DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Any suggestions for axles that dont bend so easily?

JBRacing47

iTrader: (1)

Im assuming youre talking about the cva bones getting warped. If so, try shortening your droop. I go 125mm in front and 113mm rear. Since I've gone to this setting I haven't twisted any bones. With more droop the arms dangle further down and the bones aren't meant to take the torque at that extreme of an angle. I don't see any other way around it for now since nobody makes afermarket bones for this truck.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Droop settings make sense. I got the truck second hand with a few bent bones and just received my order of replacement parts to rebuild it. I was hoping it was something i wouldnt have to replace on a regular basis if it was driven/setup properly.

The shock pistons have no holes drilled in them... is that something i am supposed to do? If so, any suggestions?

Kevin J

Dont mean to hijack the thread but just spreading the word on the 2010 ROAR 1:8 Electric offroad Nationals Sept 17-19 hope you Associated drivers can make it.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...t-17-19-a.html

jetbill007

iTrader: (20)

Has anyone run 7-10-3 in the diffs?
Iam thinking of 7-10-7 would be the way to go, but reading the manual it looks like 3 in the rear might be more common.

Also what have you guys who race run with the 6x1.3's?
50w seems like a bit much..
thanks

Optimus Grime

For the last year I've run mine with 5-7-3 and love the way that combo has worked

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Mine are built 7-10-3, but i havent 'raced' it yet.

Was the gasket that goes between the chassis and gearboxes phazed out? I bought my 8Te used and they werent installed.

jetbill007

iTrader: (20)

what shock oil and springs do you use?
do you race frequently?
thanks

MoonDeville

iTrader: (24)

Heya folks. Needing some advice. I currently have a SC8e as well as a Slash 4x4. Bith for bashing but I can easilly set em up for race too. I really don't need 2 SCT's and 1/8 SCT doesn't apear popular round my area. I have been wanting a Truggy for a while. would it be cost effective to convert my SC8e into a Truggy Basher? Oh and when I bash it's on the road and over curbs and into the yard. Nothing major. If you would reccomend it what parts would I need?

Moon

funkhouser

iTrader: (3)

you are looking at about $100-$150 in parts
better of selling sc8 as a roller and buy a rc8t roller
you need
A arms front and rear
Camber links
tie rods
shock towers
front and rear drive shafts
body mounts
body posts

I think thats it

jetbill007

iTrader: (20)

Has anyone tried using the 10x1.1 pistons on the truggy?

Ill try 7-10-5 in the diffs and go from there.

racerj3

iTrader: (26)

So I just got my own Rc8Te yesterday, and I have a Mamba Monster 2200kv set-up in it; and I was curious what gearing are you guys using to get good runtimes out of it? Right now it's just really fast but I don't think it'll last all that long at the track.

carrotcake

Is anyone running the CE setup (as per the CE manual) for their RC8T"e"?

1BLADE1

had to think for a sec? but on mine i run the 5K-7K-4K on mine front to rear, with 40wt, on 1.3 x 6 bronze front and rear, feels pretty good at most of the tracks i'll go to...that is in it's "Electric Form"
in my other one for "Nitro" pretty much run what was in the book, feels pretty "Solid"
Oh, sometimes i'll change the front upper link to 3 up-2up for Quicker turn in at the entrance of a turn on some tracks,other than that almost stock.....
for the pistons, 1.1 x 10 i'll run 30wt all around nitro and Electric but usually when the track is "Hard Packed" maybe little dusty on top but will vary depending on "Track Conditions" ??

carrotcake

Hey Blade, many thanks for the info. just trying to see what/how people have their RC8T / "e" setup. Just looking for a "all around" setup, no track / nothing much specific. I dont plan on changing diff. fuild, shock oil, front upper pivot/hinge pin and any other settings often. I think I'm going to try the 7K, 7K, 7K with the Setup sheet from the CE manual --> for my RC8t"e", except the rear camber link location, I am using the carbon rear shock tower, will use the "lowest" hole on the tower and the "further est" hole on the rear hub.

This "was" my RC8T"e" setup:
http :// s291. photobucket. com/ albums/ll291/ 1carrotcake/RC8Te
http: // ww w.youtube. com/ watch?v=IT3qX-cH0qU

But after knowing a few facts and issues with this setup. I am in the process of re building my rc8te.