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Team Associated RC8Te Thread

Old 04-13-2012, 11:48 PM
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Oh im still using the 50t spur as well. 50/16 on my T8 2000kv. Im considering going up a tooth on the pinion, and pulling some timing from the RX8... but it works so well and im so used to the powerband id hate to eff with it. lol
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
I still run plastic chassis braces front and rear but i got tried of the flexing on the plastic rear camber ends and the rear hubs so i boiled them . So lets say i use the 40w on the front shocks with the stock shock pistons and use the bronze springs whould that keep the front end more leveled ?
Level where... over jumps or... on throttle...?
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
The 46t spur is just crazy lol i would only use the 48t or the 50t if you dont care about the axle angle or how high it sits im not sure if you really need to use the Diff plate though for it.

For longer runtime a 48/14 or a 13t pinion whould give you the most runtime but other things factor into that though.

I used to 50t spur before on my Associated conversion kit and for some reason it keep on unglueing my tires so i stoped running it.

Im doing some cheap mods to drop more weight on the Tekno v4 chassis its just a heavy bastard lol. But handles much better than the Associated conversion kit easier to drive it seems like .


Kroggs: Thats what i would do man.
I know exactly what you mean about that 50 spur... I orderd a 48 to try out and see what that does!!! Right now I have more then enough speed and plenty of low end!!!! Maybe I should drop down to some 20c lipos vs the 40/80s I have now Or maybe a 3s Then I might be able to control this beast!!!!

Zang I won't have any info on the light weight parts till later this year as thats when the search for a buggy will start do to funding, unless I do some research and find the answer!!!
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:53 PM
  #544  
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Level where... over jumps or... on throttle...?

over the jumps on throttle. I race with somebody who runs a Rc8t also and he was telling me about using a little drag brake. So in the air it whoulnt point up in the air everytime and be more level yea im not sure about that lol.
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kroggs
Maybe I should drop down to some 20c lipos...
You mention that and i have two packs of 28c 2s i wanna pull apart and make into a 4s and see how it reacts. Supposedly the burst rating is too low for the amount of power the motor needs... but theres one way to find out!

Dont get me wrong i love all that rip... but for fast laps you really dont need it. I got a 1900 for my 8B... but im wishin i got a 1700 instead...
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Oh im still using the 50t spur as well. 50/16 on my T8 2000kv. Im considering going up a tooth on the pinion, and pulling some timing from the RX8... but it works so well and im so used to the powerband id hate to eff with it. lol
Dave what are your diff fluids at? I do run a smaller track with more accelerating Vs high speed straighs and find I have to much power still with my radio turned down to 75%... I have same esc/motor setup as you and still have a hint of lift off in the front end over small bumps and hard throttle input...

Thanks guys
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
You mention that and i have two packs of 28c 2s i wanna pull apart and make into a 4s and see how it reacts. Supposedly the burst rating is too low for the amount of power the motor needs... but theres one way to find out!

Dont get me wrong i love all that rip... but for fast laps you really dont need it. I got a 1900 for my 8B... but im wishin i got a 1700 instead...
Yep I belive Randy P. said atleast 30c is what the Tekin setup should be running... He also said some where he used a truggy motor in his buggy!!! Hmmm which one!!

With all the power and speed in the 2000kv I have no Idea what to put in the buggy when I get it.. My brother inlaw has the 2050 buggy motor and you can tell the differences but I still think I will go lower kv... I originally was going to get the 1750?? Truggy motor but was waiting for them to come in stock and seen a 2000 so I picked it up.
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
over the jumps on throttle. I race with somebody who runs a Rc8t also and he was telling me about using a little drag brake. So in the air it whoulnt point up in the air everytime and be more level yea im not sure about that lol.
Yeah i run a lil drag brake to help bring the nose down... but thats also why i use the outer shock hole on the rear tower with the front in the middle.

The front bronze spring will let you come into a corner as hot as you want... providing the grip is there and the tires dont break free. IMO its downfall is how much/quick the rear squats when you get on the throttle.

So i settled on silver F/R and then changed upper rear shock positions to help control all that on power squat (without changing my rear antisquat). It also helped the truck jump much better (flatter).

I liked the black front spring with the silver rear spring... but the front washes out hard if i have to use push brake to avoid indecisive traffic. I even had one of the coils overlap the last coil on the bottom of the spring. It might just be too soft.

Silver front and bronze rear was awesome... when there was traction for it. lol It was the best of both worlds (jumping/squat control), but created a random loss of rear grip on slippery spots. I was also on 30wt oil then with longer rear camber links. Maybe i will go back and try that again with my most recent changes... but that combo had all kindsa of forward bite and was less likely to wheelie. It would lift the front up about two inches and i could just lay into the throttle and hold on to the wheel... all balls and brawn.

