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HoBao Hyper 9E thread

HoBao Hyper 9E thread

Old 05-27-2010, 05:26 PM
  #1591  
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MindThoughts, I do indeed realize the advantages, but in my application,
my batteries are twice as light as yours so I'm allowed to put the weight
forward to rearward to my liking while still maintaining weight required for balance equalization. Lighter and less mah hour however I can drain 100% of the battery. 7S=6S and even the 7S was lighter.

If I were to get a carbon fiber chassis I'd wouldn't wanna run my car.
it would get all scratched up on the bottom. The Hyper9 drives good enough as it is, decimating competition. mind you if everything has loctite everything and glue things lol
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Old 05-27-2010, 08:07 PM
  #1592  
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Default Matrix Concepts Inc Chassis for Nitro And Electric. It's the Same Chassis.

Originally Posted by ambo View Post
Thanks MindThoughts for pointing us in Robert's CF chassis. It sure looks good. You're right on the money regarding wrenching on the Losi buggy. It's such a pain in the arse to work on. I'm just curious, does Robert make chassis for the nitro Losi buggy only? That's all I see in his website.


Matrix Concepts, Inc.
120 N. Pacific St. #J3
San Marcos, CA 92069

Robert, Owner of Matrix Concepts Inc; Direct Phone Number and Email Just in case you are interested or have any questions. Best to call Robert Directly.
760 591-9323

[email protected]

Yes ambo,

Robert makes the Carbon chassis for the Losi 8ight Nitro buggy and truggy only, at this time(The Electric Buggies use the same chassis as the Nitro Buggies and Truggies, many of his customers run Brushless with his Carbon Fiber Nitro Chassis). Robert has CAD(Computer Aided Design) files with all the other chassis and parts on file, but here's the big picture:

Robert explained that when the economy slowed down( I'm still not completely sure why or how it is that this is the case, I thought the USA was the wealthiest country in the world), His primary business(not Matrix Concepts Inc) slowed down to the point where he had to stop making new products in his secondary business, which is Matrix Concepts Inc. Robert would love to make Chassis and aftermarket parts (like all aluminum axles and carbon chassis that almost never wear out because you can change the skid plates and droop screw plates, both of which are built into the chassis and therefore don't protrude beyond the chassis surface like adding aftermarket skidd plates to any chassis does), But at this moment; he is waiting for his primary business to pick up again, and that primary business is supplying racing parts for Full Scale race cars from every category of racing. Robert has been in the racing field for over 20 years. He has a vast array of knowledge and puts all his money and all his know how into everything he does. As you can see; he's a functional perfectionist. And has a history of being five to ten years ahead of his competition; design wise.

Robert, at this point in time is only selling the Losi nitro chassis, and anyone with a Losi 8ight, specifically the electric scene, is also able to use(and many people do use) his chassis because the electric(Brushless) motor and everything bolts right up. So yes, if you have a losi 8ight, you can run his chassis, just be sure to not buy the nitro parts that comes with some of his larger package kits(which include just about everything Carbon and Aluminum). He sells the Chassis alone for $109.oo, and that's a very good price for what you're getting. I would like to see HHH Industries work something out and find a way to offer us a Carbon Chassis as well. Harley Hall of HHH is offering a +6mm chassis, I believe that's what Jeremy Kortz is running on his Hyper 9e. Why Ofna doesn't offer this longer chassis to the public, Us; completely bafles/perplexes me. But I'll be happy to buy Harleys chassis in less than two weeks or so when it's ready for anyone with a Hyper 9e to enjoy. I already let him know I would like to buy one. And I'll never give up on getting a Carbon chassis as well.

Like I said, Roberts Work is soo good, I'm very tempted to just buy his complete Carbon kit for the losi, just so I can have access to his master craftsmanship. Robert of Matrix Concept Inc, Spared no expense. If I have to, I'll buy all his carbon for my losi and just hang it up on the wall to look at. But that doesn't make sense either and I'm sure would affend Robert. and in no way do I mean to. I love his work, I respect his work. and I sure wish Tim Bump and Robert could have collaborated on a carbon chassis for the Hyper 9e when the Hyper 9e was still on the drawing board. But better yet, I'm letting people know, including you, To write Robert and let him know how much you would like to buy one of his Carbon chassis, and let him know you run the Hyper 9e. If he has enough demand for the Hyper 9e Carbon Chassis, it may give him some fuel to create again. Robert did mention that the Hyper 9e chassis would be allot simpler to make, compared to the Losi chassis he's already made and now sells. But if you have a losi and still like it; consider his work, it's a good choice. Though it sounds like you have no interest in messing around with the losi again. I think we've all had a taste of the easy life with this low maintnance easy to work on, faster than anything on this planet; Hyper 9e. Take any driver in the world and let him run the Hyper 9e for a couple of days to get use to it. I bet he/she will be faster with the Hyper 9e than the other buggy they usually run. It's just the nature of Physics. The working slogan is Simplicity, Efficiency; and lightweight combined. Some call it magic. Others think they finally got fast and coincidentally they bought a Hyper 9e. I know for a fact that this Buggy is Radically different than any other. That is why I bought it. But I find myself asking a very strange question. When I look to buy my next new buggy or RC. Will my decission be partly based on, not the parts that come with the RC, But rather the quality of the parts I have the choice of buying once I own this RC. At the moment, it's very clear to me. If I was just buying the losi right now for the first time, and wanted to fix it up with high quality aftermarket parts. I would sure have a vast array of choices, and Matrix would be my first.

