motor keeps cutting out
03-22-2009, 06:54 AM
#1
motor keeps cutting out
Hi everyone i seem to be having some trouble, my motor keeps cutting out or the esc does
every so often, whilst im driiving it wont go forwards or backwards and i'll have to move the wheels left and right to get it going again, same thing happens when i crash too
the battery is brand new and so is the motor so could it be the esc?
any ideas? thanks!
every so often, whilst im driiving it wont go forwards or backwards and i'll have to move the wheels left and right to get it going again, same thing happens when i crash too
the battery is brand new and so is the motor so could it be the esc?
any ideas? thanks!
03-22-2009, 09:22 AM
#2
what radio are you using? it might be the esc and it might be a defective motor but i can't say for sure are you running brushless or brushed are you using 2.4ghz radios or 27/75mhz radios you got to include that in your post
post it here and people will tell you i will help too lol
post it here and people will tell you i will help too lol
03-22-2009, 02:33 PM
#3
crawlerguy is right, could be any of the above. We would need more info. Which vehicle, radio, ESC & motor? Brushed or brushless?
But one thing I can think of off hand. Try taking a look at the LED on the ESC. Normally, the ESC is one color when the car is not moving, then goes out at partial throttle, and back on at full throttle. (Check to see what the order is when working to know what is normal.) When failure occurs, check to see if pulling the throttle makes the ESC light up normally. If it does, I'd think the radio & ESC are working, and look at the motor.
Also, when you say 'moving wheels left & right to get it going again' are you talking about the front wheels or rear wheels? This part of your explanation confuses me. Do you mean your pushing the car forward and backward? Because if that's what you mean, and you have a brushed motor, you probably have a brush hanging up.
But one thing I can think of off hand. Try taking a look at the LED on the ESC. Normally, the ESC is one color when the car is not moving, then goes out at partial throttle, and back on at full throttle. (Check to see what the order is when working to know what is normal.) When failure occurs, check to see if pulling the throttle makes the ESC light up normally. If it does, I'd think the radio & ESC are working, and look at the motor.
Also, when you say 'moving wheels left & right to get it going again' are you talking about the front wheels or rear wheels? This part of your explanation confuses me. Do you mean your pushing the car forward and backward? Because if that's what you mean, and you have a brushed motor, you probably have a brush hanging up.
03-22-2009, 03:03 PM
#4
sorry im kinda new to all this if you haven't guessed already 
but anyway i managed to find out what you've asked.
it is a duratrax evader st;
radio is 27mhz
brushed Hackmoto 15 turn 540 motor
duratrax sprint electronic speed control w/Reverse
and by moving wheels left & right i mean steering the front left and right
and the esc lights have a mind of their own, i think part throttle is green then greend and red together
and when the motor stops working by itself i.e cutting out its green for a few seconds then it goes blank
but anyway i managed to find out what you've asked.
it is a duratrax evader st;
radio is 27mhz
brushed Hackmoto 15 turn 540 motor
duratrax sprint electronic speed control w/Reverse
and by moving wheels left & right i mean steering the front left and right
and the esc lights have a mind of their own, i think part throttle is green then greend and red together
and when the motor stops working by itself i.e cutting out its green for a few seconds then it goes blank
03-22-2009, 05:21 PM
#5
That's alright. When it comes to troubleshooting here, you have to lay out the scenario since we are not standing beside you.
Okay, now back to your problem.
The turning the front wheels left & right and it starts working still doesn't make sense to me. But I still suspect the motor before the ESC. Motors have moving parts (armature) and wear items (brushes). The speed control is all electronics.
I am not familiar with the Hackmoto motor. When you look at the motor where the wires connect, do you see only holes or slots to see inside the motor (closed endbell motor) or can you see springs and a wire that goes inside a rectangle hood on either side (springs look like a really small wire that wraps around a post a few times and is held by a hook on the hood that the wire goes into). The second is a motor that can be disassembled and brushes & springs are replaceable.
How long have you run the motor without any maintenance?
Do you have a Local Hobby Shop (LHS) around that you may be able to purchase parts from, talk to, get help from?
If you have a closed endbell motor, all you can do is try spraying it out with an electronic motor friendly spray. Do not use just anything. The spray should come from a hobby shop, or I've seen Electric Motor sprays (says on the can made specifically for electric motors on the can) at Meijers or Automotive Parts store too. Spray thoroughly into all holes in the motor while holding over a trash can. Tilt so overspray doesn't coat the rest of the vehicle as this just makes a mess. (I recommend removing the motor from the vehicle.) If that doesn't resolve the issue, and you've run the motor for quite awhile, it may be time for a new motor. Beware your ESC's motor limits when shopping for a replacement. (Hopefully you have the manual for the ESC or the vehicle if it's a ready to run. The info is there I'm sure.)
