Team Associated RC8Te Thread
#271

I would call up some of the smaller online shops to see if any are in stock. Most likely there are quite a few on shelves or in the warehouse. The bigger guys, like Tower, are definitely out of them.
#272

Can some one post track set up's. I havent been able to find them on rc10.com or here.
Im looking for differnt / more common diff oil combos, as well as shock oil weights too.
Just to get a rough idea for a better starting point.
Im looking for differnt / more common diff oil combos, as well as shock oil weights too.
Just to get a rough idea for a better starting point.
#273

I converted my SC8 with some parts from my nitro RC8 to brushless
Its geared at 46/15 with the 2200 MMM combo.
the motor is running hot, around 170F after 10-15mins.
Should I gear down or get a heat sink?
I run on a pretty long track, I have a 56T spur from my nitro RC8 but according to the speed calculator I don't think it would be fast enough for my track with the 56T.
Anybody running a 56T spur?
Its geared at 46/15 with the 2200 MMM combo.
the motor is running hot, around 170F after 10-15mins.
Should I gear down or get a heat sink?
I run on a pretty long track, I have a 56T spur from my nitro RC8 but according to the speed calculator I don't think it would be fast enough for my track with the 56T.
Anybody running a 56T spur?
#274
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)

I converted my SC8 with some parts from my nitro RC8 to brushless
Its geared at 46/15 with the 2200 MMM combo.
the motor is running hot, around 170F after 10-15mins.
Should I gear down or get a heat sink?
I run on a pretty long track, I have a 56T spur from my nitro RC8 but according to the speed calculator I don't think it would be fast enough for my track with the 56T.
Anybody running a 56T spur?
Its geared at 46/15 with the 2200 MMM combo.
the motor is running hot, around 170F after 10-15mins.
Should I gear down or get a heat sink?
I run on a pretty long track, I have a 56T spur from my nitro RC8 but according to the speed calculator I don't think it would be fast enough for my track with the 56T.
Anybody running a 56T spur?
Stick with the 46 spur.
#277

Getting a RC8TE this week. What is the best set up for this truck?
#278
Tech Master
iTrader: (59)

If its a kit your getting I would try the stock set up first and go from there.
I running the stock set up with just a few little changes.
Front&rear shock oil = 35wt
front diff=7,000
center diff=15,000
rear diff=5,000
rear camber set 0deg with camber link at the inner hole on the rear hub
front camber -2deg
toe is -2deg
running FT steering knuckels,rear hubs, f/r threaded shocks,carbon fiber f/r shock towers,short wheel hubs
This set for me is very good on smooth and semi rough tracks with a light loom on it . Hope this helps some.
I running the stock set up with just a few little changes.
Front&rear shock oil = 35wt
front diff=7,000
center diff=15,000
rear diff=5,000
rear camber set 0deg with camber link at the inner hole on the rear hub
front camber -2deg
toe is -2deg
running FT steering knuckels,rear hubs, f/r threaded shocks,carbon fiber f/r shock towers,short wheel hubs
This set for me is very good on smooth and semi rough tracks with a light loom on it . Hope this helps some.
Last edited by prettyboy; 09-26-2010 at 10:54 PM.
#279

Thanks!
#280

yea, would agree with PB the stock set up is pretty good to start.....
the main thing it seems like to me with the AE cars now is the "Tires"
so check what most of your "Locals" at your track are running, this will help allot
and like PB said, you might have to do little changes in your set up
for example on both of mine i have a RC8TCE for nitro and one for "Electric" i run box stock on both
and on one i run full rebound on the shocks and the other i run 1/2 rebound thats it?
now one of the cool parts about the trucks for the AE ones is the little changes will make big differences, so be sure to "Try" stock set up first! then if there is a "Need"
just do one small change at a time, Associated really did there "HomeWork" on this line of cars, oddly enough you come to find is that you wont find too many set up sheets??
because there is not really too many you'll need? the truck is pretty "Neutral" and good to go out of the box
the only downside? probally be the drooling you'll be doing while driving! cause you'll be having a grip of fun
the main thing it seems like to me with the AE cars now is the "Tires"
so check what most of your "Locals" at your track are running, this will help allot

and like PB said, you might have to do little changes in your set up
for example on both of mine i have a RC8TCE for nitro and one for "Electric" i run box stock on both
and on one i run full rebound on the shocks and the other i run 1/2 rebound thats it?
now one of the cool parts about the trucks for the AE ones is the little changes will make big differences, so be sure to "Try" stock set up first! then if there is a "Need"
just do one small change at a time, Associated really did there "HomeWork" on this line of cars, oddly enough you come to find is that you wont find too many set up sheets??
because there is not really too many you'll need? the truck is pretty "Neutral" and good to go out of the box

the only downside? probally be the drooling you'll be doing while driving! cause you'll be having a grip of fun

#281

for the RC8T

if so the stock set up is pretty good, usually seems "Tires" are the biggest change factor.
but on average the 7,7,7 is a good place to start for diffs
if the set up is pretty good
but there is just a tiny bit more steering your looking for
say for example just give it a hair more toe out
or if the set up is great but need just a hair more rear traction
then lower the rear cambe link "One" hole at a time
shock oils, well there is a tough one? will depend allot on the track?
is there allot of smaller bumps or mogols etc.?
is it hard packed,but little bit of loose dirt on top,but basicaly "Smooth" with more open throttle sweepers?
and "Flowing Jumps"
or is the track rutty (or more like Holes in ground) with sharp ends in the ruts?
now the cool part you already have 2 kinds of shocks on the cars already!
run the stock oil as recommended,but first try the Non-Rebound set up where you bleed out the shock for no "Air" fill shock then push up the piston almost to top then slowly screw on cap this is non-rebound
run car,
then remove shocks, slightly refill them, but do not push up the piston,fill the cap "Almost" to top then put cap on and "Slowly" twist on cap allowing the air to escape this is "Full Rebound" and the car/truck will have a compleat different feel, but more common seems for a good majority of tracks "On Average"
will be the 1.1 x 10 pistons on 30 wt.
or the 1.3 x 6 on 35 wt.

#282

anybody running 18/54?
over geared?
over geared?