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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-06-2013, 05:31 PM
  #13921  
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Hopefully you guys can help me out here. I tried to do a search on this thread but did not find an answer. I've just finished building my new Dex410r and have realized that my saddle packs don't fit (too tall). I think I had read something before about this being an issue that was resolved on the v3. Does anyone know if there is an update kit for this problem or what parts I might need to order?
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:56 PM
  #13922  
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Originally Posted by thephunnel
Hopefully you guys can help me out here. I tried to do a search on this thread but did not find an answer. I've just finished building my new Dex410r and have realized that my saddle packs don't fit (too tall). I think I had read something before about this being an issue that was resolved on the v3. Does anyone know if there is an update kit for this problem or what parts I might need to order?
Is your DEX410R a DEX410Rv3 or an old model and are your saddles taller than 25mm?
Saddles taller than 25mm won't fit without modifications.
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:16 PM
  #13923  
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Originally Posted by thephunnel
Hopefully you guys can help me out here. I tried to do a search on this thread but did not find an answer. I've just finished building my new Dex410r and have realized that my saddle packs don't fit (too tall). I think I had read something before about this being an issue that was resolved on the v3. Does anyone know if there is an update kit for this problem or what parts I might need to order?
The battery hold down has a pin that goes through the rear diff circle holder.. try moving it up to the top slot. If that still doesn't buy you the clearance you need you could always put a couple 1mm washer under the diff circle hold down raising the entire thing slightly. I wouldn't bother with the diff area unless you have to but that is a LOT of work in lieu of just getting a battery that fits.
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:04 PM
  #13924  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
The battery hold down has a pin that goes through the rear diff circle holder.. try moving it up to the top slot. If that still doesn't buy you the clearance you need you could always put a couple 1mm washer under the diff circle hold down raising the entire thing slightly. I wouldn't bother with the diff area unless you have to but that is a LOT of work in lieu of just getting a battery that fits.
You don't want to put washer under the diff holder. It will throw off the angle of the driveshaft and the diff won't seat right.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:04 AM
  #13925  
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Thanks guys. Its a dex410r. Looks like the upper slot for the pin is not going to give me enough room. The saddles are 25mm. I might have to make my own hold down or get new batteries.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:18 AM
  #13926  
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Originally Posted by huzzler
You don't want to put washer under the diff holder. It will throw off the angle of the driveshaft and the diff won't seat right.
I only suggested it because I did it for a while with success and no issues. My packs poofed a touch and needed a little extra clearance. Worked fine for the month or so I did it. Obviously first choice is simply getting packs that fit ;P
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:31 AM
  #13927  
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Originally Posted by thephunnel
Thanks guys. Its a dex410r. Looks like the upper slot for the pin is not going to give me enough room. The saddles are 25mm. I might have to make my own hold down or get new batteries.
Just had a look at the TD site, apparently the DEX410R had the same battery mounting parts as the current model, so your batteries should fit
http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dex410r/
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:33 AM
  #13928  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
I only suggested it because I did it for a while with success and no issues. My packs poofed a touch and needed a little extra clearance. Worked fine for the month or so I did it. Obviously first choice is simply getting packs that fit ;P
Its not going to ruin the car, only thing it will do is prematurely wear the cvd joint parts exiting the diff. If you get too extreme the cvd bone will get too short to reach the center diff. The rear diff doesnt seat into anything. The diff shoulders is the case are round, not oval shaped so it can basically rotate to where ever the holder is located. Do you want the cvd parts to wear quickly, thats the question..
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:24 AM
  #13929  
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Originally Posted by mlinder
Rifleman,

You are it alone. I, too raced a B44.2 from its first release until about a month ago. It suffered from some front arm breakage from clipping pipe at corners, but the newer designed arms (adding webbing) helped a lot. I bought the DEX410v3 because 1) the recent blow out pricing was hard to refuse, and 2) I like to build these things mostly, but race as well. I have run the 410 twice having just received it about three weeks ago. This car feelsvery aggressive, which I like. However, I have already broken one each rear left/right arms. The first break was totally my fault, down the straight full tilt, and brain farted into the wall. The second was the one that surprised me. The right arm snapped out at the hub on really the lightest tap of the pipe, in a slow corner. A local racer runs the 210 and warned me about brittle plastic : / He used to run the 410 but sand he had lots of arm breakage, so now he runs the 2wd only (slower). I guess it goes with the territory, as these 4wd buggies really scoot! After all, there were a few breaks at the Worlds last week in 4wd. So much speed, that something has to give, I guess.

Maybe earlier kits plastic was formulated differently than these later kits? This can happen. This could also have something to do with the carbon arm breakages, though I have not experienced that yet. I know from experience in my CNC carbon fiber machining business, according to my supplier, that small, minute changes in the carbon panel formulation can have various effects on the structure of the laminate. Maybe over time the carbon panels used have changes slightly in formulation? Just speculating.

I really like the way this car performs. I hope it will be a keeper. I have read that boiling the arms may help in taking away the brittleness some have experienced? Worth a try, I think.