PS. I hope SNR can or will create/make/have made, a Carbon Chassis For Us.
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Old 05-27-2010, 10:12 PM
  #1593  
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Default LiPo(Lithium Ion Polymer) vs. LiFePO4(Lithium Iron Phosphate), LiPo is Lighter.

Originally Posted by xDaRReLLx87 View Post
MindThoughts, I do indeed realize the advantages, but in my application,
my batteries are twice as light as yours so I'm allowed to put the weight
forward to rearward to my liking while still maintaining weight required for balance equalization. Lighter and less mah hour however I can drain 100% of the battery. 7S=6S and even the 7S was lighter.

If I were to get a carbon fiber chassis I'd wouldn't wanna run my car.
it would get all scratched up on the bottom. The Hyper9 drives good enough as it is, decimating competition. mind you if everything has loctite everything and glue things lol
Hi xDaRReLLx,
I apprecieate your excitement about your awesome buggy, believe me; all of us Hyper 9e owners love our buggys. But that excitement alone does not make your batteries any lighter. I do not know where you get your figures from. But according to my research, which may be off if for no other reason then the limited information you've given me.

You say you're running a 7 cell a123. I'm guessing that's the older cells that people were taking out of DeWalt drills. and not the newer cells that MaxAmps sells and look identical to the LiPo battery, as far as the case looks from the outside.

You mention you are using a 7cell a123 and that it's voltage is that almost comparable to a 6cell LiPo. at least I think that's what 7s = 6s in your notes above mean.

from what I could find, a 6cell a123 at 2300 mah weighs about 500 Grams or 17.650 Ounces.(I did not see a 7 cell a123, but even the 6cell was heavier than the LiPo 3cell I use and thus will serve the purpose of weight comparison for our example here) I believe your suggestion was that your a123 6 or 7 cell weigh less than the Thunder Power 5200mah 3cell 447gram LiPo battery I use. I don't know why you thought that? If you wish to clarify your meaning, please do in great detail. I'm interested.

If you were using MaxAmps version of this Technology, they call it their "Green Series", a 6cell (Lithium Iron Phosphate, also known as a123) 2250 mah battery, looks identical to the flat cell outer case of a lipo battery. Weighs in at exactly 470 Grams or 16.58 Ounces.

As noted in my signature area, I run either one, 2 cell LiPo, or one 3 cell LiPo. Both of the 5200mah variety and weighing in at exactly 309 Grams and 447 Grams respectively. My guess is that you thought because you used less mah, in fact half the mah that I use, maybe you would weigh less too. But that is not the case as you can see. I use a 2cell lipo at ocrc raceway and my hyper 9e is as fast as I can handle and passes others running three and four cell lipo's, or even RC's running two 2cell lipo's in series making it a big bad 4cell. I run a 3cell LiPo only at very large tracks like Revelation Raceway, and even then, it's just insane fast. Just within control, but just beyond rediculous.

As for your concern with scratching up the bottom of your Carbon Fiber Chassis, if you were to have one. You could use the "Chassis Protective Sheet" Nitro House Part Number ASC9787.

