Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for your suggestion. No pic necessary! I may try slightly beveling the Ackerman plate in that area first, as I don't want to compromise the strength of the ball cup if possible. If that doesn't work, then filing the ball cup will be next.
Thanks again. Btw, tonight is the maiden run. Looking forward to thrashing this buggy around.
Mark
Thanks again. Btw, tonight is the maiden run. Looking forward to thrashing this buggy around.
Mark
Ran 5 packs through it and was very happy. 7K front diff, 5K rear diff. Started with 6 x 1.2 pistons front and rear, with 37.5w front, 30wt rear (losi). The rear had too much pack, so I changed the rears out to 2 x 1.7 with 30wt (like my old B44.2) WAY better. Currently our indoor clay track has more rolling type jumps, not big triples like it sometime does, so I am sure I will have to tune the suspension some at that point. The car feels very plush. My main gripes? Shocks leak (those cap orings want to push out when I tighten the caps), and the motor mount does not lend itself to an easy to adjust gear mesh. On that point, I simply removed the four screws underneath the chassis that hold the aluminum and plastic motor mount/slipper assembly. With the motor mount out, I put the slipper assembly back in, adjust the mesh, then reassemble on the chassis. Takes a little more time, but it works for me.
Overall, I am very happy. The car is much better than my driving skill. So I can only get better. The recent deals were so good, I bought two so I could have quick changes diffs, shocks. Sure saves time in the pits.
I'm always looking for indoor clay setups for us average guys. So anything you others may have, please let us know!
Mark
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Before last nights practice run, I slightly beveled the underside of the Ackerman plate next to the ball stud mount area. Doing this allowed the ball cup to go to maximum compression without hitting the plate and forcing it up. I chose not to file down the ballcups, as I feel this compromises their strength.
Ran 5 packs through it and was very happy. 7K front diff, 5K rear diff. Started with 6 x 1.2 pistons front and rear, with 37.5w front, 30wt rear (losi). The rear had too much pack, so I changed the rears out to 2 x 1.7 with 30wt (like my old B44.2) WAY better. Currently our indoor clay track has more rolling type jumps, not big triples like it sometime does, so I am sure I will have to tune the suspension some at that point. The car feels very plush. My main gripes? Shocks leak (those cap orings want to push out when I tighten the caps), and the motor mount does not lend itself to an easy to adjust gear mesh. On that point, I simply removed the four screws underneath the chassis that hold the aluminum and plastic motor mount/slipper assembly. With the motor mount out, I put the slipper assembly back in, adjust the mesh, then reassemble on the chassis. Takes a little more time, but it works for me.
Overall, I am very happy. The car is much better than my driving skill. So I can only get better. The recent deals were so good, I bought two so I could have quick changes diffs, shocks. Sure saves time in the pits.
I'm always looking for indoor clay setups for us average guys. So anything you others may have, please let us know!
Mark
Ran 5 packs through it and was very happy. 7K front diff, 5K rear diff. Started with 6 x 1.2 pistons front and rear, with 37.5w front, 30wt rear (losi). The rear had too much pack, so I changed the rears out to 2 x 1.7 with 30wt (like my old B44.2) WAY better. Currently our indoor clay track has more rolling type jumps, not big triples like it sometime does, so I am sure I will have to tune the suspension some at that point. The car feels very plush. My main gripes? Shocks leak (those cap orings want to push out when I tighten the caps), and the motor mount does not lend itself to an easy to adjust gear mesh. On that point, I simply removed the four screws underneath the chassis that hold the aluminum and plastic motor mount/slipper assembly. With the motor mount out, I put the slipper assembly back in, adjust the mesh, then reassemble on the chassis. Takes a little more time, but it works for me.
Overall, I am very happy. The car is much better than my driving skill. So I can only get better. The recent deals were so good, I bought two so I could have quick changes diffs, shocks. Sure saves time in the pits.
I'm always looking for indoor clay setups for us average guys. So anything you others may have, please let us know!
Mark
Screw down the shock cap untill the O'ring starts to bulge. Hold the bulging O'ring in with a business or credit card then screw the cap down tight. This worked for me.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (45)
The team fix (before aluminum caps) is to take and bevel the inside edge of the shock cap with some sandpaper so the o-ring has a place to live and seal. Lets the cap tighten down on the shock body and not pop off in a crash.
Cameron,
I like that idea too! Gonna try it.
Mark
I like that idea too! Gonna try it.
Mark
2wd 410
I decided to build up my spare 410 as a 2wd.
Anyone who's interested can find some words and pics HERE
Anyone who's interested can find some words and pics HERE
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
Take a look at this thread if you are interested in FWD.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Some good guys in my region have had some success with 2wd RWD.
Take a look at this thread if you are interested in FWD.
Take a look at this thread if you are interested in FWD.
what I thought was that front wheel brake could work really well on some track.
*another thing I've thought of is to keep the front drive train, but instead of connecting to the power, make a front brake system on it.
ideally it's to put the brake servo in the front gearbox area, with two brakes discs there as well. with a DMX410 conversion...http://www.area52.cc/news/3045-motog...onversion.html
Last edited by nicholasxuu; 09-21-2013 at 12:14 PM.
So it looks like the Durango team will be running the new updated 4WD car at the worlds. I was looking at the KustomRCGraphics forum and saw a body painted in Travis Amezcua's colors but didnt recognize the shell. I went to oople and found a recent pic of Jorns 4wd with wide chassis and he is running the Pro-Line BD for the TRF502x and thats the same one I saw painted up for Travis.The chassis pics from the bottom show its a big change from the original 410 chassis, its very wide, much more room for esc/rx!