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Old 02-09-2009, 11:40 AM   #16
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So with all this being said..I am going to get the 4600kv Mamba Max, and run it on a NiMh pack.

Here's the million dollar question...

what gearing should I use? I want to start out with a good ballpark. Suggestions?
I've been racing my T4 w/ 20/87, recently I switched to 18/87 to keep the motor cooler. The ratio didn't make a different in speed. Believe me a 4600kV will get you around a track quickly. You'll probably still have to dial down your throttle endpoint. On my Spektrum I have my T4 dialed down to 65%, every time I think I'm getting faster and turn it up the truck becomes uncontrollable.
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:40 AM   #17
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Hell if I know. Any suggestions? Maybe an LRP/Reedy setup?

I run the mamba in my b44, its a hell of a motor/speed controle. Its only drawback being sensorless. Many people at my local track are using mamba max and are having success.

But for a 2w B4 i would maybe sugest running a Novak GTB, 13.5 with lipo. Last night at the race there were 13.5's in the mad class. You couldnt even tell the difference in speed. If you dont want to run Super Stock you can always go with a 10.5 or even an 8.5

But the 5700 in your b4 with Nimh Or lipo will be overkill. If you want Mamba try the 4500, dont be affraid of getting lipos for it. Personally i wouldnt waist my money on nimh anymore
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:43 AM   #18
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my 4600-equipped losi CR (on lipo) is still very choked on a good traction indoor track. to the tune of.

low start power, 60% punch control, 90% throttle EPA, and the linear curve pulled down 15% (the 10% off the epa hacks the spike off at the end of the curve).

that and a soft trigger finger. luckily with the CR, u can use a gear diff from the desert truck so no more worries of blowin the ball diff loose while fiddlin w/ur slipper usin all that power.

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Old 02-09-2009, 11:44 AM   #19
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I run the mamba in my b44, its a hell of a motor/speed controle. Its only drawback being sensorless. Many people at my local track are using mamba max and are having success.

But for a 2w B4 i would maybe sugest running a Novak GTB, 13.5 with lipo. Last night at the race there were 13.5's in the mad class. You couldnt even tell the difference in speed. If you dont want to run Super Stock you can always go with a 10.5 or even an 8.5

But the 5700 in your b4 with Nimh Or lipo will be overkill. If you want Mamba try the 4500, dont be affraid of getting lipos for it. Personally i wouldnt waist my money on nimh anymore
I hear ya. I was thinking I can always just start at the bottom and work my way up. Once I figure out what sort of gearing to start at, I'm gonna go ahead and place my order. I have no idea what size spur comes in the FT B4, mines not here yet (ebay) so I don't know. So I was just gonna order a new spur/pinion and drop it in with the mamba.
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:57 AM   #20
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I hear ya. I was thinking I can always just start at the bottom and work my way up. Once I figure out what sort of gearing to start at, I'm gonna go ahead and place my order. I have no idea what size spur comes in the FT B4, mines not here yet (ebay) so I don't know. So I was just gonna order a new spur/pinion and drop it in with the mamba.
stock spurs... 81 for the b4, 87 for the T4. a 84t is avail also.
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:28 PM   #21
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If you are to get serious about racing, you will eventually ditch the mamba max for something sensored. Mark my words. If you are wise, you will just start off with something sensored, but feel free to try and prove me wrong :-). I believe you will get tired of the hesitation/cogging that all sensorless systems have. Even the Tekin R1 Pro shows the hesitation/cogging. It doesn't matter which sensorless system you have, they all start up the same before the sensorless software can get a read on which way the rotor is turning. It is that fact that I believe you will eventually get tired of it. Then again, maybe the slight hesitation won't bother you...

I am not just against sensorless systems either, as matter of fact, people knew at my track that I was one of the first to jump all over it. I have owned two Mamba Max systems, I still own a Tekin R1 Pro. It is just part of the learning curve, thats all.
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:42 PM   #22
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If you are to get serious about racing, you will eventually ditch the mamba max for something sensored. Mark my words. If you are wise, you will just start off with something sensored, but feel free to try and prove me wrong :-). I believe you will get tired of the hesitation/cogging that all sensorless systems have. Even the Tekin R1 Pro shows the hesitation/cogging. It doesn't matter which sensorless system you have, they all start up the same before the sensorless software can get a read on which way the rotor is turning. It is that fact that I believe you will eventually get tired of it. Then again, maybe the slight hesitation won't bother you...

