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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 09-12-2013, 12:48 PM
  #13561  
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Originally Posted by huzzler
I don't see how battery jumper wire will make motor run hotter. Maybe esc but not motor.
your guess is as good as mine. I'm gonna see what the temps look like when I run a few more pack thru it.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:30 PM
  #13562  
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The difference between 12-14 gauge is at best, nominal. I ran all 12 on my 410 and temps were high and since I swapped out all electronics and didn't have anymore of the nice 12 gauge, I went with the 14 and I feel no difference. The fan is new for me and I will be testing it for the first time on Saturday so I will report back on how much of a difference it makes. I felt that at $9 it was a no risk investment for my motor.

I am however heavily considering selling the Orion and going with an LRP since they are designed to handle higher temps better than most other motors. The one on my T4 survived a bad short and it never skipped a beat. I hear Reedy motors can handle higher temps about as well, though the only one I have experience with is my son's 17.5 which doesn't heat up much, if any.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:38 PM
  #13563  
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner
I bet it got louder! Lol! I think those things are about 1mm to 1.5mm, it could be an rc missle! The track at mike's isn't a fast layout after the recent change. The fastest I've heard and see are mid 19s.

Bring it out! The layout is the last one before the move.
It's faster than the turf track at monkey for sure... Even with the 10t at 70 percent, I am pinned for a split second on our banked turn, and that's it.

I prolly won't be able to get out there till after next weekend(after the Sweep race). We start on the build for the new track Saturday morning, and I'll be running till it's done...
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:57 PM
  #13564  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
The difference between 12-14 gauge is at best, nominal. I ran all 12 on my 410 and temps were high and since I swapped out all electronics and didn't have anymore of the nice 12 gauge, I went with the 14 and I feel no difference. The fan is new for me and I will be testing it for the first time on Saturday so I will report back on how much of a difference it makes. I felt that at $9 it was a no risk investment for my motor.

I am however heavily considering selling the Orion and going with an LRP since they are designed to handle higher temps better than most other motors. The one on my T4 survived a bad short and it never skipped a beat. I hear Reedy motors can handle higher temps about as well, though the only one I have experience with is my son's 17.5 which doesn't heat up much, if any.
The motor I've got in it now is a 1st gen Reedy Mach 7.5. I've heard the same thing about the Reedy motors being able to handle higher temps than most other motors.

Originally Posted by BillyT.
It's faster than the turf track at monkey for sure... Even with the 10t at 70 percent, I am pinned for a split second on our banked turn, and that's it.

I prolly won't be able to get out there till after next weekend(after the Sweep race). We start on the build for the new track Saturday morning, and I'll be running till it's done...
Will Monkey be open this weekend? I might sneak by there today while on babysitting duty.
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:31 PM
  #13565  
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yeah. Indoor will be open the whole time we are working outside.
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:56 PM
  #13566  
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Little help here...

can't figure out why I have this probably 1.5-2.0mm gap between the servo horn and the rod end. there are no washers between the servo ears and the block they screw into. i can make it reach, but then it's at an angle and isn't square. this is an orion 1409 servo. am i just screwed with this servo?

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Old 09-12-2013, 07:13 PM
  #13567  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
Little help here...

can't figure out why I have this probably 1.5-2.0mm gap between the servo horn and the rod end. there are no washers between the servo ears and the block they screw into. i can make it reach, but then it's at an angle and isn't square. this is an orion 1409 servo. am i just screwed with this servo?

you can always put a longer screw and some washer there to make it a square angle.
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:15 PM
  #13568  
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yeah, i thought of that and will do it if there isn't some other explanation. i was just looking for a reason why it's like this.
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
yeah, i thought of that and will do it if there isn't some other explanation. i was just looking for a reason why it's like this.
guess you can always add some spacers to make it square. you'll need special servo horn vice versa.

Picture from 2013 reedy race, Jorn also added a lot of spacers for his.
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:31 PM
  #13570  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
Little help here...

can't figure out why I have this probably 1.5-2.0mm gap between the servo horn and the rod end. there are no washers between the servo ears and the block they screw into. i can make it reach, but then it's at an angle and isn't square. this is an orion 1409 servo. am i just screwed with this servo?

I run same servo in my dex. Just use longer screw with spacers and it works just fine. Never have any problems.
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:37 PM
  #13571  
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Any of you guys do hexes on the back?
If so which ones?
Figured I would get a quick answer here vs trying to find the info otherwise.
Thx in Advance..
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:38 PM
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I use a 3mm nut as a spacer. Seems to work fine on the buggy and sc.
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:44 PM
  #13573  
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Originally Posted by morris
Any of you guys do hexes on the back?
If so which ones?
Figured I would get a quick answer here vs trying to find the info otherwise.
Thx in Advance..
Are you talking about aluminum hexes? Cause you pretty much have to run hexes. I run the gold Durango 14mm hexes. I would like to get a set of the Hot Bodie 12mm hexes though so I can run my B4 wheels.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:02 PM
  #13574  
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Originally Posted by morris
Any of you guys do hexes on the back?
If so which ones?
Figured I would get a quick answer here vs trying to find the info otherwise.
Thx in Advance..
I've tried Jconcept's AE B4 front hex, besides the original 6x5x1.5mm spacer, it needs an extra 5x10x0.8mm Shim. still the rear width is a bit narrow.
I guess jconecpt's AE SC10 front hex can get rid of the shim.
also going to try tlr 22's hex.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:08 PM
  #13575  
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Thanks guys. Guess I'll go that route. Seems like a design flaw.
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