Team Associated RC8Te Thread
03-14-2012, 11:32 AM
#496
Ive been concentrating on the front end of the truck the past few weeks. The inner upper link mounts change roll center, and ive been playing with the front one (tower) being higher or lower than the rear one.
For instance, i used 2 dot down in the tower and 2 dot up in the rear and steering turn in was progressive... versus two dot up in the tower and two dot down in the rear.
I used these as drastic changes to get a feel for them. Ive settled on one dot in the tower and two dot down in the rear, and out on the hub.
Hub caster is per the manual (red/blue inserts), and im running two dot up on the front hingepin mount for caster (i tried two dot in the rear hingepin mount to rake the front arms inward for stability, and it worked REALLY well... but our track is too small to make good use of it. It would be better on a big track with lots of air. So i went back to one dot).
That combined with...
Front:
40wt oil
std pistons
silver springs
silver swaybar
shocks middle on tower and in on arm
7k diff oil (5k was meh)
-1 camber
0 toe
Center:
10k diff oil
Rear:
35wt oil
std pistons
bronze springs
gold swaybar
shocks middle on tower and in on arm
5k diff oil
2 degrees of squat and toe in
-1 camber
I dunno how my camber link positions equate to the FT towers, i have AE's carbon towers and the links are in the middle holes, and out on the hubs. Hubs are in the upper higepin holes and middle on the arm.
Rideheight is front and rear below arms level. Droop (very important, and measured from rideheight) about 20mm rear and 16mm front. Both vary with grip level.
This bish drives around corners. Land on all fours and stab the throttle and she goes, it lands dead and settles fast. Its easy to squirt from corner to corner and still remain stable to hold a smooth tight line. If you drive it with minimal wheelspin and deft throttle control... youll be in love.
For instance, i used 2 dot down in the tower and 2 dot up in the rear and steering turn in was progressive... versus two dot up in the tower and two dot down in the rear.
I used these as drastic changes to get a feel for them. Ive settled on one dot in the tower and two dot down in the rear, and out on the hub.
Hub caster is per the manual (red/blue inserts), and im running two dot up on the front hingepin mount for caster (i tried two dot in the rear hingepin mount to rake the front arms inward for stability, and it worked REALLY well... but our track is too small to make good use of it. It would be better on a big track with lots of air. So i went back to one dot).
That combined with...
Front:
40wt oil
std pistons
silver springs
silver swaybar
shocks middle on tower and in on arm
7k diff oil (5k was meh)
-1 camber
0 toe
Center:
10k diff oil
Rear:
35wt oil
std pistons
bronze springs
gold swaybar
shocks middle on tower and in on arm
5k diff oil
2 degrees of squat and toe in
-1 camber
I dunno how my camber link positions equate to the FT towers, i have AE's carbon towers and the links are in the middle holes, and out on the hubs. Hubs are in the upper higepin holes and middle on the arm.
Rideheight is front and rear below arms level. Droop (very important, and measured from rideheight) about 20mm rear and 16mm front. Both vary with grip level.
This bish drives around corners. Land on all fours and stab the throttle and she goes, it lands dead and settles fast. Its easy to squirt from corner to corner and still remain stable to hold a smooth tight line. If you drive it with minimal wheelspin and deft throttle control... youll be in love.
03-14-2012, 11:39 AM
#497
Ive been concentrating on the front end of the truck the past few weeks. The inner upper link mounts change roll center, and ive been playing with the front one (tower) being higher or lower than the rear one.
For instance, i used 2 dot down in the tower and 2 dot up in the rear and steering turn in was progressive... versus two dot up in the tower and two dot down in the rear.
I used these as drastic changes to get a feel for them. Ive settled on one dot in the tower and two dot down in the rear, and out on the hub.
Hub caster is per the manual (red/blue inserts), and im running two dot up on the front hingepin mount for caster (i tried two dot in the rear hingepin mount to rake the front arms inward for stability, and it worked REALLY well... but our track is too small to make good use of it. It would be better on a big track with lots of air. So i went back to one dot).
That combined with...
