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HoBao Hyper 9E thread

HoBao Hyper 9E thread

Old 10-31-2010, 02:22 AM
  #2836  
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For those of you who ask, "What body will fit my 9e and allow me to use Velcro to secure it?" Here is proof of the nitro version Hyper 9's Proline body fitting well on my 9e with Tekno RC mud guards.




Pretty in pink, baby.
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Old 10-31-2010, 08:32 AM
  #2837  
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Originally Posted by tq_danpatterson View Post
Good point. No, I did not weigh the stock drive cup which has to go along with the stock dog bone. 19 grams is the weight of the shaft alone. The 56 gram weight of the universal includes everything.
I'll bet that the drive cup will nearly even things up.
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tq_danpatterson View Post
For those of you who ask, "What body will fit my 9e and allow me to use Velcro to secure it?" Here is proof of the nitro version Hyper 9's Proline body fitting well on my 9e with Tekno RC mud guards.




Pretty in pink, baby.
Nice paint job. I like the color scheme.
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by spunkysandoval View Post
Nice paint job. I like the color scheme.
Thanks Isaac.

The setup I have in my 9e now is amazing. Tekin 2050 combo, 17/40 gearing, Venom 3S 5.4Ah 20C LiPo. I tested it for the first time today at my small, local track, which is quite un-maintained due to lack of a racing scene around here. It's half grass, and half hard-packed dirt with sand on top.

I ran for 14 minutes and 35 seconds, all flat-out, racing speed, with four or five stops to flip the car onto it's wheels or take temperatures. I stopped a few moments before the LVC would have kicked in. Speed and punch were ballistic; I'd estimate I had enough speed to be competitive on a track with a 130-ft straightaway. And best of all were the running temps.

At the end of the run, with one large cooling hole cut in the front windshield and no fan on the ESC or motor, my temps were as follows:
Motor - 160
ESC - 140
Battery - 120

Car weight is 3332g (119oz) with this setup.

I found my battery drain to be 4533mA upon recharging. That translates to about 312mA/minute of usage.

I'm also looking forward to Wes of Out Front Frames, the man who cut the carbon fiber shock towers and mud guards for my buggy, to become able to mold carbon fiber in his workshop. He said he would have that ability in a couple of months. I can't wait to be the first to run an Out Front Frames carbon fiber 9e chassis. Going by the approximate weight difference between the Matrix Concepts carbon fiber chassis versus the stock one (that figure being a 40% reduction), replacing the stock chassis with a carbon fiber one will bring my total weight down to 3208.8g.

I was running a set of M3 Revolvers, and hook-up was very good for the grass/sandy surface. They had about 75% tread remaining when I started the run. This brings up another wonderful aspect about this setup: there was visually no wear on the tires after the run. Having such little tire wear means less money chewed away, and more races to go to on less cash.

The Hyper 9e and Tekin RX8 together is by far my favorite 1/8th-scale e-buggy setup so far.

Last edited by tq_danpatterson; 11-01-2010 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:15 AM
  #2840  
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Man, bummer to hear that your racing scene is not that great. I'm lucky as hell to have two of the nations best tracks within 30 minutes of my house. West Coast RC and Orange County RC are both indoor clay tracks that have tons and tons of racing. If only I had more time to get to the track. I miss racing the 9e!! I want to set a day aside from my next round of days off and try to dial in the rear suspension on the buggy. I'm currently running the OG rear arms that have the bend in them. I want to switch over to the b type arms and see if it makes a noticeable difference on my track.

Anyone have any knowledge about the differences in handling between the A Type and B Type rear arms?

I already have the B Type compatible rear shock tower and arms and will try to see if I notice a difference in how the buggy handles.

Thanks,

Isaac
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by spunkysandoval View Post
Man, bummer to hear that your racing scene is not that great. I'm lucky as hell to have two of the nations best tracks within 30 minutes of my house. West Coast RC and Orange County RC are both indoor clay tracks that have tons and tons of racing. If only I had more time to get to the track. I miss racing the 9e!! I want to set a day aside from my next round of days off and try to dial in the rear suspension on the buggy. I'm currently running the OG rear arms that have the bend in them. I want to switch over to the b type arms and see if it makes a noticeable difference on my track.

Anyone have any knowledge about the differences in handling between the A Type and B Type rear arms?

I already have the B Type compatible rear shock tower and arms and will try to see if I notice a difference in how the buggy handles.

Thanks,

Isaac
I would call NitroHouse and ask to talk to Tim Bump about that. I have a set of the angled arms, but have not run them; don't see any reason to.

PS- Didn't mean to call you Kevin. Got my names mixed up.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:50 PM
  #2842  
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After fiddling with the body I cannot believe how bad it fits, the spring clips do nothing to firmly attach the body to the posts, and the one inch gap on each side doesnt help either.

