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HoBao Hyper 9E thread

HoBao Hyper 9E thread

Old 07-28-2010, 07:59 PM
  #2071  
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My mom just dropped off my esc tray,and wow!this thing looks awesome.Here are some pics.Thanks bigtime steve,deeply apreciated.

Last edited by kman16jr; 06-20-2011 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:19 PM
  #2072  
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Default 1409 1Y 3600kv on 2s. 15T and 43T Losi Plastic Spur(Requires Modifications).

Originally Posted by supafastsupra2 View Post
Mindthoughts, the BEC voltage is adjustable on the MMP with the castlelink software. Its best to keep it around 5.5 to 6.0 volts from my experimentation to try and eliminate the glitching.IT is the current or amperage that decreases with voltage, because a switching bec works by simply switching a circuit closed and open at a certain frequency so the average voltage is wbhatever your selected output voltage becomes. As you go up in input voltage this switching frequency must also increase to compensate, resulting in less amperage since there's less "on" time. It also doesn't help that my tekno 8ight is a cow with the whole bec situation. My question on temperature was to the person who linked the one cell version of the MMP without a fan. Also my reference to the cc/neu 1400 series was for anyone else who was going to try your setup as a heads up to a more practical option. The 1400 series do have the same rotor as the 1500 but with compacted stator windings so they are a bit less efficient, heat up more than their larger diameter counterparts. For a light buggy such as yours it will be fine but I believe the best option is either a longer 36mm neu or simply the 40mm 1509-1512 motors. I like what you've done with your hyper and the 2s setup but for the vast majority I still see 3s and 4s setups as a better option. A higher voltage setup with a proportionally less capacitive battery will alway be more efficient.

If I made any grammatical errors or just plain stupid sounding sentences its because I'm typing via my phone, ill get back to it when I get a chance. Cheers.

Thank you for this information. And though I like my setup with the 1409 1Y Steve Nue motor. I'm very open to, and interested in experimenting and testing the newer 1400 and 1500 series motors castle will begin to stock. I do like the idea of ordering a motor that will arrive in a few days, rather than 6 to 8 weeks. But I can say with certainty, it was worth the wait for the Nue 1409 1Y 3600kv motor. I will soon test this motor with a 3cell and my just recieved 9tooth Pinion gear, and super silent 43tooth Plastic Losi Spur Gear. I'm very very interested in this gearing with a 3cell 50c 5200 Thunder Power LiPo. That's going to be allot of power. I'll keep you posted.

PS. I've already run this motor with the 3cell and a 12tooth Pinion and 43tooth Spur gear, but the buggy had way to much top speed and was running at about 170 degrees. I'd like a little lower temperature, and about 20 Percent less top speed. A reduction of 3teeth in the Pinion gear should get me close to what I need. With the new layout, I've not yet tried, I will have to see what the track demands of the Buggy. I will set up motor, gearing and suspension according to the tracks parameters.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:23 PM
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Default snrscion- Lets get down and boogie. aka Rocking and Rolling.

Originally Posted by snrscion View Post
You are absolutely right.
Steve, I should be at West Coast RC Raceway this Saturday.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kman16jr View Post
My mom just dropped off my esc tray,and wow!this thing looks awesome.Here are some pics.Thanks bigtime steve,deeply apreciated.
NO NO thank you for buying my products.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:42 PM
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Steve dont you make a top plate or something for the hyper 9e that should help from bending the center drive shaft?
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by T4 Razer View Post
Steve dont you make a top plate or something for the hyper 9e that should help from bending the center drive shaft?
Yes I do.



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Old 07-29-2010, 12:18 AM
  #2077  
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Default Hyper 9E Set Up.

Originally Posted by intense82 View Post
Mindthoughts,
Can you post the whole setup of your Hyper 9 (diff oil, shocks setup, arm, toe in F/R, squat, shocks fixing hubs, ..) ?
Thank you
Please refer to this link, and this will give us a basis for language between us with set up and placement of shocks and other set-up specifics.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/ar...articles_id=29

Front End:
-Upper front shock hole location. Hole Number 2. (always refer to link above).

-Inner upper arm location. Hole number 2.
-Outer upper arm location. Hole number 2.

Rear End:
-Upper shock location. Hole number 2.
-Inner Upper Link. Hole number 3.
-Outer upper link. Hole number 2.
-Hub Location. Hole number 2.
-Lower shock location. Hole number 2.