You would have to trace each screw head and trim it out of the sheet in order to have access to each of your screws. But your chassis would not get scratched. As for me, I care as much for the bottom of my Matrix Carbon Chassis(If my dreams come true and Robert makes us one) getting scratched up as I do my tires getting scratched up. It's the bottom of the car, and though it's nice looking, it's not meant to look at and be nice looking. it's meant to get scratched up, it's also meant to be lighter than the metal chassis and that's one of the many purpose the Carbon Chassis Serves. Though it looks great, Thats not what it's made for. A Carbon Chassis is not Bling. It's more like Bang, for the buck. Especially in the case of Matrix Concepts Inc, Chassis.
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:01 AM
  #1594  
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MindThoughts: I will give Robert an email stating my intent of buying one of his CF chassis creations (for the Hyper 9E of course) if he ever goes around making one. Thank you again for sharing your info. regarding your conversation with Robert. It gives us enthusiasts a lot of insight on how it's done right. I also informed Harley that I'll be buying one of his +6mm length aluminum chassis when he's done. He quoted me a price which I feel is very fair considering the amount of CNC time needed to make one. I'm also done doing a rebuild on my 9E and updated the parts on it. I installed the straight rear arms, new rear shock tower, aluminum rear hinge pin holder (F), and updated stronger front CVDs. BTW, to minimize bending the front drive shaft, a fellow racer told me to radius the inner cup of the CVD. Meaning you have to remove the edge/corner and make it smooth. He used a dremel tool to do this. I had my friend use a lathe to do this..
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ambo View Post
Hmmm, interesting pictures you have there. Specially the front drive cup where the cross pin is wearing it out. IMHO, the solution would be putting a CVD in the front end and a dog bone n the rear end. This will eliminate the problem up front. I think I have a Mugen CVD lying around somewhere...I think I'll have a go at this and see what happens....
The nitro now has a front shaft that has a universal on the front diff end and solved that problem. Have noticed the issue is not as bad for the nitro as the shaft is shorter but this is all that would be needed to solve the prob.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Hobao-Hyper-9...item2305e4d55d

Make one for the Elect Please!!!!
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:47 AM
  #1596  
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Default Diff post replacement : Alu vs Steel ?

My front center diff post broke. I think it was due to having a screw too short in it. It snapped right where the screw ended, but with some extra thread left in it. Will make sure I use the full length of the thread on the replacement.
Now, looking for replacement, I see these posts come in Aluminium (OFNA part 29308) or Steel (part 29043), and Special-rc on Ebay even has a combined kit with 1 steel and 2 alu ( here . )

Does that mean I'd better off use a steel post in the front of the center diff (where it's also part of the motor mount) and the alu in the back ?
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:09 AM
  #1597  
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Default If I were in your shoes, I would buy the Elite-RC motor mount for Hyper 9e.

Hi Pascalfd,
My recumendation to you is as follows. Do youself a favor, buy the Elite-RC motor mount. Then you would simply not need the post on the side of the motor mount, but you still need two screws to screw your brace onto the top of your new motor mount. If you don't have the money for that mount at the moment, it's really your choice what materials you use. I would stick with lightweight, someone should offer these post in titanium, though I've never had a problem with the stock aluminum post, but like you said, use the proper length screws. I would beg and borrow (do not steal), to buy that bad boy Elite-RC motor mount, Brandon went all out in the design, easy to use; precise is an understatement, and very durable. I hope this information helps and answers your questions.




Originally Posted by pascalfd View Post
My front center diff post broke. I think it was due to having a screw too short in it. It snapped right where the screw ended, but with some extra thread left in it. Will make sure I use the full length of the thread on the replacement.
Now, looking for replacement, I see these posts come in Aluminium (OFNA part 29308) or Steel (part 29043), and Special-rc on Ebay even has a combined kit with 1 steel and 2 alu ( here . )

Does that mean I'd better off use a steel post in the front of the center diff (where it's also part of the motor mount) and the alu in the back ?
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Old 05-28-2010, 05:40 PM
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pascalfd: Thank you for pointing out the Ofna part number. I'll checck our LHS if they have it in stock. Anyway, the Mugen/Caster center CVDs will work IMHO. I'll post pictures of it when I'm done.

I'm with MindThoughts on the EliteRC mounts. The work of Brandon is top-notch specially with his new motor block. (I'm using it on my Caster EX1.5R and it's holding up very well). I highly recommend it.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:40 AM
  #1599  
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Hello

How many Hyper 9E is now?one version?or update?

Have link shop the new Hyper 9E update?no first version

Thanks
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:54 AM
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in order to fit a MMM and a 2200KV do you need to remove the RX box? it seems many pics i have seen the RX box is gone and the ECS is sitting lower in its place...
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Old 05-30-2010, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MindThoughts View Post
Hi xDaRReLLx,


You say you're running a 7 cell a123.
Im actually using a 6S and I was referring to if you used a 4-6S Lipo,
course a 6S will be heavier than a 3S lipo

PS my 6S weighs: 498g
my 3S= 247g
you did make me wana weigh them >:0

if I ran a 3S liFe I would be lighter than your 3S Lipo
all my point is. And to that respect a 2300mah life will outlast
a 2300 Lipo simply because a LiFe can be drained to 1%
Only drawback is that a123's only come in "one" mah rate,
however they do not burn up, never loose a charge, stay full power untill they are fully discharged, and last way more cycles, charge in less than 12 minutes, don't have to be balanced really often and actually learn to stay balanced after balancing discharging
first 10 cycles at a low rate.

