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Team Associated RC8Te Thread

Team Associated RC8Te Thread

Old 04-13-2012, 10:06 PM
  #526  
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Truggy is alive down south. Im loving it myself. We run nitro and electric together, and incorporated a mandatory pit stop to keep it somewhat fair. That way nitro guys dont need to spend a ton on an expensive engine to make a 10 minute main, and the e guys dont gain almost a lap while nitro refuels.

With the new generation of speedos ($80 for a Hobbywing!) and the durability of 1/8th chassis... its a no brainer as to why 1/8th is/should be growing in popularity. I think the 8T was a little before technology was ready for it.

A lot of people balk at tire cost... in my experience i have run one (1) set of tires on my 8T and have over 10 hours of run time on them. They still work well and keep me out front without a lot of effort. Now that i have an 8B, im gonna start with the same tire i run on the truggy, and see if i can have the same success. If so... tire cost is a void arguement in my opinion.

I know track type (in/outdoor/size/consistency/etc) plays a role. Indoor tracks will usually favor 1/10 classes. Our track is outdoor and varies from slick and hard to loose and loamy. We just get too much rain for it to be consistent race to race.

IMO... thats what offroad should be. Driver should shine regardless of chassis/motor/speedo/tire combination. Sure they are all relevant... but once you let them become primary concern... your wallet gets empty looking for the next best thing when you could be turnin laps for free.

One reason classes come and go is because we let our interests follow the fads of RC. With that said... if you like truggy... buy one. Bring it to your track. Encourage others to look into it. Let em wheel it and enjoy its ability to absorb some of the worst track conditions available on the planet. Most tracks only require 3 to start a class... most times thats all it takes.

For me... its the best of all that i have loved about racing RC since the early 90's...

I have finally found a class that has just way too much power. Everytime i drop that beast on the track i look forward to eekin a little more trigger here and there in search of a faster batch of laps.

It has enough suspension to land on top of another truggy... and barely notice it was there... and enough to absorb wild landings after aggressive aerial assault on backmarkers.

Durability. See above comments. Ive cracked an arm. Thats it. Admittedly i dont lawn dart or try and jump houses with it... but for racing... i couldnt be happier.

Someone take my soapbox...
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BLbound
The problem is the class is pretty much dead. I don't even see any etruggys. The outdoor tracks are mainly for nitro...hardly see any electric...if there is electric then its a short course class. The indoor tracks allow ebuggies but even that class is getting smaller, and again I never see any etruggys.


Well i know at the outdoor tracks i go to one has about 3 of them that show up but constantly so there for its mixed with the Nitro Truggys and il tell you the truth its kind of equal lap time wise and laps.

Im sure your outdoor track will allow a E-Truggy to be mixed with the Nitro Truggys if not thats just insane.
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Oh and my droop is 120mm rear and 108mm front (measured from center of top shock mount screw to center of lower pin).

Im having a hard time finding a consistent way to compare rideheight... as overall tire size can alter the final result... but my front is usually 2mm lower than the rear, and i make small adjustments to the rear for steering.


Hum yea with the ride height i usually just have my rear arms leveled and the front arms above level a bit or level . But i do have a ride height gauge i just need to use it im being lazy lol.

I might adjust the rear droop to a little more than the droop screws just touching the chassis for one it will reduce grip which i need . I going to have to do the front droop because for some reason the outdrives keep on ingraving into the lower arms. It might be because i was using 30w oil in the front i bet. Im doing 40w in the front now and i bought some bronze springs for the front shocks have you tried them with the stock shock pistons also ?
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:46 PM
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Finally got some runtimes on my truggy 4s rx8/t8 2000kv geared 16/46 on loose track I was getting close to 20min and when the track has some mostiure in it I get around 15min... The track is pretty technical and only has 2 straights and I have the radio turned down to 75%. This Tekin setup is just unreal, I finally got the front tires to stay on the ground for the most part!!! Now I'm still learning to run this offroad as I have been racing boats so I could push it a little harder and probably see those times drop more!!!

Dave you are right about the durability, every one warned me about buying the rc8t saying I will be replacing parts all the time... Well a couple beers and a 6 cell later I jumped mine off a dirt bike tripple just missed the tripple landed on the face of it about 60 feet in the air and she drove away fine!!! I have a video of it I will have to post!!!

Although the bushings seem to be the weak point but at $5 for 6 pairs I can live with replacing them often. I just ordered some aka's tires at amain for 5 a tire!!! You can also go to aka's and site and pick up a set for $20 or jconcepts and get a set for $11 buy 2 get 2 free... Although you need to buy foams seperate its not a bad deal at all!

Now I just need to get a Associated buggy with swapable parts so I can join that class also!!! Anyone know how compatible the rc8.2 is???
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:52 PM
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Yea dont listen to people about the durablity on the RC8T they keep on thinking its the first model of the RC8T without the upgrades. I never broke anything on it just bent some things and ive had some crashes.

If you do run the plastic rear hubs i remmend boiling the hubs and the rear plastic camber links to reduce flexing. Because ive had issues with them flexing and binding up the supension . I did boil the rear camber ball links it helped for sure it made them stiffer !

Kroggs: The Rc82 light weight outdrives i believe fit the RC8T without mods. And the alum steering post and the lowered wing mount .
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:03 AM
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tc5man can you comfirm this becouse my hubby rc8t ce need to lose some weight lol do yours run steel spur and all
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Zangetsu
tc5man can you comfirm this becouse my hubby rc8t ce need to lose some weight lol do yours run steel spur and all

I dont run a steel spur gear for two reasons it adds to much weight and its to loud . I run a plastic 48t spur with a 15t pinion on a 2200kv/4s lipo and im droping down to a 14t not enough punch to much top end.