I am not just against sensorless systems either, as matter of fact, people knew at my track that I was one of the first to jump all over it. I have owned two Mamba Max systems, I still own a Tekin R1 Pro. It is just part of the learning curve, thats all.
Awesome post, but something I forgot to mention is that I'm not going to be RACING this thing TOO much. Most everyonee around here races 1/8th nitro. I race my RC8 every weekend. This thing may see one weekend out the month race-wise.
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:53 PM   #23
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Get a sensored esc and dont look back. LRP, Novak, etc. The Mamba is a great esc but in a offroad platform you cant beat the smoothness of a good sensored system. I would start out with a GTB or Slyder and be done with it. If you decide to run onroad one day and have the urge to drop ina 3.5 the esc will handle it fine. I have been through a ton of esc's and wish i would of just got the Spread spektrum GTB to start with. In my B4 i ran a 10.5 and loved it. In my XXX4g+ the 6.5 seems to be the hot ticket. Grab a GTB and you will be happy, not to mention 90% of the motors for sale on this site are sensored.

Yes go lipo...There are so many advantages with lipo. This is another thing i wish i would of done in the beginning. Nimh's are still fine but lipos are just so user freindly and provide great power and runtime with less maintenance involved.

If you need a lipo charger send me a text and i will give you a killer deal on a ICE. I know where to ship it!
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:55 PM   #24
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Awesome post, but something I forgot to mention is that I'm not going to be RACING this thing TOO much. Most everyonee around here races 1/8th nitro. I race my RC8 every weekend. This thing may see one weekend out the month race-wise.
so what you really need is the RC8 E-kit! ...sensored of course! lol. I'm jones'n for nitro killer bad!
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:38 PM   #25
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Ok so after some more advice and reconsideration. I have changed my mind and am prob going to get the LRP Eraser 10.5 and LRP A.I. ESC. Should I go with a 25/81? The stock spur is 81, is 25 too small? too big?
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:52 PM   #26
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Castle Creations is NOT a good racing speed control!
Novak, Tekin,or LRP . Usable controllable power is what you want.

Look around at race results, Who wins with a mamba?
Right. They also have nothing for corner speed. I have a 4600kv it's fast but slow in the corner. There is a big diffeance from sensored and senserless. I would go with Tekin.
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:53 PM   #27
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on my indoor/tight track a 10.5 w/ a hot pack, in truck or buggy pulls faster laps than a mod motor... mainly causes it's much more drivable...faster it not always faster! "Usable" is the key!
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Use a Novak or LRP speed control and a sensored brushless motor.
A 2 cell lipo and you will love it and have almost zero maintenance.

If your going to race start with a 10.5 motor.
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Ok so after some more advice and reconsideration. I have changed my mind and am prob going to get the LRP Eraser 10.5 and LRP A.I. ESC. Should I go with a 25/81? The stock spur is 81, is 25 too small? too big?
Yes, yes, yes! You will be very happy with a 10.5 motor with LRP speed control and at least a 3800 30C. Great combo, very easy to control and very competitive. If you want more flexability get a 10.5 that has adjustable timing so you can speed it up when needed.

I run that same combo, and I gear mine at 27/78. Super smooth, very fast and motor never gets above 105 degrees.
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:01 PM   #28
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Yes, yes, yes! You will be very happy with a 10.5 motor with LRP speed control and at least a 3800 30C. Great combo, very easy to control and very competitive. If you want more flexability get a 10.5 that has adjustable timing so you can speed it up when needed.

I run that same combo, and I gear mine at 27/78. Super smooth, very fast and motor never gets above 105 degrees.
Ok so I made my order. No keep in mind, at first, im just going to be running a 7.2v 4500mah Orion Rocket pack until I get lipo. What gearing should I use with this battery to speed things up? I threw a 25T 48P pinion on my order because I didn't know what gearing to run. This car does take a 48 pitch pinion right?
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:59 PM   #29
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Scratch that, I got my answer. I just hope this 25/81 gearing with a 10.5 motor will work well.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:08 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by mattnin View Post
If you are to get serious about racing, you will eventually ditch the mamba max for something sensored. Mark my words. If you are wise, you will just start off with something sensored, but feel free to try and prove me wrong :-). I believe you will get tired of the hesitation/cogging that all sensorless systems have. Even the Tekin R1 Pro shows the hesitation/cogging. It doesn't matter which sensorless system you have, they all start up the same before the sensorless software can get a read on which way the rotor is turning. It is that fact that I believe you will eventually get tired of it. Then again, maybe the slight hesitation won't bother you...

I am not just against sensorless systems either, as matter of fact, people knew at my track that I was one of the first to jump all over it. I have owned two Mamba Max systems, I still own a Tekin R1 Pro. It is just part of the learning curve, thats all.
When your in the Harrisburg area let me know because I can easily let you drive my car because everything you said above will easily be proven false!!!!!!!!!!!! If you run good batteries and good Deans type plugs cogging will NEVER HAPPEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Original programming from2 years back had the potential to do this but the Castle programming out nowadays runs sensorless easily as smooth as any sensored system.

I have ran all the systems out and while each brand runs differently but are smooth. It all depends on the guy setting the stuff up and what programming they have setup in the speedo.
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