Team Associated RC8Te Thread
06-08-2010, 11:55 AM
#256
Yes it does, and thanx for the response! I have been reading as much info as i can and had pretty much decided to pick up a 1900kV Tekin motor/speedo pack. I want to run a 4s dual pack layout, and seeing your new pix really help with that decision. 
Im assuming the RX8 allows motor direction reversal, otherwise your setup wouldnt work. My concern is using a motor with built in physical timing, and the obvious issues that could cause. Are you using the Hotwire to change the setup in your RX8?
Sorry for all the questions, but i like to be prepared. lol
Im assuming the RX8 allows motor direction reversal, otherwise your setup wouldnt work. My concern is using a motor with built in physical timing, and the obvious issues that could cause. Are you using the Hotwire to change the setup in your RX8?
Sorry for all the questions, but i like to be prepared. lol
06-08-2010, 01:39 PM
#258
As far as weight goes, i doubt the T is substantially heavier than the B. I would think there would be more of a concern with the taller gear ratio and greater rotating mass larger wheels would generate... than nominal weight differences.
I do agree that there is a limit to how small of a motor you can use, but greater voltage on a medium kV motor will be more efficient than less voltage with a high kV motor. It is true that the lower kV motor will likey not last as long, but that isnt as much of a concern as it once was with brushed setups. As with anything in racing, there is a balance to be found.
I remember the days of 7 cell modified and 13 or 14 turn brushed motors. At the time, it was far superior than any 6 cell 11 or 12 turn brushed setup you could run. With 6 cell, i was turning arms every 3rd or 4th run, and changing brushes every other run. A properly tuned 7 cell setup was so much better.
Thats just my 2 pennies tho. I may change my opinion after i get everything up and running.
06-08-2010, 02:17 PM
#259
Well from everything i have been reading, its best from a racing point of view. Having a useable powerband and making runtime are more important than tire shredding and mud slinging.
As far as weight goes, i doubt the T is substantially heavier than the B. I would think there would be more of a concern with the taller gear ratio and greater rotating mass larger wheels would generate... than nominal weight differences.
I do agree that there is a limit to how small of a motor you can use, but greater voltage on a medium kV motor will be more efficient than less voltage with a high kV motor. It is true that the lower kV motor will likey not last as long, but that isnt as much of a concern as it once was with brushed setups. As with anything in racing, there is a balance to be found.
I remember the days of 7 cell modified and 13 or 14 turn brushed motors. At the time, it was far superior than any 6 cell 11 or 12 turn brushed setup you could run. With 6 cell, i was turning arms every 3rd or 4th run, and changing brushes every other run. A properly tuned 7 cell setup was so much better.
Thats just my 2 pennies tho. I may change my opinion after i get everything up and running.
As far as weight goes, i doubt the T is substantially heavier than the B. I would think there would be more of a concern with the taller gear ratio and greater rotating mass larger wheels would generate... than nominal weight differences.
I do agree that there is a limit to how small of a motor you can use, but greater voltage on a medium kV motor will be more efficient than less voltage with a high kV motor. It is true that the lower kV motor will likey not last as long, but that isnt as much of a concern as it once was with brushed setups. As with anything in racing, there is a balance to be found.
I remember the days of 7 cell modified and 13 or 14 turn brushed motors. At the time, it was far superior than any 6 cell 11 or 12 turn brushed setup you could run. With 6 cell, i was turning arms every 3rd or 4th run, and changing brushes every other run. A properly tuned 7 cell setup was so much better.
Thats just my 2 pennies tho. I may change my opinion after i get everything up and running.
06-08-2010, 02:29 PM
#260
Yeah, that's what I meant. It's not just the weight, it's the gear ratio with wider and taller tires. I understand the voltage vs KV thing. I would just say to use a smaller KV Truggy motor. Running a buggy motor on a Truggy just seems terribly inefficient because of the torque issue. You need lots of it to move a Truggy.
06-08-2010, 02:43 PM
#261
The differance is a truggy motor has a longer rotor for more torque. As far as everyone elses comments, I may have missed something, but when did he say he was going to run a buggy motor?
06-13-2010, 12:58 PM
#263
motor
What is the best size motor ror a RC8TE to race with. I just traded for one and i think it is a tekin 2000kv on 4cell.. I think the truck has way to much power to drive but i am used to nitro maybe i need to get used to it. The guy said it was a 2000kv but it might be a 2250 it is crazy fast. Any help would be nice thanks Jeff
06-13-2010, 05:38 PM
#264
The instantaneous torque is probably what you have to get used to. That's the fun of electric...instant power and torque...not need to build up rpms. There should be some identifying marking to help you confirm if it's the 2000kV or 2250kV. Either would be fine for truggy, but the 2000kV will have plenty of power and give more runtime than the 2250kV on 4s. For a truggy, I think 2000kV is perfect.
06-13-2010, 06:14 PM
#266
2000 is perfect on 4S - you may want to adjust the throttle profile on your esc to mellow out the bottom a little as well. This has helped me out alot on our high traction track, you cant steer when the front tires arent on the ground
06-13-2010, 06:31 PM
#267
06-19-2010, 08:12 PM
#269
It isn't selling too well. Most people buy the nitro version with all the goodies and convert it. And plus truggies just aren't as popular as buggies yet.
Anyways, I've been having problems with my RC8Te lately. It has a Tekno conversion and it seems somehow, I have managed to bend the center rear CVD. Not sure what exactly caused it. Is a stiffer aluminum rear brace in order here?
Anyways, I've been having problems with my RC8Te lately. It has a Tekno conversion and it seems somehow, I have managed to bend the center rear CVD. Not sure what exactly caused it. Is a stiffer aluminum rear brace in order here?