I whould run the plastic spur gear if i were you just mesh it good and your set and it will drop a lot of weight off of the truck and the drivetrain !
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:20 AM
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do you know any think that will fit it on his tekno v4 kit
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Zangetsu
do you know any think that will fit it on his tekno v4 kit

The Associated conversion kit spurs will fit on the Tekno V4 kit im using a plastic 48t spur for the Rc8t.
Dont use the 50t because you will need to use the diff riser plate. And it sits to high and the Axle sits at a bad angle on the Tekno chassis !

Works fine no striped spur gear on it just set the mesh with a little play .
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:27 AM
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Alright I just compared parts lists.....

A lot of the main high wear parts are the same, bearings, alignment bushings and spacers, diff parts and housings, steering parts, hub carriers, other then the new outdrives as I do not know the measurement of them....

Looks like I'm going after a 8.2 and all the extra parts will swap out when needed!!!!
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:28 AM
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so i get a 48/16 or 46/13 i want to have more bottom end and longer run time then less bottom end and more top end
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:30 AM
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let us now becouse my hubby want to drop weight and all
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Zangetsu
so i get a 48/16 or 46/13 i want to have more bottom end and longer run time then less bottom end and more top end


The 46t spur is just crazy lol i would only use the 48t or the 50t if you dont care about the axle angle or how high it sits im not sure if you really need to use the Diff plate though for it.

For longer runtime a 48/14 or a 13t pinion whould give you the most runtime but other things factor into that though.

I used to 50t spur before on my Associated conversion kit and for some reason it keep on unglueing my tires so i stoped running it.

Im doing some cheap mods to drop more weight on the Tekno v4 chassis its just a heavy bastard lol. But handles much better than the Associated conversion kit easier to drive it seems like .


Kroggs: Thats what i would do man.
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:42 AM
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I spend more time making sure my rear diff and hub bearings are clean to avoid larger problems. They see the most dirt, and making sure they are OK keeps my dirvetrain running free and avoids a blown diff bearing which can destroy the ring and pinion gear and even the gear case ($$$).

Ill rebuild the rear diff twice as much as the front (clean the parts, replace oil and orings, replace the bearings if need be... ive rebuilt the rear three times (once because it leaked) and the front once, which aint bad for more than 10hours of runtime), and i just built another center diff out of new parts... well... because i had them. lol All that runtime was on the same plastic spur too. Sure its got a chip or two in it... but it works so i kept using it. It will get replaced this time around and setup with optional oil wt.


As far as the hub flexing goes... IMO... i let it have at it. If i was on a high bite track at a big event it would be different but... that flex helps with consistency. I added the center front and rear tube braces (and got the same ones for my 8B) and the driveline doesnt seem to make as much noise on throttle landing the backside of jumps where the suspension is compressed. Before you could noticeably hear the driveline binding up. Now i have to be driving it strapped with one wheel in the air before the driveline sounds unhappy.

Ive tried the bronze springs and been through almost all combinations front and rear. I just now got to the point im ready to play with different shock pistons. My current setup has silver fronts with stock pistons and 50wt, silver rear with stock pistons and 45wt. Im still in on the shock arm mounts F/R, but out on the rear tower, and middle on the front tower. Inside F/R on the hubs, and i go up on my inner rear link when its mixed/dry and back to the middle hole when its damp/grippy. My front upper pin mounts are still the same, as well as caster.

My next addition will be the 8.2 wing mount and the DEX408 wing. Looking at the design, i really think it will lock the rear end in at high speeds.
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
I spend more time making sure my rear diff and hub bearings are clean to avoid larger problems. They see the most dirt, and making sure they are OK keeps my dirvetrain running free and avoids a blown diff bearing which can destroy the ring and pinion gear and even the gear case ($$$).

Ill rebuild the rear diff twice as much as the front (clean the parts, replace oil and orings, replace the bearings if need be... ive rebuilt the rear three times (once because it leaked) and the front once, which aint bad for more than 10hours of runtime), and i just built another center diff out of new parts... well... because i had them. lol All that runtime was on the same plastic spur too. Sure its got a chip or two in it... but it works so i kept using it. It will get replaced this time around and setup with optional oil wt.


As far as the hub flexing goes... IMO... i let it have at it. If i was on a high bite track at a big event it would be different but... that flex helps with consistency. I added the center front and rear tube braces (and got the same ones for my 8B) and the driveline doesnt seem to make as much noise on throttle landing the backside of jumps where the suspension is compressed. Before you could noticeably hear the driveline binding up. Now i have to be driving it strapped with one wheel in the air before the driveline sounds unhappy.

Ive tried the bronze springs and been through almost all combinations front and rear. I just now got to the point im ready to play with different shock pistons. My current setup has silver fronts with stock pistons and 50wt, silver rear with stock pistons and 45wt. Im still in on the shock arm mounts F/R, but out on the rear tower, and middle on the front tower. Inside F/R on the hubs, and i go up on my inner rear link when its mixed/dry and back to the middle hole when its damp/grippy. My front upper pin mounts are still the same, as well as caster.

My next addition will be the 8.2 wing mount and the DEX408 wing. Looking at the design, i really think it will lock the rear end in at high speeds.



I still run plastic chassis braces front and rear but i got tried of the flexing on the plastic rear camber ends and the rear hubs so i boiled them . So lets say i use the 40w on the front shocks with the stock shock pistons and use the bronze springs whould that keep the front end more leveled ?

I might try out the 8.2 wing mount.
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