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HoBao Hyper 9E thread

HoBao Hyper 9E thread

Old 05-15-2010, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by shano83 View Post
Snr any chance you could help me out with a carbon firbre front brace like brandons.I have started my conversion using the standard 9e engine mount so im gonna be looking for somewhere or someone to produce me a front brace.
Cheers
Sure I don't see a problem with that.
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Old 05-15-2010, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by snrscion View Post
Sure I don't see a problem with that.
Snr so how do you wanna work it.the brace im after is the same as Brandons
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Old 05-15-2010, 09:24 PM
  #1503  
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Default Installed Elite-RC Motor Mount in my Ofna Hyper 9e. + Fast Battery Change Idea/Design

I recieved my Elite-RC Motor Mount two days after ordering it online. I was extreemly excited about opening up the package when I recieved it. The Motor Mount looks sweet, and the Elite-RC stickers are also awesome(think I found some new colors to use for my next body paint job). The fit is exact. anyone that tries to compare this motor mount to the Losi motor mount definitely doesn't own one. Because I own three Losi 1/8th scale Buggies all Electric Conversions and all those motor mounts are loose and the material is cheep as can be. The Elite-RC motor mount fits exact and has a completely different feel to it. It's not hard to recognize quality, this is the highest quality I've seen. no play in any of the parts, at all. Every Hyper 9e owner should upgrade their buggies and use this motor mount. The Elite-RC motor mount replaces a trouble area on the Ofna Hyper 9e.

PS. I hope Brandon of Elite-RC designs his own buggy. I can only begin to imagine the quality and design of such an RC. I would buy one right away. Hopefully it would resemble the general layout of the Hyper 9e, but with much better parts all the way around. I'm talking about the Elite-RC way of designing. it would be one tight(drivetrain) 1/8th scale buggy.

PPS. so Brandon, now we need you to design a battery tray that allows us to change batteries in seconds, somewhat like the way a drill changes it's batteries. Pull into the pits, lift half the body(velcro) and release the dead battery, push button/click the fully charged battery into place and just locks into place. the battery tray would be a two part kit. one part fastens to the chassis. and your esc would plug into that part of the tray. The second part would velcro strap to the battery pack itself, and your battery would plug into that part. the two parts come together and the battery would make contact/power/connection is made(similar to the way a large drill battery makes it's connection) when the battery with strapped on part of tray is slid/locked into place onto the chassis part of the tray. This would allow battery packs to be changed almost or as fast as a nitro buggy refuels. People could buy several of the battery pack portions of the tray and already have them attached to the batteries and plugged into that peice. all that is remaining to do is lock the charged battery into place on the buggy, truggy or any other RC you wish to design such a part for.

The idea originally came to me from looking at my drill that allows for quick battery release and changes. except the battery portion of the RC design would be the part that we would strap onto our batteries(kind of like a battery tray within a battery tray, the two lock together and make battery contact power once connected together much the same way a portable drill battery makes it's connection with the drill itself once locked onto the drill).

Of course the designing of this part down to the micro detail is still allot of work, but the general idea seems to be one with merrit. I would certainly buy one. it would certainly make the indurance races more popular for the electric realm of RC raceing. If you go on to design this Brandon, I would like to be a part of the process, if possible. Unless of course you've already thought of this idea and this is just redundant information to you. Let me know if this idea for a quick change battery tray intrest you. I know you have a quick releast battery tray design, and it's awesome. but as you can see, this design is a little different, and allows "quick battery changes" to take place". in part because the battery would not have to be plugged in at the time of battery changing. the battery would already be plugged into the strap on part of the tray that stays with the battery at all times. this system could be adapted for all 1/8th scale buggies as well. seems to have promise. I'm intersted to know your thoughts on this Brandon. And any others thoughts here as well, that wish to comment on the idea. Pros and cons. Keep in mind that only the lightest and finnest materials would be used. so weight would not be an issue.
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Old 05-16-2010, 01:27 AM
  #1504  
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Originally Posted by MindThoughts View Post
I recieved my Elite-RC Motor Mount two days after ordering it online. I was extreemly excited about opening up the package when I recieved it. The Motor Mount looks sweet, and the Elite-RC stickers are also awesome(think I found some new colors to use for my next body paint job). The fit is exact. anyone that tries to compare this motor mount to the Losi motor mount definitely doesn't own one. Because I own three Losi 1/8th scale Buggies all Electric Conversions and all those motor mounts are loose and the material is cheep as can be. The Elite-RC motor mount fits exact and has a completely different feel to it. It's not hard to recognize quality, this is the highest quality I've seen. no play in any of the parts, at all. Every Hyper 9e owner should upgrade their buggies and use this motor mount. The Elite-RC motor mount replaces a trouble area on the Ofna Hyper 9e.

