HoBao Hyper 9E thread
#1606

Now I see what you plan to do. But I still hope to see pictures of the different stages of the process. The lathe in action. Interesting though I believe the long one piece heavier drive shaft will behave very much like a gyro and completely stabalize your buggy during air time and cornering and even gunning it down the straight aways. I imagine the massive RPM's this steel center drive shaft will achieve will definitely act as a gyro, and being that it's dead center in the very middle of the buggy, is completely ideal. will be very interesting to see the difference a buggy with a gyro will handle. The benefits should/could be incredible. This could be the trick mod, and completely discovered by accident.
Hmmm, very good thinking MindThoughts. That idea is truly worthy of exploring it's full potential. Well, I will go old school by making the whole CVD front/dogbone rear center shaft in steel. I know that the rotational mass of the center shaft will increase but the benefits will outweigh the cons. I have access to a lathe so it will turn true. BTW, I already did this when I chewed up the aluminum end of the center shaft when I didn't put the proper spacer (fuel tubing LOL) up front. I only put it in the rear diff so it mangled the aluminum.
It will be a very loooong center shaft when it's done....(it's still the same as the old one...)

#1607


#1608
#1609

Does anyone experience the leakage of diff oil is from the
4 countsunk screws.
I tighten all 4 screws. When i throttle....can see oil spill out both left and right side of the centre diff. I realise there are oil line on each screw.
All assembly according to manual. i did not over tighten the screws.
Can someone explain on this issue...
Thanks
4 countsunk screws.
I tighten all 4 screws. When i throttle....can see oil spill out both left and right side of the centre diff. I realise there are oil line on each screw.
All assembly according to manual. i did not over tighten the screws.
Can someone explain on this issue...
Thanks
#1610
Registered User
iTrader: (8)

Does anyone experience the leakage of diff oil is from the
4 countsunk screws.
I tighten all 4 screws. When i throttle....can see oil spill out both left and right side of the centre diff. I realise there are oil line on each screw.
All assembly according to manual. i did not over tighten the screws.
Can someone explain on this issue...
Thanks
4 countsunk screws.
I tighten all 4 screws. When i throttle....can see oil spill out both left and right side of the centre diff. I realise there are oil line on each screw.
All assembly according to manual. i did not over tighten the screws.
Can someone explain on this issue...
Thanks
#1611

Front:
White springs
Outside on tower
40wt (Losi)
Hardened steel dogbones
1/2 oz wt in front bumper
-1.5* camber
+1* toe out
Rear:
Blue springs
3-Outside
35wt (Losi)
-3* camber
1oz wt in rear bumper
FD-5Kwt (Mugen)
CD-3Kwt (Mugen)
RD-1Kwt (Mugen)
Tekin: RX8 / 2K kv
40t spur/ 16t Pinion
Tires:
F-Caliber (Proline)
R-Recoil (Proline)
I balanced car with a wooden dowl, the measured center line
is where the antena is, 15" chassis with 7.5" to antena
L/R Balance was dead on with my battery positioning
White springs
Outside on tower
40wt (Losi)
Hardened steel dogbones
1/2 oz wt in front bumper
-1.5* camber
+1* toe out
Rear:
Blue springs
3-Outside
35wt (Losi)
-3* camber
1oz wt in rear bumper
FD-5Kwt (Mugen)
CD-3Kwt (Mugen)
RD-1Kwt (Mugen)
Tekin: RX8 / 2K kv
40t spur/ 16t Pinion
Tires:
F-Caliber (Proline)
R-Recoil (Proline)
I balanced car with a wooden dowl, the measured center line
is where the antena is, 15" chassis with 7.5" to antena
L/R Balance was dead on with my battery positioning
#1612

Hey Guys
I've recently seen 2 fellow racers snap the Front Arms on their Hyper 9e.
If I order the parts from Amain, will that be the new version?
Would anyone have 2 minutes to l ink me the upgrades recommended?
I need to fit 2 full 9E's for race with a Tekin RX8 1900 / 4S setup.
So we got:
Elite RC mount
Hot bodies Pinions ( 17,18,19)
Link for the ( B ) type rear arms and tower? - Couldnt find them.
I prefer to buy everything at one shop, due to tax regulations in Denmark.
A few direct links are highly appriciated, thanks in advance and please continue this great thread - So much usefull information are gathered for us newbies
I've recently seen 2 fellow racers snap the Front Arms on their Hyper 9e.
If I order the parts from Amain, will that be the new version?
Would anyone have 2 minutes to l ink me the upgrades recommended?
I need to fit 2 full 9E's for race with a Tekin RX8 1900 / 4S setup.
So we got:
Elite RC mount
Hot bodies Pinions ( 17,18,19)
Link for the ( B ) type rear arms and tower? - Couldnt find them.
I prefer to buy everything at one shop, due to tax regulations in Denmark.
A few direct links are highly appriciated, thanks in advance and please continue this great thread - So much usefull information are gathered for us newbies