I'm running the following in my Hyper 9e.

Front Diff Oil: Losi 5,ooo weight.
Center Diff Oil: Losi 3,ooo weight.
Rear Diff Oil: Losi 2,ooo weight.

Front Toe: Zero Degrees.
Front Camber: Zero Degrees.

Rear Toe: 2 Degrees
Rear Camber: Zero Degrees.
Anti Squat: 2 Degrees.

Shock Oils.
Front Shock Oil: Losi 32 1/2.
Rear Shock Oil: Losi 27 1/2.

Shock Springs:
Blue, soft springs. Front and Rear.

Droop and Ride Hight:
I'm using this links suggestions. I do make adjustments according to changing track conditions, as the notes in the link state. Keep in mind, I'm still learning, as well.

Shock Pistons.
Front Shock Pistons. Stock, No Modifications.
Rear Shock Pistons. Drilled 2 additional 1.45mm Holes in each rear shock piston. Now each rear shock piston has 8 1.45mm holes, rather than 6 1.45mm holes. I used the Nitro House drill bit kit especially designed for such a task(with case). I'm sure many hobby stores stock this kit or some variation of this kit.

I'm using this set up sheet at NitroHouse, as a reference; and I make adjustments as I find the buggy needs. This set-up sheet is for the track I run at, West Coast RC Raceway, it's a medium size indoor track, Clay. Kept watered, but never to much. This is a great set up sheet to use as a reference, for any Hyper 9E. Enjoy, and let me know if you have any more questions.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/ar...articles_id=29

PS. I'm running the stock front and rear arms and shock towers. Keep in mind, this Hyper 9e is updated to the Complete Matrix Concepts Carbon Fiber Chassis, Stock Length, and Carbon Fiber Shock Towers, Front and Rear, Carbon Fiber Steering Plate, and Carbon Fiber Radio Tray. And also the Carbon Fiber center diff Top Plate, and carbon fiber Rear Chassis Brace. And also carbon fiber Ackerman arms. I'm running the Medium Length Ackerman arm. The carbon fiber ackerman arms made by Matrix Concepts is a must have upagrade for every Hyper 9e, it makes the steering super tight, with no drag nor binding. I recumend the entire Matrix Carbon Fiber Kit, if Possible. Hope this helps. If you have any more question, let me know and I'll do my best to answer them.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:39 AM
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Default Hyper 9E.

Originally Posted by modlosi View Post
still need to mount esc,velcro, etc. and get 4s and it will be ready for its first run...more to come later..
modlosi,
Your Hyper 9E looks super. That's a great looking red. Exactly what variation color red is this? do you have the name and part number of this red paint, or any information that would help me find this exact color/can of paint. Great looking paint job. Who painted your buggy for you? When do we get to see more pictures of the inner workings of your Super Hyper 9E. Hope to see them pictures soon. The buggy doesn't have to be complete in order to post up your pictures. It's all about the process of fixing up and improving your buggy, even if it's for the first time, ie new buggy with new electronics. It's awesome to follow a project as it's nearing completion. It's all about each of our experiences with our Hyper 9E buggies, as we have them.
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:08 AM
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Default Plow Donkey's and BEC Cows.

Originally Posted by supafastsupra2 View Post
Mindthoughts, the BEC voltage is adjustable on the MMP with the castlelink software. Its best to keep it around 5.5 to 6.0 volts from my experimentation to try and eliminate the glitching.IT is the current or amperage that decreases with voltage, because a switching bec works by simply switching a circuit closed and open at a certain frequency so the average voltage is wbhatever your selected output voltage becomes. As you go up in input voltage this switching frequency must also increase to compensate, resulting in less amperage since there's less "on" time. It also doesn't help that my tekno 8ight is a cow with the whole bec situation. My question on temperature was to the person who linked the one cell version of the MMP without a fan. Also my reference to the cc/neu 1400 series was for anyone else who was going to try your setup as a heads up to a more practical option. The 1400 series do have the same rotor as the 1500 but with compacted stator windings so they are a bit less efficient, heat up more than their larger diameter counterparts. For a light buggy such as yours it will be fine but I believe the best option is either a longer 36mm neu or simply the 40mm 1509-1512 motors. I like what you've done with your hyper and the 2s setup but for the vast majority I still see 3s and 4s setups as a better option. A higher voltage setup with a proportionally less capacitive battery will alway be more efficient.

