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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-08-2013, 02:34 PM
  #13951  
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Originally Posted by B-RAD99
Just curious with no V3's in stock anywhere when they have the V4 out will they also have the V3 for sale for the killer price they are currently priced at?
They probably are producing less to avoid having to so just that. The proto v4 appears to share much with the v3 with mostyly chassis length and layout beingddifferent. Of course this likely creates other changes such as to drive shaft lengths.

Are ships out of the v3?
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Old 10-08-2013, 02:51 PM
  #13952  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
The center/diff slipper is something I have not heard of any of the pro's running. It basically makes the slipper slip indepently front to back so it is almost a diff but you can not adjust each end. Most likely you will cook the rear slipper pad on any high bite track. AE did this with the SC10 4x4 and it was a fail from the start.

Not worth it in my opinion.
That's what I was thinking, BUT I think if you were to get it just right it could add a little bit of drivability, though once you add the 21 blocks, the car is so much more consistent I don't think this would make enough of a difference to justify it. Also, I think that it would work more effectively if the system was done differently in that the thrust would be larger and reside between the outdrive and the spur on a plate to control how much torque is applied to the outdrive before applying it to the drive shaft.

If any of you factory guys run this can you inform us as to how well it works and if it's worth the chink of change for it?
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:55 AM
  #13953  
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I just picked up a new in box DEX410RV3
I know it is cheaper to get the 410v3 but I got a pretty good deal.
What are the essentials to get before I start the build?
This is my first Durango and the hinge pin suspension holder stuff looks a little different. Looking at the hop up parts is a little confusing.
Is there a front and rear alum holder sold together?
Do I need the carbon towers?
Anything else to help beef up the weak parts?

Thanks
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:40 AM
  #13954  
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Carbon Towers depend on how fast a motor you drop in it and your skill level. The V3 offers soooo much more over the R model. In Shock Towers and Shocks alone you're saving $180 at least if buying separate.

And while some will say big bores don't offer much improvement, having run the small bores for several months and then upgrading to the BB jammies, they improve the car considerably.

The only other thing I'd say you want to look at upgrading immediately are the 21 blocks as they make the car less twitchy without losing any steering.

As for the Hinge Pins, I love this system over any other I've ever used but the stock ones can bend depending on how hard you crash. I bent one hitting the flanged edge of a PVC Pipe while I was turning in fast for a pass. The nut on the wheel caught the edge and a snap it went.

Good luck with the build but I'd suggest you return or exchange for the V3 if you can help it.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:16 PM
  #13955  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Carbon Towers depend on how fast a motor you drop in it and your skill level. The V3 offers soooo much more over the R model. In Shock Towers and Shocks alone you're saving $180 at least if buying separate.

And while some will say big bores don't offer much improvement, having run the small bores for several months and then upgrading to the BB jammies, they improve the car considerably.

The only other thing I'd say you want to look at upgrading immediately are the 21 blocks as they make the car less twitchy without losing any steering.

As for the Hinge Pins, I love this system over any other I've ever used but the stock ones can bend depending on how hard you crash. I bent one hitting the flanged edge of a PVC Pipe while I was turning in fast for a pass. The nut on the wheel caught the edge and a snap it went.

Good luck with the build but I'd suggest you return or exchange for the V3 if you can help it.
Thanks for info but can't exchange it as it was private purchase.
Is it the hinge pins or holders that need to be replaced?
I am not new to racing at all but crashes do seem to happen in 4x4 a lot.
I'll run a 7.5 most likely. What does that have to do with towers? Are the carbon towers not as strong?
Thanks again
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:27 PM
  #13956  
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The hinge pins themselves. There are some that are a tad harder which from what I understand is all you need.

As for the towers, the faster the speed, the greater the force of impacts and stock plastic towers might not hold up. There are Carbon Fiber ones as well and the Aluminum ones, but I would stick with the Carbon Fiber ones.

As for the frequency of wrecks, I find it to be the same for every class and it always boils down to the skill level of the drivers participating. Less experienced drivers will crash more, though 4WD is usually comprised of people who have some experience in other classes and felt they'd like to try their hand at 4WD so less novice drivers competing. At least that's been my experience.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:30 PM
  #13957  
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Originally Posted by kevntri
I just picked up a new in box DEX410RV3
I know it is cheaper to get the 410v3 but I got a pretty good deal.
What are the essentials to get before I start the build?
This is my first Durango and the hinge pin suspension holder stuff looks a little different. Looking at the hop up parts is a little confusing.
Is there a front and rear alum holder sold together?
Do I need the carbon towers?
Anything else to help beef up the weak parts?