#1613

I suggest calling Nitro House, they also have a web page. I'll see if I can find the link for you, Link bellow. Talk to Tim Bump or DJ, Tim was the lead designer of the Hyper 9e and will be able to answer all your questions.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/
I'm sure you can buy the new arms from many hobby stores, online or in person, but to be absolutely sure of this, call Nitro House and see if you can get Tim on the line(Nitro House also sells parts at great prices and great customer service). Otherwise you can ask to be transfered to the Ofna Tech Support, I think that's where DJ works, and he also should be able to answer any of your technical questions, including being certain you get the latest, trouble free version of the Suspention Arms.
PS. Congratulations on choosing the Elite-RC motor mounts, That's a great upgrade.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/
I'm sure you can buy the new arms from many hobby stores, online or in person, but to be absolutely sure of this, call Nitro House and see if you can get Tim on the line(Nitro House also sells parts at great prices and great customer service). Otherwise you can ask to be transfered to the Ofna Tech Support, I think that's where DJ works, and he also should be able to answer any of your technical questions, including being certain you get the latest, trouble free version of the Suspention Arms.
PS. Congratulations on choosing the Elite-RC motor mounts, That's a great upgrade.
Hey Guys
I've recently seen 2 fellow racers snap the Front Arms on their Hyper 9e.
If I order the parts from Amain, will that be the new version?
Would anyone have 2 minutes to l ink me the upgrades recommended?
I need to fit 2 full 9E's for race with a Tekin RX8 1900 / 4S setup.
So we got:
Elite RC mount
Hot bodies Pinions ( 17,18,19)
Link for the ( B ) type rear arms and tower? - Couldnt find them.
I prefer to buy everything at one shop, due to tax regulations in Denmark.
A few direct links are highly appriciated, thanks in advance and please continue this great thread - So much usefull information are gathered for us newbies
I've recently seen 2 fellow racers snap the Front Arms on their Hyper 9e.
If I order the parts from Amain, will that be the new version?
Would anyone have 2 minutes to l ink me the upgrades recommended?
I need to fit 2 full 9E's for race with a Tekin RX8 1900 / 4S setup.
So we got:
Elite RC mount
Hot bodies Pinions ( 17,18,19)
Link for the ( B ) type rear arms and tower? - Couldnt find them.
I prefer to buy everything at one shop, due to tax regulations in Denmark.
A few direct links are highly appriciated, thanks in advance and please continue this great thread - So much usefull information are gathered for us newbies

#1614
Tech Initiate

OK IM LOOKIN TO GET THE HYPER 9E SEEMS LIKE EVERYONE IS LIKIN THIS BUGGY THIS WILLL B MY FIRST RACE BUGGY KEEP IN MIND I DO HAVE THE INFERNO VE (CRAP)AND THE VORZA
ONLY ONE PROBLEM FROM ME ORDERIN IT THE MOTOR I WANT THE
TEKIN RX8 1900KV MOTOR IS OUT OF STOCK EVERYWHERE
THIS BUGGY WILL BE RAN AT DIRT BURNERS IN MISSOURI ITS A PRETTY GOOD SIZE TRACK
ARE THERE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ON DIFFERENT MOTORS FOR A 4S SET UP
OR SHOULD I JUST WAIT FOR THE
TEKIN 1900KV MOTOR WHICH DOES ANYONE KNOW WHEN ITS GONNA BE BACK IN STOCK
THNKS
COREY
ONLY ONE PROBLEM FROM ME ORDERIN IT THE MOTOR I WANT THE
TEKIN RX8 1900KV MOTOR IS OUT OF STOCK EVERYWHERE
THIS BUGGY WILL BE RAN AT DIRT BURNERS IN MISSOURI ITS A PRETTY GOOD SIZE TRACK
ARE THERE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ON DIFFERENT MOTORS FOR A 4S SET UP
OR SHOULD I JUST WAIT FOR THE
TEKIN 1900KV MOTOR WHICH DOES ANYONE KNOW WHEN ITS GONNA BE BACK IN STOCK
THNKS
COREY
#1615
Tech Initiate

