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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-01-2014, 07:36 PM
  #14971  
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Originally Posted by platgof
A square battery sounds cool, and I hope it fits. I charge at whatever the charger recommends for the mah rating. I have had very good luck with batteries, even with a not so hot charger before. I bet the new square battery can hold a higher mah rating because of its size. I found out for me it is easier to remove them for charging than leave them in. You guys are right, once you get used to it, not a problem. I never race with just one pack. This Saturday will be my first race, and I know a big learning curve is coming. I will keep it smooth this weekend to make it easier on myself. Any of you guys racing in the JConcepts St. Louis bash coming up? They are expecting over 300, and last year had a H main for 4x4 buggies!!!
When is this jconcepts race at St. Louis you speak of? Thanks.
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:47 PM
  #14972  
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February 7-9
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:55 PM
  #14973  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Guys ran the new UJ and F/R v4 arms as well. First impression......love the u-joints. New front arms not so much. Broke one in the first Q. After further inspection, it seems that TD notched the arm out for more clearance when the rim/tire is turned. What this means is it is thinner and broke off right there. I will be running the older style front arms until they revise this section.
I've got the u-joints in the whole car and I can't stop talking about them! Slop?? Whats that?? I just threw a little red mobile 1 grease on the centers front and rear just to keep them lubed up (I'll probably do the same on all the rest of them).
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:10 PM
  #14974  
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How do the centre UJ's compare to the D-Joints ? ... in terms of smoothness and lack of slop .... I can't see any reason to swap out my DJs
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Carlos69
How do the centre UJ's compare to the D-Joints ? ... in terms of smoothness and lack of slop .... I can't see any reason to swap out my DJs
I've never had the d joints but compared to the stock center shafts, they are leaps and bounds better. Smoothest my 410 has ever felt even with new shafts, pins and barrels. If I'm not mistaken I believe the d joints were a bit of a stop gap by TD because people were having issues with the center drive shafts. I say if you have the D joints already keep them till you need a change.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:43 PM
  #14976  
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The big difference, weight. The D-Joints are very heavy. They work great when new but watch them for wear, otherwise they get really hot, like discolored pins kinda hot.

What DR setting do most people use on there radio? I notice a lot of chatter at full lock and that with the 17* chubs its an aggressive car, so do most dial back the dual rate? I noticed on carpet the front wore much faster on the front then rear. Hows the chatter with the front UJ's? I'll be running mine on dirt this weekend for the first time and look forward to seeing how well I do after no off road since the end of July after our local big race (300 entries) and have never run 4wd for more then the odd time with a borrowed car. I've got a handful of v4 parts on it now but don't like the sounds of things on the front arms now. I've got all the plastics on it, the o-rings and center UJ's should be in the next order. I haven't decided on which chubs to get or if I should spend the money on the dual slipper. Any imput yet? Also looking for a set up using the type B pistons for medium traction dirt (for the semi local track but mostly for Motorama, not like I'll rebuild the shocks any ways before sunday :P )
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:37 PM
  #14977  
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The car looks good
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Old 01-02-2014, 04:38 AM
  #14978  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
The big difference, weight. The D-Joints are very heavy. They work great when new but watch them for wear, otherwise they get really hot, like discolored pins kinda hot.