Front:
40wt oil
std pistons
silver springs
silver swaybar
shocks middle on tower and in on arm
7k diff oil (5k was meh)
-1 camber
0 toe
Center:
10k diff oil
Rear:
35wt oil
std pistons
bronze springs
gold swaybar
shocks middle on tower and in on arm
5k diff oil
2 degrees of squat and toe in
-1 camber
I dunno how my camber link positions equate to the FT towers, i have AE's carbon towers and the links are in the middle holes, and out on the hubs. Hubs are in the upper higepin holes and middle on the arm.
Rideheight is front and rear below arms level. Droop (very important, and measured from rideheight) about 20mm rear and 16mm front. Both vary with grip level.
This bish drives around corners. Land on all fours and stab the throttle and she goes, it lands dead and settles fast. Its easy to squirt from corner to corner and still remain stable to hold a smooth tight line. If you drive it with minimal wheelspin and deft throttle control... youll be in love.
For instance, i used 2 dot down in the tower and 2 dot up in the rear and steering turn in was progressive... versus two dot up in the tower and two dot down in the rear.
I used these as drastic changes to get a feel for them. Ive settled on one dot in the tower and two dot down in the rear, and out on the hub.
Hub caster is per the manual (red/blue inserts), and im running two dot up on the front hingepin mount for caster (i tried two dot in the rear hingepin mount to rake the front arms inward for stability, and it worked REALLY well... but our track is too small to make good use of it. It would be better on a big track with lots of air. So i went back to one dot).
That combined with...
Front:
40wt oil
std pistons
silver springs
silver swaybar
shocks middle on tower and in on arm
7k diff oil (5k was meh)
-1 camber
0 toe
Center:
10k diff oil
Rear:
35wt oil
std pistons
bronze springs
gold swaybar
shocks middle on tower and in on arm
5k diff oil
2 degrees of squat and toe in
-1 camber
I dunno how my camber link positions equate to the FT towers, i have AE's carbon towers and the links are in the middle holes, and out on the hubs. Hubs are in the upper higepin holes and middle on the arm.
Rideheight is front and rear below arms level. Droop (very important, and measured from rideheight) about 20mm rear and 16mm front. Both vary with grip level.
This bish drives around corners. Land on all fours and stab the throttle and she goes, it lands dead and settles fast. Its easy to squirt from corner to corner and still remain stable to hold a smooth tight line. If you drive it with minimal wheelspin and deft throttle control... youll be in love.
Um im going to try that setup !
I never messed with the rear inserts but i did mess with the upper front inserts and had them two dot up if i remember and the turn in was wow big diffrence ! I did try having the rear hub hinge pin in the top hole and i dint like it much it might of been the track surface and layout i was on.
The droop i had it where the set screw where just hitting the chassis but i was running on a rough track .
I tryed 14 degree caster and it really tamed down the steering but at times it felt like it wasnt enough so i used 16 degree caster .
I use the same diff setup you use and its good .
03-14-2012, 10:32 PM
#498
I changed it today from that setup but i havent wheeled it yet to know if i will like it or not. Ill know by this weekend.
I changed swaybars, springs, lower shock positions, and rear diff oil (3k).
Have you had to replace your diff gears or input shafts yet? I have a little over 8 hours of track time on the last rebuild. The left front o ring (the small one) started leaking (the only leak i have had at all), so i opened it up and rebuilt it with new seals/7k oil.
The diff ring gears and input gear are showing wear, but not terribly. My bearings cleaned up well and are smooth... even the hub bearings. The previous rebuild, i drilled a hole in the hubs the same size as a motor spray tube, and use WD40 to spray out the bearings while they are still in the hubs. Spin the axle and spray, spin the axle and spray. Flush it with motor spray, then disassemble for final cleaning, re oiling, re assembly. Insert a set screw to plug the hole in each hub. At least it removes a large amount of crap from the bearings so you dont waste as much motor spray.
I changed swaybars, springs, lower shock positions, and rear diff oil (3k).
Have you had to replace your diff gears or input shafts yet? I have a little over 8 hours of track time on the last rebuild. The left front o ring (the small one) started leaking (the only leak i have had at all), so i opened it up and rebuilt it with new seals/7k oil.