Ok well I have a inferno ve (crap) n the vorza but I'm looking for a race buggy only problem is the motor the tekin rx8 1900kv motor is out of stock everywhere what other motors do you suggest on a 4s setup at dirt burners in missouri its a decent size track. Or should I just wait untill the motor is in stock
Thnks corey
Ps this may be the second message didn't know if the first one posted
Thnks corey
Ps this may be the second message didn't know if the first one posted
#1616

Ok, I know everyone has one, but I thought I would write a formal review. Since I had my Hyper 9 apart for cleaning/updating, I though I would snap a few pics of my current setup, and post a review of Elite's mount:
Ordering/Shipping: The site is pretty simple and easy to use, so nothing spectacular here. However, the mount was shipped the same day I ordered it, which is amazing.
Installation: The machine work is beautiful and all of the holes match the chassis nicely. The Elite mount does away with the three piece plastic/aluminum mount. Installation requires that you replace the front bearing of the center diff with a flanged bearing. This bearing helps to limit the front to rear movement of the center diff.
One of the benefits of the stock mount was the easy of removal of the center diff. The Elite mount pretty much requires complete disassembly of the rear diff area to get the diff out, but thats a small price to pay.
The elite mount also does away with a motor support(if you were running one) which in my case resulted in a 13g weight loss.
There is a motor shaft support bearing provided, but in my case I was not able to use it because of the large fillet at the base of the motor shaft. Two sets of holes are provided in the motor block, so you have a choice of screw sizes 3mm and 4mm. Lastly, the stock pinions will not work unless you install them backward. Again, in my case this was not a problem since my motor shaft is so long. I prefer the two set screws of the stock pinions, but if you want to run the pinion as intended, Elite recommends Hot Bodies pinions, which are much shorter.
Adjustment: This is the reason I bought the Elite mount in the first place, and it did not disappoint. The M-block moves very easily and precisely allowing quick and accurate adjustment of the mesh.
The M-block was obviously machined for use with a 14t pinion. With the M-block bottomed out and a stock 14t pinion installed the gear mesh was perfect and much more consistent than the stock mount.
Adjusted as above, my motor ended up 0.20" lower than stock. The motor is also approximately 0.090" further forward in the car.
Summery: Overall a great product, which is well designed and well worth the money. I can't imagine going back to the stock mount.
First pic is the original setup.
Ordering/Shipping: The site is pretty simple and easy to use, so nothing spectacular here. However, the mount was shipped the same day I ordered it, which is amazing.
Installation: The machine work is beautiful and all of the holes match the chassis nicely. The Elite mount does away with the three piece plastic/aluminum mount. Installation requires that you replace the front bearing of the center diff with a flanged bearing. This bearing helps to limit the front to rear movement of the center diff.
One of the benefits of the stock mount was the easy of removal of the center diff. The Elite mount pretty much requires complete disassembly of the rear diff area to get the diff out, but thats a small price to pay.
The elite mount also does away with a motor support(if you were running one) which in my case resulted in a 13g weight loss.
There is a motor shaft support bearing provided, but in my case I was not able to use it because of the large fillet at the base of the motor shaft. Two sets of holes are provided in the motor block, so you have a choice of screw sizes 3mm and 4mm. Lastly, the stock pinions will not work unless you install them backward. Again, in my case this was not a problem since my motor shaft is so long. I prefer the two set screws of the stock pinions, but if you want to run the pinion as intended, Elite recommends Hot Bodies pinions, which are much shorter.
Adjustment: This is the reason I bought the Elite mount in the first place, and it did not disappoint. The M-block moves very easily and precisely allowing quick and accurate adjustment of the mesh.
The M-block was obviously machined for use with a 14t pinion. With the M-block bottomed out and a stock 14t pinion installed the gear mesh was perfect and much more consistent than the stock mount.
Adjusted as above, my motor ended up 0.20" lower than stock. The motor is also approximately 0.090" further forward in the car.
Summery: Overall a great product, which is well designed and well worth the money. I can't imagine going back to the stock mount.
First pic is the original setup.
#1617

