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Team Associated RC8Te Thread

Team Associated RC8Te Thread

Old 03-24-2012, 05:03 PM
  #511  
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Originally Posted by DaveW
I guess the 15k might help control some wheelspin on the tire with the least amount of chassis weight. It sounds to me though a little more prep would help keep the tires from coming unglued?

I use a dremel and sanding drum to scuff the tire rubber where the glue holds the rubber to the rim, and use a scotch brite pad (get em at Walmart cheap) to scuff the rims in the same areas. Wash the tires and rims with warm water and Dawn dish detergent, dry thoroughly with a clean rag. Always use fresh CA when you glue up a new set, and tire bands of your choice. Doing this i havent had a bead break yet...

I think im gonna order a set of the AKA EVOs... im definitely curious.


The tires come unglued after some runs there premounts i do stuff tires and clean the beads like you said on non premounts. For some reason the AKA seem to do it more i think its because of the narrow sidewalls on them or the rims.

Now with the 15k will that make the truck to torquey ?

I thinking that with heavyer diff oil the center it will stop the front tires from balloning at full speed ? I guess it could help with wheelspin im not sure .
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:09 PM
  #512  
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Didja get a chance to run yours this weekend?

15k center made my truggy feel like A$$ today. I mean i could drive it but it wasnt easy to push it hard. Im gonna tear it down tomorrow to be sure i didnt have something wrong i wasnt aware of... but it definitely felt like the 15k center sucked.

Im not fond of premounts. Id rather take the time to do them myself... : )
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:19 PM
  #513  
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Didja get a chance to run yours this weekend?

15k center made my truggy feel like A$$ today. I mean i could drive it but it wasnt easy to push it hard. Im gonna tear it down tomorrow to be sure i didnt have something wrong i wasnt aware of... but it definitely felt like the 15k center sucked.

Im not fond of premounts. Id rather take the time to do them myself... : )


Na this coming Sunday i will be running the truggy outdoors so the 15k in the center diff made it harder to drive im guessing maybe the front or rear diff needed to be lighten up with it ?

Actually though the AKA premounted truggy tires are glued good from the factory but yea i see what you mean i might just get the tires/rims and do them myself also.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:34 PM
  #514  
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So, I started looking for setup info regarding the 8TE, and found nothing.

Would it be safe to presume that the 8TN (Nitro) and 8TE setups are similar, or are they completely different? I'll talk to a couple people within AE to see if any setup sheets exist, cause a starting point would be helpful.


Any thoughts on the must haves for the 8TE from the 8TN version?




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Old 03-26-2012, 06:34 AM
  #515  
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I started with the 8TN box setup (back of the manual) and worked from there. Throttle input for nitro is completely different than electric... so i can imagine the biggest potential difference being diff oil selection. Maybe thats why you always see them running 7/7/7 in the N diffs.

Other than that, typical tuning seems to apply. Shorter camber rod lengths for loose slippery tracks (hub adjustment), and long for more grip. Same with shocks, softer springs/lighter oil/outer lower arm mount for loose slippery tracks, and the opposite for more grip.

Shock oil seems to need to be 5wt thicker up front than the rear for smooth transition to the front, good jumping ability, and to keep the nose out of the dirt when hard on the brakes... but i also run a stiffer spring in the rear versus the front to help keep the rear from squatting so much on power. It seems to help with on power corner speed and less front wheelspin.

Somewhere inbetween youll find something to your liking...
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:45 AM
  #516  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Na this coming Sunday i will be running the truggy outdoors so the 15k in the center diff made it harder to drive im guessing maybe the front or rear diff needed to be lighten up with it ?

Actually though the AKA premounted truggy tires are glued good from the factory but yea i see what you mean i might just get the tires/rims and do them myself also.
Nah i think that would have been chasing the dog with a wolf. I think the higher center diff oil is better for larger open flowing tracks. It seems to remove the chassis ability to allow the weight of the transferred end of the chassis to override the thickness of the center diff oil (off power). On power it just wants to stiffen up like a board and shoot in a straight line. Getting it around 180s and smooth radiused turns was laborious and tire abusive.