Mark
Mark,

I feel the same way you do on this. I think that it is a more aggressive car. If only I was not so afraid to break on an imperfect landing.

I will see about the boiling but I still think that Durango should look at the parts' durability and mostly lack of malleability of the parts. In the meantime, I will try the aluminum arms as others suggested.

Jerome
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:29 AM
  #13930  
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Originally Posted by flame56mx
IMO what we all need to remember is that all of these cars have too much power and traction for their scale. My son can break anything, at anytime, so I was very nervous about getting him a 4wd. I will say he does test my parts supply, but at least he keeps my stock rotated and fresh. What I have seen with his car, as he breaks at one time per race day is, even if the car didn't DNF on the 16 cartwheel crash down the back straight, doesn't mean something didn't crack or fracture, and that light rub on the pipe that pulled the rear arm arm off wasn't a brittle car syndrome. Like in real life, just because you walk away, doesn't mean you didn't break stuff.
To be honest this is stating the obvious.I am trying making a point that my experience is different than most. And I have the luxury of comparing similar cars very similarly equipped and on the same track. If I have one car that sustains crashes and the other one that simply will not, then I will draw conclusions based on that simple fact.

I don't want to sound like a flamer but I think that the car's parts are brittle and despite all that I really love it but I want to see changes in the durability. I will swap out some parts based on the suggestions here.
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:32 AM
  #13931  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
The battery hold down has a pin that goes through the rear diff circle holder.. try moving it up to the top slot. If that still doesn't buy you the clearance you need you could always put a couple 1mm washer under the diff circle hold down raising the entire thing slightly. I wouldn't bother with the diff area unless you have to but that is a LOT of work in lieu of just getting a battery that fits.
I had the same issue with my battery hold-down. I took a drill and slightly egged out the holes and I also beveled the leading edge of the pin to "catch" the hole better. Works like a charm.
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:37 AM
  #13932  
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Originally Posted by rifleman223
I will try the aluminum arms as others suggested.

Jerome
i've never been a fan of alum arms for racing...cuz once they bend, it's very difficult to get the back to "factory spec." meaning it can throw your tuning/handling off after a crash.

now for bashing...i use RPM arms. but alum is a good option for bashing since the tune of the chassis isn't as big of a deal.

i understand what you guys are saying. buggies are much more fragile than SCT's and a lot of other vehicles. especially cuz how fast they are. but they are much more agile also. i drive mine a lot slower than the other guys...but that's cuz i'm still getting used to it and don't want to break it (only raced it 3 times so far).
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:32 AM
  #13933  
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Originally Posted by tksnobords
i've never been a fan of alum arms for racing...cuz once they bend, it's very difficult to get the back to "factory spec." meaning it can throw your tuning/handling off after a crash.

now for bashing...i use RPM arms. but alum is a good option for bashing since the tune of the chassis isn't as big of a deal.

i understand what you guys are saying. buggies are much more fragile than SCT's and a lot of other vehicles. especially cuz how fast they are. but they are much more agile also. i drive mine a lot slower than the other guys...but that's cuz i'm still getting used to it and don't want to break it (only raced it 3 times so far).
+1

I've seen more ae arms break than ANY other brand.. but honestly if you don't have control of the vehicle #1 get a 13.5 and learn to hold the line and not hit everything on the track and jump smooth through features. #2 maybe just simply try a different class. 4wd buggies are by far one of the easiest to break iMO.. keep in mind you are turning laps several seconds faster than ANYTHING else on the track. The more you beef something up the more it will weigh and a slew of other issues can come into play. Again.. if you want to be able to run into every pipe go w/ SCT. That said in two years racing now w/ my dex410 I've broke one rear arm (hit a wall) and had a pin come out of one of my drive shafts.

This will help all your racing.. focus on the lines and not hitting anything and being "smooth"... buggy will last, race time will go down, everyone happy

btw if you pop a ball cup 2x replace it Make sure the turnbuckles are always loose and if you didn't already do it on the steering hub replace the screw on ball top with a standard ball stud and nut,, this gives a lot more movement and reduces potential pops dramatically iMO. I use a 1mm spacer under the standard short ball stud, the nut just bites and it doesn't inhibit your throw.

Last edited by 8ight-e; 10-07-2013 at 07:56 AM.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:34 AM
  #13934  
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I have been running my DEX410V3 since it was first released and I broke only one front arm. I am running a Mach 2 6.0 motor so the car is very fast. It is much more durable than the other 4wd's I have tried (B44, D4, Yokomo...)

At these speeds, if you hit a fix object or land poorly you are going to stress the materials and it will eventually break.

Run a 1/8e if you want something that can take a beating.
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:20 AM
  #13935  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
on the steering hub replace the screw on ball top with a standard ball stud and nut,, this gives a lot more movement and reduces potential pops dramatically iMO. I use a 1mm spacer under the standard short ball stud, the nut just bites and it doesn't inhibit your throw.
i was wondering about that. i am new to buggy racing and the durango. i dont like how the ball screws together. it came unscrewed recently. i put just a dab of lock tite...hoping to secure it while still being able to remove it in the future.

so you like your standard balls (no pun intended)?
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