The tough thing is finding the sweet spot where your chassis transfers weight, and match that to the diff fluids so you dont have faster/slower weight transfer than you do power transfer.

Kinda like letting a clutch out on a real car with the engine idling while youre doing 60mph through a corner. In a rwd car... the sudden shock to the driveline will likely break rear traction and send you into a spin. In a fwd car it will bring the nose down really hard and cause you to push up out of the groove.

If your center diff and front diff oil are too thick, and your suspension is so soft that the weight transfers really fast... the diff combo will cause your tires to break traction coming into a corner because it cant match the speed of the suspension.

So theres a balance there, but it also has to deal with the excessive power we are putting into these monsters. Soo... IMO... a little less power and you can have a softer diff setup to match the softer suspension for less than grippy tracks. On grooved or loamy high bite surfaces... thicker diffs, slower suspension action, more power can be used.

Sorry... just typing out crap that runs through my head as i decide what to add to my rear diff tonight... lol
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by kroggs
Dave what are your diff fluids at? I do run a smaller track with more accelerating Vs high speed straighs and find I have to much power still with my radio turned down to 75%... I have same esc/motor setup as you and still have a hint of lift off in the front end over small bumps and hard throttle input...

Thanks guys
75% on the throttle endpoints (EPA)?

Truggy fluids right now are 7/10/3. Ive tried 5 in the front and rear, and 15 and 7 in the center. 15 center flat out sucked on my track. 7 center didnt give me the oomph i was looking for... or maybe had become used to with 10. 5 in the front made it feel nervous on power over ruts (on our track ruts are dry footprints left from when people walk on it when its wet... some as much as a few inches deep) and 5 in the rear did the same thing.

When i say on power... i run 100% on my motor EPA. I may add -5% expo to the trigger, but thats to help get the truggy around slow speed 180's. When i bury the trigger im using all of it... so hitting stuff like those footprints cause the tires to grab in various directions other than straight. The rest is wheelwork with a fast servo...
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Yeah i run a lil drag brake to help bring the nose down... but thats also why i use the outer shock hole on the rear tower with the front in the middle.

The front bronze spring will let you come into a corner as hot as you want... providing the grip is there and the tires dont break free. IMO its downfall is how much/quick the rear squats when you get on the throttle.

So i settled on silver F/R and then changed upper rear shock positions to help control all that on power squat (without changing my rear antisquat). It also helped the truck jump much better (flatter).

I liked the black front spring with the silver rear spring... but the front washes out hard if i have to use push brake to avoid indecisive traffic. I even had one of the coils overlap the last coil on the bottom of the spring. It might just be too soft.

Silver front and bronze rear was awesome... when there was traction for it. lol It was the best of both worlds (jumping/squat control), but created a random loss of rear grip on slippery spots. I was also on 30wt oil then with longer rear camber links. Maybe i will go back and try that again with my most recent changes... but that combo had all kindsa of forward bite and was less likely to wheelie. It would lift the front up about two inches and i could just lay into the throttle and hold on to the wheel... all balls and brawn.

The tough thing is finding the sweet spot where your chassis transfers weight, and match that to the diff fluids so you dont have faster/slower weight transfer than you do power transfer.

Kinda like letting a clutch out on a real car with the engine idling while youre doing 60mph through a corner. In a rwd car... the sudden shock to the driveline will likely break rear traction and send you into a spin. In a fwd car it will bring the nose down really hard and cause you to push up out of the groove.

If your center diff and front diff oil are too thick, and your suspension is so soft that the weight transfers really fast... the diff combo will cause your tires to break traction coming into a corner because it cant match the speed of the suspension.

So theres a balance there, but it also has to deal with the excessive power we are putting into these monsters. Soo... IMO... a little less power and you can have a softer diff setup to match the softer suspension for less than grippy tracks. On grooved or loamy high bite surfaces... thicker diffs, slower suspension action, more power can be used.

Sorry... just typing out crap that runs through my head as i decide what to add to my rear diff tonight... lol



Hum so the Bronze front spring the stiffest one will make the rear end squat badly when your on the throttle ? I like the fact you said you can drive harder into corners with traction . What rear tower shock postion did you have it at ?
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:56 PM
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Ill take pix and post them tomorrow... its easier that way. Im headin to work now... lol
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:27 PM
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I want one.
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:10 PM
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Any pics of it DaveW ?
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Any pics of it DaveW ?
Sorry boss... been busy with work n sleep havent pulled the truggy out of the garage to be worked on yet. Ill try and get them in the AM... if not then thursday for sure... im off that day.
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:55 PM
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Holy crap boys,,, I just got my Hotwire and it opens a whole new level of performance for my truggy!!!! If it where not for my servo tray being in pieces I would be at the track tuning all day tomorrow!!!!
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