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HoBao Hyper 9E thread

HoBao Hyper 9E thread

Old 06-03-2010, 10:00 AM
  #1621  
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Originally Posted by reracer View Post
The Elite mount is so stiff and strong that a motor support is not needed.
This isn't true if you are going to run that Losi motor. I have seen many Losi motors come apart because they were only supported by their mounting screws. Losi must have realized this when they built their conversions because they added a support for the can of the motor.
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:14 AM
  #1622  
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Originally Posted by ambo View Post
Just finished rebuilding my Hyper9E and will be doing the front CVD mod and top chassis brace in a day or to. Here are some pix. (sorry for the dirty work mat...)
After seeing your post I went to do my own mod and I finished it and installed it but have not test it on the track. I was wondering did you finish your yet I am interested to see how yours turn out.
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:19 AM
  #1623  
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Originally Posted by cMECZKOWSKI View Post
Ok I have a inferno ve (crap) and a vorza but now I'm wantin to get into racing racing so I'm debatin on the hyper 9e or rc8be and the ve8 but with the hyper I'd order it now only one problem the motor everyone suggest is out of stock everywhere the tekin rx8 1900kv , um what other motors do you suggest I'm runnin on a decent size track out in missouri (dirt burners)

Or should I hold off and wait till they come in stock ? Ps does anyone know when they will be in stock
Thnks corey
I found two of these Tekin 1900kv systems on ebay right now. Or you could buy the motor and the Xerun controller separately...it's a popular combo.
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:36 AM
  #1624  
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This Pictures shows what happens to drive pins when the angle of the diff, ie. outdrive, is even slightly out of alignment to it's axle, causing greater wear on the drive pins. It escapes me why the designer of this masterpiece of a buggy was not able to correct this angle, but in my previous post; the solution seems very possible as an aftermarket product. Please don't think I'm putting this Buggy down, it by far exceeds any other design to date. All 1/8th scale buggy manufacturers have allot of catching up to do. Meanwhile, I hope that Ofna will steadily pursue pefection; withought hesitation.
Originally Posted by ambo View Post
Hmmm, interesting pictures you have there. Specially the front drive cup where the cross pin is wearing it out. IMHO, the solution would be putting a CVD in the front end and a dog bone n the rear end. This will eliminate the problem up front. I think I have a Mugen CVD lying around somewhere...I think I'll have a go at this and see what happens....

Unfortunately, using a CVD doesn't fix anything. A similar sliding joint exists in the CVD just the like the dog bone. The only real way to fix the problem is to not be cheap and lazy, but to design separate front and rear gearbox enclosures. Losi is the only company that I have seen that has the front input shaft come out parallel to the chassis.... unfortunately they make a nasty angle in the other plane.
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:47 AM
  #1625  
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Originally Posted by MindThoughts View Post
Thank you for this Link H9_nutter,

Now I believe I can see how this modification could be done. I can use my Hudy Drive Pin Replacement Tool, that allow anyone to punch out the old 3mm drive pins, and punch or drive into place the new 3mm drive pin. I can simply push the pin out of the one end of the long one piece aluminum drive shaft on the Hyper 9e, and after buying this Hyper 9 nitro center CVD drive axle I can also punch one of those pins out of the CVD side, and once I have one drive pin missing from each piece(one from CVD and one from long one piece aluminum) I can connect the long aluminum drive shaft with the new CVD and drive a new 3mm x 14mm Drive pin into and though both parts holding them together as one.
If I understand you correctly, I think you will run into a big problem with this solution as you are missing out the cvd shaft coupling that sits inside the end of the cvd shaft. Without this coupling you are only getting freedom around one axis (think of a normal door hinge) and this will cause a lot of strain on the drive line when the chassis is flexing.

If there is something I misunderstand I apology, but in that case please explain.
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:18 AM
  #1626  
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Default snrscion, will you please post pictures of your cvd mod for the center drive shaft.

Originally Posted by snrscion View Post
After seeing your post I went to do my own mod and I finished it and installed it but have not test it on the track. I was wondering did you finish your yet I am interested to see how yours turn out.
Hi snrscion,

will you please post pictures of your modification? some close ups would be totally awesome. thank you in advance.

This is such an awesome idea, I wish ofna would offer this as an upgrade for their Hyper 9e.

