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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-07-2013, 10:32 AM
  #13936  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
+1

I've seen more ae arms break than ANY other brand.. but honestly if you don't have control of the vehicle #1 get a 13.5 and learn to hold the line and not hit everything on the track and jump smooth through features. #2 maybe just simply try a different class. 4wd buggies are by far one of the easiest to break iMO.. keep in mind you are turning laps several seconds faster than ANYTHING else on the track. The more you beef something up the more it will weigh and a slew of other issues can come into play. Again.. if you want to be able to run into every pipe go w/ SCT. That said in two years racing now w/ my dex410 I've broke one rear arm (hit a wall) and had a pin come out of one of my drive shafts.

This will help all your racing.. focus on the lines and not hitting anything and being "smooth"... buggy will last, race time will go down, everyone happy

btw if you pop a ball cup 2x replace it Make sure the turnbuckles are always loose and if you didn't already do it on the steering hub replace the screw on ball top with a standard ball stud and nut,, this gives a lot more movement and reduces potential pops dramatically iMO. I use a 1mm spacer under the standard short ball stud, the nut just bites and it doesn't inhibit your throw.
what ball studs are you talking about? part #?
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:23 PM
  #13937  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
what ball studs are you talking about? part #?
Just grab the part #'s form the desc410 build.. use the long studs on the rear hub as well with a nut.. 330035 for the front stud, 330347 on the rear hub, with 715001 nuts on both. The truck I don't run the 1mm spacer and you don't have to on the buggy... but I do. It's an immediate improvement.. and the rear going through the hub is simply for durability.. I did have one tear out of the rear hub on my desc210 on the large 1/8 outdoor track we run,, from that point on I swapped them all to the long stud w/ nut and never a single issue (I learn quick).

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Old 10-07-2013, 05:40 PM
  #13938  
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I found a write up on Pettit rc today. It shows what parts are needed to accept 25mm lipos . Looks like I might be better off to get shorter packs.

Rifleman, I'll look and see if that might work. Are you talking about a 410r?
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:35 PM
  #13939  
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Originally Posted by thephunnel
I found a write up on Pettit rc today. It shows what parts are needed to accept 25mm lipos . Looks like I might be better off to get shorter packs.

Rifleman, I'll look and see if that might work. Are you talking about a 410r?
You should not need parts for 25mm lipos if you have the 410r. Measure your lipos first and then make sure you are using the correct holes in battery hold mechanisms.
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:07 PM
  #13940  
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I have s dex410 V3 with one race on it and spare parts with a couple of sets of wheels and tires for sale. I'm asking $250 obo. Message me your email for pictures.
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Old 10-08-2013, 04:59 AM
  #13941  
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Just started to build the kit. It seems to be going together alright thus far. Only slight irritation is that the kit does not have diff oil in the box but I can build up the rest whilst that gets delivered so not a major problem. Hopefully I should get this built up and ready to go race by Friday, so I will report on how it handles then.
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Old 10-08-2013, 05:23 AM
  #13942  
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Originally Posted by thephunnel
I found a write up on Pettit rc today. It shows what parts are needed to accept 25mm lipos . Looks like I might be better off to get shorter packs.

Rifleman, I'll look and see if that might work. Are you talking about a 410r?
Yes I am, its not a bad job, just a little "massaging"
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Old 10-08-2013, 05:24 AM
  #13943  
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Originally Posted by trr061984
Just started to build the kit. It seems to be going together alright thus far. Only slight irritation is that the kit does not have diff oil in the box but I can build up the rest whilst that gets delivered so not a major problem. Hopefully I should get this built up and ready to go race by Friday, so I will report on how it handles then.
Yeah, that threw me for a loop as well.
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:34 AM
  #13944  
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Originally Posted by rifleman223
Yeah, that threw me for a loop as well.
It is the more irritating because it does not say in the manual that you need to purchase this individually!
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:37 AM
  #13945  
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Nothing extra is needed to fit 25mm tall lipos in......
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:42 AM
  #13946  
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Anyhow, are there any essential hop ups that I should be incorporating into the build? Two way slipper seems a good idea to me (but that means nothing) and the aluminium hubs?
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:29 PM
  #13947  
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What's the difference between the standard kit Slipper and the 2-way slipper that costs almost an arm an a leg?
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:36 PM
  #13948  
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The center/diff slipper is something I have not heard of any of the pro's running. It basically makes the slipper slip indepently front to back so it is almost a diff but you can not adjust each end. Most likely you will cook the rear slipper pad on any high bite track. AE did this with the SC10 4x4 and it was a fail from the start.

Not worth it in my opinion.
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:55 PM
  #13949  
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Originally Posted by trr061984
Anyhow, are there any essential hop ups that I should be incorporating into the build? Two way slipper seems a good idea to me (but that means nothing) and the aluminium hubs?
Did you buy the R?

After one run on mine, I purchased the 21* caster blocks and the rear skid weight. I would not even run the plastic skid. It caused far too many problems.
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Old 10-08-2013, 02:17 PM
  #13950  
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Just curious with no V3's in stock anywhere when they have the V4 out will they also have the V3 for sale for the killer price they are currently priced at?
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