The diff ring gears and input gear are showing wear, but not terribly. My bearings cleaned up well and are smooth... even the hub bearings. The previous rebuild, i drilled a hole in the hubs the same size as a motor spray tube, and use WD40 to spray out the bearings while they are still in the hubs. Spin the axle and spray, spin the axle and spray. Flush it with motor spray, then disassemble for final cleaning, re oiling, re assembly. Insert a set screw to plug the hole in each hub. At least it removes a large amount of crap from the bearings so you dont waste as much motor spray.
03-17-2012, 09:30 PM
#499
I changed it today from that setup but i havent wheeled it yet to know if i will like it or not. Ill know by this weekend.
I changed swaybars, springs, lower shock positions, and rear diff oil (3k).
Have you had to replace your diff gears or input shafts yet? I have a little over 8 hours of track time on the last rebuild. The left front o ring (the small one) started leaking (the only leak i have had at all), so i opened it up and rebuilt it with new seals/7k oil.
The diff ring gears and input gear are showing wear, but not terribly. My bearings cleaned up well and are smooth... even the hub bearings. The previous rebuild, i drilled a hole in the hubs the same size as a motor spray tube, and use WD40 to spray out the bearings while they are still in the hubs. Spin the axle and spray, spin the axle and spray. Flush it with motor spray, then disassemble for final cleaning, re oiling, re assembly. Insert a set screw to plug the hole in each hub. At least it removes a large amount of crap from the bearings so you dont waste as much motor spray.
I changed swaybars, springs, lower shock positions, and rear diff oil (3k).
Have you had to replace your diff gears or input shafts yet? I have a little over 8 hours of track time on the last rebuild. The left front o ring (the small one) started leaking (the only leak i have had at all), so i opened it up and rebuilt it with new seals/7k oil.
The diff ring gears and input gear are showing wear, but not terribly. My bearings cleaned up well and are smooth... even the hub bearings. The previous rebuild, i drilled a hole in the hubs the same size as a motor spray tube, and use WD40 to spray out the bearings while they are still in the hubs. Spin the axle and spray, spin the axle and spray. Flush it with motor spray, then disassemble for final cleaning, re oiling, re assembly. Insert a set screw to plug the hole in each hub. At least it removes a large amount of crap from the bearings so you dont waste as much motor spray.
I like the set screw for the Rear hub to clean and oil the bearings
My diff gears look fine after a season the input gears did show some good wear but im running a Tekno v4 chassis now and im running there axles and input cups very high quality compared to the stock RC8T ones. I did however have a leaky diff cup on the front for some reason it was a new cup.
I never tried diffrent sway bars the RC8T how much better are the other ones to the stock one ? And i never tryed the lower shock postions from the stock settings how is it ?
03-17-2012, 11:23 PM
#500
I like the set screw for the Rear hub to clean and oil the bearings
My diff gears look fine after a season the input gears did show some good wear but im running a Tekno v4 chassis now and im running there axles and input cups very high quality compared to the stock RC8T ones. I did however have a leaky diff cup on the front for some reason it was a new cup.
I never tried diffrent sway bars the RC8T how much better are the other ones to the stock one ? And i never tryed the lower shock postions from the stock settings how is it ?
My diff gears look fine after a season the input gears did show some good wear but im running a Tekno v4 chassis now and im running there axles and input cups very high quality compared to the stock RC8T ones. I did however have a leaky diff cup on the front for some reason it was a new cup.
I never tried diffrent sway bars the RC8T how much better are the other ones to the stock one ? And i never tryed the lower shock postions from the stock settings how is it ?
I didnt know if i was gonna like 1/8th or not, so i didnt drop a lot of $ into it. I have been working at making the best out of what i have, and making sure i have quality hardware/electronics in it and LOTS of wheel time. I would love to run a split pack setup and flip the motor around for better balance... but to be honest... it drives just fine as it is.
The setup changes i made for todays race ended up working pretty well. The rebuilt diffs didnt seem to come in till the second qually, and i had the normal bugs i had to work out to get it to feel the way it did before the rebuild (camber/toe/ride height/droop/etc).