PS. can hardly wait to see this mod on a Hyper 9e. This should significantly reduce the friction and thus wear on the front part of the center drive shaft(drive cup/outdrive, and drive pins in the front part of the center drive shaft). actually it sounds like all that will be replaced by a cvd. I'm hoping snrscions pictures will show.
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:27 AM
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Default Hyper 9e. From Drive Pins to CVD for the Center drive Shaft. Front part only.

Originally Posted by ronsand View Post
If I understand you correctly, I think you will run into a big problem with this solution as you are missing out the cvd shaft coupling that sits inside the end of the cvd shaft. Without this coupling you are only getting freedom around one axis (think of a normal door hinge) and this will cause a lot of strain on the drive line when the chassis is flexing.

If there is something I misunderstand I apology, but in that case please explain.
I think I see what you are saying. but snrscion said he was able to make the cvd modification and I'm very interested in how he did it. I asked if he would post some close up pictures of the front part of the center drive shaft.

also, I agree that ofna should have compensated for the front chassis kick up and had the outdrive leave the front gear box on the same plane as the drive shaft. I have no idea why they didn't do this in the original design. The dog bone design is good and simple, but that angle does cause premature wear on the front center drive shaft drive pins and outdrive/drive cups as my previous pictures show, a few pages back. If ofna has a reason for this incorection, I'm very interested to know. and again, don't get me wronge, even with these minor, what seem to be design flaws, are few and far between on this bad boy buggy, and the Hyper 9e is still the badest of the bad, and in that I mean the best of the best!
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Old 06-03-2010, 01:07 PM
  #1628  
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I have no idea why they didn't do this in the original design.
If they are like most companies, they did it to save money by using the same gearbox case for the front and the rear of the car. AE, HPI, Ofna, O'Donnel all do this. If you want a better setup, build a 9e style chassis that holds a Losi front gear box, an AE rear box and put truggy gears in the Losi box. This would solve 2 problems 1- the drive shaft angle 2- the gearing choices for higher rpm motors. Spur size is limited so a bigger gear box ratio would be ideal. The truggy gears for the losi and the stock gears for the Ae are both 4.3 which would be better than the 3.9 that is stock on the 9e. If Ofna was smart they would build their own parts to do this. I would also suggest they break up the center shaft in to 2 smaller shafts that have a coupling and a bearing in the middle. It would be like a center diff that isn't a diff but it would allow the car to flex without the risk of bending the transfer shaft. Keeping the coupling small and the bearings small would allow the battery to remain right where it is.
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Old 06-03-2010, 04:48 PM
  #1629  
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Originally Posted by sickwitit View Post
I found two of these Tekin 1900kv systems on ebay right now. Or you could buy the motor and the Xerun controller separately...it's a popular combo.
Ya but if I get them off e bay will the warrenty still be with them if not that's why I was hopein someone knew when they were goin to be back in stock at lik rc planet or a main hobbies or even give me suggestions on other motors to run in the hyper 9e 4s set up ???
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Old 06-03-2010, 05:24 PM
  #1630  
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Default Which motor and ESC to run in your Hyper 9e.

I run the castle creations Mamba Monster ESC and 2650kv motor. It's rediculously fast and very reliable. The motor and esc both come with a one year waranty and I run this motor with a 17tooth pinion gear, and stock 40tooth spur gear.

Congratulations on your choice of buggy. It's a work of simplistic/minimalistic art. And it's faaaasst. I run one 2cell lipo on smaller tracks like ocrc, or I'll run one three cell at larger tracks like revelation raceway in ontario ca. The 2650kv is a 1512 1Y motor, but because I like to run one two cell, I just ordered a Steve Neu/Castle motor from castles web site, it's a smaller, lighter(by a few ounces), 1409 1Y Brushless rated at 3600kv. It'll have more top end, and less torque, which to me translates into more controlable power off the line and massive smooth high rpm power. This is just a test I'm doing, two engineers at castle(Greg and Thomas, in Technical Support) said it should work great in my Hyper 9e. The 1409 1Y 3600kv was tested by castle as the ideal race and ultimate basher(speed demon) motor for the Slash 4x4. The motor also comes standard with a 5mm pinion gear shaft, meaning we can still use the same 1/8th scale (Hot Bodies) pinion gears. Also, as you may already know, Brandon at Elite-RC makes an aftermarket motor mount that's very trick, but you can always get that later, it's definitly somthing to put on your wish list.

I ran the 2650kv motor and combo esc for just over one year now, it's outstanding. I recumend that system to anyone. Hope this helps.


