Team Associated RC8Te Thread
06-22-2011, 02:08 PM
#331
anybody know ?
06-22-2011, 03:19 PM
#332
im using (7,10,5 )diff setup on my rc8te and was wondering if i could use used "7k in the center whould it make it roll more when i let of the throttle going into a turn ?
Because with the 10k maybe im just letting off the throttle to much but it feels like its stopping ? this is on a loamy soil thats tacky kind of dirt.
also i know i can use "3k in the rear to get my rear end to rotate more, But i tried that and dint like it what else can i change to get it to rotate more ?
just slow down more going into corners or use diffrent type of tire treads ?
Because with the 10k maybe im just letting off the throttle to much but it feels like its stopping ? this is on a loamy soil thats tacky kind of dirt.
also i know i can use "3k in the rear to get my rear end to rotate more, But i tried that and dint like it what else can i change to get it to rotate more ?
just slow down more going into corners or use diffrent type of tire treads ?
06-22-2011, 04:57 PM
#333
I'm thinking you will need to use thinner diff fluid in loose conditions, like 5-7K. If it feels like it's "stopping" check to make sure you aren't using too much drag brake on your ESC. To get more rotation, I would switch to the narrow "CE" hubs all around. You could also go up one slot of the camber link on the shock tower.
oh sorry i forgot to tell you its the "rc8t ce" with the narrow hubs. the track dint seem to loose really with the loomy dirt but hell il try out "7,7,5 and see how i like it . there was no drag brake i know that for sure i think i was just letting off the throttle to much in certain parts of the track.
i never messed with the camber links on the tower thanks for the tips.
im starting to think though the easyest thing to try is use 1 degree camber on the rear insend of 2- on the rear to free it up = more rotation.
06-22-2011, 09:47 PM
#334
oh sorry i forgot to tell you its the "rc8t ce" with the narrow hubs. the track dint seem to loose really with the loomy dirt but hell il try out "7,7,5 and see how i like it . there was no drag brake i know that for sure i think i was just letting off the throttle to much in certain parts of the track.
i never messed with the camber links on the tower thanks for the tips.
im starting to think though the easyest thing to try is use 1 degree camber on the rear insend of 2- on the rear to free it up = more rotation.
i never messed with the camber links on the tower thanks for the tips.
im starting to think though the easyest thing to try is use 1 degree camber on the rear insend of 2- on the rear to free it up = more rotation.
06-22-2011, 09:55 PM
#335
I'm surprised you don't like the 3K in the rear then. I went to 5K in the rear and it doesn't rotate as well and wants to accelerate straight on throttle went exiting the turn. I went back to the 3K in the rear and am getting the rotation I like while still being able to accelerate hard without losing the rear. Is your drivetrain free? Take out the pinion and you should be able rotate all tires and diffs freely. If it's free, your motor is causing the brake. The diffs should cause the truck to dip that dramatically when you get off throttle. Good luck setting it up.
well i used 7,10,3 when i ran this truck as a nitro, but maybe with the extra weight with the electric it wont be so bad maybe il give it a try is it still to loose though or rotate to fast even running that on the e conversion ? because boy was it when i ran it as a nitro.
yea i know what you mean the 5k in the rear does make this truck pull straight when you come out of the turns .
i checked the drivetrain the bearings are a tiny gritty maybe my rear center axle was gritty though. the drivetrain seems free still
06-22-2011, 10:04 PM
#336
well i used 7,10,3 when i ran this truck as a nitro but maybe with the extra weight with the electric its not so bad maybe il give it a try is it still to loose though even running that on the e conversion ?
yea i know what you mean the 5k in the rear does make this truck pull straight when you come out of the turns .
i checked the drivetrain the bearings are little gritty maybe my rear center axle was gritty though. the drivetrain seems free still
yea i know what you mean the 5k in the rear does make this truck pull straight when you come out of the turns .
i checked the drivetrain the bearings are little gritty maybe my rear center axle was gritty though. the drivetrain seems free still
06-22-2011, 10:06 PM
#337
oh well the bearings are perfect on the motor ive only ran it for one weekend never got really hot . yea im pretty much using the same setup on this as when i ran as a nitro .
il be honest i think this truck handles a lot better as electric than the nitro.
thanks for the info i will try 7,10,3 again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3fLEmhr6GcI
im the orange and green body rc8t .
06-23-2011, 09:35 AM
#338
oh well the bearings are perfect on the motor ive only ran it for one weekend never got really hot . yea im pretty much using the same setup on this as when i ran as a nitro .
il be honest i think this truck handles a lot better as electric than the nitro.
thanks for the info i will try 7,10,3 again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3fLEmhr6GcI
im the orange and green body rc8t .
il be honest i think this truck handles a lot better as electric than the nitro.
thanks for the info i will try 7,10,3 again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3fLEmhr6GcI
im the orange and green body rc8t .
The 10K in the middle can make the car feel slugish going into turns, but will accelerate out of turns very quickly. Since you can't adjust brake bias like you would on a nitro, going with higher center fluid will not allow the front wheels to unload as much as they would with lighter fluid. This would feel like a truck with too much front brake which causes car to push going into the turn.
The 3K in the rear will make the car rotate quickly, but the rear end won't feel as planted causing you to lose traction. The track in the video looks like it has a loose top layer. You will want the rear tires more planted. One thing that slows this truck down is having too much drift action because you can't get the rear tires planted.
