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Old 03-20-2009, 07:55 AM   #46
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My standing on the battery is that I see companies making batteries that aren't that bad of price out there. The one that I've stated before that stands out in my mind is the SMC pack that is coming out this month. It's a 4S1P 40c (conservatively rated could be 50c) battery for $180. That's a LOT of battery for the money. The guys at my tracks have $120 2S batteries in their 1/10 vehicles. So, although I see that pack as more money it is cost effective and reasonable considering the reward you'll have driving an 1/8 class buggy and being able to race at a large percentage of the tracks in the U.S.
I don't think I could pay 120$ for a 2S battery. Not when Yeah racing & TrueRC both have 5000Mah hard cases for under 80$ shipped ....4000Mah even cheaper.
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:47 AM   #47
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I have to go with 1/8th electric all the way. I have raced just about every class that it is out there, onroad and offroad. I just enjoy running the 1/8th scale buggies so much more. I like the speed and handling of the 1/10th 4wd's but they are soooo fragile!!! I have had 4wd electrics dating back to the Turbo Optima and they have all basically had the same problem, to weak for anything except well groomed tracks. Tracks are catering to larger scale cars these days and it is just easier to run a larger scale car on a track that is meant for larger scale stuff. I held out for a long time and raced my XX-4 and XXX-4 on these tracks with other classes including 1/8th scale stuff, but the fight was futile. Even with good driving I was breaking stuff left and right because of the increased size the the jumps and stuff on the tracks. Now that I have my converted RC8 I haven't even bothered to fix my XXX-4 since its last run in the fall. Now I can run on tracks built for 1/8 buggies and monster trucks and have no worries about how many parts I will have to replace each day.
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:52 AM   #48
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I don't think I could pay 120$ for a 2S battery. Not when Yeah racing & TrueRC both have 5000Mah hard cases for under 80$ shipped ....4000Mah even cheaper.


$120 is cheap for good batteries. The old matched race Nimh would run upwards of 80 to 100 and last maybe 3 months before they were average. My lipo has run over 1 year and in 10th scale I have really lost nothing. I use the same battery in a vehicle all day long. So the cost of batteries in lipo compared to the old school is not really even a discussion. It is much cheaper.

My 8th scale has 2 10th scale packes. $200. I can do the same with them that I do in my 10th scale. 1 set will get me though all my races with recharging. 2 sets would be nice but 1 is more then enough. So far other cost are not bad. I have done things in the 8th that would be breaking parts in my 10th. So I think in the long run the 8th scale will end up around the same cost. It is like most other products. You pay more up front for itmes that tend to last.
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:58 AM   #49
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I have to go with 1/8th electric all the way. I have raced just about every class that it is out there, onroad and offroad. I just enjoy running the 1/8th scale buggies so much more. I like the speed and handling of the 1/10th 4wd's but they are soooo fragile!!! I have had 4wd electrics dating back to the Turbo Optima and they have all basically had the same problem, to weak for anything except well groomed tracks. Tracks are catering to larger scale cars these days and it is just easier to run a larger scale car on a track that is meant for larger scale stuff. I held out for a long time and raced my XX-4 and XXX-4 on these tracks with other classes including 1/8th scale stuff, but the fight was futile. Even with good driving I was breaking stuff left and right because of the increased size the the jumps and stuff on the tracks. Now that I have my converted RC8 I haven't even bothered to fix my XXX-4 since its last run in the fall. Now I can run on tracks built for 1/8 buggies and monster trucks and have no worries about how many parts I will have to replace each day.

I have a feeling I will be going down the same path soon. I am getting a XXX-4 delivered soon, and will see how that does, as my local track also run's 1/8th scale on the same track. It's a clay blue grove, so traction is high, but will see how parts breakage and the reliability of the vehicle does for me. It's a used buggy, but has all the needed upgrades for durability, so should be ok out of the box.

I can see myself getting a Caster RTR and swapping out the Rx for Spektrum for 500ish in the future ......