PS. I hope Brandon of Elite-RC designs his own buggy. I can only begin to imagine the quality and design of such an RC. I would buy one right away. Hopefully it would resemble the general layout of the Hyper 9e, but with much better parts all the way around. I'm talking about the Elite-RC way of designing. it would be one tight(drivetrain) 1/8th scale buggy.

PPS. so Brandon, now we need you to design a battery tray that allows us to change batteries in seconds, somewhat like the way a drill changes it's batteries. Pull into the pits, lift half the body(velcro) and release the dead battery, push button/click the fully charged battery into place and just locks into place. the battery tray would be a two part kit. one part fastens to the chassis. and your esc would plug into that part of the tray. The second part would velcro strap to the battery pack itself, and your battery would plug into that part. the two parts come together and the battery would make contact/power/connection is made(similar to the way a large drill battery makes it's connection) when the battery with strapped on part of tray is slid/locked into place onto the chassis part of the tray. This would allow battery packs to be changed almost or as fast as a nitro buggy refuels. People could buy several of the battery pack portions of the tray and already have them attached to the batteries and plugged into that peice. all that is remaining to do is lock the charged battery into place on the buggy, truggy or any other RC you wish to design such a part for.

The idea originally came to me from looking at my drill that allows for quick battery release and changes. except the battery portion of the RC design would be the part that we would strap onto our batteries(kind of like a battery tray within a battery tray, the two lock together and make battery contact power once connected together much the same way a portable drill battery makes it's connection with the drill itself once locked onto the drill).

Of course the designing of this part down to the micro detail is still allot of work, but the general idea seems to be one with merrit. I would certainly buy one. it would certainly make the indurance races more popular for the electric realm of RC raceing. If you go on to design this Brandon, I would like to be a part of the process, if possible. Unless of course you've already thought of this idea and this is just redundant information to you. Let me know if this idea for a quick change battery tray intrest you. I know you have a quick releast battery tray design, and it's awesome. but as you can see, this design is a little different, and allows "quick battery changes" to take place". in part because the battery would not have to be plugged in at the time of battery changing. the battery would already be plugged into the strap on part of the tray that stays with the battery at all times. this system could be adapted for all 1/8th scale buggies as well. seems to have promise. I'm intersted to know your thoughts on this Brandon. And any others thoughts here as well, that wish to comment on the idea. Pros and cons. Keep in mind that only the lightest and finnest materials would be used. so weight would not be an issue.
Thank you Joseph for your enthusiastic review I am glad my product met your expectations.. please post some pics when you have everything set up.
Regarding the battery tray, No comment as of now let's just say I've taken the mentality of Apple
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Old 05-16-2010, 03:53 AM
  #1505  
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Default Pictures coming soon. Elite-RC Motor Mount is now in my Hyper 9e.

I will take many detailed pictures and explain in great detail all the problems the Elite-RC motor mount does away with. Just remembering all the problems I had with my original Hyper 9e motor mount, just makes my head ache. I will have pictures up within the week.

PS. I look forward to buying many more Elite-RC Products. Thank you Brandon (Elite-RC).
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Old 05-16-2010, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by MindThoughts View Post
I will take many detailed pictures and explain in great detail all the problems the Elite-RC motor mount does away with. Just remembering all the problems I had with my original Hyper 9e motor mount, just makes my head ache. I will have pictures up within the week.