Try 7,7,5. I run at Revelation Raceway which is extremely hardpacked with a loose top layer and I run 7,7,7 with AKA grid irons.
06-24-2011, 07:27 PM
#340
You seem to get plenty of rotation. I would argue that the rear isn't planted enough causing you to loose traction.
The 10K in the middle can make the car feel slugish going into turns, but will accelerate out of turns very quickly. Since you can't adjust brake bias like you would on a nitro, going with higher center fluid will not allow the front wheels to unload as much as they would with lighter fluid. This would feel like a truck with too much front brake which causes car to push going into the turn.
The 3K in the rear will make the car rotate quickly, but the rear end won't feel as planted causing you to lose traction. The track in the video looks like it has a loose top layer. You will want the rear tires more planted. One thing that slows this truck down is having too much drift action because you can't get the rear tires planted.
Try 7,7,5. I run at Revelation Raceway which is extremely hardpacked with a loose top layer and I run 7,7,7 with AKA grid irons.
The 10K in the middle can make the car feel slugish going into turns, but will accelerate out of turns very quickly. Since you can't adjust brake bias like you would on a nitro, going with higher center fluid will not allow the front wheels to unload as much as they would with lighter fluid. This would feel like a truck with too much front brake which causes car to push going into the turn.
The 3K in the rear will make the car rotate quickly, but the rear end won't feel as planted causing you to lose traction. The track in the video looks like it has a loose top layer. You will want the rear tires more planted. One thing that slows this truck down is having too much drift action because you can't get the rear tires planted.
Try 7,7,5. I run at Revelation Raceway which is extremely hardpacked with a loose top layer and I run 7,7,7 with AKA grid irons.
ok well i dont know if i want to competly change all the diff oil setup, maybe just one like the center drop it down to 7k in the center and leave the 7k in the front and 5k in the rear ?
yea your right having "10k in the center" does seem like it if you let off to much it feels like its stop or something and yes it does tend to push a little bit when powering out of the corners.
but powers out of the turns like a rocket lol.
in the video i was running jconcepts crosshairs soft front and rear, than i went to crossbrade soft on the front and i-beams soft on the rear.
and did work better grip wise .
my question about the (aka gridirons) are do they load up with dirt? thats the problem i was having all say even the i-beams soft were loading up with dirt and the crosshairs also.
im am new to driving a 1/8 e anything by the way that was my first day.
i wasnt using any brake just in the air if i needed to.
but yea i will try 7,7,5 and see how i like it.
Last edited by tc5 man; 06-24-2011 at 07:46 PM.
06-24-2011, 07:32 PM
#341
06-24-2011, 08:28 PM
#342
ok well i dont know if i want to competly change all the diff oil setup, maybe just one like the center drop it down to 7k in the center and leave the 7k in the front and 5k in the rear ?
yea your right having "10k in the center" does seem like it if you let off to much it feels like its stop or something and yes it does tend to push a little bit when powering out of the corners.
but powers out of the turns like a rocket lol.
in the video i was running jconcepts crosshairs soft front and rear, than i went to crossbrade soft on the front and i-beams soft on the rear.
and did work better grip wise .
my question about the (aka gridirons) are do they load up with dirt? thats the problem i was having all say even the i-beams soft were loading up with dirt and the crosshairs also.
im am new to driving a 1/8 e anything by the way that was my first day.
i wasnt using any brake just in the air if i needed to.
but yea i will try 7,7,5 and see how i like it.
yea your right having "10k in the center" does seem like it if you let off to much it feels like its stop or something and yes it does tend to push a little bit when powering out of the corners.
but powers out of the turns like a rocket lol.
in the video i was running jconcepts crosshairs soft front and rear, than i went to crossbrade soft on the front and i-beams soft on the rear.
and did work better grip wise .
my question about the (aka gridirons) are do they load up with dirt? thats the problem i was having all say even the i-beams soft were loading up with dirt and the crosshairs also.
im am new to driving a 1/8 e anything by the way that was my first day.
i wasnt using any brake just in the air if i needed to.
but yea i will try 7,7,5 and see how i like it.
Gridirons can load up if there is wet dirt on top. Gridirons are really good if it is hard packed with a dry or slightly loamy top layer.
06-24-2011, 08:43 PM
#343
ok yea when they watered the track down thats when, the tires loaded up when it was dry and loamy they dont load up. i think il stick with the tires i have now though .
does running 7,7,5 setup make the truck harder to drive ?
06-24-2011, 09:52 PM
#344
What type of run time. U guys have have any of yours hit the 20k min mark
06-25-2011, 02:15 AM
#345
I've done 30 minutes total run time before. I temped out at 160 after 30 minutes. The temp is a bit high, but still VERY reasonable for the vehicle it's in and still not out of the safe range. Now if I hit this temp after 10 minutes I'd be concerned. This was in practice but still I timed to see what it could really do. I recently had an A main with nitro truggies that was 25 minutes long. Sadly, I had a front driveshaft pop out in the front and take me out of the race. I checked the battery after and after 15 minutes of running, I only put in a mere 2650mah. on a large outdoor 1/8th scale track. This is on a 6S 1350kv 5000mah setup.
