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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 09-22-2013, 09:20 PM
  #13681  
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You are using the Durango pins with the notch cut in them on the drive line parts?

Be sure and spray the barrel threads and the set screw before applying the thread lock on the set screw. It will not hold if greasy. After it sets then grease the joint.
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:19 AM
  #13682  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
The more antiquat you add, the more on power steering you will get so I dont understand why you would run so much.

I am running 10/10 with a 2mm front swaybar and have no oversteer what soever. I drives like an e buggy now, very stable and can be pushed hard.....
it's the slight moment it exit the corner when I started to get on power, if I failed to get it smooth and get it a bit too hard for a split second, the tail will happily go out and keeps sliding.
1. maybe I am supposed to set some expo in controller, but practicing to handle it is part of the fun.
2. all my other classes requires a bit punchy throttle when pushing out of the corner (17.5t buggy has sloppy low end, 4wd SCT and 1/8 ebuggy are heavy and doesn't react to power very instantly.)
3. it was on medium grip clay track, mostly a bit dry on practice day, and I'm using proline ion (clay) front and aka handle bar (clay) rear. both are new tire and the handle bar is less broken in.

I added a bunch of anti squad so,
1. lower roll center compare to before, so the rear rotates more before it gives up.
2. the wheel base increases so more grip when accelerating.

with some practice and the anti squad change, it's pretty easy to get a handle on it.
*found the car has tremendous grip when carry the speed and not going sideways. (or maybe it's the tire).
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:53 AM
  #13683  
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Originally Posted by coaltrain
So it looks like the Durango team will be running the new updated 4WD car at the worlds. I was looking at the KustomRCGraphics forum and saw a body painted in Travis Amezcua's colors but didnt recognize the shell. I went to oople and found a recent pic of Jorns 4wd with wide chassis and he is running the Pro-Line BD for the TRF502x and thats the same one I saw painted up for Travis.The chassis pics from the bottom show its a big change from the original 410 chassis, its very wide, much more room for esc/rx!
Hey coaltrain, if you get a second throw up the links to what you found. I'd love to see it.
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:06 AM
  #13684  
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
it's the slight moment it exit the corner when I started to get on power, if I failed to get it smooth and get it a bit too hard for a split second, the tail will happily go out and keeps sliding.
1. maybe I am supposed to set some expo in controller, but practicing to handle it is part of the fun.
2. all my other classes requires a bit punchy throttle when pushing out of the corner (17.5t buggy has sloppy low end, 4wd SCT and 1/8 ebuggy are heavy and doesn't react to power very instantly.)
3. it was on medium grip clay track, mostly a bit dry on practice day, and I'm using proline ion (clay) front and aka handle bar (clay) rear. both are new tire and the handle bar is less broken in.

I added a bunch of anti squad so,
1. lower roll center compare to before, so the rear rotates more before it gives up.
2. the wheel base increases so more grip when accelerating.

with some practice and the anti squad change, it's pretty easy to get a handle on it.
*found the car has tremendous grip when carry the speed and not going sideways. (or maybe it's the tire).
That sounds exactly like the issues I once had. What oils are you running in the diff's.

I know this sounds weird, but once I went to 10/10k oils in the diff's, raised the roll center in the rear, added a thicker front sway bar and went went much thicker in the dampening I have so much rear grip that it pushes like an e buggy. I can get on throttle as hard as I want without the rear getting squirly.....
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner
Hey coaltrain, if you get a second throw up the links to what you found. I'd love to see it.




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Old 09-23-2013, 08:11 AM
  #13686  
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Originally Posted by coaltrain


These 2 pics are a 2wd with the 4wd transmission, that they have been testing. The new 4wd could share the same chassis.
http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps73ad5eeb.jpg
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135874
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:39 AM
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That makes sense and the Gill slits on the left front of the chassis should be there as a way to better dissipate heat from the motor. While the current chassis is a bit tight on space, I really liked that because it kept the body more sleek looking and I sincerely hope they stick with an iteration of the Kuhler body rather than an ugly cab forward design as pictured thus far. The Kuhler body is unlike anything else on the market and is simply beautiful.

The only cab forward body I've seen that looks really good is the one on the PR S1. That body is so slim, trim and sleek it's ridiculous.
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by the incubus
That makes sense and the Gill slits on the left front of the chassis should be there as a way to better dissipate heat from the motor. While the current chassis is a bit tight on space, I really liked that because it kept the body more sleek looking and I sincerely hope they stick with an iteration of the Kuhler body rather than an ugly cab forward design as pictured thus far. The Kuhler body is unlike anything else on the market and is simply beautiful.