PS. I look forward to buying many more Elite-RC Products. Thank you Brandon (Elite-RC).
It would be great to hear of the probs brandons motor mount eliminates as i have purchased one.
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Old 05-16-2010, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by shano83 View Post
It would be great to hear of the probs brandons motor mount eliminates as i have purchased one.
not like its hard to drimmel a slot in your motor can, on the Tekin T8 anyway just takes the heat sink level off pretty much, doesn't effect motor and far cheaper


Has anyone tried out the new Rear B-Type Arms and the new shock tower?
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Old 05-16-2010, 04:45 AM
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[QUOTE=xDaRReLLx87;7410742]not like its hard to drimmel a slot in your motor can, on the Tekin T8 anyway just takes the heat sink level off pretty much, doesn't effect motor and far cheaper

Sorry but what do you mean by that.I must be having a blonde moment or just too thick lol
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Old 05-16-2010, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by shano83 View Post
Sorry but what do you mean by that.I must be having a blonde moment or just too thick lol
With a Castle or Tekin motor, your can is so large that it hits the outdrive of the center shaft, when using the stock 14t. So what do you do, you drimmell a slot on the can where it would hit the outdrive thus fitting it.


This car drives well but seems to require these parts:


New Front arms, which are same part # but better made.
B-Type Rear arms and shock tower
aluminum anti-squat holder
Rubber Gear Box Galoshes

apparently you need at least 40wt oil in the shocks and a small shock stopper along with rubber out-drive covers to stop breaking the dogbones, dirt can get in the outdrive limiting how far the bone can go which can also lead to bending.

All the other upgrade aluminum parts really are a WASTE and also add a fair bit more weight.

Such a shame that the stock parts and shock oil can lead to breaking front arms and dogbones
I mean landing on the back side of a jump should not bend it lol least ofna has stronger arms now
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:13 AM
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on the older front end of the OG hyper 9 you had to dremmel out the out drives a little ...so at full compression of the shock the dogbones/driveshafts dont hit the edge of the out drive cup...

its an easy fix ...i would not use bump stops or use thicker oil to prevent this ...use droop and oil to tune the chassis not fix a binding problem
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Old 05-16-2010, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by xDaRReLLx87 View Post
not like its hard to drimmel a slot in your motor can, on the Tekin T8 anyway just takes the heat sink level off pretty much, doesn't effect motor and far cheaper
So does this mean the Elite RC motor mount allows you to run the 14t or 15t pinion without having to make any modifications?
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Old 05-16-2010, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by MindThoughts View Post

PPS. so Brandon, now we need you to design a battery tray that allows us to change batteries in seconds,
They used Quick-Charge battery trays as early as the mid 80 on R/C enduro oval tracks
I first saw it in RCCA August '89 from lake whippowille (spelling)

I used a similar system around 95 at a 24hour mini Lee Mans
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Old 05-16-2010, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by rkhess View Post
its an easy fix ...i would not use bump stops or use thicker oil to prevent this ...use droop and oil to tune the chassis not fix a binding problem
+1

Also, it doesn't matter which motor mount you use, the can size of your motor determines how small of a pinion you can use. Grinding away some of the motor can is required on some motors like the tekin because the car was designed to use a 36mm motor like the novak or speed passion.

With regards to the CNC upgrades available for this car, I think all of them help in some way, some more than others. All cars of this level have shortcomings, so it's just a matter of picking your poison. That being said, I don't think there are any major problems with this car, and the overall performance makes up for all the minor ones.

Lets face it, If you're into 1/8th scale electric, you can't be cheap about it.
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by xDaRReLLx87 View Post
not like its hard to drimmel a slot in your motor can, on the Tekin T8 anyway just takes the heat sink level off pretty much, doesn't effect motor and far cheaper


Has anyone tried out the new Rear B-Type Arms and the new shock tower?
Yes I have the B-Type tower and arms. IMO it make the care more stable and rotate around the corner a lot better.
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by xDaRReLLx87 View Post

This car drives well but seems to require these parts:


New Front arms, which are same part # but better made.
B-Type Rear arms and shock tower
aluminum anti-squat holder
Rubber Gear Box Galoshes

apparently you need at least 40wt oil in the shocks and a small shock stopper along with rubber out-drive covers to stop breaking the dogbones, dirt can get in the outdrive limiting how far the bone can go which can also lead to bending.

All the other upgrade aluminum parts really are a WASTE and also add a fair bit more weight.

Such a shame that the stock parts and shock oil can lead to breaking front arms and dogbones
I mean landing on the back side of a jump should not bend it lol least ofna has stronger arms now
These issues are kind of a downer on what seems like an amazing performing buggy. Looking at the RC8Be, while less balanced, I don't know of any upgrades needed for durability.
Are the latest kits coming with the updated parts (front and rear arms, rear shock tower)?
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