If I would have cut the body, I would have made the post holes smaller and the holes for the clips lower and not eccentric.

Also spent about two hours trying to remodel a Kyosho plastic 44T spur, finally after intense lathing the spur fits like a glove on the diff housing, however the back of the spur hits the motor mount, if it was only 0.5 - 1mm thinner it would be a perfect fit.
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:44 AM
  #2843  
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Originally Posted by vic viper View Post
After fiddling with the body I cannot believe how bad it fits, the spring clips do nothing to firmly attach the body to the posts, and the one inch gap on each side doesnt help either.

If I would have cut the body, I would have made the post holes smaller and the holes for the clips lower and not eccentric.

Also spent about two hours trying to remodel a Kyosho plastic 44T spur, finally after intense lathing the spur fits like a glove on the diff housing, however the back of the spur hits the motor mount, if it was only 0.5 - 1mm thinner it would be a perfect fit.
Mount Tekno RC mud guards to your chassis and use the nitro Hyper 9's Proline body, like I did.
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Old 11-02-2010, 02:58 AM
  #2844  
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Yep I fitted the Tekno guards yesterday, tried to heat and bend the rear part so I was able to fit the third screw as well, didnt get a perfect result but its there with three screws at least

Guess I have to get that Proline body, looks really great, but it would be even nicer without the embossing ..

EDIT, crap, seems like the only aftermarket body available here is the JConcepts, is that body as snug as the Proline?, they look really similar.
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:17 AM
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Hi peoples, just got my hyper9e in the box, went through the instructions and it only walks you through a kit build up!, my question is do i need to disassemble the car and put oil in the diffs or does it come factory done or just grease like my hyper10sc?

If it does need a tear down and oils what do you recommend (this is my first buggy) the manual says 5,3,1 is this ok?, i'm only bashing with this buggy and running a cc 2200kv/mmm esc.

thanks
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:21 AM
  #2846  
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Default Your First Race Roller.

You sure bought a great buggy- Thats for sure. Congratulations on the Purchase of your first race roller. This buggy comes with all the diff oils already in the diffs. I run 5k in the front, 3k in the middle, and 2k in the rear diff. All Losi diff fluids. But if you're not racing the buggy, you may wish to run the Hyper 9E with the stock diff fluids.

Also, I highly recommend the new Steel Universal Center Drive Shaft. It's much stronger than the stock aluminum center drive shaft. It's also slightly shorter than the stock aluminum drive shaft as well- which will help prevent or even eliminate the problem of bending your center drive shaft, which many on this thread have experienced with the stock Aluminum center drive shaft- especially when the chassis would flex under extreem conditions. NitroHouse has these Universal drive shafts in stock. And Ofna also offers a non-metal, Derlin 42Tooth Spur Gear which will make your Hyper 9E super Quiet

Enjoy Your Awesome Buggy


Originally Posted by Jpm1 View Post
Hi peoples, just got my hyper9e in the box, went through the instructions and it only walks you through a kit build up!, my question is do i need to disassemble the car and put oil in the diffs or does it come factory done or just grease like my hyper10sc?

If it does need a tear down and oils what do you recommend (this is my first buggy) the manual says 5,3,1 is this ok?, i'm only bashing with this buggy and running a cc 2200kv/mmm esc.

thanks
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:34 AM
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Thanks for that Mindthoughts, I'll leave the diffs as standard and go from there, I will look into the steel driveshafts aswell, I bought the derlin spur gear with the kit so am sorted there, also bought some alloy braces for it so might stop the chassis flex and save the driveshaft, not sure, anyway have to put it together and go play, also have to work out how to glue the ofna road Tyres to the wheels, they came with strange foams that I haven't used before!!! Which one or both do I use and do I need to shorten the wide foam cause I can't seem to fit it all in the tyre???

Sorry for more questions....
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Old 11-02-2010, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by vic viper View Post
EDIT, crap, seems like the only aftermarket body available here is the JConcepts, is that body as snug as the Proline?, they look really similar.
Where do you mean, "here"? Your best source for 9e parts is NitroHouse. Behold:

http://www.nitrohouse.com/Car-Hop-Up...duct_info.html
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Old 11-02-2010, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Jpm1 View Post
If it does need a tear down and oils what do you recommend (this is my first buggy) the manual says 5,3,1 is this ok?, i'm only bashing with this buggy and running a cc 2200kv/mmm esc.

thanks
With the extra weight of a (suspected) 4S MMM 2200 setup, I'd go with at least 5K in the center diff. Lighter fluids will get destroyed more quickly with that massive motor. I would also recommend 100% punch control, low starting power, and normal timing.
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by tq_danpatterson View Post
Where do you mean, "here"? Your best source for 9e parts is NitroHouse. Behold:

http://www.nitrohouse.com/Car-Hop-Up...duct_info.html


"Here" is in Sweden
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