If I made any grammatical errors or just plain stupid sounding sentences its because I'm typing via my phone, ill get back to it when I get a chance. Cheers.

supafastsupra,
what do you mean when you say-

"It also doesn't help that my tekno 8ight is a cow with the whole bec situation" ?

That sounds kinda funny. we have the BEC cow, and the Plow Donkey trying to take HH (Harley Hall) out of his race.
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:15 AM
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What I meant by that was that my 8ight is probably the heaviest E-conversion I've personally seen, and with the BEC on the MMP added stress onto the servo (9100t) will tax it more and could be why mine does glitch while others don't. I also run FASST which may have a higher voltage requirement than Spektrum receivers for example.

What hardware is everyone running to use the Tekno side trays? And what size countersink bit?
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Old 07-29-2010, 08:03 PM
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Default A-arms suck

Took my 9e out for the first time to the park and broke both front arms at the hinges. Sucky plastic I am guessing. I am hoping to see if these are the updated arms or the original arms. Anyone know where I can find some pics of the two versions of the arms. Got to drive the buggy for 30 seconds and the arms broke. Was just trying to launch off a 1 foot high side walk down to a 45degree dirt hill going downwards. Car cart wheeled two times and walked up to the car to find my arms sitting off the hinge pins.

Ok my venting is done. Will get the buggy back together and see how it really goes.
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Old 07-29-2010, 08:17 PM
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...per-9e-27.html
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:33 AM
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Default Front Arms(version 1 and version 2), Injection Mold Defective Process, not materials.

Originally Posted by airboy808 View Post
Took my 9e out for the first time to the park and broke both front arms at the hinges. Sucky plastic I am guessing. I am hoping to see if these are the updated arms or the original arms. Anyone know where I can find some pics of the two versions of the arms. Got to drive the buggy for 30 seconds and the arms broke. Was just trying to launch off a 1 foot high side walk down to a 45degree dirt hill going downwards. Car cart wheeled two times and walked up to the car to find my arms sitting off the hinge pins.

Ok my venting is done. Will get the buggy back together and see how it really goes.

Your notes indicate you recieved one of the first two version of Hyper 9e front lower arms. The first version, broke like butter, near the hinge pins. My understanding is this was an injection mold problem, and not a materials(Plastic Quality) problem. If you buy new arms from Nitro House, they say "New", these arms no longer suffer from the defective Injection Mold process. It had something to do with the Direction the molds were being filled from, and other technical points I do not completely understand. I can say I hit a broken pipe sticking up out of the ground with the V3, version three front arms at full speed and the Hyper 9e spun around several times, yet suprisingly did not break the front arm. These new front arms for the Hyper 9e seem to be at least as strong as my Losi 8ight front arms, which I've experienced to be extreemly strong. of all the crashes and tumbles, I've not broke one of the new v3 Hyper 9e arms.

PS. If you call Ofna customer support, I believe they will be happy to exchange your old defective front arms with the new version 3 arms. This way your front arms will not break like butter, again. Keep us posted on your experience with Ofna. And with your Hyper 9e. When do we get to see some pictures of your buggy?
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Old 07-30-2010, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MindThoughts View Post
PS. If you call Ofna customer support, I believe they will be happy to exchange your old defective front arms with the new version 3 arms. This way your front arms will not break like butter, again. Keep us posted on your experience with Ofna. And with your Hyper 9e. When do we get to see some pictures of your buggy?
That would be news to me as when my kit came in and it was one of the first ones I was willing to send in the arms so I got the latest ones and they were not interested. Same with the shocks as they did a running change as the original shocks had an issue with too small of a inner bushing and it caused the shock body to hog out. it was actually cheaper in the long run for me to order from special-rc an entire shock set instead of just the body i needed from nitrohouse.

I will say though, I don't recall breaking a front arm after i did the Hyper 8.5 upper a-arm mod as well as boiling the front lower arms.
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
That would be news to me as when my kit came in and it was one of the first ones I was willing to send in the arms so I got the latest ones and they were not interested. Same with the shocks as they did a running change as the original shocks had an issue with too small of a inner bushing and it caused the shock body to hog out. it was actually cheaper in the long run for me to order from special-rc an entire shock set instead of just the body i needed from nitrohouse.

I will say though, I don't recall breaking a front arm after i did the Hyper 8.5 upper a-arm mod as well as boiling the front lower arms.
how long do you boil them for and what temp
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