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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 12-31-2013, 11:25 AM
  #14926  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Happy New Year Everyone!

I've had my V3 for a couple months now and I've had a couple of days of track time at SCVRC here in Cali and also one day at the ever famous OCRC. Let me say the DEX410 is the best 4 wheel I've ever driven and I haven't done much to set it up. Couple of questions for everyone here...

At first I ran the plastic shock towers from the R version because I broke one of the carbon towers in a bad crash with a SC truck. That's what I get for running on saturdays with all the crazies. I broke several of the plastic shock towers learning the track and car and have now switched back to carbon. The carbon actually seems more durable. I had a few tumbles at OCRC my most recent track day and I didn't break anything. Only a ball cup popped off. (My DEX210 was another story however…can't wait for Type B parts!) Are most of you running the Carbon towers? Or Aluminum? Do you find the Carbon breaks easily?

Lastly, are most of you running the rear sway bar? I've tried it with and without but need to do more testing to really understand what it does.

Thanks!

Hi

I run an aluminium front tower and I have removed the 2 outer holes on left and right side. At the rear I use the non finetune carbon tower.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:14 PM
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After 1.5 years I finally broke my first front tower, my son has taken a ball stud mount off of a pair. Found this while browsing..interesting idea, judging by the thickness maybe more than just added strength going on??
Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-screen-shot-2013-06-09-10.58.34-pm.jpg
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:17 PM
  #14928  
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Originally Posted by flame56mx
Found this while browsing..interesting idea, judging by the thickness maybe more than just added strength going on??
Attachment 1149633
That is super trick and clean.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:25 PM
  #14929  
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Originally Posted by flame56mx
After 1.5 years I finally broke my first front tower, my son has taken a ball stud mount off of a pair. Found this while browsing..interesting idea, judging by the thickness maybe more than just added strength going on??
Attachment 1149633
I'm more looking forward to this kind of shock tower / carpet protector:


these ones used for schumacher KF, less friction when falling upside down, reduce and re-distribute impact on shock tower (shock tower usually break in the end bit where the shock mounting holes are at, this can distribute some of those force into the body of shock tower).
and considering durango is so famous in europe running on carpet tracks, the carpet protecting function would be very useful for them as well.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:52 PM
  #14930  
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I run 10K Front 7K Rear and run on a large outdoor, Florida red clay track that's specifically designed for 1/10 but is large enough to run several 8th scale classes and on a large outdoor 8th scale track as well.
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Old 12-31-2013, 05:40 PM
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Just bought some 4" x 6" 1/8" brass to make the rear lower center weight. It cost about the same as ordering one, but I have enough material for 8 of them. I might use the excess for my other rc cars. I have a question, do any of you use two sets of batteries when you race? I always have two sets because I don't like charging a hot battery, and have never puffed a battery either. I know it is a hassle to remove them.

Last edited by platgof; 12-31-2013 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:31 PM
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You guys are seriously overthinkng battery removal on the 410. Just pull the slipper pin, then the battery pin and slightly raise the slipper assembly, lift the battery brace and slide them out towards the left side of the car. Slide the front one out, then slide the rear one forward and slide it out the same way. Insert fresh rear cell and slide back and then insert the front cell and any foam if needed. Done!

Takes my like 20-30 seconds at the most. The key is to have the left of the car towards you so you can pull everything in the same direction.
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Old 12-31-2013, 10:10 PM
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You mean like removing the wires first. Again, do you use two sets of batteries?
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by the incubus
You guys are seriously overthinkng battery removal on the 410. Just pull the slipper pin, then the battery pin and slightly raise the slipper assembly, lift the battery brace and slide them out towards the left side of the car. Slide the front one out, then slide the rear one forward and slide it out the same way. Insert fresh rear cell and slide back and then insert the front cell and any foam if needed. Done!

Takes my like 20-30 seconds at the most. The key is to have the left of the car towards you so you can pull everything in the same direction.
Originally Posted by platgof
You mean like removing the wires first. Again, do you use two sets of batteries?
Removing the wires first? What wires do you need to remove, other than unplugging the cells? Incubus is correct, removing the batteries from the car is not hard at all? There are quite a few cars out there that are much more frustrating than this one. As far as charging a hot battery, packs shouldn't get "hot", they can get a little warm, but have they ever puffed. The only puffed packs I have seen, are from shipping via high altitude, or storing them with a full charge..If your temps are on the high side, make sure you have enough holes in the shell to let air flow through, the bodies on all 4wd are tight and can be a little stuffy..

Last edited by flame56mx; 01-01-2014 at 05:26 AM.
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:28 AM
  #14935  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
You guys are seriously overthinkng battery removal on the 410. Just pull the slipper pin, then the battery pin and slightly raise the slipper assembly, lift the battery brace and slide them out towards the left side of the car. Slide the front one out, then slide the rear one forward and slide it out the same way. Insert fresh rear cell and slide back and then insert the front cell and any foam if needed. Done!

Takes my like 20-30 seconds at the most. The key is to have the left of the car towards you so you can pull everything in the same direction.
It only takes 30 seconds but my slipper pin is always super tight and annoying to pull off
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:32 AM
  #14936  
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Originally Posted by lee111m
It only takes 30 seconds but my slipper pin is always super tight and annoying to pull off
Would you like some cheese?

Just charge the packs in the buggy.. I don't ever pull mine out unless I'm cleaning it.
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:37 AM
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double?

Last edited by 8ight-e; 01-01-2014 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:45 AM
  #14938  
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Batteries don't get warm after the race? I guess the puffing at high altitude explains why airlines don't like them.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by lee111m
It only takes 30 seconds but my slipper pin is always super tight and annoying to pull off
Take a brass wheel to the slipper clip and take off the black coating. It will come out smoother. Although charging in the car is easier, I do not recommend it. There are plenty of pictures on here of entire vehicles ruined when the lipo charging goes wrong.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:04 AM
  #14940  
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I've just never viewed taking the batteries out an issue at all. I guess I'm used to it from both the buggy and shortcourse truck. It's one of those more you do it the easier it becomes. It does take however about a total of 10 seconds to do so if you don't have a spare 10 seconds you could always charge in the car and risk the problems that goes with it. Lol
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