0 Toe
0 Camber
Arms just below level
All other setting stock from box

Center
7K Ofna

Rear
5K Ofna
40wt Losi
Silver Xray spring
0 Camber
CVA's level
All other setting stock from box


Team tips:

-Trim the nose piece of body to allow for easier access to sway bar and give sway bar clearance(pic below)

-Use reverse thread screws(OFN28208) on front lower shock to prevent back out.(pic below)

- Use 3x6 cap head scres in front C knuckle to prevent oversteer which will cause CVA to pop out when landing and turning at the same time.(pic below)

-Boil you wing, this will help keep them from breaking.

-Drill your top plate and run a longer screw with a locknut for the front body post, this will prevent it from backing out during a race and finishing like an aligator.(pic below)

-Run foam under the motor to take stress off motor mount and screws(pic below)


Good info. James, the pictures are about worthless though as some are
blury & their to small to see anything...Nice try though...

Also I don't understand what the 3X6 cap screws do or where you put
them in the C hubs...

Thanks for the part numbers for the hop ups. Tim Bump told me when
I ordered my Hyper 9 that no hop ups were needed for the buggy as
it is bullet proof right out of the box. I hope he was right because I'm
racing at two tracks this weekend for the first runs on my new buggy
& no one has parts for the Hyper 9 anywhere I race...

I didn't like the looks of the plastic shock caps but Tim claims they
don't break...We'll see...
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:58 PM
  #3162  
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Originally Posted by Chuck 21 View Post
Thanks for the part numbers for the hop ups. Tim Bump told me when
I ordered my Hyper 9 that no hop ups were needed for the buggy as
it is bullet proof right out of the box. I hope he was right because I'm
racing at two tracks this weekend for the first runs on my new buggy
& no one has parts for the Hyper 9 anywhere I race...

I didn't like the looks of the plastic shock caps but Tim claims they
don't break...We'll see...
I have not broken anything on my 9E in two months of ownership and plenty of bad crashes. I have, however, bent the stock center driveshaft, one of the front driveshafts, and the rear hub hinge pins. But, I simply bent them back, and all was well again. As long as your buggy isn't a pig, it should hold up just fine.
(Although I do have the CNC shock caps installed on my buggy).
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Old 12-31-2010, 06:12 AM
  #3163  
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Originally Posted by kman16jr View Post
remember though the driveshaft will rub on the motor if you use a 14 or 15.i used a robinson racing one and think it was 17t.
I installed a 14t and there is just enough clearance for light to pass through between the motor and the drive cup on the center driveshaft with the 2650. I did a few laps in the yard last night after I got everything running, and it looks like there may have been a little rubbing. I may pull the motor back out and smooth out the cooling fins in that area.

My other truck is a Slash 4x4, and the quality of this buggy is not even in the same league. I cant wait till I get to go to the track!
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Old 12-31-2010, 05:13 PM
  #3164  
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Default Question for you race savy guys

The tracks I visit with my 9E are tight, technical but very loose and dry. (my schedual doesn't permit club racing so the track is rarely prepped when I have time to go)
My question is; My diffs are now filled with 7k Front 10K Center 3K rear and it handles and puts the power down pretty good but I feel it could be better.

Off power steering is fab, front diff doesnt excessively unload, rear seems planted. running white springs F&R. Power is M.M.M./1700kv 1512NEU, 4s 40C 4000mah packs. Extremely effecient set up that yields 15+minute run times of hard driving.

I'd like little better on power steering if possible ?
Any diff viscosity changes or any other suggestions to possibly make it better ????
Thanks in advance !
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:41 AM
  #3165  
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I went to Mikes in Houston yesterday and ran about 6 packs of 4s through the 9E for the fist time. Wow! If I was buying lipos from start I prabably would go 3s, but since I already have two 4s lipos I think I will stick with that. It was getting to top speed on the straight with the 4s with the 14t just about the time I had to get on the brake. And there was nothing there yesterday that could pass me in the straight. Being my first outing with a 1/8 buggy I could not keep up very well with the seasoned guys after that, but it was fun! And I found out loctite is worth its weight in gold!

Neither of the hobby shops here on the north side of Houston carry Ofna parts, and Tower doesn't really either. So do you buy parts straight from Ofna or is there a better online place? Thanks
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