The only cab forward body I've seen that looks really good is the one on the PR S1. That body is so slim, trim and sleek it's ridiculous.
I had seen a few chassis that had the vent slits on the bottom of the chassis and I wondered how much more air flow/heat dissipation it had over the full unvented chassis. I agree, I hope they keep it along the same kind of lines that they've had because it does look so good and no need to fix it if it ain't broke.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:02 AM
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From the pictures I have seen it looks like most of the buggy is the same with the battery/chassis changing and the little bits that make that all work. It looks possible that the current v3 can be updated to a V4. I bought a a DEX410r for extra parts but one of my local tracks is going Astro indoor off-road so I am going to try the small bore shocks and build a 2w/4w buggy to tinker with.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:23 AM
  #13690  
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I ran mine for the first time and I have to say even with my aweful driving the car was VERY good! I ran a shorty and it was a lil nose heavy, have a saddle on the way and that should get it balanced, will give it a go this weekend!
Any body got a good body option besides the stock one? Wanna get one to my painter before our big race comes around! I was looking at the bulldog.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:44 AM
  #13691  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
That sounds exactly like the issues I once had. What oils are you running in the diff's.

I know this sounds weird, but once I went to 10/10k oils in the diff's, raised the roll center in the rear, added a thicker front sway bar and went went much thicker in the dampening I have so much rear grip that it pushes like an e buggy. I can get on throttle as hard as I want without the rear getting squirly.....
10K/3K front/rear. trying to have off power oversteer and power understeer.
shock setup is: F:1.6x2 w/ losi 45 oil. R: 1.6x2 w/ losi 35 oil. stock springs. From the jumps it sounds just right. (19mm ride height, no chassis slam (when too soft), and not bumping around either (when too hard)).
Seems what you did is to reduce roll in the front (with anti roll bar), and reduce roll in the rear (with high roll center). seems ideal for high grip like smooth sugar track.
I just don't think our local track is flat and grippy as yours then.

*remind me of something, when many friends just got their SCT410, they were all suffering from some tail slide problems, that car was also very nose heavy.
Their solution was actually use (much) harder springs. perhaps to keep all wheels on the ground then. (inside rear may lift off to increase steering, but that could be too much steering). Though that's logical for off power, not sure what's happening to on power though.
Anyways the car's running good right now, I'll have a try about others later.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner
The heat is also my concern, I personally love the mass it makes the car feel more controllable and planted. I feel it gives the suspension something to work with. I've heard of someone mounting a fan in the car towards the motor but I haven't been able to find the picture and how they did it.

Jconcepts 0233 Illuzion body allows room for a fan and heatsink directly on top of the motor. Of course that means your wires have to be on the side.
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by metoo
Jconcepts 0233 Illuzion body allows room for a fan and heatsink directly on top of the motor. Of course that means your wires have to be on the side.
So last week I changed out my jumper cable from a 14 gauge wire to a 12 gauge wire, temps went down by about 5 degrees. Today I dial in some turbo because I'm too slow down our straight and my temps went down 5 or so more degrees! I'm geared 87/20 running an Orion R10 pro esc and a Reedy Sonic 7.5 motor. Anyone else ever experience this?

thanks! I think I have one.
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by huzzler
Had same issues with shock shaft washers and pin for center diff. I allready had a v2 with v3 upgrades so I was familiar with the build. A far as the battery config,it really isn't that hard to change batteries. I have done it so many times now that its a piece of cake. Actually didnt really care about the diff oil because they probably would of put something in there i wouldnt use any way. This has been my experience with past kits that come with diff oil. The online manual is a little better but I think it is for older version so some stuff is a little different.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...oDEX410v3.html
Found the same issues as you...and yes, the online manual helps. I had to use a Dremel tool open the shaft washers a bit. I found a few incorrect part numbers and incorrect screw sizes mentioned in the manual. A few things stand out

1) The long set screw used to make the servo link that is in the package with the steering rack is too long. I had to cut it down. Later I discovered one that was the right length in one of the spare hardware bags.

2) The M3x5 screws in the first stage of construction of the steering rack are really supposed to be M3x8

3) The manual seems to call out one drive hex for the front and a different one for the rear. In actuality they are the same.

4) The assembly order shown for the pivot ball and spacer during the rear suspension arm assembly is wrong.


Problems with my kit:
- Servo saver arm and 25t servo horn were mis-molded and unusable. I already had aluminum ones to install.
- A bottom shock pivot ball was left out of the kit. Had to order one.
- The bottom slot in the motor mount is a bit too tight for the supplied washer. I used a smaller washer.

A tip when building the shocks.... use a sharp Xacto type blade and cut a 1/2mm x 45 degree chamfer around the lead end of each of the plastic preload nuts. Otherwise, you are guaranteed to go into a cussing fit trying to get them on the shock bodies. They actually go on smooth and easily with this modification. I also had to do a bit f Dremel work to get my shorty lipos to fit. This also allowed me to install a 60g bar of brass next to the battery.

Last edited by metoo; 09-23-2013 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by huzzler
Honestly I don't know how you can use the mounting plate. There is barely any room in this thing for the esc. Everyone I know just mounts it straight to chassis including myself.
I mounted the tray 180 degrees as I wanted to be able to get the ESC out of the way easily to gain access to the servo horn screw. Plus this allowed the antenna mount to be where the body has the most space. My ESC isn't what I would call, compact. It also has a fan on top of it.





Last edited by metoo; 09-23-2013 at 06:47 PM.
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