By the main it wasnt any faster persay (i think my fast laps were pretty consistent from each qually to the main)... but i didnt HAVE to wheel strapped for it to be fast. It was easy to stay consistent and drive in traffic.
Lower stock shock positions (according to my manual) are inside on the arm front and rear. I was gonna move all four out on the arm per the setup sheets ive seen. I ended up staying with inside on all four arms, but changing the springs, sways and rear diff oil. Im thinking about going up 5wt in both the front and rear shocks (45F/40R). It jumps great, lands dead and i can rip the throttle as soon as i land... but it can always be a little better.
When the sun went down and the moisture came up in the track it felt like i was driving on blown off asphalt. It felt like a slot car in the corners with gobs of grip, tons of rip, and i could pretty much put it where i wanted it without much effort. Honestly, every time i run a pack through this thing i find something new it can do that i didnt think something of this weight/size could.
I gotta get a buggy now...
03-23-2012, 11:38 AM
#502
Get the Hitec 7954SH its around $90 and i run it its a bad ass servo and i run a Mamba Monster and never had to run a external Bec.
03-23-2012, 11:50 AM
#504
Nope never glitched on me and never ran a Cap . Although i did have issues with my old speckum module and my Futaba 3pk with delaying no glitching though but really i think it was just old period .
But i use a Airtronics MX-3 x and have 0 issues .
But i use a Airtronics MX-3 x and have 0 issues .
03-23-2012, 01:54 PM
#506
Im planning on using 35w in the rear shocks with the stock pistons and 40w in the front shocks with the stock pistons. Do i need to change to larger hole pistons on the front end and what number ? since im going to use 40w i only have the stock springs front and rear.
Also with the roll centers front and rear what does what compared to the stock setting on a smooth hard packed track that gets loose ?
Also with the roll centers front and rear what does what compared to the stock setting on a smooth hard packed track that gets loose ?
03-23-2012, 02:00 PM
#507
Im planning on using 35w in the rear shocks with the stock pistons and 40w in the front shocks with the stock pistons. Do i need to change to larger hole pistons on the front end and what number ? since im going to use 40w i only have the stock springs front and rear.
Also with the roll centers front and rear what does what compared to the stock setting on this truck on a smooth hard packed track that gets loose ? Im using the stock plastic rear hubs.
Also with the roll centers front and rear what does what compared to the stock setting on this truck on a smooth hard packed track that gets loose ? Im using the stock plastic rear hubs.
03-23-2012, 03:27 PM
#508
Im planning on using 35w in the rear shocks with the stock pistons and 40w in the front shocks with the stock pistons. Do i need to change to larger hole pistons on the front end and what number ? since im going to use 40w i only have the stock springs front and rear.
Also with the roll centers front and rear what does what compared to the stock setting on this truck on a smooth hard packed track that gets loose ? Im using the stock plastic rear hubs.
Also with the roll centers front and rear what does what compared to the stock setting on this truck on a smooth hard packed track that gets loose ? Im using the stock plastic rear hubs.
For your track you might be better off having the rear hubs on the inside holes. Front inner rollcenter 1 dot tower/2 dot down... or even 2 dot down tower/3 dot down. Depends on where youre loose... and if youre just loose because the track is blowing out/tire selection.
I did change droop and rideheight this past week... but it was minimal and only to fine tune for track changes in the main.
My 8T was really sensitive to front camber and toe adjustments this past race. I ended up running -1.5 camber in the front and -1 front toe. The rear stayed the same. It responds as i like it so ill leave it alone till i feel it needs to be changed to complement the front.
Im going to 15k center this week (so ill be 7/15/3), but i have a feeling its going to hurt me by slowing driveline transition F/R in relation to weight transition F/R. I like the current balance... but i wanna try it to find out if my thought matches the feel.
----------
Has anyone use AKA's EVO series of tire and rim? It looks like you have to buy their rim to run that tire. I wanna try a set of the EVO I Beams with the altered carcass and sidewall. I think it will be about as short of a sidewall as i wanna run at my track, but i think the handling will greatly improve with them (cornering).