But for now I will try 1/10th....it was a minimal investment (under 200$ so far) for the buggy, spare parts, 5 full sets of tires, etc.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:06 AM   #50
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$120 is cheap for good batteries. The old matched race Nimh would run upwards of 80 to 100 and last maybe 3 months before they were average. My lipo has run over 1 year and in 10th scale I have really lost nothing. I use the same battery in a vehicle all day long. So the cost of batteries in lipo compared to the old school is not really even a discussion. It is much cheaper.
Just curious...what capacity are you looking at for 120$? That also determines the price. I was thinking of 4000-5000Mah. If you are talking about 6400 or 8000Mah, 120$ seems a little more appropriate....
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:46 AM   #51
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/23926

This is a common battery I see along with trackpower batteries that are about $10 cheaper. You have to understand as well, those are much lower C rating batteries for that much. I'm trying to compare a quality 4S pack to a quality 2S pack but the 2S packs are typically lower C rating. SMC does have the 40C packs for 2S and well and Thunder Power but they are even more expensive than $120. I was trying to have a fair comparison.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:54 AM   #52
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I get the feeling from the majority of your post on this thread,and pardon my ignorance here if I am off based,but the 2 classes you are considering here are not really the classes for you.4wd mod or e-1/8.Your choices in equipment,which is in the case in anything in life,is that you get what you pay for.If 120 dollars is too much for a quality pack,then this is the wrong class or possibly hobby for you.I know very few people who would settle on inferior or antiquated equipment if they are racing.I have a racing budget and rarely buy things that I don't need,but at this level of class,buying items that will be competitive and will last is important to me and to most people who race these classes.
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I don't think I could pay 120$ for a 2S battery. Not when Yeah racing & TrueRC both have 5000Mah hard cases for under 80$ shipped ....4000Mah even cheaper.
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Originally Posted by y2kgtp View Post
Just curious...what capacity are you looking at for 120$? That also determines the price. I was thinking of 4000-5000Mah. If you are talking about 6400 or 8000Mah, 120$ seems a little more appropriate....
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:56 AM   #53
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I have seen the SMC 40c and Thunderpower 40c for about 125.00,so not really that much over the pricepoint of 120.00.Worth every penny too.
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/23926

This is a common battery I see along with trackpower batteries that are about $10 cheaper. You have to understand as well, those are much lower C rating batteries for that much. I'm trying to compare a quality 4S pack to a quality 2S pack but the 2S packs are typically lower C rating. SMC does have the 40C packs for 2S and well and Thunder Power but they are even more expensive than $120. I was trying to have a fair comparison.
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:03 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by racenut123 View Post
I have seen the SMC 40c and Thunderpower 40c for about 125.00,so not really that much over the pricepoint of 120.00.Worth every penny too.

That is a good price for a 40c. I know those are the two companies that are really putting forth an effort in making quality cells for our lipos. They are much smaller than other companies packs with more to offer being they are 40c packs. I am mainly talking about 4S packs as that is where most of my research has been.
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:14 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by racenut123 View Post
I get the feeling from the majority of your post on this thread,and pardon my ignorance here if I am off based,but the 2 classes you are considering here are not really the classes for you.4wd mod or e-1/8.Your choices in equipment,which is in the case in anything in life,is that you get what you pay for.If 120 dollars is too much for a quality pack,then this is the wrong class or possibly hobby for you.I know very few people who would settle on inferior or antiquated equipment if they are racing.I have a racing budget and rarely buy things that I don't need,but at this level of class,buying items that will be competitive and will last is important to me and to most people who race these classes.
I am a cheap bastard, and I admit that.

I am going to try out 1/10th 4WD shortly, as my buggy has not shown up yet. I picked a XXX-4 so I could use the same batteries I use for my Truck. ProTek 4000Mah 30C's from A Main. Think I paid 60$ each for them, now they have the hard case for 20$ more or so. Work fine for me. Just local club racing.