What DR setting do most people use on there radio? I notice a lot of chatter at full lock and that with the 17* chubs its an aggressive car, so do most dial back the dual rate? I noticed on carpet the front wore much faster on the front then rear. Hows the chatter with the front UJ's? I'll be running mine on dirt this weekend for the first time and look forward to seeing how well I do after no off road since the end of July after our local big race (300 entries) and have never run 4wd for more then the odd time with a borrowed car. I've got a handful of v4 parts on it now but don't like the sounds of things on the front arms now. I've got all the plastics on it, the o-rings and center UJ's should be in the next order. I haven't decided on which chubs to get or if I should spend the money on the dual slipper. Any imput yet? Also looking for a set up using the type B pistons for medium traction dirt (for the semi local track but mostly for Motorama, not like I'll rebuild the shocks any ways before sunday :P )
I have the 19 casters on mine, and it seems to me like the happy medium between the 2 choices. I like to have a little extra steering that I can call upon when needed, and dial a little out when the track gets slickery. My son has the 21 casters on his car with basically the same set-up, and his car doesn't have as much turn in as mine does. My car is quite a bit quieter than the V3, and Idk if its the noise, but feels smoother also. Still have the CVD axles, and did notice the fronts at full lock are a little bound. I gave the inner edge of the axle side cup a slight bevel and polish, (had to do this on almost all brands) and it seems to have helped from what I can feel on the work bench. The dual slipper I like so far, and if I had to replace mine and had the choice between the 2 parts, its what I would buy..I think what separates it from the other is the smaller increments of adjustment, the older model requires at least a half turn before the set screw can lock on the flat. The 2way can be the slightest amount either way, but make sure to thoroughly loc-tite the threads on the thrust screw and nut though, some will have issues when they don't do this, and we will all hear about it..Its seems to also allow the car to be smoother, it doesn't seems so nervous, especially when landing not so precisely, or when the chassis gets "upset".

Last edited by flame56mx; 01-02-2014 at 04:52 AM.
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:12 AM
  #14979  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Guys ran the new UJ and F/R v4 arms as well. First impression......love the u-joints. New front arms not so much. Broke one in the first Q. After further inspection, it seems that TD notched the arm out for more clearance when the rim/tire is turned. What this means is it is thinner and broke off right there. I will be running the older style front arms until they revise this section.
That's a bummer on the arms. I saw that RPM just produced arms for the B44.2 which bums me out even more.
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:55 AM
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Thanks for the input on the pinion size. I'm going to start with a 19t. Probably better to start low and go up I figure.
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Old 01-02-2014, 12:23 PM
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I looked back through this thread , and havent really seen a recent post about MIP bypass shocks. I have been trying them , and was curious if anyone else was , and what kind of oil wt you ended up at ?
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Old 01-02-2014, 12:50 PM
  #14982  
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The UJ joints are great. Car has more free roll.

As for front arms. Yes there different shape more so you can move the hub forwards and backwards i beleive. So good tuning option.

If anyone has V4 and hasnt tried the 3 or 2 hole pistons yet definately worth a try!

JK
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by wittyname
I looked back through this thread , and havent really seen a recent post about MIP bypass shocks. I have been trying them , and was curious if anyone else was , and what kind of oil wt you ended up at ?
I ran RC Shox dual stage piston and loved then at first. But one thing I noticed is if the track is smooth and fast they are worse. If the track is blown out they are awesome. There was some high speed rythem sections that needed the car to stay low and fast. I just couldn't get that with this setup. To much rebound for me. I run 1.5 x 2 front and 1.3 x3 rear. 40/30

Originally Posted by Jarred King
The UJ joints are great. Car has more free roll.

As for front arms. Yes there different shape more so you can move the hub forwards and backwards i beleive. So good tuning option.

If anyone has V4 and hasnt tried the 3 or 2 hole pistons yet definately worth a try!

JK
Yes I like the 2/3 hole combo. As for the arms I like the tuning option for the hubs but the notch for the rim is to deep. Deeper than the original style. Not sure why, the rim never hits there anyways. It rubs the camber link end before it travels that far.
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:40 PM
  #14984  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
I ran RC Shox dual stage piston and loved then at first. But one thing I noticed is if the track is smooth and fast they are worse. If the track is blown out they are awesome. There was some high speed rythem sections that needed the car to stay low and fast. I just couldn't get that with this setup. To much rebound for me. I run 1.5 x 2 front and 1.3 x3 rear. 40/30



Yes I like the 2/3 hole combo. As for the arms I like the tuning option for the hubs but the notch for the rim is to deep. Deeper than the original style. Not sure why, the rim never hits there anyways. It rubs the camber link end before it travels that far.

Do the front center and rear center u joints fit your 3 diff chassis. I was going to order a few things, but thought your conversion used the desc410 ones. Also what body are you using.
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:48 PM
  #14985  
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Where is the best priced place to order up the v4 conversion parts?
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