03-23-2012, 04:03 PM
#509
Im still using stock shock pistons for now. Next race will have 45 in the front and 40 in the rear... but the black front springs and black front swaybar i added for last weeks race are one reason why im going up. 40/35 would be better for you if youre still using the outer lower shock positions F/R.
For your track you might be better off having the rear hubs on the inside holes. Front inner rollcenter 1 dot tower/2 dot down... or even 2 dot down tower/3 dot down. Depends on where youre loose... and if youre just loose because the track is blowing out/tire selection.
I did change droop and rideheight this past week... but it was minimal and only to fine tune for track changes in the main.
My 8T was really sensitive to front camber and toe adjustments this past race. I ended up running -1.5 camber in the front and -1 front toe. The rear stayed the same. It responds as i like it so ill leave it alone till i feel it needs to be changed to complement the front.
Im going to 15k center this week (so ill be 7/15/3), but i have a feeling its going to hurt me by slowing driveline transition F/R in relation to weight transition F/R. I like the current balance... but i wanna try it to find out if my thought matches the feel.
----------
Has anyone use AKA's EVO series of tire and rim? It looks like you have to buy their rim to run that tire. I wanna try a set of the EVO I Beams with the altered carcass and sidewall. I think it will be about as short of a sidewall as i wanna run at my track, but i think the handling will greatly improve with them (cornering).
For your track you might be better off having the rear hubs on the inside holes. Front inner rollcenter 1 dot tower/2 dot down... or even 2 dot down tower/3 dot down. Depends on where youre loose... and if youre just loose because the track is blowing out/tire selection.
I did change droop and rideheight this past week... but it was minimal and only to fine tune for track changes in the main.
My 8T was really sensitive to front camber and toe adjustments this past race. I ended up running -1.5 camber in the front and -1 front toe. The rear stayed the same. It responds as i like it so ill leave it alone till i feel it needs to be changed to complement the front.
Im going to 15k center this week (so ill be 7/15/3), but i have a feeling its going to hurt me by slowing driveline transition F/R in relation to weight transition F/R. I like the current balance... but i wanna try it to find out if my thought matches the feel.
----------
Has anyone use AKA's EVO series of tire and rim? It looks like you have to buy their rim to run that tire. I wanna try a set of the EVO I Beams with the altered carcass and sidewall. I think it will be about as short of a sidewall as i wanna run at my track, but i think the handling will greatly improve with them (cornering).
Um ok well il try just the heavyer shock oils first than the other stuff and yes i have the lower part of the shocks mounted out front and rear. Yea im using 7,10,5 diff setup and you do need heavyer center diff oil for sure on the electric but the only issue im always having is the tires coming unglued (tires bloowing im guessing) so whould 15k in the center help with that ?
I dont know about the AKA EVOs . But i did try out a pair of Proline Calibers with the VTR rims and there a lower profile and oh yea the handling did approve for sure . The only downside is there not as wide as the AKA so you loose grip.
Last edited by tc5 man; 03-23-2012 at 04:25 PM.
03-24-2012, 05:56 PM
#510
Yea im using 7,10,5 diff setup and you do need heavyer center diff oil for sure on the electric but the only issue im always having is the tires coming unglued (tires bloowing im guessing) so whould 15k in the center help with that ?
I dont know about the AKA EVOs . But i did try out a pair of Proline Calibers with the VTR rims and there a lower profile and oh yea the handling did approve for sure . The only downside is there not as wide as the AKA so you loose grip.
I dont know about the AKA EVOs . But i did try out a pair of Proline Calibers with the VTR rims and there a lower profile and oh yea the handling did approve for sure . The only downside is there not as wide as the AKA so you loose grip.
I use a dremel and sanding drum to scuff the tire rubber where the glue holds the rubber to the rim, and use a scotch brite pad (get em at Walmart cheap) to scuff the rims in the same areas. Wash the tires and rims with warm water and Dawn dish detergent, dry thoroughly with a clean rag. Always use fresh CA when you glue up a new set, and tire bands of your choice. Doing this i havent had a bead break yet...
I think im gonna order a set of the AKA EVOs... im definitely curious.