If I like the class, but want to change the buggy in the future, i don't want to be "stuck" with the top of the line stick packs, as I might switch to saddle style depending on the buggy.

I don't think the batteries matter as much in the 1/10th class as they do in the 1/8th class due to the current they have to pull to get the buggy moving.

I'm sure people will argue this fact, but i don't think the differences are as drastic as the batteries from the 80's and 90's......I cringe on what I used to dump on 6-8 matched\zapped packs for a season, just to replace 6-12 months later when newer\better stuff came out.
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Old 03-20-2009, 01:37 PM   #56
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I would agree that you get what you pay for (most of the time). However, I've found a great deal on Intellect 3800 35C+ Lipos just like Trinity sells. THey are only $58.00... It's tough to say if the C rating is inflated, but I've been running them for a while and you can't beat the bang for the buck.

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=4817
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Old 03-20-2009, 02:57 PM   #57
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the reason I enjoy running 10th scale isnt because of the cost or how fast they go. It's because witha 10th scale you cant drive wide open everywhere and expect to finish a race. You cant come into a turn and take someone out then keep going half the time like you can with the larger 8th scales. You have to take your time pick your lines, wait for your pases and make them clean.

With 8th scale most of the time you will have some drivers who think they are better than they actually are and will race you to every corner and take you out half of the time because they are more durable.
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Old 03-20-2009, 03:19 PM   #58
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4wd rc cars are definitely my favorite to run. On road I run a 1/10 tc and a 1/12, the tc is by far my favorite on road car. Off road I used to run 1/10 2wd buggy and 4wd buggy, the 4wd was my favorite. Now I sold my 2wd and I bought a 1/8e. Between my b44 and my rc8 though, it is hard to pick my favorite. The 1/10 takes a little more skill to pilot well, but the 1/8 just brings a big grin to my face with the amount of power it has. I'm lucky enough to have enough racers in both classes to enjoy some fun competition so I don't have to worry about choosing to run based on that. If I had to choose one over the other it would be a very hard choice and it would be situational dependent. I couldn't just say I going to x track and am going to run x car, I would have to get there and decide based on which class has higher competition and that would be the class I race in. The track could be an 1/8 track but if that class has a bunch of hacks and I could easily take first, whereas the 1/10 4wd has a bunch of competition where the difference between first and fifth is a matter of seconds, then the choice would easily be to run the 1/10. If there is a fair amount of competition in both classes then I would choose the car that goes with the track the most. But regardless, so long as I can race multiple classes, I would race both. If I were in the market to buy one or the other, I would by the one that has the most competition in its class where I normally race.

Now to the cost issue. These cars are race cars, racing isn't cheap. Not much more to say on that. Now I'm not saying you need top of the line equipment, but I honestly would not skimp on batteries when it comes to the 1/8. You may get by with cheap batteries, or you might be one of the unlucky people who fry their esc because of them. Just get quality packs and don't rely on luck.
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Old 03-20-2009, 07:00 PM   #59
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My 8th scale tires lasted me about at least 40-50 runs at OCRC and they still had half tread on them. They were revolvers but the track is smaller also and hard packed. I had to stop using them because on one of the tires the bead ripped off i used them so much. On my t4 tires(holeshots) i only got around 20 runs which is still pretty good. In my opinion 8th scale tires might be more expensive at first, but from what I have seen, if you choose the right tire they last longer than 10th scale.
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Old 03-23-2009, 04:42 PM   #60
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Some of the problem with 1/8 buggy tire wear has to do with the driver (imagine that). It's the same in all classes but for some reason there are 1/8 buggy drivers out there that could care less how smooth they are and do not realize they are shooting themselves in the foot by hammering on it out of every corner. I know I can get a set of 1/8 buggy tires to last a long time. I adjust my engine/clutch and driving style according to what I need. My experience with 1/10 4wd is from at least 5 years ago and my driving and equipment have come a long ways since then. I just remember bringing brand new tires to the track and burning them up by the main and was pretty bummed.
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