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Old 03-25-2009, 02:59 PM   #1
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what break on a xxx-t??? im gettin one instead of a t4 so i can stay all losi cars.ill be racinf it and want spares
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Old 03-25-2009, 03:08 PM   #2
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what break on a xxx-t??? im gettin one instead of a t4 so i can stay all losi cars.ill be racinf it and want spares
Ball studs, to fix this just get some ball studs and instead of using washers just install an actual nut on the ball stud instead with red loctite of course. this will keep them from flexing thus causing them to break.

Get Graphite Front and Rear arms for sure!!!! The arms are long and the EA3 plastic breaks rather easily, the graphite is better. I break ea3 if I land off a jump on one tire per say whereas the graphite does not. I doubt you'd seriously crash it hard enough to break the Graphite parts.

Heard complaints about the rear hubs breaking but not to many people complain about this.

My friend's setup for the XXX-T is stellar , I'd gladly give it to you if you want. Your track may be a little bit different, I bet you can come up with a good setup as well I got my XXX-CR turning better than RC10B4 and the Hotbodies one.
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Old 03-25-2009, 03:40 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by xDaRReLLx87 View Post
Ball studs, to fix this just get some ball studs and instead of using washers just install an actual nut on the ball stud instead with red loctite of course. this will keep them from flexing thus causing them to break.

Get Graphite Front and Rear arms for sure!!!! The arms are long and the EA3 plastic breaks rather easily, the graphite is better. I break ea3 if I land off a jump on one tire per say whereas the graphite does not. I doubt you'd seriously crash it hard enough to break the Graphite parts.

Heard complaints about the rear hubs breaking but not to many people complain about this.

My friend's setup for the XXX-T is stellar , I'd gladly give it to you if you want. Your track may be a little bit different, I bet you can come up with a good setup as well I got my XXX-CR turning better than RC10B4 and the Hotbodies one.

thank,its actually the xxx-t not the cr so it already has the graphite
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Old 03-25-2009, 03:45 PM   #4
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thank,its actually the xxx-t not the cr so it already has the graphite
ahh, well I would upgrade to the XXX-T CR ball cups, as I've seen those loop designed ones break rather easily. but anywhere you use washers under your ball studs just use a nut the same height as the number of washers and use that. Depending on what type of motor and battery you use you may have to change the gearing for it to ensure correct engine temp

I would however invest in EA3 shock towers so you'd have more adjustments on your truck for the track
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Old 03-25-2009, 03:54 PM   #5
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I carry F/R arms, extra ball studs/ball cups, turnbuckles and misc screws. I have not had any problems with the Q/C hubs or ball studs but did break a rear turn buckle and upgraded them to Lundsford.
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Old 03-25-2009, 04:00 PM   #6
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I carry F/R arms, extra ball studs/ball cups, turnbuckles and misc screws. I have not had any problems with the Q/C hubs or ball studs but did break a rear turn buckle and upgraded them to Lundsford.
Meh even the lundsford bend and break, I usually just get the AE blue turnbuckles to the appropriate length measurement. My ballstud mod will help them from breaking. I even cook them @ 800F for 30 mins to make them less brittle along with putting a larger nut at right height with Red Loctite, this really solves the ball-stud problem!! I never seen anyone break a truck with graphite parts unless they did something really stupid like thinking their truck is man

I'd suggest putting a Caste Creations Sidewinder 5700kv in the truck. I would change the throttle curve to a smooth transition where most of the power doesn't come in till about 80% and you can adjust your EPA on your radio.
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Old 03-25-2009, 05:05 PM   #7
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I've seen you post a few times about baking your ballstuds at 800F...

What kind of oven do you have in your house that goes that high??! Most household ovens top out at 500F.


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Old 03-25-2009, 05:38 PM   #8
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I've seen you post a few times about baking your ballstuds at 800F...

What kind of oven do you have in your house that goes that high??! Most household ovens top out at 500F.


Jerome
I just use a toaster oven for that very reason
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Old 03-25-2009, 08:51 PM   #9
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Hey fellas, i was wondering if a "2 Deg" pivot block is the right choice or should i be using the "0 DEG"... thanks for the replies it is a Matt Francis Truck...

I have the 2 deg trinity block on it now when i come out of a corner it just wants to spin out... Any Help greatly appreciated...Thanks
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Old 03-26-2009, 02:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xDaRReLLx87 View Post
ahh, well I would upgrade to the XXX-T CR ball cups, as I've seen those loop designed ones break rather easily. but anywhere you use washers under your ball studs just use a nut the same height as the number of washers and use that. Depending on what type of motor and battery you use you may have to change the gearing for it to ensure correct engine temp

I would however invest in EA3 shock towers so you'd have more adjustments on your truck for the track
i will look into that thanks, electric truck is big around here i race at srs in az so we have some knowledgeable people here



Quote:
Originally Posted by trx450racer174 View Post
I carry F/R arms, extra ball studs/ball cups, turnbuckles and misc screws. I have not had any problems with the Q/C hubs or ball studs but did break a rear turn buckle and upgraded them to Lundsford.
thats what i was thinkin of carrying. thanks


i have a castle sidewinder 4600kv and a 2s thunderpower 40c lipo, i know its not the best but i just got it for my slash and am going back to stock on the slash will it go good in the xxx-t till i get a better system
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Old 03-27-2009, 12:58 AM   #11
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how much weight do u put on and where
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