If the springs are exposed, you may be able to 'rebuild' the motor, if it isn't too old. I'm figuring since your asking here, you haven't had to do this, so I'd highly recommend consulting the LHS for help replacing brushes, checking springs & possible comm cutting. They may have nominal fees for these services. (They can't work for free...)
Okay, now back to your problem.
The turning the front wheels left & right and it starts working still doesn't make sense to me. But I still suspect the motor before the ESC. Motors have moving parts (armature) and wear items (brushes). The speed control is all electronics.
I am not familiar with the Hackmoto motor. When you look at the motor where the wires connect, do you see only holes or slots to see inside the motor (closed endbell motor) or can you see springs and a wire that goes inside a rectangle hood on either side (springs look like a really small wire that wraps around a post a few times and is held by a hook on the hood that the wire goes into). The second is a motor that can be disassembled and brushes & springs are replaceable.
How long have you run the motor without any maintenance?
Do you have a Local Hobby Shop (LHS) around that you may be able to purchase parts from, talk to, get help from?
If you have a closed endbell motor, all you can do is try spraying it out with an electronic motor friendly spray. Do not use just anything. The spray should come from a hobby shop, or I've seen Electric Motor sprays (says on the can made specifically for electric motors on the can) at Meijers or Automotive Parts store too. Spray thoroughly into all holes in the motor while holding over a trash can. Tilt so overspray doesn't coat the rest of the vehicle as this just makes a mess. (I recommend removing the motor from the vehicle.) If that doesn't resolve the issue, and you've run the motor for quite awhile, it may be time for a new motor. Beware your ESC's motor limits when shopping for a replacement. (Hopefully you have the manual for the ESC or the vehicle if it's a ready to run. The info is there I'm sure.)
If the springs are exposed, you may be able to 'rebuild' the motor, if it isn't too old. I'm figuring since your asking here, you haven't had to do this, so I'd highly recommend consulting the LHS for help replacing brushes, checking springs & possible comm cutting. They may have nominal fees for these services. (They can't work for free...)
03-23-2009, 12:23 PM
#6
the motor is brand new, about 1-2 weeks old with only a few hours use
here is some info i found out on the motor for you
and i think the motor is a 15turn and th esc is 20turn, could this be causing the problem?
theres is a local hobby shop nearby which is where i got the motor from, they're ordering a new spur gear for me because it has a few teeth missing, but thats another problem
thanks for the help so far
here is some info i found out on the motor for you
Motor features: New Machine wound Armature Dynamically balanced . Heavy-duty solder tabs High Power treated brushes Large endbell internal fan Maximise heat dissipation RPM: 32,000 Current: 16A Voltage: 7.2v
theres is a local hobby shop nearby which is where i got the motor from, they're ordering a new spur gear for me because it has a few teeth missing, but thats another problem
thanks for the help so far
03-23-2009, 12:36 PM
#7
Tech Apprentice
If the speedo is only rated to a 20 turn and the motor is 15 turn you are probably generating a ton of heat in the speed controll and it is thermalling (getting too hot) (sp). I would change to a motor that is above that 20turn asap. if you dont you will ruin the speed controller.
03-23-2009, 12:56 PM
#8
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: anywhere I can race 2wd dirt,and 1/12 onroad in MI.
Posts: 3,891
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Yep.When the Manufacturers say a speedo is a 20t speedo they mean that is its limit.As in if you use anything hotter than their recommendations it is at your own risk.Meaning you will probally fry it.
another question; are you still using the white tamiya style battery connectors??
if you are those things get sloppy fast , and when they do , allit takes is a small bump and you lose power.If you can turn the front wheels by hand and the steering servo moves, this is probally what is happening.regardless you either need a motor that the esc can handle or an esc that can handle that motor. Because if you keep running that motor esc combo you WILL fry that esc.
another question; are you still using the white tamiya style battery connectors??
if you are those things get sloppy fast , and when they do , allit takes is a small bump and you lose power.If you can turn the front wheels by hand and the steering servo moves, this is probally what is happening.regardless you either need a motor that the esc can handle or an esc that can handle that motor. Because if you keep running that motor esc combo you WILL fry that esc.
03-23-2009, 01:36 PM
#9
hmmmm i reckon i will just change the esc then, is it a hard job to do? can you recommend one? nothing to technical just something i can fit and forget
and i am still using the tamiya style battery connectors, what can i use as an alternative?
and i am still using the tamiya style battery connectors, what can i use as an alternative?
03-24-2009, 12:35 PM
#10
Tech Apprentice
as for esc this depends on what your doing with the veh. if you a racing or bashing.
I would switch to the deans connectors and if possible do a brushless system then you wont have to worry about maintnece any more. and youll have a ton more power
I would switch to the deans connectors and if possible do a brushless system then you wont have to worry about maintnece any more. and youll have a ton more power
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