A 6S Lipo = same power/voltage, as a 7S LiFe,
So technically my power of a 6SliFe is = to a 5.6S Lipo

my ESC is 95F, motor 115F, Batteries: 119F (common temp)
using just 2 batteries, I run while charging other battery
so after I finish I take battery out of car and swap on charger
and can run over and over and over with no delay

I would read more on LiFe batteries if I were you
more common in airplanes and heli's\

but not really ROAR specs :P

Last edited by xDaRReLLx87; 05-30-2010 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 05-30-2010, 06:07 PM
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Just finished rebuilding my Hyper9E and will be doing the front CVD mod and top chassis brace in a day or to. Here are some pix. (sorry for the dirty work mat...)
Attached Thumbnails HoBao Hyper 9E thread-image0002.jpg   HoBao Hyper 9E thread-image0003.jpg  
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Old 05-30-2010, 08:11 PM
  #1603  
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Default Hyper 9e Center Drive Shaft Modification from DogBone/Drive Pin to CVD. Awesome

Originally Posted by ambo View Post
Just finished rebuilding my Hyper9E and will be doing the front CVD mod and top chassis brace in a day or to. Here are some pix. (sorry for the dirty work mat...)
Hi Ambo,

I can't wait to see this modification. can you please take pictures of the different stages of the process involved in making this modification. for one, I can't even begin to imagine how you're going to connect the CVD(Continuously Variable Drive axle) to the center Drive Shaft, and also; then to the part the drive cup use to connect to. This is very exciting. By the way, I wanted to mention to you. I was talking with an engineer and he said the CVD modification is the choice upgrade and most effiecient design solution, and the simplest solution. But I guess you already know that. well, I tip my hat to you sir. You really got this one right. Now if we can just get Ofna to make this center drive shaft update with the CVD at one end would just be awesome. Otherwise, we'll all have to send you our center drive axles and you'll be making a bundle of cash.
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Old 05-30-2010, 08:53 PM
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Default CVD modification for Hyper 9e center drive shaft. Excellent solution. Low Cost Fix.

Thank you for this Link H9_nutter,

Now I believe I can see how this modification could be done. I can use my Hudy Drive Pin Replacement Tool, that allow anyone to punch out the old 3mm drive pins, and punch or drive into place the new 3mm drive pin. I can simply push the pin out of the one end of the long one piece aluminum drive shaft on the Hyper 9e, and after buying this Hyper 9 nitro center CVD drive axle I can also punch one of those pins out of the CVD side, and once I have one drive pin missing from each piece(one from CVD and one from long one piece aluminum) I can connect the long aluminum drive shaft with the new CVD and drive a new 3mm x 14mm Drive pin into and though both parts holding them together as one. And though I said easily push the drive pin out, I imagine it's going to take quite a lot of presure to push that pin out, and even the new one in. You know, I bet if all of the RCtech forum members got together, if even just virtually; here, we could create quite a 1/8th scale buggy. But for now, we can just improve on the best one made, yet. Thank you again, for this link H9_nutter. and the link offers the CVD for only 13.oo dollars. That's very reasonable. Although the tool to replace the Drive Pin is allot more than that. but maybe there is other ways to drive those pins in and out? Oh, and the CVD has a nice big set screw that holds the CVD and also the aluminum drive shaft, to the front diff, just as the drive cup or outdrive use to before we replaced it with this new CVD. Once I've recieved this CVD, I'll also post pictures up of every aspect of the process of this modification. And I can offer to do this modification for others as well.



Originally Posted by H9_nutter View Post
The nitro now has a front shaft that has a universal on the front diff end and solved that problem. Have noticed the issue is not as bad for the nitro as the shaft is shorter but this is all that would be needed to solve the prob.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Hobao-Hyper-9...item2305e4d55d

Make one for the Elect Please!!!!
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Old 05-30-2010, 09:10 PM
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Hmmm, very good thinking MindThoughts. That idea is truly worthy of exploring it's full potential. Well, I will go old school by making the whole CVD front/dogbone rear center shaft in steel. I know that the rotational mass of the center shaft will increase but the benefits will outweigh the cons. I have access to a lathe so it will turn true. BTW, I already did this when I chewed up the aluminum end of the center shaft when I didn't put the proper spacer (fuel tubing LOL) up front. I only put it in the rear diff so it mangled the aluminum. It will be a very loooong center shaft when it's done....(it's still the same as the old one...)
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