Originally Posted by cMECZKOWSKI View Post
Ya but if I get them off e bay will the warrenty still be with them if not that's why I was hopein someone knew when they were goin to be back in stock at lik rc planet or a main hobbies or even give me suggestions on other motors to run in the hyper 9e 4s set up ???
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Old 06-03-2010, 06:10 PM
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Default CVD vs Dogbones 3mm Replaceable Drive Pins. Wear vs Wear. Friction is key!

Hi kufman,
how do you know all this? This is awesome information. I mean, you just solved two major problems. Especially your solution number two being that I'm going to be running a 3600kv motor, I have to use a 13 or 14 tooth pinion, and with your solution #2, I could be running a much larger pinion gear and still have the exact same overal speed. And your solution #1, is a fine way to solve the kickup on the chassis byproduct, which is the premature wear of our outdrive/drive cup & drive shaft drive pin. Snrscion noted that he found a way to instal the center drive shaft cvd, I really want to know how he did that, I hope it's not top secret. I see you believe the cvd is not a solution, but when I think about the drive pin rubing up and down the outdrive, maybe the drive pin only rubs about 2 or 3 mm. But thats still a rubing/grinding that does not take place with a cvd. The rubing friction will wear much faster than a cvd which does not rub nor grind the way the drive pin in the drive shaft does against the outdrive/drive cup, therfore causing our much disliked wear. Note that the rubing/sliding/grinding that I'm specifically talking about is the result of the chassis kickup angle being the same angle the front gearbox housing the front diff, it's pointing the front diffs drive cup downward toward the chassis, rather than pointing the drive cup directly at the rear diff.

Originally Posted by kufman View Post
If they are like most companies, they did it to save money by using the same gearbox case for the front and the rear of the car. AE, HPI, Ofna, O'Donnel all do this. If you want a better setup, build a 9e style chassis that holds a Losi front gear box, an AE rear box and put truggy gears in the Losi box. This would solve 2 problems 1- the drive shaft angle 2- the gearing choices for higher rpm motors. Spur size is limited so a bigger gear box ratio would be ideal. The truggy gears for the losi and the stock gears for the Ae are both 4.3 which would be better than the 3.9 that is stock on the 9e. If Ofna was smart they would build their own parts to do this. I would also suggest they break up the center shaft in to 2 smaller shafts that have a coupling and a bearing in the middle. It would be like a center diff that isn't a diff but it would allow the car to flex without the risk of bending the transfer shaft. Keeping the coupling small and the bearings small would allow the battery to remain right where it is.
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Old 06-03-2010, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cMECZKOWSKI View Post
Ya but if I get them off e bay will the warrenty still be with them if not that's why I was hopein someone knew when they were goin to be back in stock at lik rc planet or a main hobbies or even give me suggestions on other motors to run in the hyper 9e 4s set up ???
I have the T8 1900kv and the T8 2050kv. I run them sensored with either an RX8 or lately with a Mamba Max Pro esc. While they have both been good motors I definitely prefer the power band of the 2050kv. It has a "D" wind (Delta) where the 1900kv has a "Y" wind. Randy Pike of Tekin told me the "D" wind motors feel like they have a little more punch to them which I have found to be true in the case of these two motors. You won't be disappointed with the 2050kv if you decide to go that way.
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by HH View Post
I have the T8 1900kv and the T8 2050kv. I run them sensored with either an RX8 or lately with a Mamba Max Pro esc. While they have both been good motors I definitely prefer the power band of the 2050kv. It has a "D" wind (Delta) where the 1900kv has a "Y" wind. Randy Pike of Tekin told me the "D" wind motors feel like they have a little more punch to them which I have found to be true in the case of these two motors. You won't be disappointed with the 2050kv if you decide to go that way.
actually i was wanting to put my team orion 2050kv motor in there but the motor is way to big but thanks ill take a look at the tekin 2050 .. shit guess what thos are out of stock aswell lol this is the only thing keeping me from getin this buggy damn motor
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:45 PM
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Well here is a couple of pictures of it in my car. I ran it on the street today trying to break it but it will not budge. I run a MM with 2200kv gear at 16t with 4s.



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Old 06-04-2010, 01:40 AM
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Awesome work. This should solve all the problems.

Is that the hyper 9 nitro uni. Have you machined the center of the ally shaft to accept the outer diameter of the nitro uni shaft and is that devcon or alike to seal it/glue it up. Have you used a roll pin or something at the join??

I was thinking of doing it this way I just wish I had a lathe to use.!!
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