Thanks
You don't need the carbon towers.

Holders you need are:
TD330008 FR Susp holder
TD330307 RR Susp holder (v3 for inserts)
TD330309 Hanger Inserts
TD330004 FF Susp Holder
TD330006 RF Susp Holder
TD330037 Pivot Ball

I'd recommend also

TD310208 Diff Loop
TD330007 1degree hubs
TD320007 Brass Skid Plate 30g weight
TD330311 Servo Saver Arm
Aluminum Servo Arm for your Servo.

Have a couple sets of front arms and inner hinge pins in your pit box.
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Old 10-09-2013, 01:08 PM
  #13958  
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You guys are wrong about composite Vs Carbon fibers... Carbon fiber from Durango is very fragile, I snap a carbon fiber shock tower just on landing the composite is 6mm thick and they can hadle the impact better due to is more flexible vs CF shocks tower.. Since I switch to composite plastic shock tower I never broken one.. Well maybe one just because 1/8 buggy landed on top of my car during practice..
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Old 10-09-2013, 01:20 PM
  #13959  
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
You guys are wrong about composite Vs Carbon fibers... Carbon fiber from Durango is very fragile, I snap a carbon fiber shock tower just on landing the composite is 6mm thick and they can hadle the impact better due to is more flexible vs CF shocks tower.. Since I switch to composite plastic shock tower I never broken one.. Well maybe one just because 1/8 buggy landed on top of my car during practice..
I've broken 2 carbon front ones but in a very hard packed indoor track. Went to the v2 Alum one on the front.
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Old 10-09-2013, 01:48 PM
  #13960  
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Carbon fiber is inherently way stronger than Plastic so long as it is cured properly to exacting tolerances in an autoclave. This is why it is the premier material used to construct monocoques for F1, LMP, and many other types of race cars. It's tensile strength to weight is virtually unparalleled by anything else known to man and its rigidity and strength can be controlled depending on the type of weave chosen as well as how it's laid down before mating with resin.

I've taken quite a few HARD spills and have been run over by a few 8th scales and a bunch of 10th scales and have landed quite hard countless times and my towers show only the slightest bit of wear on the upper most edges. Structurally they are perfectly sound.

If you have Carbon Fiber Shock Towers and they snap because they are fragile, I'm sure a call to Durango/Great Planes would get you a replacement. My experience with them has been extremely pleasant every time and they stand by their customers. I'd say just as good as TLR and Avid in that regard.
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Old 10-09-2013, 03:54 PM
  #13961  
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has anyone tryed the 2 way slipper with 2 different front and rear pads ?
like the heavy dutty one than asso make or else.

To apply different forces front or rear.

Something like the old slipper from xx4 one was grey the other black.
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:27 PM
  #13962  
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
You don't need the carbon towers.

Holders you need are:
TD330008 FR Susp holder
TD330307 RR Susp holder (v3 for inserts)
TD330309 Hanger Inserts
TD330004 FF Susp Holder
TD330006 RF Susp Holder
TD330037 Pivot Ball

I'd recommend also

TD310208 Diff Loop
TD330007 1degree hubs
TD320007 Brass Skid Plate 30g weight
TD330311 Servo Saver Arm
Aluminum Servo Arm for your Servo.

Have a couple sets of front arms and inner hinge pins in your pit box.
Thanks man....
this was the response I was hoping for.
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:00 PM
  #13963  
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So, working on installing the 21* caster blocks, do they require different plastic shims between the hub and the block? The plastic block required 1 thin shim. It looks like I will need a think shim on both sides. Is there a preferred method of shimming these?
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:31 PM
  #13964  
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Originally Posted by Ruger357
So, working on installing the 21* caster blocks, do they require different plastic shims between the hub and the block? The plastic block required 1 thin shim. It looks like I will need a think shim on both sides. Is there a preferred method of shimming these?
Total shim adjustment is 3mm. Just add more shims, if I remember correctly 2mm on the top and 1 on the bottom puts the axle in the middle of the block. Tune as needed.
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:22 AM
  #13965  
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Vertical Shim Reference:






For horizontal (front to back) you'll want to place the shim behind the Caster Block to keep the wheelbase as long as possible. I use aluminum washers all around but I cannot remember off the top of my head, what thickness shim goes there. Just place one that eliminates all play and you'll be good.
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