Hi ReRacer,
I really like your setup. looks very clean and straightforward. where did you buy the motor support for your original motor mount? and all the other aluminum aftermarket you added. looks very good. I epecially like the aluminum just over your center diff, and your rear chassis brace, or center chassis brace. Please, if you will; share with us where you bought these aluminum hop ups? and if you made them, how much would you charge to make some for us?
Thank you in advance. I'm really glad you posted these pictures of your Hyper 9e, I had no idea how incredible your buggy is. I think very soon, the Hyper 9e will be the most popular buggy made to date, and the most owned. and soon to follow, will have the most option parts of any 1/8th scale buggy, as well. and that will be a good day. because allot of the fun with these RC's is fixing them up, and buying tricked out parts for them. Parts that serve a performance perpose, like your's; it's not just bling. Bling quite frankly is boring. and there is plenty demand for parts that truly increase the performace of these buggies, and lower the weight. By the way, why is it that you no longer need a motor support with the Elite-RC motor mount? I love my Elite-RC motor mount as well, but I'm still waiting for my motor to come in from Steve Neu Motors. And that's a few weeks to go.
PS. I was wondering what I was going to use for a motor support for my motor, but if I don't need one that's all the better. I just thought I would bend the motor screws, by the way, I'm using the 3mm motor screws into the Mblox. Can you please tell me why you believe we no longer need to use a motor support with this Elite-RC motor mount? Thank you reracer.
I really like your setup. looks very clean and straightforward. where did you buy the motor support for your original motor mount? and all the other aluminum aftermarket you added. looks very good. I epecially like the aluminum just over your center diff, and your rear chassis brace, or center chassis brace. Please, if you will; share with us where you bought these aluminum hop ups? and if you made them, how much would you charge to make some for us?
Thank you in advance. I'm really glad you posted these pictures of your Hyper 9e, I had no idea how incredible your buggy is. I think very soon, the Hyper 9e will be the most popular buggy made to date, and the most owned. and soon to follow, will have the most option parts of any 1/8th scale buggy, as well. and that will be a good day. because allot of the fun with these RC's is fixing them up, and buying tricked out parts for them. Parts that serve a performance perpose, like your's; it's not just bling. Bling quite frankly is boring. and there is plenty demand for parts that truly increase the performace of these buggies, and lower the weight. By the way, why is it that you no longer need a motor support with the Elite-RC motor mount? I love my Elite-RC motor mount as well, but I'm still waiting for my motor to come in from Steve Neu Motors. And that's a few weeks to go.
PS. I was wondering what I was going to use for a motor support for my motor, but if I don't need one that's all the better. I just thought I would bend the motor screws, by the way, I'm using the 3mm motor screws into the Mblox. Can you please tell me why you believe we no longer need to use a motor support with this Elite-RC motor mount? Thank you reracer.
Ok, I know everyone has one, but I thought I would write a formal review. Since I had my Hyper 9 apart for cleaning/updating, I though I would snap a few pics of my current setup, and post a review of Elite's mount:
Ordering/Shipping: The site is pretty simple and easy to use, so nothing spectacular here. However, the mount was shipped the same day I ordered it, which is amazing.
Installation: The machine work is beautiful and all of the holes match the chassis nicely. The Elite mount does away with the three piece plastic/aluminum mount. Installation requires that you replace the front bearing of the center diff with a flanged bearing. This bearing helps to limit the front to rear movement of the center diff.
One of the benefits of the stock mount was the easy of removal of the center diff. The Elite mount pretty much requires complete disassembly of the rear diff area to get the diff out, but thats a small price to pay.
The elite mount also does away with a motor support(if you were running one) which in my case resulted in a 13g weight loss.
There is a motor shaft support bearing provided, but in my case I was not able to use it because of the large fillet at the base of the motor shaft. Two sets of holes are provided in the motor block, so you have a choice of screw sizes 3mm and 4mm. Lastly, the stock pinions will not work unless you install them backward. Again, in my case this was not a problem since my motor shaft is so long. I prefer the two set screws of the stock pinions, but if you want to run the pinion as intended, Elite recommends Hot Bodies pinions, which are much shorter.
Adjustment: This is the reason I bought the Elite mount in the first place, and it did not disappoint. The M-block moves very easily and precisely allowing quick and accurate adjustment of the mesh.
The M-block was obviously machined for use with a 14t pinion. With the M-block bottomed out and a stock 14t pinion installed the gear mesh was perfect and much more consistent than the stock mount.
Adjusted as above, my motor ended up 0.20" lower than stock. The motor is also approximately 0.090" further forward in the car.
Summery: Overall a great product, which is well designed and well worth the money. I can't imagine going back to the stock mount.
First pic is the original setup.
Ordering/Shipping: The site is pretty simple and easy to use, so nothing spectacular here. However, the mount was shipped the same day I ordered it, which is amazing.
Installation: The machine work is beautiful and all of the holes match the chassis nicely. The Elite mount does away with the three piece plastic/aluminum mount. Installation requires that you replace the front bearing of the center diff with a flanged bearing. This bearing helps to limit the front to rear movement of the center diff.
One of the benefits of the stock mount was the easy of removal of the center diff. The Elite mount pretty much requires complete disassembly of the rear diff area to get the diff out, but thats a small price to pay.
The elite mount also does away with a motor support(if you were running one) which in my case resulted in a 13g weight loss.
There is a motor shaft support bearing provided, but in my case I was not able to use it because of the large fillet at the base of the motor shaft. Two sets of holes are provided in the motor block, so you have a choice of screw sizes 3mm and 4mm. Lastly, the stock pinions will not work unless you install them backward. Again, in my case this was not a problem since my motor shaft is so long. I prefer the two set screws of the stock pinions, but if you want to run the pinion as intended, Elite recommends Hot Bodies pinions, which are much shorter.
Adjustment: This is the reason I bought the Elite mount in the first place, and it did not disappoint. The M-block moves very easily and precisely allowing quick and accurate adjustment of the mesh.
The M-block was obviously machined for use with a 14t pinion. With the M-block bottomed out and a stock 14t pinion installed the gear mesh was perfect and much more consistent than the stock mount.
Adjusted as above, my motor ended up 0.20" lower than stock. The motor is also approximately 0.090" further forward in the car.
Summery: Overall a great product, which is well designed and well worth the money. I can't imagine going back to the stock mount.
First pic is the original setup.
#1618