Maybe 5/7/3 would be better for my track, and 7/15/5 would be ideal for a large blown out slippery track...
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:52 AM
  #517  
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Nah i think that would have been chasing the dog with a wolf. I think the higher center diff oil is better for larger open flowing tracks. It seems to remove the chassis ability to allow the weight of the transferred end of the chassis to override the thickness of the center diff oil (off power). On power it just wants to stiffen up like a board and shoot in a straight line. Getting it around 180s and smooth radiused turns was laborious and tire abusive.

Maybe 5/7/3 would be better for my track, and 7/15/5 would be ideal for a large blown out slippery track...

Well the outdoor track i go to is fast and flowing for sure i might try 15k but for now il stick with 10k in the center . My driving style is hitting the brake before i go into the corner. And getting into the throttle into the turns and of course steering into them . I do have to be somewhat hard on the throttle getting out of turns because them nitro truggy guys can really drive theres harder.

Its going to be my first one with the Tekno V4 chassis so im sticking with the stock setup but with a diffrent diff setup than stock than 7,7,7 my is 7,10,5 and 40w oil on the front end.

Last edited by tc5 man; 03-26-2012 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:26 PM
  #518  
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Well def provide feedback with what works for you. Two people can figure stuff out faster than one. lol Im always willing to try something different to learn a chassis...
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:19 AM
  #519  
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Update: I went to race yesterday with the Tekno V4 chassis and for sure it handles better in the corners than the nitro conversion kit. But it needs some tuning for sure first thing i notice is my front shocks need at least 40w shock oil because on smaller jumps it would tend to nose down right away compared to the rear end which is 35w. Im thinking i need to use the stock droop setting insend of where the droop screws are just touching the chassis. And maybe use diffrent sway bars also.

The thing was i did not exactly have the right tires on the rear at least at the track i went to but they did grip .

This is on a grippy Clay/soil mix dirt with a hard surface.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:05 PM
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I set mine down this past raceday with a LOT of changes. It was much better than before... but i had to drive it a little differently.

By the second set of packs i was pulling small percentages of steering and throttle expo to gimme the last foot of turn in... and stabilize the steering when landing on the backside of jumps front tires first with a turn at the bottom. My final expo was -10 throttle and -4 steering.

The truggy is close to being left alone setup wise... but i think i can still use thicker oil. 45F and 40R felt good... but im gonna try going up half a weight on both ends. Oh, and im using 15mm of rebound in the rears and 20mm of rebound in the front.

Our surface changes so much because we get so much rain. If the track is hard and slick or mixed with hard slick spots i move the inner rear camber link down a hole and readjust camber. It seems to stabilize the rear on power over slick spots and doesnt suddenly step out of line. If the track is loamy and grippy i move the link back up.

I was the only driver on a 10 lap pace (6 min qualifiers) this past Saturday... and i cracked into the 37 second laptimes (37.5 my fastest). I can bang out consistent 38's on an open track in cruise control... traffic slows that of course. I had radio issues on the first lap of the main. DNF for our first points race of the year.

I just picked up a used RC8B too... im siked to wheel that puppy. Its being rebuilt right now...
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:10 PM
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Oh and my droop is 120mm rear and 108mm front (measured from center of top shock mount screw to center of lower pin).

Im having a hard time finding a consistent way to compare rideheight... as overall tire size can alter the final result... but my front is usually 2mm lower than the rear, and i make small adjustments to the rear for steering.
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Old 04-13-2012, 05:13 PM
  #522  
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Can't wait till morning to bust out my rc8te ce at our new track.
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:40 PM
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I wish electric truggy had caught on more than it has. I had a kyosho strr converted to electric...that thing was awesome! The class has since died out down here...I eventually old the kit. If it picked up again I'd convert a rc8t ce.
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:41 PM
  #524  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
I wish electric truggy had caught on more than it has. I had a kyosho strr converted to electric...that thing was awesome! The class has since died out down here...I eventually old the kit. If it picked up again I'd convert a rc8t ce.

Hum the track you go to doesnt allow E-Truggys to run with the nitro truggys ?
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:14 PM
  #525  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Hum the track you go to doesnt allow E-Truggys to run with the nitro truggys ?
The problem is the class is pretty much dead. I don't even see any etruggys. The outdoor tracks are mainly for nitro...hardly see any electric...if there is electric then its a short course class. The indoor tracks allow ebuggies but even that class is getting smaller, and again I never see any etruggys.
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