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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-06-2013, 06:13 AM
  #13906  
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I have been running 4wd for a very long time. While im not the greatest driver, I can hold my own in a lot of races. I know the car will take a tumble here and there, that's the nature of the hobby. I know that some of you don't have the same experience I have and I do think that it is fair to say that your track may be slightly different. I know that my landings that snap the shock towers and arms should have not broken them. Im sick of buying cf towers already. I have spares for my B44 but I have yet to replace one.

I am strictly comparing the 2 cars side by side. I think I can definitely go faster with the car but I cannot make it stay in one piece. I cannot drive this car hard because of the fear that I will snap something.
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:30 AM
  #13907  
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
for guys who break their shock towers, maybe this can give you better luck.

put a piece of residual lexan, fit and drill two holes.
smoother edge (shock tower won't dig and break), less rubbing on the carbon fiber, and distribute some friction force onto the shock post.
Not the most elegant solution but its worth a try. Much cheaper than a tower. Thank you.
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:34 AM
  #13908  
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For shock towers, go with the older non fine tune ones as found on the first model, they have a couple less holes and are much stronger, or go with the aluminum ones found on the original R car, both are much more durable (well, you can bend the alloy one, but won't DNF) Upgrading to the tresrey hinge pins also seems to make arms last longer. I know, you shouldn't need to upgrade out of the box, but if you're having issues, those 2 should solve most of them. From what I've seem the durango cars are pretty durable compared to others, but no 4wd is as strong as the newer gen 2wd's (dex210, 22 etc)

You can also slap washers on both sides of the tower so they take more of the abuse, also seems to help, similar to the lexan option.
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:40 AM
  #13909  
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I have not broken a shock tower yet, but from the looks of them they look real beefy. They are definitely thicker than the b44.2's, which i have started to crack the ears of the rear shock tower over an entire season (b44.2)
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:58 AM
  #13910  
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Rifleman,

You are it alone. I, too raced a B44.2 from its first release until about a month ago. It suffered from some front arm breakage from clipping pipe at corners, but the newer designed arms (adding webbing) helped a lot. I bought the DEX410v3 because 1) the recent blow out pricing was hard to refuse, and 2) I like to build these things mostly, but race as well. I have run the 410 twice having just received it about three weeks ago. This car feelsvery aggressive, which I like. However, I have already broken one each rear left/right arms. The first break was totally my fault, down the straight full tilt, and brain farted into the wall. The second was the one that surprised me. The right arm snapped out at the hub on really the lightest tap of the pipe, in a slow corner. A local racer runs the 210 and warned me about brittle plastic : / He used to run the 410 but sand he had lots of arm breakage, so now he runs the 2wd only (slower). I guess it goes with the territory, as these 4wd buggies really scoot! After all, there were a few breaks at the Worlds last week in 4wd. So much speed, that something has to give, I guess.

Maybe earlier kits plastic was formulated differently than these later kits? This can happen. This could also have something to do with the carbon arm breakages, though I have not experienced that yet. I know from experience in my CNC carbon fiber machining business, according to my supplier, that small, minute changes in the carbon panel formulation can have various effects on the structure of the laminate. Maybe over time the carbon panels used have changes slightly in formulation? Just speculating.

I really like the way this car performs. I hope it will be a keeper. I have read that boiling the arms may help in taking away the brittleness some have experienced? Worth a try, I think.

Mark
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Old 10-06-2013, 07:15 AM
  #13911  
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Originally Posted by mlinder
The second was the one that surprised me. The right arm snapped out at the hub on really the lightest tap of the pipe, in a slow corner.
it's very possible you had already damaged the arm without noticing prior to the break. my buddy was racing his truck and after a heat he noticed his arm was cracked. he was one "light" tap away from breaking completely. obviously he changed the arm before the main. FYI this was NOT on a dex410. the secret to not breaking is don't run with sct's hahahhaha. a guy drove straight over my buggy last night with his desc410. not cool.

if anyone is worried about breaking parts...you should race SCT lol. way tougher and can take a real beating with the closed wheel style. when my non-racer friends come out...they can drive my 17.5 sct...but can't even touch my buggy lol.
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Old 10-06-2013, 07:15 AM
  #13912  
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IMO what we all need to remember is that all of these cars have too much power and traction for their scale. My son can break anything, at anytime, so I was very nervous about getting him a 4wd. I will say he does test my parts supply, but at least he keeps my stock rotated and fresh. What I have seen with his car, as he breaks at one time per race day is, even if the car didn't DNF on the 16 cartwheel crash down the back straight, doesn't mean something didn't crack or fracture, and that light rub on the pipe that pulled the rear arm arm off wasn't a brittle car syndrome. Like in real life, just because you walk away, doesn't mean you didn't break stuff.
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Old 10-06-2013, 07:50 AM
  #13913  
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Originally Posted by tksnobords
it's very possible you had already damaged the arm without noticing prior to the break. my buddy was racing his truck and after a heat he noticed his arm was cracked. he was one "light" tap away from breaking completely. obviously he changed the arm before the main. FYI this was NOT on a dex410. the secret to not breaking is don't run with sct's hahahhaha. a guy drove straight over my buggy last night with his desc410. not cool.

if anyone is worried about breaking parts...you should race SCT lol. way tougher and can take a real beating with the closed wheel style. when my non-racer friends come out...they can drive my 17.5 sct...but can't even touch my buggy lol.
That is a very good point. The night the rear right arm broke on the light tap was a practice night with a lot of, um, green drivers . I was used for a berm several times that night. Haha. Or, I could have started that break during that brain fart straightaway crash I mentioned. Good point for sure.

In any case, I really like the car. The design is cool. I have learned so much from many here. And it IS fast!

Mark
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:03 AM
  #13914  
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Originally Posted by mlinder
I was used for a berm several times that night. Haha.
yeah some of the other guys used my sct truck as a brake in the corners last night hahahhaha
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:53 AM
  #13915  
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Has anyone swapped their dogbone pins?
What did you replace them with and where did you get them?
Im after 2.5mm ones length can be cut by me
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:06 PM
  #13916  
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
Has anyone swapped their dogbone pins?
What did you replace them with and where did you get them?
Im after 2.5mm ones length can be cut by me
Buy some 2.5mm pin gauges, they are very wear resistant. I cut them 1-2mm longer so that the holes in the cup wear evenly if you know what I mean....
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:54 PM
  #13917  
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Thanks I know exactually what you mean, I have several outdrives that look fine from the outside, but not on the inside

Where would a good place to get it?
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:00 PM
  #13918  
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Well, I picked up a Durango 410 today (I intended to purchase an Xb4 but the Durango was a third of the price so was too good to not buy). Any tips on the build? Read on here that we have some issues with short drive shafts or something like that? Also, am I best boiling the a arms from the get go to avoid breakages?
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:14 PM
  #13919  
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
Thanks I know exactually what you mean, I have several outdrives that look fine from the outside, but not on the inside

Where would a good place to get it?
I went to a local tool supply company that supplies local machine shops with tools. Wow that sounded redundant. Lol
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:53 PM
  #13920  
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
Has anyone swapped their dogbone pins?
What did you replace them with and where did you get them?
Im after 2.5mm ones length can be cut by me
I replaced my worn pins with some from Mugen's 10th scale MTX.
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