Hi ReRacer,
I really like your setup. looks very clean and straightforward. where did you buy the motor support for your original motor mount? and all the other aluminum aftermarket you added. looks very good. I epecially like the aluminum just over your center diff, and your rear chassis brace, or center chassis brace. Please, if you will; share with us where you bought these aluminum hop ups? and if you made them, how much would you charge to make some for us?
I made the rear diff cover-support/rear chassis brace , motor support, ESC mount and the front tower support. Not bad for a guy that uses a hammer, a blunt chisel and a dull file.
The whole rear setup works together and would not be easily reproduced. Also mine is setup for the Losi ESC. It would not be cost effective for my to mass produce and market it. Also, I don't think there are as many people out there willing to pay for these parts as you may think.
The front tower support requires the diff case and the optional front chassis brace to be machined, so I think that also makes it impractical to reproduce.
If I get more than 20 requests for these parts, I may reconsider...
PS. I was wondering what I was going to use for a motor support for my motor, but if I don't need one that's all the better. I just thought I would bend the motor screws, by the way, I'm using the 3mm motor screws into the Mblox. Can you please tell me why you believe we no longer need to use a motor support with this Elite-RC motor mount? Thank you reracer.
I really like your setup. looks very clean and straightforward. where did you buy the motor support for your original motor mount? and all the other aluminum aftermarket you added. looks very good. I epecially like the aluminum just over your center diff, and your rear chassis brace, or center chassis brace. Please, if you will; share with us where you bought these aluminum hop ups? and if you made them, how much would you charge to make some for us?
I made the rear diff cover-support/rear chassis brace , motor support, ESC mount and the front tower support. Not bad for a guy that uses a hammer, a blunt chisel and a dull file.

The whole rear setup works together and would not be easily reproduced. Also mine is setup for the Losi ESC. It would not be cost effective for my to mass produce and market it. Also, I don't think there are as many people out there willing to pay for these parts as you may think.
The front tower support requires the diff case and the optional front chassis brace to be machined, so I think that also makes it impractical to reproduce.
If I get more than 20 requests for these parts, I may reconsider...
PS. I was wondering what I was going to use for a motor support for my motor, but if I don't need one that's all the better. I just thought I would bend the motor screws, by the way, I'm using the 3mm motor screws into the Mblox. Can you please tell me why you believe we no longer need to use a motor support with this Elite-RC motor mount? Thank you reracer.
#1620
Tech Initiate

Ok I have a inferno ve (crap) and a vorza but now I'm wantin to get into racing racing so I'm debatin on the hyper 9e or rc8be and the ve8 but with the hyper I'd order it now only one problem the motor everyone suggest is out of stock everywhere the tekin rx8 1900kv , um what other motors do you suggest I'm runnin on a decent size track out in missouri (dirt burners)
Or should I hold off and wait till they come in stock ? Ps does anyone know when they will be in stock
Thnks corey
Or should I hold off and wait till they come in stock ? Ps does anyone know when they will be in stock
Thnks corey